Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[gravitylover]

Wow. Why can't I find a local mechanic that knows shit like this. Actually they probably do but they all hate anything Land Rover (even if it's mostly a Ford) and don't want to work on them. I'm starting to understand the exorbitant diagnostic costs though. In this case to disconnect that plug the alternator has to come out then be reinstalled to do that test and then other stuff is also tough to get to and there's a lot of (unnecessary) modules to test.

[fatnslow]

Wow. Why can't I find a local mechanic that knows shit like this. Actually they probably do but they all hate anything Land Rover (even if it's mostly a Ford) and don't want to work on them. I'm starting to understand the exorbitant diagnostic costs though. In this case to disconnect that plug the alternator has to come out then be reinstalled to do that test and then other stuff is also tough to get to and there's a lot of (unnecessary) modules to test.

Techs can't make money working on shit like that. They want to knock out jobs they can beat book rates by 50% , not probing for broken wires with 80% return rate.

[Timberridge]

Cocximus wins the thread this week. Glad you figured it out.

I'm just glad he didn't kill anyone messing around with the phasers.

I'm always left wondering why the average shitbox engine needs VVT. The people buying these cars don't need this aggravation and complexity.

[Touring_Sedan]

I'm always left wondering why the average shitbox engine needs VVT.

Gas mileage?

[MontuckyFried]

I'm just glad he didn't kill anyone messing around with the phasers.

I'm always left wondering why the average shitbox engine needs VVT. The people buying these cars don't need this aggravation and complexity.

I dunno. VVT isn't really all that complex and it helps with mpg and power. Been pretty dialed since the 90s so it isn't exactly some new fangled tekmology. It's better than poorly executed GDI at least.

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[Todd Zander]

If you think vvt is complex check out mazda’s variable compression engines.

[Timberridge]

If you think vvt is complex check out mazda’s variable compression engines.

The tech is really interesting. I have a ND2 Miata and it's got the Skyactiv. My understanding is it's more like a diesel combustion at times, and more like traditional gas spark at others. The Nissan/Infiniti one is even crazier in that it hydraulicly alters the piston stroke I believe.

Anyway we also owned the NA Miata. That had barely 130hp and it felt as quick and nimble as the new one which has 180 hp. All the cars have gotten bigger and heavier, requiring more hp.

[gravitylover]

Techs can't make money working on shit like that. They want to knock out jobs they can beat book rates by 50% , not probing for broken wires with 80% return rate.

And that sux...

[Cocximus]

OCIs and oil quality is what needs to be dialed in. Most issues I read of regarding VVT had to do with oil sludge. Quick lube oil changes, even their "synthetic", is not up to every manufacturer OCI requirements. The gear failing on this elantra had nothing to do with the VVT. That key could have moved even if the gears did not have VVT.

gravitylover you should be able to remove that plug without taking out the alternator. The repair manual says you have to remove the wheel and splash shield, but that's probably if you want to take out the alternator. Actually, it looks like you should be able to stop the alternator by removing the 5A #20 fuse under the hood.

Are you sure the battery is not dropping under 12.5V? Do you have a multi meter with hi/lo function? Even better, you could do a graph to see what voltage the ECU detects with a cheap OBD reader and torque app. I dream about getting a merc R350 wagons, but I read too much into what can go wrong on them. They have three batteries. The two smaller ones can cause electrical gremlins. I was looking if you have aux batteries, so I stumbled over https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uMKDzvuQa8. Interesting how he talks about having his voltage drop below 12.5V. Maybe you could drive around with a battery and connecting it when the gremlins start acting up.

Did you read about resetting the car by disconnecting BOTH battery terminals and touching them together? Maybe do it with a resistor.

Also check for wet carpets. Many cars have modules under the feet and seats.

In case you don't want to deal with AllData download I printed some relevant info for you. https://ufile.io/f/v9be9 The charging system does seem complicated. The car has about 100 fuses. Damn, good luck.

[anotherVTskibum]

Today's plan: sneak out of the office early, get my new suspension (coilovers, UCAs, rear shocks and blocks) installed, maybe throw on the new skid plates while I'm at my employer's shop.

Actual results: get going two hours later than planned, find that they didn't leave the garage door unlocked as they said they would, decide to go for it in the parking lot because it's still better than my driveway (actually paved and level, with fewer mosquitos).

