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  1. #3526
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    3,282
    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    Hmm. Since it apparently shares the turbo setup as the Ford Focus RS/ST (or at least some similarity), perhaps I'll dig a bit deeper. I bet Simple's right tho. Can prolly just drive and enjoy without having to worry too much.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app
    another decent Volvo site
    https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...a8b46b7b723bf1

    Use synthetic oil with 5-7K changes with any turbo. Good reco about keeping your pcv system clean. Many engines were sludged and destroyed with poorly designed/maintained PCV systems and extended oil change recommendations.

  2. #3527
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,894
    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    Austin, these guys should be able to answer any C30 question. https://www.swedespeed.com/forums/c30-2007-2013.101
    Cool. Been meaning to sign up over there!

    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    I think it's an oil cooled turbo. I generally use Castrol oils, after 75k I use the high mileage but when I was commuting and doing 110 hard miles every day I went to the extended life stuff on the C30. Usually I'm a 6-7k oil change guy but with that extended life formula I was able to go out to 12k before the oil analysis showed anything questionable. Change the PCV and clean the oil trap, change the tranny fluid and bleed the clutch, do a brake fluid flush too. If ya really want to have fun change the cabin air filter. You'll love it, ask me why
    Good deal. Thanks for the pro tip! You should get yourself another one of these days. You were right. Highly enjoyable little car.


    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    another decent Volvo site
    https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...a8b46b7b723bf1

    Use synthetic oil with 5-7K changes with any turbo. Good reco about keeping your pcv system clean. Many engines were sludged and destroyed with poorly designed/maintained PCV systems and extended oil change recommendations.
    Got it. Will do the PCV service stat. Good scheduled maintanence item to take care of either way, huh?

    Between Matthews and Swedespeed, which forum do you guys like more? I've found both to have good threads at times but don't know the communities are. Is it basically Epicski vs TGR? Haha

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  3. #3528
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,820
    I almost never use Matthews because the posts are all old and it can take weeks to get an answer if you post something. There is some good info in there though. Swedespeed is pretty good and I've met some good people through there.

  4. #3529
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,894
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    I almost never use Matthews because the posts are all old and it can take weeks to get an answer if you post something. There is some good info in there though. Swedespeed is pretty good and I've met some good people through there.
    Gotcha. Will sign up. Need some vida/dice intel. Loads of experience with it there it seems.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  5. #3530
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,820
    The guy that sells the complete setup (with or without a cheap laptop) has a Fb page too if you want quick answers. Yeah, the C30 is a fun car for sure, I just haven't convinced myself that I want another powerful fwd car. If it had the revo knuckle like the Focus RS had it would be a different story. It was the best fwd car I've ever driven in the snow though, with the right tires (I had Dunlop Winter Sports) it was nearly unstoppable with the spin control off until it high centered.

    Music sounds way better with the back seats folded down. If you need a replacement grill let me know, I still have the original one that I swapped for a mesh one and it's in nearly pristine condition and I also have a pair of rear seat headrests that I had taken out because I got tired of them being in the way when I looked back for parking. I like the Liqui Moly tranny fluid for that Aisin tranny, the Toyota factory fluid is good for it too (Aisin is Toyota).

  6. #3531
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    5,021
    Wait montucky finally bought something? How did I miss this development.
    You need to read up on the motor and figure what the weak links are.
    My MB has ab air to liquid intercooler setup. It shares engine coolant. So, not optimal for hard pull after hard pull. And it only cycles the pump on if it senses you are doin big pulls
    So there are some easy mods to the a2w system including creating a separate source of fluid than the engine coolant, closing some wires to get the pump to always run when the engine runs.
    sigless.

