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  1. #2426
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,858
    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    I know the coils will go out on these. I知 not sure how old most of them are. I have replaced 2 other old coils in the past 30k miles.
    Usually when one goes out, the rest are soon to follow. On my Volvo, they were too spendy for me to replace all at once so I'd do 'em one at a time until the next one went out. Bad idle, "X cylinder misfire," replace coil, lather rinse repeat until eventually all 6 were replaced. No more misfires. Haha. They all went out within a few months of each other. Been good for the last 50K or so, though.

  2. #2427
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,007
    Move the suspected bad coil to another cylinder and see if the problem follows

  3. #2428
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,963
    Thx all.

    The new coil that I put in yesterday was OEM denso. The 8 spark plugs with less than 10k miles are OEM.

    The trucks been regularly run (usually on chevron gas).

    Of course, this shit crops up right when I need it for the annual spring hauling season to prep for fire season.

  4. #2429
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    4,996
    Always. When the heart transplant was done, what was retained from the original cruiser? Maf sensor? Ecu? What else? Engine harness? If the original engine harness was retained, the plastic plugs can become brittle and break, and the contacts can have wear on them due to age. Example, we recently got a check engine light on our 100 series cruiser with 250k on it. I pulled the maf sensor harness plug off and (and mastic crumbled) put it back on the sensor, problem solved.

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  5. #2430
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    4,996
    Quote Originally Posted by unitofstuff View Post
    Just booked a uhaul trailer for a couple weekends from now. Gonna haul my 525iT to a friend's garage, throw the new-to-me ZF5 in, change some fluids, and haul the turd back. Hopefully in May some of you SLC types might see a dingy white E34 wagon on MPars mobbing around my hipster-lookin ass in it.
    Pics please. I love e34. One of the absolute best cars ever made in my humble opinion. Pinnacle of BMW for me. It's been downhill ever since.

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  6. #2431
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,766
    Brittle plastics are more and more of a problem on cars more than about 10 years old. The materials they used just aren't standing up to the test of time. I ruin plugs and trim pieces way too often...

  7. #2432
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,858
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Brittle plastics are more and more of a problem on cars more than about 10 years old. The materials they used just aren't standing up to the test of time. I ruin plugs and trim pieces way too often...
    As the owner of a geriatric German car, can confirm. Gotta love when you go to do a simple job and the electrical bits just disintegrate into a fine, black powder. FML...

  8. #2433
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,737
    Anybody using a portable lift?
    I am taking a hard look at this system.
    https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/...SAAEgIMLvD_BwE


  9. #2434
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driven way past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    3,068
    I vaguely remember Mazderati posting about the maybe in this thread early on.

    I致e been thinking about getting som for a while but haven稚 pulled the trigger.

    Make sure you price the around though. There are lower price deals around. At Home Depot of all places For instance:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  10. #2435
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    4,618
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Brittle plastics are more and more of a problem on cars more than about 10 years old. The materials they used just aren't standing up to the test of time. I ruin plugs and trim pieces way too often...
    Yeah. Whenever I used to go under the hood of my 97 f250 I'd always wind up "fixing" a few other things before I was done.

  11. #2436
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    454
    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Pics please. I love e34. One of the absolute best cars ever made in my humble opinion. Pinnacle of BMW for me. It's been downhill ever since.

    sent from Utah.
    I'll snap a picture when I roll out on Friday. It's a white '92 525iT that's about a ten footer with paint/body. Interior needs a good cleaning and the headliner is pulling away in some places, but not terrible.. I've got about half a turbo setup for it stashed in the garage, but I'm gonna get it running and driving and reliable before I think about opening that can of worms. It was also originally an auto car so it still has the 4.10s. Should be gearing limited to roughly 110 but I bet it's fun anywhere below that.

