Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[Falcon3]

I’ve had really great luck with the coated Raybestos, get them on RockAuto for cheap.

Definitely worth going full e-coat, the lack of rust is awesome.

[gravitylover]

^^ I'm leaning that way.

If it's for the Rover, I've had bad luck with anything other than OEM or OEM spec replacements. The JLR ABS system is finicky as fuck.

Well yeah, OEM Spec but the price on the LR ones is insane. It has Brembo 4 pots and I got a good deal on Brembo pads so I could do the Brembo rotors, they're really not expensive compared to most but some of the Brit guys whine about them being more prone to squeal. There's also a Raybestos industrial line that kinda sounds like a good idea on a 6k pound brick, they are a bit heavier though so that might fuck with the finicky shit you mentioned.

[Touring_Sedan]

Well yeah, OEM Spec but the price on the LR ones is insane. It has Brembo 4 pots and I got a good deal on Brembo pads so I could do the Brembo rotors, they're really not expensive compared to most but some of the Brit guys whine about them being more prone to squeal. There's also a Raybestos industrial line that kinda sounds like a good idea on a 6k pound brick, they are a bit heavier though so that might fuck with the finicky shit you mentioned.

I'd just try and keep it to as close as you can get to what it left the factory with. I've had to toss rotors after 1K miles because they were throwing SLABS codes like crazy.

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[unitofstuff]

Re: Brake Rotors - Centric, Powerstop or Raybestos?

I don't trust Powerstop's QC after I had one of their reman calipers blow a piston seal after three weeks in a hard emergency braking situation. Their customer service was zero help either. The rotors and pads seemed cheap but fine.

Other than that one set of Powerstop brakes, I've put Centric Premium blanks on everything for the past ten years or so without an issue. Pads have either been whatever Centric pads are bundled with the rotors for normal/slow cars or Hawk pads for faster cars.

[Skidog]

I don't trust Powerstop's QC after I had one of their reman calipers blow a piston seal after three weeks in a hard emergency braking situation. Their customer service was zero help either. The rotors and pads seemed cheap but fine.

Other than that one set of Powerstop brakes, I've put Centric Premium blanks on everything for the past ten years or so without an issue. Pads have either been whatever Centric pads are bundled with the rotors for normal/slow cars or Hawk pads for faster cars.

Pppft you all don't know how to brake...

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[unitofstuff]

Pppft you all don't know how to brake...

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I just alternate pushing the gas to the floor and pushing the brake to the floor. Really they're just weirdly long on/off switches right?



I got this hood clamp light plus a 3/8" impact ratchet the other day. I think they'll come in handy.

[Aldo]

Those lights are such a helpful tool. God I think of the drop lights I used to use, what an improvement from there.

In my day to day in shop the most useful thing I own is a small powerful flashlight, I call it the income stream. It’s funny I find my self shining it on shit in broad daylight I’m so addicted…


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[gravitylover]

I don't trust Powerstop's QC after I had one of their reman calipers blow a piston seal after three weeks in a hard emergency braking situation. Their customer service was zero help either. The rotors and pads seemed cheap but fine.

Other than that one set of Powerstop brakes, I've put Centric Premium blanks on everything for the past ten years or so without an issue. Pads have either been whatever Centric pads are bundled with the rotors for normal/slow cars or Hawk pads for faster cars.

Heh, after a few hours of stupidity I went for the Brembo rotors. I found them on the Rock Auto closeout list for $12 more than the Centric Premiums. I think these are 14" rotors and when I took one out of the box the first thing that struck me was I've had wheels smaller and lighter than these rotors. I was thinking of the 12" alloys that were on my 82 Civic, those things were like 13 pounds! Something about that Powerstop stuff just screams cheezy to me, their ads are slick, the prices are surprisingly low on a lot of their stuff and they were never a thing before the rise of Amazon and Ebay auto parts and the new school home mechanic.

[warthog]

That light looks awesome. Is that Milwaukee? I will have to check that out. I prefer my nice Petzl headlamp in many situations, But having a light sabre strapped to the hood would help a lot too.

