Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[powdrhound]

I still can’t understand how they allowed headlights that become dangerous so quickly.

[MontuckyFried]

Well I'm a happy camper. I all but gave up on spending money on my geriatric vehicles last year as I contemplated replacing both of them. Well, as I failed to save up enough to replace either one of them (dang life keeps kicking me in the pants!), I decided to just get them both completely sorted out. Worth it. I'm pretty stoked as both my high mileage cars are running like champs now, and saving a butt ton by just trying to do as much work as I can myself!!!

Just replaced both motor mounts on my Trailblazer. About 180,000 miles on it and runs smoooooooooth now! Now just gotta do some fluid swaps, spark plugs, and an air injection pump (been bad since like 60K haha) so I can finally get rid of that pesky check engine light and it'll be all right as rain for a little longer! Just ordered some new tires too at a steep discount so I'm thrilled. I still wanna ditch it for an economical car, but I might as well take care of it in the meanwhile is my logic.

Volvo XC70 update: After some car drama with it lately but doing lots of work to sort it out, I took the risk and drove it to Montana and back. Added almost 4,000 miles to it, and it runs better than it ever has since I've owned it! Now at 172,000 miles. After doing a MAF sensor cleanup, changed spark plugs, air filter, swapped all fluids, etc., throttle response is wonderful and it actually has more power than I've ever felt it have. Looks fly with its sparkly new headlight assemblies and all new upgraded brake rotors/pads, so it also has WAY better viz and stops on a dime now. Actually now that I think about it, I realize it's braking better than it did when I bought it with less than 50K on the clock. Car just runs so beautifully. Actually SHOCKINGLY good for a car with that many miles.

Did a full detail on both last weekend, the leather and plastics are in fantastic shape in both, and it's kind of made me realize that I can hopefully squeeze a ton more mileage out of both. Now I feel challenged to see the Volvo to 300K. As I shopped around lately, it was tough to swallow the thought of me getting MAYBE a couple grand for each (if I'm lucky) since they're so high mileage, just to get something not nearly as nice for way more money. Will do an update on the Volvo when it hits 200K.

Is it just me or are straight-6's super reliable in general? Smooth too. Funny that both of my vehicles have the same kind of engine.

[Skidog]

Well I'm a happy camper. I all but gave up on spending money on my geriatric vehicles last year as I contemplated replacing both of them. Well, as I failed to save up enough to replace either one of them (dang life keeps kicking me in the pants!), I decided to just get them both completely sorted out. Worth it. I'm pretty stoked as both my high mileage cars are running like champs now, and saving a butt ton by just trying to do as much work as I can myself!!!

Just replaced both motor mounts on my Trailblazer. About 180,000 miles on it and runs smoooooooooth now! Now just gotta do some fluid swaps, spark plugs, and an air injection pump (been bad since like 60K haha) so I can finally get rid of that pesky check engine light and it'll be all right as rain for a little longer! Just ordered some new tires too at a steep discount so I'm thrilled. I still wanna ditch it for an economical car, but I might as well take care of it in the meanwhile is my logic.

Volvo XC70 update: After some car drama with it lately but doing lots of work to sort it out, I took the risk and drove it to Montana and back. Added almost 4,000 miles to it, and it runs better than it ever has since I've owned it! Now at 172,000 miles. After doing a MAF sensor cleanup, changed spark plugs, air filter, swapped all fluids, etc., throttle response is wonderful and it actually has more power than I've ever felt it have. Looks fly with its sparkly new headlight assemblies and all new upgraded brake rotors/pads, so it also has WAY better viz and stops on a dime now. Actually now that I think about it, I realize it's braking better than it did when I bought it with less than 50K on the clock. Car just runs so beautifully. Actually SHOCKINGLY good for a car with that many miles.

Did a full detail on both last weekend, the leather and plastics are in fantastic shape in both, and it's kind of made me realize that I can hopefully squeeze a ton more mileage out of both. Now I feel challenged to see the Volvo to 300K. As I shopped around lately, it was tough to swallow the thought of me getting MAYBE a couple grand for each (if I'm lucky) since they're so high mileage, just to get something not nearly as nice for way more money. Will do an update on the Volvo when it hits 200K.