    Quote Originally Posted by warthog View Post
    Anybody using a portable lift?
    I am taking a hard look at this system.
    https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/...SAAEgIMLvD_BwE

    I have (am semi-permanently borrowing from my dad) a 5000lb version. They work well, but definitely pay attention to how long they are to see which ones are appropriate for the cars or trucks you have. They kill access from the sides, but if you have a creeper it's not too bad. They're also heavy to move and take up a bit of space, whether you lay them down along a wall or hang them up vertically. I like them WAY more than jackstands.

  12. #2437
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    9,171
    Quote Originally Posted by unitofstuff View Post
    I'll snap a picture when I roll out on Friday. It's a white '92 525iT that's about a ten footer with paint/body. Interior needs a good cleaning and the headliner is pulling away in some places, but not terrible.. I've got about half a turbo setup for it stashed in the garage, but I'm gonna get it running and driving and reliable before I think about opening that can of worms. It was also originally an auto car so it still has the 4.10s. Should be gearing limited to roughly 110 but I bet it's fun anywhere below that.



    I have (am semi-permanently borrowing from my dad) a 5000lb version. They work well, but definitely pay attention to how long they are to see which ones are appropriate for the cars or trucks you have. They kill access from the sides, but if you have a creeper it's not too bad. They're also heavy to move and take up a bit of space, whether you lay them down along a wall or hang them up vertically. I like them WAY more than jackstands.
    That is very tempting.

  13. #2438
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    10,467
    Yeah, I ended up buying the 7000SLX. It's good with some shortcomings. Would probably buy again if I didn't have access to a two or four post lift.

    1. The 7000SLX was the biggest model offered at the time. It is barely long enough to accommodate an Acura RL on the factory rocker panel pinch weld lift points. Maybe the RL has especially wide lift points but it's not a giant car. Think Accord sized at 120%.
    2. The rubber lift blocks, especially the pinch weld blocks, are a great idea but are significantly smaller than the jack area in which they sit. The area the lift blocks sit might measure 14"Lx8"Wx1"H (guessing without looking) but the lift blocks themselves might only be 4"Lx3"Wx1.5"H. That means the lift needs to be positioned plus the lift blocks need to be positioned. Bigger lift blocks that fill the entirety of the area they sit would be more stable and mean less setup. Also, if the lift block is only 1.5"H, the weight of the vehicle may compress the lift block enough to where the car is sitting on the frame of the jack.
    3. Setup can take a while. If lifting the same cars in the same location, find the ideal setup and mark the floor with the tire and jack locations so you're not starting from scratch every time.
    4. Not a fan of the truck adapters. I'm sure there are thousands with no issues but there is nothing that secures them to the jack or the car and they are not confidence inspiring.
    5. Flat surface required. Flat and smooth is best.

  14. #2439
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    17,889
    I don't even know where to begin: https://cars.ksl.com/listing/6959918

  15. #2440
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    350
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    I don't even know where to begin: https://cars.ksl.com/listing/6959918
    ...hook up the engine, evict the spiders, get the dash out of the trunk...

  16. #2441
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    2,620
    Well I'm currently sitting down drinking a beer and thanking my lucky stars that I just learned a free lesson that could have been a very very costly one.

    Tldr: Set ebrake and chock wheels whenever using a jack. And lockout tagout exists for a reason. And dont be a dumbass.

    Long version: Wife's Toyota Matrix was making a very quiet squeak when turning. I pulled the pads and saw that it was basically metal on metal. She was interested in learning to change pads and rotors so we went through one side together a couple days later. That ended up taking long enough that we called it a night with one side done. I told her not to drive it but didn't leave a note on the steering wheel so the next day she took it to go get her second covid vaccine. Not entirely her fault since I walked by while it was gone and didn't think anything of it.

    She just started the second side this evening and after a couple problems I ended up finishing the install. I zipped the lugnuts on with an impact and then began using a breaker bar for the final snug up. On the first lugnut the car slowly rolled back off the jack and onto the jack stand. After a brief heart attack while I wondered why the car was moving everything stopped and I was able to remove the jack, get the car lifted back up, jack stand removed and the car lowered onto all 4 wheels.

