Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[Squirreljam]

I had a local shop put my winter tires on. Their phone call was that my brakes needed to be replaced. $800 for front pads and rotors, rear pads and rotors machined.
The car is not worth that much to me, and I'm not going to put $1000 into it.
I went to the local parts store bought front and rear pads, and some caliper grease and a wide back tool for the rears.
Replaced the front pads, rotors had plenty of meat and no scoring. It was a simple and easy process.
I then pulled the rear wheels and the rear pads measured out to 8mm, while the new rear pad was 9mm.
I returned the rears and wingback tool.
So for 2 hours of my time $40 for new front pads, I saved $750 from the garage who quoted me over $800.

yeah this bullshit bugs me too, had the same happen; the older (15yrs, 200k) of my two odysseys failed safety with brakes and the shop quoted 800. I had a advance store credit for 100 so fuck it, rotors will be fine, I’ll take front and rear pads for 100, vanna. Plus, no bracket bolts to remove to change the rotors (with those fucking screws Honda puts in that seize). Took it back for the reinspection, the guys like oh, ok, uh, that’ll pass

[Todd Zander]

When I drop vehicles off for inspections I usually let them know i will be performing any of the repairs that they may recommend.

[gravitylover]

Looks like a good weather window to get some stuff done. Turns out it's a good thing I didn't have those lca's totally removed last week and only popped the ball joint side off. The other bolts are torque to yield so are one time use. Unfortunately like the ones in the back they're dealer only with a 6+ week wait and they're stupid expensive. How big a deal would it be if I get high grade hardware that matches the spec other than the tty aspect?

[Mustonen]

Is the engine turbocharged? Turbine wheel wouldn't like it but damage not guaranteed.

Yeah, she’s got a little turbo. Ran like a top in to work today. Had this question in my head so checked out the turbo a few times on the way. Seemed normal, no noise that I could detect. What would I be looking at, less efficiency/random catastrophic failure?

[powbmps]

Constantly removing tires on the family vehicles for various reasons. Recently had some seized lug nuts on a Chevy 2500. After bending two lug wrenches, I borrowed one of these from a friend:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-2...4fad26c83fa97b

On sale at Home Depot, so I just ordered one for myself. Wish I had done it years ago. Would have saved me multiple tweaked backs, and plenty of frustration.

[Obstruction]

Constantly removing tires on the family vehicles for various reasons. Recently had some seized lug nuts on a Chevy 2500. After bending two lug wrenches, I borrowed one of these from a friend:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-2...4fad26c83fa97b

On sale at Home Depot, so I just ordered one for myself. Wish I had done it years ago. Would have saved me multiple tweaked backs, and plenty of frustration.

Decent product. Be careful putting lug nuts on with it though. Max power will over torque the shit out of them.

[powbmps]

Yessir, good advice. I do the final tightening by hand. My friend uses them in his bridge business, and they seem to hold up well.

Decent product. Be careful putting lug nuts on with it though. Max power will over torque the shit out of them.

[mcphee]

Looks like a good weather window to get some stuff done. Turns out it's a good thing I didn't have those lca's totally removed last week and only popped the ball joint side off. The other bolts are torque to yield so are one time use. Unfortunately like the ones in the back they're dealer only with a 6+ week wait and they're stupid expensive. How big a deal would it be if I get high grade hardware that matches the spec other than the tty aspect?

What size are those bolts (thread diameter) and what is the torque spec?

[gravitylover]

M14 x 103mm, 120ft/lb then an additional 90° turn.

[mcphee]

M14 x 103mm, 120ft/lb then an additional 90° turn.

You got a Fastenal nearby? I’d trust them to find what you need and have it in stock.

[gravitylover]

Good thought but the best they have is a coarse thread, grade 8, good to 100ft/lb. Off to the research machine...

[refried]

Constantly removing tires on the family vehicles for various reasons. Recently had some seized lug nuts on a Chevy 2500. After bending two lug wrenches, I borrowed one of these from a friend:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-2...4fad26c83fa97b

On sale at Home Depot, so I just ordered one for myself. Wish I had done it years ago. Would have saved me multiple tweaked backs, and plenty of frustration.