Is it just me or are straight-6's super reliable in general? Smooth too. Funny that both of my vehicles have the same kind of engine.

straight 6's rock....

[highangle]

300/6 was the standard engine in Ford pickups for, like, 30 years.
Dodge had the under-square Slant 6 for 40...

[basinbeater]

There is a reason everybody used straight 6 for everything. Land cruiser, BMW, Mercedes, Ford,. Smooth. Inherently balanced.

sent from Utah.

[Skidog]

There is a reason everybody used straight 6 for everything. Land cruiser, BMW, Mercedes, Ford,. Smooth. Inherently balanced.

sent from Utah.

The straight 6 keep Cherokee 4.0 is pretty well liked in the used market typically beefed up and off roaded. Also the Datsun (ha) 280z was pretty fun with a straight 6.

Like you said smooth and balanced.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app

[snowaddict91]

Swapped out Byates1's rear shocks in the driveway this evening. For all you promaster owners, a 19mm socket works 100% fine on those stupid E24 torx bolts.

[MakersTeleMark]

Good karma mag.

[east or bust]

^^^FKNA nice work

[byates1]

Swapped out Byates1's rear shocks in the driveway this evening. For all you promaster owners, a 19mm socket works 100% fine on those stupid E24 torx bolts.

Thx bra!! I prolly die trying to keep up at snowbird, but I'll give r. Beers on me as well!

[bodywhomper]

Anybody have some recommendations of how to get this mirror to stay put? It always wants to fall out. It’s a 2000 subi legacy. There’s no screw to hold it to the mounting thing on the window. I’m trying to sell the car but....

[gravitylover]

There's a piece missing.

[bodywhomper]

There's a piece missing.

Like a small wedge?

[4matic]

Interior mirrors are designed to break loose with force in case of accident. Probably need new mirror.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[gravitylover]

Like a small wedge?

Yeah I think it has ridges on both sides and slides in the track the windshield mount creates. There are 2 small fine thread screws that add tension so it doesn't vibrate. I have one stripped one in one of our cars and the thing shakes badly, fkn annoying thing. My description is pretty terrible but you should be able to find the drawing if you search for Subaru mirror parts.

[gravitylover]

Changed the idler pulleys and belt in the '12 Forester this afternoon. One of the pulley bearings was squealing like a stuck pig so I figured do 'em both and the belt since it has 55k on it. 20 minutes and done.

Tomorrow my car gets some fresh fluids before a 3500 mile road trip.

[holmez]

Nice to see the i6 "tractor engine" is getting some love. Just finished some wrenchin' and thought I'd share some pics. Here's my awesome piece of shit 2000 Heep XJ, not "beefed up", but plenty of off-roading and 230k on the body and engine.


Got lots of unwanted time under the hood this fall/winter. Poor idling, loss of power, and being stranded in a snow storm led to a new alternator (which died under warrantly 1 week later).



Cleaned flith off from the throttle body-


Replaced throttle position sensor, and cleaned this micropenis Idle sensor. Idled well after these chores.



Ran smoother than ever for 2 weeks, then I lost heat. So I went to autozone to get some stuff to flush the heater core. Overheated on the way home, blowing my Water Pump gasket, and hopefully nothing else. Just got in from flushing black shit out of the heater core, replacing the water pump, and going for a joy ride. No leaking coolant and my heat is HOT :0

Pulled over to check on hoses/gaskets and parked next to a guy getting some dome. Slammed the hood and floored it out of there, must be a good sign.

[highangle]

Took some of my rage at current events and replaced the aft fuel tank in my OBS Ford F350 PSD 4x4 CC.
The tank filled slow, and kept the cap wet, also, the intake foot was broken off inside the tank, so I couldn't get the last 1/8 tank. It was time to drop that tank and repair the fuel pickup and vent.

For years I've read about the "38gal Tank mod", a minor retrofit that ads 20+ gallons of fuel capacity by using a steel tank made for a 72-87 Bronco that holds 38-40 gallons, made new in Canada by Spectra Premium or Doorman. Only thing I'd lose is the spare tire rack, which I don't care because it'll only hold a standard size spare and I have bigger tires anyway.
Spectra Premium F26D was $148 shipped on 'Zon.