Got to pull a trick out of the archives today on the Bronco. I was at the gas station, ran in for something (thankfully not parked at the pump), and came back to absolutely NO noise at start. Battery good, everything normal. I was pretty close to home, so I walked home to get some tools and come back with my other regular vehicle. Got back about 20 min. later and it fired right up. Drove it straight home and got a ride back to pick up the other vehicle. Started fine over and over. Then this morning I pushed the envelope and went out to the dump and a couple other errands. Once again came back to nothing. Opened the hood and bridged the solenoid nuts- it tried to turn over. Then I remembered that I needed to have the key in RUN. Fired right up once I bridged the nuts again. I had only read about that trick.

Went straight to Napa, left it running, and bought a solenoid.

[gravitylover]

Why does everyone tell me not too rebuild and fix shit just replace with new. Why... Some stuff is supposed to be maintained. Right?

[MakersTeleMark]

Was doing some wheeling the other day. As soon as I hit pavement and got up to speed a van lifer was right up my ass. All of the sudden my horn goes off. Non stop as I am waving the guy to pass. Must have been a short in the steering column. Pulled over and used a box cutter to cut the positive lead through the grill then took my merry time home.

[anotherVTskibum]

That light looks awesome. Is that Milwaukee? I will have to check that out. I prefer my nice Petzl headlamp in many situations, But having a light sabre strapped to the hood would help a lot too.

Got to pull a trick out of the archives today on the Bronco. I was at the gas station, ran in for something (thankfully not parked at the pump), and came back to absolutely NO noise at start. Battery good, everything normal. I was pretty close to home, so I walked home to get some tools and come back with my other regular vehicle. Got back about 20 min. later and it fired right up. Drove it straight home and got a ride back to pick up the other vehicle. Started fine over and over. Then this morning I pushed the envelope and went out to the dump and a couple other errands. Once again came back to nothing. Opened the hood and bridged the solenoid nuts- it tried to turn over. Then I remembered that I needed to have the key in RUN. Fired right up once I bridged the nuts again. I had only read about that trick.

Went straight to Napa, left it running, and bought a solenoid.

Just remember that if you're bridging solenoid terminals, you want to be very careful how you do so. A screwdriver works, but a plastic handle is recommended and I'd strongly endorse not accidentally grounding the screwdriver while still on the hot terminal.

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[unitofstuff]

That light looks awesome. Is that Milwaukee? I will have to check that out. I prefer my nice Petzl headlamp in many situations, But having a light sabre strapped to the hood would help a lot too.

Milwaukee M12, up until now all my stuff has used the M18 batteries but I picked up the M12 ratchet so not having the right battery wasn't really a barrier anymore. I've always been fighting with cheap little lights and trying to wedge or hang them in weird places, so I think this will be a welcome change.



Took the big pig up Forest Lake trail on Wednesday. It's way, way chunkier than the only other time I ran it in about 2016. Sliders definitely got some work and finally christened the rear bumper.

[warthog]

Just remember that if you're bridging solenoid terminals, you want to be very careful how you do so. A screwdriver works, but a plastic handle is recommended and I'd strongly endorse not accidentally grounding the screwdriver while still on the hot terminal.

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I actually used a small plastic handled round file that was in the truck. I remembered to use a well insulated tool. I was actually a bit worried it wasn't enough, since the file and handle were so small, but it worked out.

I replaced it yesterday, so it shouldn't be much of an issue again. At this point though, NOT hearing any noise when I turn the key will not give me a heart attack. Easy fix. Still hope I fixed it for good though.

[Jethro]

Why does everyone tell me not too rebuild and fix shit just replace with new. Why... Some stuff is supposed to be maintained. Right?

No shit. I priced rebuilt denso starters for my 4Runner at over $200. The selenoid rebuild kit I used was like $5-10 bucks. It has worked fine ever since. About 10 years

[lifelinksplit]

My early bronco had a flathead screwdriver for a "key" for a little while. Just got done throwing on a dobinsons extended travel kit on the wifes 4runner. New remote resi coilovers/rear shocks and new heavier rear coils. Had to use the old ratchet straps trick to compress coils and bottle jack between frame and axle to max drop. Other than a few hiccups went pretty smooth.