  7. #3532
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
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    5,021
    Speaking of the MB. Rear taillight started acting up, but no error code on the cluster. Quick Google says it's cracked solder joints on the tail light circuit boards. They are sealed, and can't be open to service.
    But, someone figured out where they are, so...
    Bust out the torch and a box cutter. Heat the blade and cut out a piece. Reflow solder on resistors. Repeat on the next spot. Replace plastic cutout pieces and torch and knife again to close it back up.
    No more intermittent talil light.
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    sigless.

  8. #3533
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,282
    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Speaking of the MB. Rear taillight started acting up, but no error code on the cluster. Quick Google says it's cracked solder joints on the tail light circuit boards. They are sealed, and can't be open to service.
    But, someone figured out where they are, so...
    Bust out the torch and a box cutter. Heat the blade and cut out a piece. Reflow solder on resistors. Repeat on the next spot. Replace plastic cutout pieces and torch and knife again to close it back up.
    No more intermittent talil light.
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    How fucking predictable on a MB to have shitty solder joints in their tail.light assembly . Same exact problem as w210 series going back to mid 90's.

  9. #3534
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
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    Yeah, weak sauce... Not impressed.
    Should have used a larger through hole resistor that would dissipate more heat and glue it to the board but... Gotta save pennies wherever possible these days. Gah .
    sigless.

  10. #3535
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
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    5,021
    That said, when I did a shit load of work on a 928, there were cracked solder joints all over the goddamn place.

    Edit, also kind of like bmw wagons making the lift gate harnesses too short in the e34 e39 e61 wagons. In all 3, wire harness chafes against sharp edge. Breaks. Boo hiss ...
    sigless.

  11. #3536
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    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
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    11,894
    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Wait montucky finally bought something? How did I miss this development.
    Yup! Finally! The adventure of scoring this particular car starts around here, but the whole thread was pretty fun:
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...kyFried/page18


    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  12. #3537
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
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    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Speaking of the MB. Rear taillight started acting up, but no error code on the cluster. Quick Google says it's cracked solder joints on the tail light circuit boards. They are sealed, and can't be open to service.
    But, someone figured out where they are, so...
    Bust out the torch and a box cutter. Heat the blade and cut out a piece. Reflow solder on resistors. Repeat on the next spot. Replace plastic cutout pieces and torch and knife again to close it back up.
    No more intermittent talil light.
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    Dang! Nice work! Probably save a TON over using the dealer who would just swap the entire assembly for $$$ and now your solder joints should be even more reliable to boot.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  13. #3538
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    17,757
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    How fucking predictable on a MB to have shitty solder joints in their tail.light assembly . Same exact problem as w210 series going back to mid 90's.
    It goes like this. Mercedes engineer calls Valeo for a new taillight assembly. Needs it to last 4 yrs or 50,000 mi. Valeo has one that lasts 4.25 yrs and 51,000 mi. Done. Valeo then makes extra taillights for aftermarket.

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    It's like you guys don't understand the car business.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  14. #3539
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,820
    ^^ Yup

    So this silly sensor problem is a big pain in the ass. When the part number changed so did the plug, the new one is 3 pin and they don't match up with the holes on the old 6 pin plug so - No good Of course since I couldn't get it out laying on my back in the driveway I went to my favorite local shop to put it on the lift and spent $50 to find out it was no good. The upside is I found out how to reach it better for next time Yes, I have found the right part but it will cost a mint to get it here from the UK so that's pretty much the last straw for me and this stupid air suspension bullshit so now the mission is to find the right coil conversion kit. Most of what I'm finding gives a 1.5-2" lift and I really have no need for that (I don't think I'd trust the thing enough to go very far from an easy tow) so I'm on the hunt for an adjustable height coilover kit.

  15. #3540
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
    Posts
    7,946
    Buttoned up the 4Runner rear wheel bearing project today. Hardest part is definitely getting the new ebrake pads on. Once you figure out how to do it...still takes a while and some good luck to wrestle them into place. Ended up replacing both rusty with cracked rubber calipers with reman galvanized so they look nice. 3.2 quarts of valvoline synthetic GL5 and new crush washers for the diff. Old diff oil looked really good, magnet on lower drain plug had minimal metal.