Tank came with a conversion kit for peeps upgrading from a 19gal Ford tank, but it didn't work for me. I would have had to sweat a swaged copper tube with tiny little overlap to a stainless tube in a tight spot where I risked burning up the rest of the fuel sender applying enough heat to melt high silver solder. If I didn't get that right, the fuel pump would suck air, which you don't want in a diesel fuel system. So I primed and painted the tank with Por-15 while I waited for a bolt-on sump to arrive from Ohio Diesel Parts Company in Cleveland.

Sump came with a 3 1/4" hole saw, which was good. It's installable with the tank mounted, but I didn't need that feature, since I could go through the fuel hanger hole on top of the tank. I torqued the stainless bolts to spec with an allen bit socket. Old tank came out easy, since I used a cutoff wheel on the old bracket bolts.

Then the new tank wouldn't fit because of the exhaust pipe, which was rusted through. So I cut 4' off the exhaust of my fucking truck in 3 pieces, and turned it out in front of the rear wheel with a 45-degree piece of 4" aluminized, a 2' straight, and a $19.99 ""Resonator Tip"
Time will tell just how bad it will drone under load...But I made it so I or some shop can drop my entire work in about 2 minutes. If it's just not acceptable, I'll dent in the top right corner of the new tank about 3/4" with a jack before drop the truck off at an exhaust shop in ANC and get a new over-the-rear-axle section of 4" exhaust.


Old tank was strapped to a skid plate which hung with 3/8 bolts with 1/2" hexheads. New tank weighed about 45lbs empty and is about 5" taller than old tank [sorta shaped like a bale of hay]. 2WD applications hang tank with steel bracket straps with longer bolts which tank is designed to mount on, but 4WD applications have skid plates, which I wanted to keep. But the new sump precluded the tank resting on a skid plate...

Fortunately, I ordered the $22 straps when I bought the tank, because I couldn't see exactly how the tank was mounted, and Amazon suggested them. Eventually hung the tank by the straps, and suspended the skid plate below the tank/sump, all with 1/2" threaded rod and 36 nuts, 16 washers, and 4x8" sections of ERW conduit for standoffs.. heh




Turned into more of a retrofit/fab job than I expected [had to drill out hanger bracket for 1/2 rod, which was harder than the entire exhaust]... and I didn't get the float wire right [I used 3/32" tungsten TIG rod and an olskool brass Motorcraft float because the stock plastic float on the sending unit was so tiny I had concerns it wouldn't float a longer wire!]... and it reads 3/4 when the tank is smack full... and i'll prob need an isolator on my exhaust hanger job... but the tank holds just shy of 40 gallons [+19 in the front tank...]...and the sump is protected and won't ever leak a drop.
Knock on wood!

[basinbeater]

More midbass please...
My e34 was blessed with small 5.25 speakers in the front kickpanels. And they worked pretty well. But then I decide to try hacking up the panels and putting some 6.5 in there. Wow. Big improvement. So I ordered up some 7" Dayton reference series drivers and hacked up the panel real good. Need to do the other side. And smooth the edges. And make a grill. And paint.... But this ought to work for getting to work tomorrow.
That lineup is the original size 5.25, a 6.5 Alpine type s, and the Dayton rs180p.



sent from Utah.

[The Reverend Floater]

Took some of my rage at current events and replaced the aft fuel tank in my OBS Ford F350 PSD 4x4 CC.
The tank filled slow, and kept the cap wet, also, the intake foot was broken off inside the tank, so I couldn't get the last 1/8 tank. It was time to drop that tank and repair the fuel pickup and vent.

For years I've read about the "38gal Tank mod", a minor retrofit that ads 20+ gallons of fuel capacity by using a steel tank made for a 72-87 Bronco that holds 38-40 gallons, made new in Canada by Spectra Premium or Doorman. Only thing I'd lose is the spare tire rack, which I don't care because it'll only hold a standard size spare and I have bigger tires anyway.
Spectra Premium F26D was $148 shipped on 'Zon.

