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  1. #1601
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driving past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    2,920
    Aftermarket Cats that don’t suck? Is there such a thing?

    So my daughter’s 07 Outback needs a new Catalytic Converter. P0420 code with wonky voltage in both up and down stream sensors. Verified with a top notch Subaru inde. Dealers wants stupid money for the part - $1400. So I’m shopping for a decent after market product. I know after market cats have shitty rep but even if I have to warranty one and pay to have it installed twice it’s still way cheaper than the dealer route.

    So the question is does anyone have any experience/opinions to share on aftermarket cats particularly for Subie aftermarket cats.

    Oh and I’m sending this job out. First I’m not real keen on exhaust work but definitely not in the driveway in December. Second I’m willing to bet the manifold studs on this old beater are going to be a serious whore to deal with and Call me a bitch but I’m not willing to take a chance on screwing up the heads.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  2. #1602
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driving past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    2,920
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    That's a good point I wouldn't have thought about. Sounds like Raybestos or Centric from Rock Auto ought to do it. Anyone have any experience with Callahan reman calipers? Those look to be the popular ones in the kits on Amazon like this

    I'm going to pick up one of those power bleeder things because I don't expect to have anyone around to help, the garage I have access to is in my FIL's empty home in a mostly senior development. I thought bleeding sequence is farthest to closest, I've been told to start with right rear.
    I’ve had good luck with Raybestos products on my Subies.

    I’ve done a bunch of brake jobs using the one man bleed method Todd described. You can also gravity bleed. It works fine just requires patience.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  3. #1603
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    4,578
    Need help soon! 2001 legacy. Small hose end was disconnected from something, but I’m not sure what. See photo below. I think I knocked it loose while retrieving a wrench that fell deep into the engine (wrench slipped while changing battery in the rain).
    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #1604
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    4,578
    Lol

    I washed my hands, took a dump, took another look... it carries washer fluid. Ha!

  5. #1605
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
    Posts
    6,017
    No help on what kind of cat to get but I bet the manifold studs will come out with no problems at all.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  6. #1606
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    767
    Quote Originally Posted by Obstruction View Post
    Aftermarket Cats that don’t suck? Is there such a thing?

    So my daughter’s 07 Outback needs a new Catalytic Converter. P0420 code with wonky voltage in both up and down stream sensors. Verified with a top notch Subaru inde. Dealers wants stupid money for the part - $1400. So I’m shopping for a decent after market product. I know after market cats have shitty rep but even if I have to warranty one and pay to have it installed twice it’s still way cheaper than the dealer route.

    So the question is does anyone have any experience/opinions to share on aftermarket cats particularly for Subie aftermarket cats.

    Oh and I’m sending this job out. First I’m not real keen on exhaust work but definitely not in the driveway in December. Second I’m willing to bet the manifold studs on this old beater are going to be a serious whore to deal with and Call me a bitch but I’m not willing to take a chance on screwing up the heads.
    have you considered a drilled out spark plug non-fouler for $7.99?

  7. #1607
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,442
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Zander View Post
    have you considered a drilled out spark plug non-fouler for $7.99?
    I would 2nd this before trying a new cat. I think they have other plug and play solutions to address the po420.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzm52m0AWSQ

  8. #1608
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    I smell poutine!!!
    Posts
    9,381
    Quote Originally Posted by powdrhound View Post
    Damn. Cracked manifold in the SkiBumMobile.
    Very effective at screwing up tomorrow’s ski day.
    Attachment 305203Attachment 305217
    Not like the crack that you put in a pipe
    But crack on your forehead here's a towel now wipe

  9. #1609
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    767
    and start spraying the rear sensor with pb blaster now, try cracking it loose when its hot.

  10. #1610
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    99
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    That's a good point I wouldn't have thought about. Sounds like Raybestos or Centric from Rock Auto ought to do it. Anyone have any experience with Callahan reman calipers? Those look to be the popular ones in the kits on Amazon like this Attachment 305838

    I'm going to pick up one of those power bleeder things because I don't expect to have anyone around to help, the garage I have access to is in my FIL's empty home in a mostly senior development. I thought bleeding sequence is farthest to closest, I've been told to start with right rear.
    My bad. You do start at the furthest bleed screw, then work next furthest and so on to the last, closest. Brain fart!

  11. #1611
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    16,234
    Quote Originally Posted by L82thegate View Post
    My bad. You do start at the furthest bleed screw, then work next furthest and so on to the last, closest. Brain fart!
    Actually, Google it for your specific vehicle. Sometimes that's not the right order for bleeding - depends on the way the master cylinder is designed.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  12. #1612
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
    Posts
    6,017
    My 02 Subaru and 03 4R are diagonal. You have to bleed the front brake opposite side if you need to bleed a back brake, or vice versa. I never worry about what order. If you change a caliper and don't bleed the diagonal brake you'll have air and a soft pedal. It will probably still be fine to drive and have brakes but with a soft pedal.

    So basically if I am doing both rear brake calipers I ignore the guru voodoo stuff and just bleed all 4 corners twice once I get it bolted back together and I have a nice firm pedal. Ymmv.