I've had one for a few years and highly recommend it, It's been dropped and abused and still works/looks like new. Some people don't like the pin to hold the socket on but I've never had to push the pin in to remove one, I usually keep a 1" ball detent extension on my impact anyway it makes changing sockets easier. I don't know how long a 4 Ah battery would last in it though I usually grab a 6 Ah to use with mine.
Has any one tried the aftermarket batteries to use in DeWalt tools? I have a pretty good selection of OEM batteries and have had no complaints (other than price), but this summer I built a barn with a friend who had a few batteries he picked up on Amazon for about 1/2 the price of OEM batteries and they held up as well as my DeWalts.

[gravitylover]

For home use I find corded to be more than sufficient with excess torque and they're way less expensive. I got what has turned out to be a great value when I got one for $90 at Harbor Freight.

[Mazderati]

Yeah, she’s got a little turbo. Ran like a top in to work today. Had this question in my head so checked out the turbo a few times on the way. Seemed normal, no noise that I could detect. What would I be looking at, less efficiency/random catastrophic failure?

Out of balance / vibration / coffee grinder noise / decreased performance. If none of that is happening I would roll with it.

[gravitylover]

Gotta love specialty parts suppliers that have alternatives to OE hardware. $60 for two nuts and bolts seemed silly and AB had a $25 option. Yay. Now, will FedEx get them here tomorrow so I can take advantage of 60* on Thursday?

Going from 15 year old (Phillips) 3500k Zenon bulbs to new chinesium 6000k bulbs has turned out to be a very illuminating experience ( ) I've been having the worst time driving at night since I got this truck and have been thinking it was me and my getting old eyes performing poorly but it turns out that the bulbs just sucked. I have been looking around and all of the more highly recommended D1S bulbs were between $60>100 each and that just seems unnecessary so I kept looking. These https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KTDR2F6...roduct_details sounded good so I figured as long as they don't cause the thing to throw codes and cause general chaos it would be worth a try especially since it shot me a half off deal making two bulbs $20 with free shipping. I guess as long as they don't fry the LCM it was a worthy purchase so IMO some of the forums that only spew the problem side of things can be ignored, at least for what this company is providing.

[mcphee]

Gotta love specialty parts suppliers that have alternatives to OE hardware. $60 for two nuts and bolts seemed silly and AB had a $25 option. Yay. Now, will FedEx get them here tomorrow so I can take advantage of 60* on Thursday?

Going from 15 year old (Phillips) 3500k Zenon bulbs to new chinesium 6000k bulbs has turned out to be a very illuminating experience ( ) I've been having the worst time driving at night since I got this truck and have been thinking it was me and my getting old eyes performing poorly but it turns out that the bulbs just sucked. I have been looking around and all of the more highly recommended D1S bulbs were between $60>100 each and that just seems unnecessary so I kept looking. These https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KTDR2F6...roduct_details sounded good so I figured as long as they don't cause the thing to throw codes and cause general chaos it would be worth a try especially since it shot me a half off deal making two bulbs $20 with free shipping. I guess as long as they don't fry the LCM it was a worthy purchase so IMO some of the forums that only spew the problem side of things can be ignored, at least for what this company is providing.

Nice! Glad you found some. Was trying to help more but got very busy.

[gravitylover]

That's cool, made me think

Here's a Rock Auto 5% off code I just got emailed to me - 193005190171625603 - I have no idea how long it's good for. If anyone else has one how bout sharing it? Dem parts iz getting Spensive $$$

[gravitylover]

Side 1 done with a few glitches tossed at me that were quickly overcome. After cutting off the old one because the shaft was spinning in the completely, totally wasted ball joint I remembered a trick Ed China used on TV years ago and jacked the new one in until it was snug and the shaft couldn't spin so I didn't ruin it. The other side ought to go pretty smoothly now that I've got the shit figured out.

I'm absolutely amazed at the lack of rust under this truck. For the most part things loosen up with just a bit of persuasion, the only thing I've needed to use the impact on are lug nuts. The front sway bar is the only thing with rust on it. Yay. The downside/upside might be the oil spray I found under the plastic tray when I dropped it today to get the jack stands under the subframe. Downside is it looks like it might be coming from the back of the motor (main seal?), upside is it got sucked in all sortsa directions and has coated just about everything with a nice layer of protectant

About those undertrays... 15 years and 146k miles have pretty well wasted them. They're cracked, missing bolts because the holes wore out and they shook loose and just generally in need of replacing. I don't really need off road protection so what if I just make some out of galvanized sheet metal that's easy to cut and bend? As long as I get vent holes in the right place it should be good right? I can even cut a hole to get a hose from a Fumoto valve through.

