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  1. #3001
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
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    2,100
    Does throwing your whole VIN into that search function narrow it down? I’d start there. If not, I’d call a Volvo dealer that you don’t have a sour relationship with and ask their parts people if they can narrow it down for you.


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  2. #3002
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    The Garden State
    Posts
    4,735
    color codes on the springs -- white green green , red red blue --- look at springs and see if you see a series of three marks not exactly those but if you see you'll see what I mean

  3. #3003
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
    Posts
    7,926
    https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/p...738/?id=226738

    That makes it look like your code for front spring is the first two digits on the bottom left of that sticker if you have one.

    I know a lot of cars have left and right and springs for autos/manuals etc because of weight differences and that is what the paint marks are for on the side of the spring. Gets confusing and takes googling. In the end, you can probably use any of those springs and have a car that goes down the road fine.

  4. #3004
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,858
    Quote Originally Posted by mcphee View Post
    Does throwing your whole VIN into that search function narrow it down? I’d start there. If not, I’d call a Volvo dealer that you don’t have a sour relationship with and ask their parts people if they can narrow it down for you.
    I did. Still doesn't narrow it down, BUT thanks to Ugly's link, it apparently boils down to chassis code which that helped me decipher. I should still double check with dealer before pulling the trigger, but their parts dept and I are still cool. It's their lousy service dept that's still on my shit list. Hehe

    Quote Originally Posted by Aldo View Post
    color codes on the springs -- white green green , red red blue --- look at springs and see if you see a series of three marks not exactly those but if you see you'll see what I mean
    I only have 2 color dots on each that I saw. Orange and Yellow. Don't know what that means, but that's all I could see.

    Quote Originally Posted by uglymoney View Post
    https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/p...738/?id=226738

    That makes it look like your code for front spring is the first two digits on the bottom left of that sticker if you have one.

    I know a lot of cars have left and right and springs for autos/manuals etc because of weight differences and that is what the paint marks are for on the side of the spring. Gets confusing and takes googling. In the end, you can probably use any of those springs and have a car that goes down the road fine.
    THANK YOU!!! That link had just what I needed (I think). Always wondered what that sticker was for. Anyway, apparently the first 2 digits of the chassis code are what I needed to look for. $185 each, though. OOF! Freaking Volvo. Always expensive ass parts. Glad I do all my own labor or this car would've been the end of me. Haha. It needs new struts BAD, though. My car's starting to ride like Uncle Buck's Mercury Marquis Brougham.

  5. #3005
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,858
    Just called dealer to verify. Yup! The link Ugly posted was indeed correct. Thanks, guys!

  6. #3006
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,858
    So, another dumb coil spring question. Existing springs seem to be in good condition. No rust or cracks or anything. I thought preassembling the strut/coil setup seemed like a good idea but geez that's a lot of extra coin for mine. At 200K, would it be a bad thing to keep on using the old ones? Guess I'll need a spring compressor setup. I'm a total suspension rookie so pretty clueless on this one.

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  7. #3007
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,126
    I'd reuse coil springs unless damaged. Spring compressors aren't that scary, just be careful. You can get loaner ones from Autozone.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  8. #3008
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    So, another dumb coil spring question. Existing springs seem to be in good condition. No rust or cracks or anything. I thought preassembling the strut/coil setup seemed like a good idea but geez that's a lot of extra coin for mine. At 200K, would it be a bad thing to keep on using the old ones? Guess I'll need a spring compressor setup. I'm a total suspension rookie so pretty clueless on this one.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app
    I would reuse, OEM springs are pretty beefy. Most spring replacement are for breakage , rust or performance upgrades. Infact lots of folks hate them after upgrading and you probably won't be road rallying that soccer mom Vulva wagon.

  9. #3009
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
    Posts
    7,926
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    I'd reuse coil springs unless damaged. Spring compressors aren't that scary, just be careful. You can get loaner ones from Autozone.
    They are like $35 to $50. I bought the oem brand and have used them many times. So much better than the pain in the ass of borrowing. But obviously great for one time users.

    Just always keep the spring laying flat on the ground when under compression. Never stand it up. I just treat it like a loaded gun with barrels on both ends.

    OEMTOOLS 25550 MacPherson 10.75 Inch Strut Spring Compressor, Set of 2 Universal Spring Compressor Tools, 9.75 Inch Maximum Safe Opening https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMDPLM...0MWDKWBJHVJKDQ

    Most shops will compress and assemble them for $50ish bucks as well if you're gun shy...and I totally relate. It is a bit scary, or if you're not scared you're probably doing it wrong.

