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  1. #3076
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    9,053
    Yeah my mistake was taking it apart and trusting someone else to actually get something right. I'll call them in a little bit and if it didn't get out yesterday I'll put it back together and move on, the rain is over and it's warming up so whatever... Since I have to put it back on stands next week I might as well get some more parts, right? I'm kind of getting used to doing things twice on this stupid thing.

    The biggest time suck problem I have is how long it takes to get it lifted safely to work on it. I currently use a decent floor jack, a small bottle jack under low load things and a couple of jack stands as necessary. I try to put things under the correct points because a 6k pound brick falling on me would suck. I see pneumatic and electric bottle jacks that lift pretty high and some have a lock so they act as a stand also but would you trust something like that if it only costs about $100 or is that chinesium scary? Other than a lift what's everyone's preferred method of lifting a car/truck?

  2. #3077
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    868
    Ramps and then a 6x6 on a floor jack to set the jackstands

  3. #3078
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    14,446
    Quote Originally Posted by uglymoney View Post
    Thinking outside the box since I don't have experience with parachute wrapped propeller shafts but I did jump out of an airplane once. Assuming your wife ran over it going forward try driving the van switch to the road while she tugs on the ripcord. Pull firmly till release.
    Those look like Tibetan prayer flags and not a parachute. I'm wondering if she was visiting a hippie incense store and accidentally drove over them? It would be very bad luck to burn those. I'm going to suggest the OP consult with a Tibetan monk on the proper way to handle their removal.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  4. #3079
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    9,053
    They lie... The LCA's I ordered weren't in stock and the warehouse bozo sent whatever he felt like sending. It's gonna be a week or so to get the parts I need. Of course at that point there will probably be snow on the ground rather than it being a warm (mid 40's) morning... On the upside I got one side back together in record time and the other should be done in a few minutes and they ought to come apart lickety split next time. I'm getting good at this shit Now if I could just stop stripping threads and snapping plastic bits I'd be in good shape after I figure out where these extra parts go.

  5. #3080
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    8,793
    What a pain in the balls, gravity. Sorry, man. SO frustrating. It's times like this that make me REALLY, REALLY wish I had a proper garage with a lift and another vehicle on hand so I wasn't totally boned when things like this happen and our only mode of transportation is completely torn apart. Haha. Makes returning parts or running to the auto parts store a real bitch. #LIFEGOALS

  6. #3081
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    9,053
    Yeah it's a pain in the ass. I'm enjoying trying to slowly refresh this thing because it really will cost less than getting something different (that's bound to also need help) and in the end we need at least one large, heavy duty vehicle in the family so even if my wife and I can manage to get new cars this will still need to be here. I really hope one of us can swing something soon so we don't end up stuck with only one vehicle and 3 drivers. That and it's really nice to cruise in and we do lots of long trips but I may rethink that if gas gets too much over $5/gal. I'm also kind of addicted to the supercharger whine and throaty Euro noises it makes. Anyway...

    I have a garage vision, not sure quite how to pull it off but I'm working on it.

  7. #3082
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Almost Mountains
    Posts
    1,193
    The downside of having another vehicle is that you can then end up with two inoperable vehicles in the garage instead of one.

    Dropped my truck off for a state inspection and asked them to check out an unhappy noise from the front left in 4x4. They determined it was a hub/actuator (or IWE in Ford vocabulary), replaced the left side hub, and found it was still making the noise. Then they tried the right side and sure enough, that was the issue. Shit like that makes me rather happy to let someone else chase their tail.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using TGR Forums mobile app

  8. #3083
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,282
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    I have a garage vision, not sure quite how to pull it off but I'm working on it.
    Is a metal building an option on your property? If it was here, that is what I would do, but it is not.

  9. #3084
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    8,793
    Learned a valuable lesson this week. So I got my CV boot replaced so that was all well and good, but went to back out of a parking spot yesterday and clunk clunk, scraaaape, pop, then was ok. Stopped to investigate before driving but all seemed fine. Axles, tie rods, etc. in place. Drove perfectly fine going forward. Did it again trying to back out my driveway. Aww crap. WTF is broken now? Pulled off the wheel and found I had lost a brake caliper bolt. I had previously used loctite and torqued to specs but according to forums, apparently these bolts are kind of a 1 time use deal and it's recommended to install new bolts each time you remove the brakes.

    Ran out and bought 4 brand new ones with that thick thread locker stuff pre-applied and replaced them all. The top one on the side that lost the bolt was loose, and the bolts on the other side were barely hand tight. All seem to be holding tight now and no more weird noises. Lesson freaking learned. That could've been bad. Haha. WOOPS!!!!!

  10. #3085
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    9,053
    Yeah having a caliper come off would suck wouldn't it. I've never replaced those bolts, Rock Auto told me I should with the hint that other people get them with pads and rotors but, like most folks I've ignored it. Maybe I shouldn't.
    Quote Originally Posted by warthog View Post
    Is a metal building an option on your property? If it was here, that is what I would do, but it is not.
    I could never meet the setbacks. The house is set into a hill and open on the south side but with a 15 foot recess so I'm thinking of doing some excavating and making a carport but with removable drop sides. If I dig there should be enough room to cover a car in bad or cold weather and have dry storage space also.