I did have to walk to the parts store for an additional wrench and a 10mm hex key (lesson learned: double check replacement hardware tool needs, not just the OEM parts), but now I have all the tools I need and know how to take apart and reassemble the front suspension.

And I've got one corner done. Hopefully the weather cooperates and I can get the rest (or at least the other front corner) done.

Also, I'm very glad I bought myself a 20V impact wrench. It made a lot of bolts a whole lot easier, although I was a tad disappointedb when I couldn't get it at a useable angle.

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[gravitylover]

@cocximus Thank you. I found that 5A fuse info yesterday and I'll probably try that after I do a full reset. I've had it "asleep" for a few days now and the battery is holding between 12.51<>12.58. Was it dropping below 12.5 when it threw the fit? Yes. I run an Ultragauge and it's always live albeit with up to a 2 second delay and I did see 12.3 at one point. It reads the ECM and ODBII voltages as well as 80+ others so I try to keep the relevant gauges on the screen so I can watch.

After arguing with blocked sunroof drains for a while I e had the thing sealed for a year now. No more wet floors although it wouldn't surprise me if there's corrosion (RUST) from the previous 15 years fucking things up. I know that the Bluetooth module is flukey so I ordered a bypass wire to see if taking that out of the loop helps. The 6 cd player/changer spins but doesn't play or change discs so I'd like to take that out too but can't find a bypass loop.

100 fuses, 120 modules and a bunch of brains and switches...

[AdironRider]

So I have this recurring problem on my jeep where the rear brake calipers are ever so slightly dragging. They aren't seized, but don't fully release. Barely perceptible while driving and only if you are looking for it.

I've replaced them 3x now but the problem clearly is still ongoing. Chews through a set of pads in 10k then I'm replacing everything again. Thoughts on problem? I feel I can safely rule out any problem with the calipers as I just can't believe that replacing them three times over resulted in my luck being that the refurbs I purchase are all exclusively duds.

[MontuckyFried]

So I have this recurring problem on my jeep where the rear brake calipers are ever so slightly dragging. They aren't seized, but don't fully release. Barely perceptible while driving and only if you are looking for it.

I've replaced them 3x now but the problem clearly is still ongoing. Chews through a set of pads in 10k then I'm replacing everything again. Thoughts on problem? I feel I can safely rule out any problem with the calipers as I just can't believe that replacing them three times over resulted in my luck being that the refurbs I purchase are all exclusively duds.

Pins lubed up well I'm sure? Maybe open em up, push the pistons all the way in, then do a full reset on them. I'm sure they're well bled too, right?

I bet Ugly will have some good insight on this tho. Guy knows his way around a brake system.

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[hawkgt]

- check booster vacuum, leak
- drag on parking brake?

[MontuckyFried]

- check booster vacuum, leak
- drag on parking brake?

Good call on the parking brake since he's seeing it on the rears.

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[Cisco Kid]

Bad brake line?
Search in a Jeep forum.

[AdironRider]

Parking brake is a drum system within the rear rotors on a Wrangler, so that isn't it.

Caliper pins lubed and functioning well.

I'll check the booster vacuum and the brake line is interesting, probably not a hard line I would suspect?

[Timberridge]

So I have this recurring problem on my jeep where the rear brake calipers are ever so slightly dragging. They aren't seized, but don't fully release. Barely perceptible while driving and only if you are looking for it.

I've replaced them 3x now but the problem clearly is still ongoing. Chews through a set of pads in 10k then I'm replacing everything again. Thoughts on problem? I feel I can safely rule out any problem with the calipers as I just can't believe that replacing them three times over resulted in my luck being that the refurbs I purchase are all exclusively duds.

If the caliper is not sliding on the pins as mentioned, you need to take them out and grease them 1st. If it's still an issue check that the piston is retracting properly after you press brake. There's a square seal under the piston dust boot that allows the piston to retract slightly, and if that is dried out/dirty etc. it needs to be replaced. Seal kits are cheap. You can Google it to see if you want to do it yourself or pay someone.

[Todd Zander]

You sure the fronts dont have air in the system and your 10k lifespan is a result of the rear being asked to do more work than theyre supposed to?

[anotherVTskibum]

Sigh. When I had the driver's side front of the truck done at 8:30 last night, I probably should have called it then. But I didn't--"the rear blocks look easy enough, and I know the shocks are pretty damn simple'.

Four hours later, I was driving home with the new blocks installed and the old rear shocks reinstalled, because I couldn't get the top bolts out. They spin easily and I was able to get the nuts off no problem, but I couldn't coerce them to move sideways.