[oftpiste]

Does a bilge count? Had a marine electrician tell me my alternator had no output the other day, so I set about to pull it and take it to the marine electric place for repair or replace. I am decidedly not much of a wrench, but I'm trying with the boat.

I read online that there was a positive connection and a plug that could be pulled. Disconnected the positive and ended up braking the plug as I couldn't see it (boat yoga) and it wasn't actually plug, but a hardwired and plastic encased connection inside the back of the alternator.

Sheepishly showed up at the marine electric place with my broken shit and he made my day. No worries about the broken thing, just get a 'self exciting' (LOL) alternator. Just one wire to connect, and he had one on the shelf for way less than I thought I was gonna be in for. And all I have to do with those old wires is tape them up.

I know things rarely go this well, so I'm counting my blessings and appreciating my current state of stoke.

[gravitylover]

^^Nicely done.

Hell yeah, new control arms are in and (so far) it feels amazing and the brakes don't bump and grind as the dry rotted bushings twist and collapse. The old lca ball joints were all jiggly and wobbly so maybe now the front end won't follow the grooves in the road so much. I'm on a roll now

[warthog]

I think this belongs here. This crew can appreciate.

[warthog]

Does a bilge count? Had a marine electrician tell me my alternator had no output the other day, so I set about to pull it and take it to the marine electric place for repair or replace. I am decidedly not much of a wrench, but I'm trying with the boat.

I read online that there was a positive connection and a plug that could be pulled. Disconnected the positive and ended up braking the plug as I couldn't see it (boat yoga) and it wasn't actually plug, but a hardwired and plastic encased connection inside the back of the alternator.

Sheepishly showed up at the marine electric place with my broken shit and he made my day. No worries about the broken thing, just get a 'self exciting' (LOL) alternator. Just one wire to connect, and he had one on the shelf for way less than I thought I was gonna be in for. And all I have to do with those old wires is tape them up.

I know things rarely go this well, so I'm counting my blessings and appreciating my current state of stoke.

Any advice you need, please reach out either here or PM's. I sold the big boat, but I can help with most anything other than AIS and radar shit. I kinda miss messing with the boat. I don't miss the $700/month lift fee, or the $300 fill ups to putz around the bay.

[oftpiste]

Thanks! Always good to know there's a sympathetic ear out there. The electrician's visit was a revelation. Finaly got a clear view of how the battery and charging systems work. Hours with the voltmeter and I couldn't get it organized.

You're welcome to come and mess around on my boat any time.

I guess the bottom line of this project is that I had no idea what a 'self exciting' alternator was or that it even existed. And I spent considerable time researching.

Any advice you need, please reach out either here or PM's. I sold the big boat, but I can help with most anything other than AIS and radar shit. I kinda miss messing with the boat. I don't miss the $700/month lift fee, or the $300 fill ups to putz around the bay.

[The Tortoise]

^^Nicely done.

Hell yeah, new control arms are in and (so far) it feels amazing and the brakes don't bump and grind as the dry rotted bushings twist and collapse. The old lca ball joints were all jiggly and wobbly so maybe now the front end won't follow the grooves in the road so much. I'm on a roll now

I really need to do the LCAs on my 07 Highlander. I replaced them a few years ago with AC Delco parts from RockAuto and the bushings are totally fucked. In Canada so shipping them back isn't worth the time. I figure I'll bit the bullet and get my shop to put on OEM ones. The front end is currently all over the place, your experience was the kick in the ass I needed.

[gravitylover]

^ I picked up a tidbit that may help those bushings last longer. Don't tighten that bolt with the car in the air and the wheels/hubs hanging, snug them then put it back down and load everything before tightening. Not the ball joint end, the bushing end, tighten the ball joint end fully before lowering it onto the wheels. This way the bushings aren't already twisted and doing double duty.

OMG it steers so nicely now! I have to use 2 fingers rather than 1 but it goes where I point it