  11. #3086
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    9,053
    Shit I was gonna ask about these codes I'm chasing. @Aldo they're the same ones since I got it, the 0171 and 0174 lean codes and now a P0116 inconsistent reading code. I really don't want to melt a piston...

  12. #3087
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    So. VT
    Posts
    2,607
    2021 ram, trying to install a level kit (new UCA and strut spacer) to fit some better tires.

    Anyone explain to me why one kit brand says to loosen the axle nut, and the other ones don't?

    I feel like I can do this if I just pull the UCA and strut assy.

    Don't want to fuck with the axle.

  13. #3088
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    my own little world
    Posts
    3,735
    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    Learned a valuable lesson this week. So I got my CV boot replaced so that was all well and good, but went to back out of a parking spot yesterday and clunk clunk, scraaaape, pop, then was ok. Stopped to investigate before driving but all seemed fine. Axles, tie rods, etc. in place. Drove perfectly fine going forward. Did it again trying to back out my driveway. Aww crap. WTF is broken now? Pulled off the wheel and found I had lost a brake caliper bolt. I had previously used loctite and torqued to specs but according to forums, apparently these bolts are kind of a 1 time use deal and it's recommended to install new bolts each time you remove the brakes.

    Ran out and bought 4 brand new ones with that thick thread locker stuff pre-applied and replaced them all. The top one on the side that lost the bolt was loose, and the bolts on the other side were barely hand tight. All seem to be holding tight now and no more weird noises. Lesson freaking learned. That could've been bad. Haha. WOOPS!!!!!
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Yeah having a caliper come off would suck wouldn't it. I've never replaced those bolts, Rock Auto told me I should with the hint that other people get them with pads and rotors but, like most folks I've ignored it. Maybe I shouldn't.
    I had a caliper bracket bolt back out completely a couple months back. Forget if I posted about it here. Leading bolt, so braking going backwards was fine. Braking going forward was terribly destructive.

    Made an awful racket.
    focus.

  14. #3089
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Powder Mountain
    Posts
    784
    Riddle me this

    2017 tacoma auto. Around 80k miles (i know, a lot for the age) starting to have an odd vibration/stutter on acceleration, seems to be cornering only as well. Low speeds only, 1st or 2nd gear. below 2k rpm as well. Speed dependent makes me think its driveline u joints or a transmission issue ie at higher speed its there but smooths out from the ride. what would the mags check out?

    U joints?
    engine mounts?
    anything else?

  15. #3090
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    868
    Carrier bearing

  16. #3091
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    8,793
    Fellow home garage mechanics, quick question. I'm REALLY tempted to dive into EVs or PHEVs. In an effort to get one as cheap as possible, I'm looking into getting a broken one that needs a battery swap, engine replacement, or something else that led to major failure, thus cheap. Now aside from the potential to electrocute myself like the would-be car thief in that Magnavolt commercial (Robocop 2), is this as foolhardy an attempt as getting into a "cheap" BMW? My goal here really is to LEARN about the ins and outs of them, what makes them tick, and if I'm successful, get an affordable, economical vehicle out of the deal.

    What got me thinking about this is I found a 2012 Chevy Volt with a blown engine. High miles, so I'm spooked that the batteries are a gamble, but learned the engines are freaking dirt cheap used. Like as in $500-750 cheap, and don't even really look all that hard to swap out that little engine. Dealer even only charges like 10 hours labor apparently, so it's maybe not THAT bad as far as engine swaps are concerned. Not that I'm getting this car necessarily, as it's a bit of a gamble since there's no telling what else is wrong, but owner says it's just the engine. Who knows? Just got my wheels turning is all. Also been interested in the plethora of cheap ass Nissan Leafs I've seen in the past too.

    So, broke down EVs/PHEVs. Potentially wise investments or plain stupid? Anybody here have any experience wrenching on them?

  17. #3092
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,123
    Funny, I always run the same search and viewed a few YouTube videos. Actual battery rebuild/replacement looks fairly easy but motor swap s are way beyond my shade tree skills. For a hot minute I thought I was going to swap a transmission in my beater Saab and after sobering jo sold it for a few hundy. I would surf for some EV forums and see what that engine replacement requires. I would think that community can be pretty passionate and detailed with info.

  18. #3093
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    540
    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    Fellow home garage mechanics, quick question. I'm REALLY tempted to dive into EVs or PHEVs. In an effort to get one as cheap as possible, I'm looking into getting a broken one that needs a battery swap, engine replacement, or something else that led to major failure, thus cheap. Now aside from the potential to electrocute myself like the would-be car thief in that Magnavolt commercial (Robocop 2), is this as foolhardy an attempt as getting into a "cheap" BMW? My goal here really is to LEARN about the ins and outs of them, what makes them tick, and if I'm successful, get an affordable, economical vehicle out of the deal.