Thinking about how I can rig something up to press them out more effectively, since I don't have enough room to get a drift and hammer behind them (photo attached is the driver's side has enough room to swing a medium hammer, which I did with no apparent effect).

Also, I wish more of the install videos on YouTube were shade tree style--no lift, on a rig that's used enough to make everything just a little harder. If they were, I might've not gotten showered in dirt pulling off the first axle/u bolt plate. Turns out that a hard-to-clean fixture that is open to the top but attached to the rear axle collects a lot of dirt.



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[Mazderati]

Wood block against the frame and pry bar against the bolt?

[tuco]

So I have this recurring problem on my jeep where the rear brake calipers are ever so slightly dragging. They aren't seized, but don't fully release. Barely perceptible while driving and only if you are looking for it.

I've replaced them 3x now but the problem clearly is still ongoing. Chews through a set of pads in 10k then I'm replacing everything again. Thoughts on problem? I feel I can safely rule out any problem with the calipers as I just can't believe that replacing them three times over resulted in my luck being that the refurbs I purchase are all exclusively duds.

Proportioning/combo valve issue?

[El Chupacabra]

Wood block against the frame and pry bar against the bolt?

This - pry against the end of the bolt if you can reach it.

And/or: after removing the nut, hammer in thin flathead screwdriver under head of bolt, until the bolt starts to pull away. Repeat, using gradually thicker screwdrivers. Once you can get a pry bar tip under the head of the bolt, place suitable block of wood and pry bolt head out.

[gravitylover]

Sigh. When I had the driver's side front of the truck done at 8:30 last night, I probably should have called it then. But I didn't--"the rear blocks look easy enough, and I know the shocks are pretty damn simple'.

Four hours later, I was driving home with the new blocks installed and the old rear shocks reinstalled, because I couldn't get the top bolts out. They spin easily and I was able to get the nuts off no problem, but I couldn't coerce them to move sideways.

Thinking about how I can rig something up to press them out more effectively, since I don't have enough room to get a drift and hammer behind them (photo attached is the driver's side has enough room to swing a medium hammer, which I did with no apparent effect).

Also, I wish more of the install videos on YouTube were shade tree style--no lift, on a rig that's used enough to make everything just a little harder. If they were, I might've not gotten showered in dirt pulling off the first axle/u bolt plate. Turns out that a hard-to-clean fixture that is open to the top but attached to the rear axle collects a lot of dirt.

After a few minutes of arguing with bolts like this I usually just grab a hacksaw or sawzall and cut the fucker off and put in a new bolt. First I'd try a pry bar against the end and push against it while turning it with a socket in a drill or similar. When it doesn't move the sawzall comes out. In this case, after years of turning/rubbing etc. there's probably a groove and ridge in it so it'll turn but not slide through.

[anotherVTskibum]

After a few minutes of arguing with bolts like this I usually just grab a hacksaw or sawzall and cut the fucker off and put in a new bolt. First I'd try a pry bar against the end and push against it while turning it with a socket in a drill or similar. When it doesn't move the sawzall comes out. In this case, after years of turning/rubbing etc. there's probably a groove and ridge in it so it'll turn but not slide through.

This turned out to be the correct answer. The root cause was the metal sleeve in the shock bushing rust-welding itself to the bolts. On the driver's side, I tried jamming a breaker bar with a deep socket in the nut, which caused the socket to push against the nut as I turned the bolt.

It succeeded in pushing the bolt head towards me, but the bracket deformed to come with it. Even after I cut through the bolt in that gap, I couldn't drive the back of the bolt out the back with a drift and a 4-lb sledge. With the deformed bracket and a little cutting on the back of the bolt, I was able to work the shock free.

On the passenger side, I was in full "screw this, I'm getting it done" mode and went to the angle grinder pretty quickly. I cut through the rubber bushing and bolt inside on both sides of the shock eye, and it came out pretty readily, without any incidental grinder contact on the truck (I had made a few small boo-boos on the other side). The downside is that to get through the bolt at that angle, I got the body of the shock as well...so I probably should have gone to grab the sawzall rather than just using the grinder that was already handy. I was thinking I could be more steady with the grinder, but there's the cut size based on the wheel size issue too. At least I've now made the decision not to try to get the removed shocks rebuilt as backups.

So I've got the full kit installed, and my truck still fits into the carport (mostly), which I wasn't quite sure it would.

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