    I think reuse depends on the car. Every car we own hammers especially the rear springs because we load the shit out of them and haul ass going to the mountains and back over bouncy interstates at full load.

    For a grocery getter Volvo and $185 each I would seriously consider resuse unless you have noticeable annoying sag.

  10. #3010
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,858
    Ok. Thanks everyone. Yeah. Total slow ass grocery getter I'm just trying to run til the wheels fall off. Will try and reuse springs then. Thought I might as well replace when I saw how some were only like $35-50 each, but when I saw how mine were specific to variant codes and THOSE were like $185 (almost $300 at dealer) each, it made me second guess that direction. Will be doing rears next plus suspension on my parents aging vehicles after I learn on mine, so maybe a compression tool set is a worthy investment. Pulling the trigger on all the strut components this weekend.

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  11. #3011
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    303
    Just a heads up. those auto store spring compressors are sketchy on springs for trucks and SUVs. I just did the shocks and struts on my Gen 3 Tacoma and I was able to buy fully built struts online (i.e., w/ new spring and top hat installed on the strut). I was upgrading, so the cost of the complete setup was not a big deal. Made it super easy to just swap em out. Also, youtube rules. There are many tutorials for the whole process online. Unbelievably easy compared to doing it BITD, w/ just a shop manual, or nothing,

  12. #3012
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,951

    Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wapow View Post
    Just a heads up. those auto store spring compressors are sketchy on springs for trucks and SUVs. I just did the shocks and struts on my Gen 3 Tacoma and I was able to buy fully built struts online (i.e., w/ new spring and top hat installed on the strut). I was upgrading, so the cost of the complete setup was not a big deal. Made it super easy to just swap em out. Also, youtube rules. There are many tutorials for the whole process online. Unbelievably easy compared to doing it BITD, w/ just a shop manual, or nothing,
    FYI Tacos and 4Runners (and probably many other vehicles ) there’s an extremely easy, extremely safe way to remove struts and you DONT need a spring compressor.

    Look up “no spring compressor method” on YouTube. Basically you hold the spring compressed and bolted in with a floor jack under the lower control arm and the body supported on jack stands. Then unbolt then top strut nut (you leave e bottom strut nut attached to the control arm) Then slowly release the floor jack and the spring will decompress with the lower control arm, the strut extends and the you can take it all off with zero tension on anything. I did my 4tunner suspension multiple times and had it down to about a five minute job.

    It’s all very controlled, the strut is attached to the car so it’s not going to fly off under spring pressure, the spring is held in check by the strut and your wheel well so it’s not long anywhere.

    Don’t get preassembled struts unless you’re going high quality like Bilstein, Dobindon, Fox and the like. Most of the cheap pre-assembled strut assemblies you’ll find online are poor quality springs that will sag soon, and they come attached to crappy gas struts like Monroe and Skyjacker. I wouldn’t ever recommend going with cheap aftermarket springs.

  13. #3013
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Missoula
    Posts
    2,104
    I'm pretty sure i've used the shitty screw type compressors on a tacoma front strut and it was fine.

    I've been meaning to buy one of these for awhile now though

    Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #3014
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
    Posts
    7,926
    That works. I did my 4R ARB/Old Man Emu springs and Bilsteins with my cheap OEM brand spring compressor. No problema. YMMV.

    Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk

  15. #3015
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    303
    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    FYI Tacos and 4Runners (and probably many other vehicles ) there’s an extremely easy, extremely safe way to remove struts and you DONT need a spring compressor.

    Look up “no spring compressor method” on YouTube. Basically you hold the spring compressed and bolted in with a floor jack under the lower control arm and the body supported on jack stands. Then unbolt then top strut nut (you leave e bottom strut nut attached to the control arm) Then slowly release the floor jack and the spring will decompress with the lower control arm, the strut extends and the you can take it all off with zero tension on anything. I did my 4tunner suspension multiple times and had it down to about a five minute job.

    It’s all very controlled, the strut is attached to the car so it’s not going to fly off under spring pressure, the spring is held in check by the strut and your wheel well so it’s not long anywhere.