    What got me thinking about this is I found a 2012 Chevy Volt with a blown engine. High miles, so I'm spooked that the batteries are a gamble, but learned the engines are freaking dirt cheap used. Like as in $500-750 cheap, and don't even really look all that hard to swap out that little engine. Dealer even only charges like 10 hours labor apparently, so it's maybe not THAT bad as far as engine swaps are concerned. Not that I'm getting this car necessarily, as it's a bit of a gamble since there's no telling what else is wrong, but owner says it's just the engine. Who knows? Just got my wheels turning is all. Also been interested in the plethora of cheap ass Nissan Leafs I've seen in the past too.

    So, broke down EVs/PHEVs. Potentially wise investments or plain stupid? Anybody here have any experience wrenching on them?
    If I remember right, the volt engine is just to provide electricity to the drive motors, ie it's like the meme of the Prius towing a diesel generator. So that's probably a much simpler engine swap than doing a traditional car.

    Maybe the engine is burned up bc all it ever did was run as a generator, and the batteries are still okay!

  19. #3094
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    8,793
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    Funny, I always run the same search and viewed a few YouTube videos. Actual battery rebuild/replacement looks fairly easy but motor swap s are way beyond my shade tree skills. For a hot minute I thought I was going to swap a transmission in my beater Saab and after sobering jo sold it for a few hundy. I would surf for some EV forums and see what that engine replacement requires. I would think that community can be pretty passionate and detailed with info.
    Yeah. Seems there is actually a lot of info out there on this one thankfully.

    Quote Originally Posted by dannynoonan View Post
    If I remember right, the volt engine is just to provide electricity to the drive motors, ie it's like the meme of the Prius towing a diesel generator. So that's probably a much simpler engine swap than doing a traditional car.

    Maybe the engine is burned up bc all it ever did was run as a generator, and the batteries are still okay!
    I think you're right. Owner got back to me and said even with dead engine, it still has about 30 miles of battery range, which is pretty close to new if true. From the little bit of research I've done, apparently the batteries in the Volt actually tend to hold up REALLY well over the long haul. Evidently they're liquid cooled, which has helped it versus the older air-cooled Leaf batteries.

    They're of course saying the whole "No LoW BaLLeRs" thing on CL, but if they'll come down I'm tempted. I won't screw with them over the price, but they'll have to come down for me to take on a project of this magnitude. I'm sure they'll sell it, but at 160K miles, it's no spring chicken either and I'd rather get it cheaper so I can afford both car + parts required to fix it.

  20. #3095
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    8,793
    Welp. That Volt was a bust. Checked it out and it was in pretty rough shape all the way around. Heavily smoked in too. Made the "No LoWbaLLErS!" in the ad all the more humorous. IF it was in good enough shape though, I would've bought it. Had a good chat with a local dealers service advisor about it and he told me they're actually damn reliable overall and said the engine swap is relatively easy. Half the time than other cars but said it's ultra rare they need replacements at all. He had never seen one come in for that and it's a popular car among the techs to own as their personal vehicles. I'll keep them on my radar for sure but will have to be a fair price. Moving on. Will be on the lookout for another broken EV/PHEV from now on in addition to my cheap broken Volvo search. Haha.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  21. #3096
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    3,761
    I had a local shop put my winter tires on. Their phone call was that my brakes needed to be replaced. $800 for front pads and rotors, rear pads and rotors machined.
    The car is not worth that much to me, and I'm not going to put $1000 into it.
    I went to the local parts store bought front and rear pads, and some caliper grease and a wide back tool for the rears.
    Replaced the front pads, rotors had plenty of meat and no scoring. It was a simple and easy process.
    I then pulled the rear wheels and the rear pads measured out to 8mm, while the new rear pad was 9mm.
    I returned the rears and wingback tool.
    So for 2 hours of my time $40 for new front pads, I saved $750 from the garage who quoted me over $800.

  22. #3097
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    my own little world
    Posts
    3,735

    Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

    Car suddenly started running like total shit. Shuddering, no power, etc. Limped to the auto parts store, bought new plugs and a coil, and then pulled the plugs real quick. Found this:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    How worried should I be about that little nubbin of a piece thatís probably now in my oil pan or or in my filter?

    Due for an oil change anyways, so planning on taking care of that tomorrow. ButÖ. Am I nuts just to drive it in and do that? Isnít that what oil filters are for? Thoughts? Obviously drove it a few miles to get plugs and then again just to confirm that it fixed my problemÖ. So any damage is likely already done.

    Car is a 2013 Audi all road. 130k miles.
    focus.

  23. #3098
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    745

    Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

    Iíll bet it got blown out the exhaust port. You could try pulling the plug, shining a light into the cylinder to see if still in there and maybe getting it out with a small magnet but I think your ok if itís running good now with no abnormal noises.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  24. #3099
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    540
    That broken off piece is in your exhaust system, not in the crankcase, so you're all good.

  25. #3100
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    Oct 2002
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    my own little world
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    3,735
    AhhhÖ good. Iíll worry less. Thanks!
    focus.

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