Tank came with a conversion kit for peeps upgrading from a 19gal Ford tank, but it didn't work for me. I would have had to sweat a swaged copper tube with tiny little overlap to a stainless tube in a tight spot where I risked burning up the rest of the fuel sender applying enough heat to melt high silver solder. If I didn't get that right, the fuel pump would suck air, which you don't want in a diesel fuel system. So I primed and painted the tank with Por-15 while I waited for a bolt-on sump to arrive from Ohio Diesel Parts Company in Cleveland.

Sump came with a 3 1/4" hole saw, which was good. It's installable with the tank mounted, but I didn't need that feature, since I could go through the fuel hanger hole on top of the tank. I torqued the stainless bolts to spec with an allen bit socket. Old tank came out easy, since I used a cutoff wheel on the old bracket bolts.

Then the new tank wouldn't fit because of the exhaust pipe, which was rusted through. So I cut 4' off the exhaust of my fucking truck in 3 pieces, and turned it out in front of the rear wheel with a 45-degree piece of 4" aluminized, a 2' straight, and a $19.99 ""Resonator Tip"
Time will tell just how bad it will drone under load...But I made it so I or some shop can drop my entire work in about 2 minutes. If it's just not acceptable, I'll dent in the top right corner of the new tank about 3/4" with a jack before drop the truck off at an exhaust shop in ANC and get a new over-the-rear-axle section of 4" exhaust.


Old tank was strapped to a skid plate which hung with 3/8 bolts with 1/2" hexheads. New tank weighed about 45lbs empty and is about 5" taller than old tank [sorta shaped like a bale of hay]. 2WD applications hang tank with steel bracket straps with longer bolts which tank is designed to mount on, but 4WD applications have skid plates, which I wanted to keep. But the new sump precluded the tank resting on a skid plate...

Fortunately, I ordered the $22 straps when I bought the tank, because I couldn't see exactly how the tank was mounted, and Amazon suggested them. Eventually hung the tank by the straps, and suspended the skid plate below the tank/sump, all with 1/2" threaded rod and 36 nuts, 16 washers, and 4x8" sections of ERW conduit for standoffs.. heh




Turned into more of a retrofit/fab job than I expected [had to drill out hanger bracket for 1/2 rod, which was harder than the entire exhaust]... and I didn't get the float wire right [I used 3/32" tungsten TIG rod and an olskool brass Motorcraft float because the stock plastic float on the sending unit was so tiny I had concerns it wouldn't float a longer wire!]... and it reads 3/4 when the tank is smack full... and i'll prob need an isolator on my exhaust hanger job... but the tank holds just shy of 40 gallons [+19 in the front tank...]...and the sump is protected and won't ever leak a drop.
Knock on wood!

You’re reminding me about my filler-hose issue on my 97. Flatbed on it bent the two filler hoses so that filling the tank requires exactly the right depth and angle, with some downward force.

Just picked up 4 gallons of Rotatella at Costco. Gotta love 7.3s.

Post some pics of the full beast already....

[Mazderati]

The plastic gears on the driver rear window regulator / motor combo broke in one of my cars. I use OEM parts for almost everything but Honda wanted $600 for this thing so it I went with the Dorman part for $100. First replacement sounded like a coffee grinder and second replacement didn't work at all. Third replacement in and I have a functioning window again.

[highangle]

The plastic gears on the driver rear window regulator / motor combo broke in one of my cars. I use OEM parts for almost everything but Honda wanted $600 for this thing so it I went with the Dorman part for $100. First replacement sounded like a coffee grinder and second replacement didn't work at all. Third replacement in and I have a functioning window again.

Man, the aftermarket has gone to shit since Cogswell Cogs merged with Spacely Sprockets...

[Mazderati]

The only winner.

[basinbeater]

Finally quit messing around with stereos and electronics to tackle some real shit! Rear subframe bushings, diff mount bushings, trailing arm bushings, and wheel bearings. Just dropped the frame tonight. Hassle factor elevated.

sent from Utah.

[highangle]

You got an X-wing Starfighter on your 6, BB!


srsly: What is you gonna use to mash out all them bushings?