Also nice to use buddies shop who grows for a living.


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[Touring_Sedan]

What's your experience with this jizz? Obviously I'm not expecting a cure-all, just hoping that it can point me in the right direction before I take it in to the shop.

[Cocximus]

Raybestos element 3 are great replacements for shitty(outback) or mediocre(elantra) factory brakes. The element 3 pads are GG friction coefficient which is higher than FF coeficient on many cars.

[fatnslow]

What's your experience with this jizz? Obviously I'm not expecting a cure-all, just hoping that it can point me in the right direction before I take it in to the shop.

Best to start with a set of manifold gauges top see what kind of pressures you currently have, some O'reilly's have them to borrow. If you don't have enough pressure your compressor won't circulate anything. IF that has any type of sealer don't put that in your system, if you show up with a car that's been filled with sealer they won't be happy.

[Touring_Sedan]

Best to start with a set of manifold gauges top see what kind of pressures you currently have, some O'reilly's have them to borrow. If you don't have enough pressure your compressor won't circulate anything. IF that has any type of sealer don't put that in your system, if you show up with a car that's been filled with sealer they won't be happy.

Yeah, it's just dye. No sealant. It still has a charge, the compressor runs as expected, but it isn't as cold as it was last year. I'll probably pick up a charge in a can, just to keep it topped of and oiled. I'd hate to have to replace the whole system if I lose all the pressure.

[fatnslow]

Yeah, it's just dye. No sealant. It still has a charge, the compressor runs as expected, but it isn't as cold as it was last year. I'll probably pick up a charge in a can, just to keep it topped of and oiled. I'd hate to have to replace the whole system if I lose all the pressure.

Take a close look at your connections at the condenser, Schrader valves and high/low pressure line crimps. Idk how old your car is but if it's over 10 years old it can be a small leak in quite a few areas. Having a set of gauges will tell you how low you are and just top off and move on till next year.
You general my don't have to replace the whole system if you develope a leak. Just fix the leak, vacuum the system then recharge especially an older car.
Another thing to consider is having your system vacuumed out and recharged with the correct amount. You can usually fine someone that will do it for under a $100 since r134-a is actually pretty cheap. Some newer systems can be very picky about the correct amount(too much can be just as bas as not enough).
They have hi/lo/ambient temp pressure reference charts that are compressor type specific for ball parking.

[dannynoonan]

What's your experience with this jizz? Obviously I'm not expecting a cure-all, just hoping that it can point me in the right direction before I take it in to the shop.

So, I grabbed a can of this and a uv light, ran the a/c for a couple days and shone the uv in there. The entire fucking engine bay lit up green. FML. I think there was a leak near the fan and it just sprayed that shit all over the place, certainly did not help narrow things down. Maybe it was the condenser, that would explain the result.

[Obstruction]

So, I grabbed a can of this and a uv light, ran the a/c for a couple days and shone the uv in there. The entire fucking engine bay lit up green. FML. I think there was a leak near the fan and it just sprayed that shit all over the place, certainly did not help narrow things down. Maybe it was the condenser, that would explain the result.

Your next move in avoiding getting boned by the dealer/repair shop is to buy a sniffer. It’s worth a shot. I’ve been chasing a refrigerant leak in my kids Prius for a year or so (not very aggressively). The sniffer indicated a bad high pressure schrader valve. I swapped it and filled the system with non-PAG r134. We’ll see ....

[Touring_Sedan]

So, I grabbed a can of this and a uv light, ran the a/c for a couple days and shone the uv in there. The entire fucking engine bay lit up green. FML. I think there was a leak near the fan and it just sprayed that shit all over the place, certainly did not help narrow things down. Maybe it was the condenser, that would explain the result.

HA! That's exactly my fear. Brown Santa drops of the UV light on Thursday. Plenty of time for the this shit to spread everywhere.

[warthog]

Anyone ever replaced an ignition key lock cylinder?
Want step by step pics?
I have to dive into this soon. The wandering random attempts to get the wheel to lock are pissing me off.
I am told it is a simple job.
Everything, so far (No Whammies) has been relatively simple with the Bronco, so I am hopeful.