    Don’t get preassembled struts unless you’re going high quality like Bilstein, Dobindon, Fox and the like. Most of the cheap pre-assembled strut assemblies you’ll find online are poor quality springs that will sag soon, and they come attached to crappy gas struts like Monroe and Skyjacker. I wouldn’t ever recommend going with cheap aftermarket springs.
    I watched a vid of a guy doing it that way. Pretty inventive. I put in Bilstein 6112s in the front and 5160s in the back. Huge upgrade relatively cheap. I'd try your method next time, now that I know the rest of the steps aren't too bad. My truck has 70k so I was expecting some potential difficulties, which turned out not to be the case. Having the replacements prebuilt seemed like a no brainer, given they come with new springs and the cost of the tophat and assembly was "cheap". As for the spring compressors, I have a set for sale if anyone wants them.

  16. #3016
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driven way past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    3,068
    A word on loaner tools from AZone and others - take a good look at them before you use them. I’ve borrowed a bunch and usually had good results but they’re only as good as the last knucklehead who used them. For example a brake line flare tool. Made a test flare and it was uneven, tried another same result. Then I took a close look at the adapter and the damn thing was bent. Bought my own set and had no problem.

    I realize the spring compressor isn’t exactly a precision device but if it looks loose, stripped or at all janky I’d say no thanks.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  17. #3017
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    San Juan Islands, WA.
    Posts
    1,188
    Quote Originally Posted by Obstruction View Post
    A word on loaner tools from AZone and others - take a good look at them before you use them. I’ve borrowed a bunch and usually had good results but they’re only as good as the last knucklehead who used them. For example a brake line flare tool. Made a test flare and it was uneven, tried another same result. Then I took a close look at the adapter and the damn thing was bent. Bought my own set and had no problem.

    I realize the spring compressor isn’t exactly a precision device but if it looks loose, stripped or at all janky I’d say no thanks.
    Good advice. I have an OTC spring compressor that had never been abused or loaned out but the last time I used it the threaded rod snapped at the nut sending the fully compressed spring flying across the shop. Luckily it didn't hit me or anything in the shop, looking at the break there was no sign of any preexisting damage or any reason it failed.
    I have an older version without the pins to secure the spring.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  18. #3018
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Almost Mountains
    Posts
    1,883
    Quote Originally Posted by jamal View Post
    I'm pretty sure i've used the shitty screw type compressors on a tacoma front strut and it was fine.

    I've been meaning to buy one of these for awhile now though

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I've used cheap compressors on VW struts and on my F-150. The latter was moderately terrifying given how much force I needed to apply to the screw to get the springs compressed enough, and I wasn't even disassembling them (added SuperSpring helper inserts). If I need to disassemble at some point in the future, I'll either farm it out or get my hands on better spring compressors.

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  19. #3019
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    2,296

  20. #3020
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,766
    ^^ It's devilishly good? Those rpm's...
    Did you have to pull the side marker light to get enough charge into it to unlock the doors?

  21. #3021
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,858
    Just bit the bullet and ordered this Bilstein kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...ein-22182876kt
    and this coil spring compressor tool: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mcp...ol-lisle-62300
    Hoping to do the job this weekend. Wish me luck. I'm only a bit scared because that car's my only wheels these days so I have to bang it out kinda quick. Better not have any issues that require a trip to the store or I'm screwed. Haha. Scarier wrenching when you have no backup ride.

  22. #3022
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,126
    ^^^ Have a can or two of your favorite rust penetrant on hand. And a propane torch, a torque wrench, air tools, etc...
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  23. #3023
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    10,467
    This may be common sense but lubricate the threaded rods on tools like the one shown above. Makes turning easier and extends the life of the tool.

  24. #3024
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,858
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    ^^^ Have a can or two of your favorite rust penetrant on hand. And a propane torch, a torque wrench, air tools, etc...
    For sure. Gonna spray a butt ton of PB Blaster on every damn bolt day ahead and morning of the job. Haha. Also got my kick ass Milwaukee 1/2" impact ready to rock.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mazderati View Post
    This may be common sense but lubricate the threaded rods on tools like the one shown above. Makes turning easier and extends the life of the tool.
    Thanks. Good tip. That's what I've been reading everywhere. Any advice on what lube works best for that purpose? Something thick like axle grease or something simple like a particular lubricant spray?

  25. #3025
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    10,467
    I've used a light machine oil like a 3-In-One but just about anything is better than nothing. Grease sounds messy.

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