    Also...if you can't break the old bleeders loose on the front calipers using all the tricks order new ones because you probably need them anyway and drive it carefully till they arrive.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  13. #1613
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    7,277
    Dumb question. I’m having weird transmission issues in the fj80 so I need to check the tranny fluid. I let the truck warm up to operating temperature, drove it around for two miles, parked on a flat surface, cycled through all the gears, put it in neutral and checked the dipstick while the engine was running. Results were in the “cold” spectrum of the stick but this is how I have always done it on other vehicles. Am I low on fluid or did I do something wrong?
    "All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never, ever be boring."

  14. #1614
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Meiss Meadows
    Posts
    1,313
    Yesterday, replacing worn-out motor mounts on my granddaughters Mazda 6, required 15mm and 18mm wrenches. No Metric vehicle in my experience ever used a 15 or a 18, so those combo wrenches are not in my tool roll...
    A couple of bolts couldn’t be loosened without taking out more parts than should have been needed. Damn!

  15. #1615
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
    Posts
    6,017
    18's becoming common...like with Moog aftermarket stuff. Kinda weird I agree but I have a rarely used 18.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  16. #1616
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    6,933
    Quote Originally Posted by uglymoney View Post
    My 02 Subaru and 03 4R are diagonal. You have to bleed the front brake opposite side if you need to bleed a back brake, or vice versa. I never worry about what order. If you change a caliper and don't bleed the diagonal brake you'll have air and a soft pedal. It will probably still be fine to drive and have brakes but with a soft pedal.

    So basically if I am doing both rear brake calipers I ignore the guru voodoo stuff and just bleed all 4 corners twice once I get it bolted back together and I have a nice firm pedal. Ymmv.

    Also...if you can't break the old bleeders loose on the front calipers using all the tricks order new ones because you probably need them anyway and drive it carefully till they arrive.
    The kit I'm going to order has all 4 calipers so rusted bleed screws won't be a problem. The current ones are probably ok other than needing some new seals but because they've been sitting for so long I'd rather just put in reman's and know that they work as well as they're supposed to. It's the wife's car and she won't want to deal with wonky. I'll probably rebuild the old ones later just to learn how to do it, the rebuild kits are cheap.

    Re: bleed pattern - So start with rear passenger to front driver and then rear driver to front passenger? Since I'm replacing everything it looks like it really is just remove the old pieces and bolt the new stuff in then bleed. I feel like this description make it sound too easy. Should i get the new small hardware bits too knowing that I'm ham fisted and have a history of breaking existing stuff or is it pretty robust and hard to screw up?

  17. #1617
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driving past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    2,920
    4 wheel disk and caliper swap doesn’t involve a lot if any small bits on that generation outback. Caliper bracket bolts, slide pin bolts on the Caliper itself, knock the rotor off and detach the brake line. Only potential hazard is the abs monitor that goes into the hub. Careful not to destroy that. You’re dust shields may be shot too but I’ve always opted to cut the rust away with some tin snips rather than screw with them.

    Also suggest testing (loosening) caliper bleed screws on the bench before setting the calipers in place and attaching the lines. Some of the can be a real bitch,

    You might want 13 mm and 10mm line wrenches (I think check the sizes). They come in pretty handy where the flex line meets the junction box.

    I’d suggest a full brake fluid flush if you’re doing all that break work. Basically it means that you’ll be draining brake fluid until it’s clean and new looking rather than just free of bubbles.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  18. #1618
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
    Posts
    6,017
    Solid. I think you have this. Just have at it and deal with any rust belt issues as they come up. Don't waste time thinking about the bleed order.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  19. #1619
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    7,277
    So my trans on the fj80 was two quarts low. Odd, considering the trans got serviced 4K ago. No leaks, either. Thoughts?
    "All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never, ever be boring."

  20. #1620
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Salt Lake City
    Posts
    434
    Quote Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater View Post
    So my trans on the fj80 was two quarts low. Odd, considering the trans got serviced 4K ago. No leaks, either. Thoughts?
    When it was serviced maybe they didn't fully fill it. Have you driven it for a long period of time/after being under load and checked the level when truly hot? The method you described above sounds correct, but maybe the transmission just wasn't hot even tho the engine was.

  21. #1621
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    907
    Posts
    10,939
    Quote Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater View Post
    Thoughts?
    Service your own transmission next time?

  22. #1622
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,173
    I recently swapped the transmission fluid in my highlander. 2 miles was nowhere near long enough to get the transmission up to speed. A 20-30 minutes was more like it, but the temps were around freezing.

  23. #1623
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    469
    I removed the cat's out of a lexus and put fake sensors in that went nowhere but gave ecu a good reading.

    To be young and stupid again. I sawzalled them out in lieu of pulling the engine.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  24. #1624
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    7,277
    Quote Originally Posted by The Tortoise View Post
    I recently swapped the transmission fluid in my highlander. 2 miles was nowhere near long enough to get the transmission up to speed. A 20-30 minutes was more like it, but the temps were around freezing.
    Yeah, so doing it again last night and I drive for 20 minutes. That still yielded 2 quarts low.

  25. #1625
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    In the shadow of the wasatch
    Posts
    3,231
    Second goddamned alternator in 2 weeks. Tundra no where as easy as the Merc. But goter dun. Shop quote was stupid. 7 hours and remove radiator? Bitch 2 hours and come at it from the wheel well loosen power steering pump and booyah almost drops out the bottom. Santa need that money. Glad I got long arms. Job interview today with grease underfingernail. Oh to the Joy'z of maintaining high mileage autosClick image for larger version. 

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    Bunny Don't Surf

    Have you seen a one armed man around here?

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