    Things we did right: Use jack stands

    Things we did wrong: Everything else.

    Next time: Chock wheels everytime. 1 side was done with the e brake and no chocks. Either finish the job in one day or leave several VERY obvious Do Not Drive notes. And check the fucking e brake.

  17. #2442
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,007
    Lockout tagout also requires you to identify hazards.

    Only identify the mechanical hazards, leave the human ones out of it.

  18. #2443
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    2,620
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Zander View Post
    Lockout tagout also requires you to identify hazards.

    Only identify the mechanical hazards, leave the human ones out of it.
    Yeah. It probably wouldnt really matter but I didn't want her driving around with 1 brand new rotor and one old one. And i think i was treating the whole scenario as if it hadn't been driven so no double check on the e brake. Otherwise skipping the chock was the big mistake.

  19. #2444
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    9,171
    Quote Originally Posted by John_B View Post
    Well I'm currently sitting down drinking a beer and thanking my lucky stars that I just learned a free lesson that could have been a very very costly one.

    Tldr: Set ebrake and chock wheels whenever using a jack. And lockout tagout exists for a reason. And dont be a dumbass.

    Long version: Wife's Toyota Matrix was making a very quiet squeak when turning. I pulled the pads and saw that it was basically metal on metal. She was interested in learning to change pads and rotors so we went through one side together a couple days later. That ended up taking long enough that we called it a night with one side done. I told her not to drive it but didn't leave a note on the steering wheel so the next day she took it to go get her second covid vaccine. Not entirely her fault since I walked by while it was gone and didn't think anything of it.

    She just started the second side this evening and after a couple problems I ended up finishing the install. I zipped the lugnuts on with an impact and then began using a breaker bar for the final snug up. On the first lugnut the car slowly rolled back off the jack and onto the jack stand. After a brief heart attack while I wondered why the car was moving everything stopped and I was able to remove the jack, get the car lifted back up, jack stand removed and the car lowered onto all 4 wheels.

    Things we did right: Use jack stands

    Things we did wrong: Everything else.

    Next time: Chock wheels everytime. 1 side was done with the e brake and no chocks. Either finish the job in one day or leave several VERY obvious Do Not Drive notes. And check the fucking e brake.
    I appreciate you posting this story. Too easy to do shit like this when you're in a hurry or just not paying attention. Glad it ended up ok.

  20. #2445
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,064
    Quote Originally Posted by John_B View Post
    Well I'm currently sitting down drinking a beer and thanking my lucky stars that I just learned a free lesson that could have been a very very costly one.

    Tldr: Set ebrake and chock wheels whenever using a jack. And lockout tagout exists for a reason. And dont be a dumbass.

    Long version: Wife's Toyota Matrix was making a very quiet squeak when turning. I pulled the pads and saw that it was basically metal on metal. She was interested in learning to change pads and rotors so we went through one side together a couple days later. That ended up taking long enough that we called it a night with one side done. I told her not to drive it but didn't leave a note on the steering wheel so the next day she took it to go get her second covid vaccine. Not entirely her fault since I walked by while it was gone and didn't think anything of it.

    She just started the second side this evening and after a couple problems I ended up finishing the install. I zipped the lugnuts on with an impact and then began using a breaker bar for the final snug up. On the first lugnut the car slowly rolled back off the jack and onto the jack stand. After a brief heart attack while I wondered why the car was moving everything stopped and I was able to remove the jack, get the car lifted back up, jack stand removed and the car lowered onto all 4 wheels.

    Things we did right: Use jack stands

    Things we did wrong: Everything else.

    Next time: Chock wheels everytime. 1 side was done with the e brake and no chocks. Either finish the job in one day or leave several VERY obvious Do Not Drive notes. And check the fucking e brake.
    Also
    Put the car on the ground for final torquing down the lug nutz.

  21. #2446
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,858
    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Also
    Put the car on the ground for final torquing down the lug nutz.
    Totally. Also, leave the car on the ground before cracking the lugs off to begin with. After everything's loose, THEN jack it up. Poor, John_B. Like Rev Floater said, when you're in a rush or not paying attention, it's all too easy for us to do stuff like this.