    Pretty time consuming job. $850 for the machine shop labor and all the parts not including the seal driver kit and a nice needle nose plier I bought to deal with the ebrakes.

    I wish I had an extra seal to practice on. Definitely did a better job driving the second axle seal into place.

    I couldn't get the abs sensor hold down studs out of the old wheel bearing housings despite days of soaking and heat and the two nut extraction method so I bought some class 10 m6×12 bolts bathed in anti sieze to use in the new bearings instead. Easy peasy.

    I can hear wind noise on the highway again so ftw so far.

    This was a nice writeup I referenced along with an FJ cruiser rear wheel bearing video and a printed pdf of those god forsaken e brakes.

    https://www.toyota-4runner.org/maint...aring-diy.html
    Last edited by uglymoney; 05-08-2022 at 08:36 PM.

  16. #3541
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,820
    Just to continue the saga... Age is doin' it's thing again, now the right rear brake caliper is sticky and makes really cool wispy smoke after a few minutes of driving I'm not surprised because the left rear went a year ago. Good thing calipers are cheap ($100) and are fairly easy to change. What's next? lol

  17. #3542
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,173
    Quote Originally Posted by uglymoney View Post
    Buttoned up the 4Runner rear wheel bearing project today. Hardest part is definitely getting the new ebrake pads on. Once you figure out how to do it...still takes a while and some good luck to wrestle them into place. Ended up replacing both rusty with cracked rubber calipers with reman galvanized so they look nice. 3.2 quarts of valvoline synthetic GL5 and new crush washers for the diff. Old diff oil looked really good, magnet on lower drain plug had minimal metal.

    Pretty time consuming job. $850 for the machine shop labor and all the parts not including the seal driver kit and a nice needle nose plier I bought to deal with the ebrakes.

    I wish I had an extra seal to practice on. Definitely did a better job driving the second axle seal into place.

    I couldn't get the abs sensor hold down studs out of the old wheel bearing housings despite days of soaking and heat and the two nut extraction method so I bought some class 10 m6×12 bolts bathed in anti sieze to use in the new bearings instead. Easy peasy.

    I can hear wind noise on the highway again so ftw so far.

    This was a nice writeup I referenced along with an FJ cruiser rear wheel bearing video and a printed pdf of those god forsaken e brakes.

    https://www.toyota-4runner.org/maint...aring-diy.html
    Good job tackling that project. Drum-in-hat e-brakes are a PITA.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  18. #3543
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    454
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    As much as I like glass lenses on lights, having them this low might be a continual problem.

  19. #3544
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,009
    Took a wee bit longer than expected but it was overdue. Just the rancho quicklift(1.75) up front, 1” coming for the back.
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  20. #3545
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    17,982
    Went for a walk in a new neighborhood and found this place. This guy may have a problem.







    Also found a basement house down the street.


  21. #3546
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    2,287
    I don't see a problem except for lack of midget nazis.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

  22. #3547
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    2,100
    I like the fox body being used as covered storage

  23. #3548
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,173
    Is the mobility scooter the only running vehicle?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  24. #3549
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,820
    New caliper is in, it took two tries to get it bled right but it's working great now. Lubed that height sensor again and all seems to be well. Headin' out for another 900 mile road trip in the morning

    Next is replacing the AC condenser and compressor before summer actually gets here. Can I drain the system myself with easy to obtain tools? There isn't a shop around that will do it without hooking up to their machine and refilling it the same day it's drained for a minimum of $150.

  25. #3550
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Is the mobility scooter the only running vehicle?
    The truck looks like it might run. I kinda want it.

    Quote Originally Posted by lifelinksplit View Post
    I don't see a problem except for lack of midget nazis.
    Without that thread I would have had no idea what I was looking at it. I had my son with me and only wish I could have properly explained to him why I was so excited and amused to find one of these in the wild.

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