  22. #2447
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,737
    Quote Originally Posted by Mazderati View Post
    Yeah, I ended up buying the 7000SLX. It's good with some shortcomings. Would probably buy again if I didn't have access to a two or four post lift.

    1. The 7000SLX was the biggest model offered at the time. It is barely long enough to accommodate an Acura RL on the factory rocker panel pinch weld lift points. Maybe the RL has especially wide lift points but it's not a giant car. Think Accord sized at 120%.
    2. The rubber lift blocks, especially the pinch weld blocks, are a great idea but are significantly smaller than the jack area in which they sit. The area the lift blocks sit might measure 14"Lx8"Wx1"H (guessing without looking) but the lift blocks themselves might only be 4"Lx3"Wx1.5"H. That means the lift needs to be positioned plus the lift blocks need to be positioned. Bigger lift blocks that fill the entirety of the area they sit would be more stable and mean less setup. Also, if the lift block is only 1.5"H, the weight of the vehicle may compress the lift block enough to where the car is sitting on the frame of the jack.
    3. Setup can take a while. If lifting the same cars in the same location, find the ideal setup and mark the floor with the tire and jack locations so you're not starting from scratch every time.
    4. Not a fan of the truck adapters. I'm sure there are thousands with no issues but there is nothing that secures them to the jack or the car and they are not confidence inspiring.
    5. Flat surface required. Flat and smooth is best.
    This will only be used on body on frame vehicles, so I don't think I have to worry too much about the factory jack points. I doubt this thing will lift the Jeep much higher than I need for a tire rotation, but that is ok. It is high enough to just roll a creeper under anyway. The Bronco and my wife's QX will be the main targets. I doubt I will do much more than tire rotations on the QX too. The Bronco isn't high enough yet to just creep under, so this seems like the best option. We'll see how it does. Appreciate the feedback. I am going to get the truck adapters. If those don't work, I am sure some sections of 4X4 will take care of it.

  23. #2448
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    4,996
    Finally got around to doing some wrenching, it's been a long time. I didn't drive very much last year, and still not a lot these days. No commute will do that.
    Well my beloved e34 540i had started making a metallic rotating sound in the fall after going biking, so I parked it. And there it sat. I finally decided I wanted to dig into the other day. So I pulled the fan off, and jumped it. Still rotational noise. So I pulled the serpentine belt off and jumped it. No metallic sound! Yay! Okay, popped the belt pulleys off, and one of them was knackered. So new pulleys new belt. Out it back together, sounded great. But when I would rev the motor by hand, heard an odd squeal. Pulled the fan again, and fired it up. No squeal. Ok, fan clutch. Replaced the fan clutch. No squeal! Okay. Change out nicked radiator coolant hose. Was leaking. All set. Gotta love self bleeding engines. Why do I have so much white water vapor coming out of the exhaust? It's warm out! Hopefully the head gasket isn't fuckered. Went for a test drive. Car drove fine, felt fine. Get back home. No more water vapor. Engine temp stable with the needle right where it always is. Sweet. Done. Top off fluid tomorrow in the am, and I guess I'll start driving it on errands, see how it goes. Sorry, no pics. That's all boring shit anyways.

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  24. #2449
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    2,571

    Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

    These TDI oil changes are a breeze compared to the $400 the stealership wants. Dipstick and extractor [w/ top mount filter]. Then add best oil and save over 300.. so satisfying you値l be sure to scroll thru GS and justify some mag gear every 5k miles Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by CascadeLuke; 04-24-2021 at 02:16 PM.

  25. #2450
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    1,218
    Quote Originally Posted by CascadeLuke View Post
    These TDI oil changes are a breeze compared to the $400 the stealership wants.
    Um, what? $400 oil change?

    I知 paying close to $100 on my VW sportwagen TDI, but $400 would make me sell the car pretty damn quick.

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