Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[Rideski]

So I’m looking into tie rods because my alignment somehow got pushed off.
I don’t recal hitting anything and haven’t done any wheeling for a little while. Figure if I’m going to do anything at all to tie rods I should before I do or get an alignment.

So did a crash course of reading and vids on alignment last night. Little confused about the concept of the high end machines doing alignment to 1000th of an inch. How can it be logical to be that precise when it seems there would be more variance in the tire than that? Seems like taking wheels off and attaching the sensors to the lugs would be way more accurate.

[jamal]

Generally they hook onto the wheel lip and take the measurements from there, not the tire. But yes there is flex in all the other components like rack mounts, rod ends and ball joints, control arm bushings, wheel bearings and such. Even with solid rod ends everywhere all the components still flex a little bit. So when you're driving down the road the alignment is not even what you've set it to on the rack, and then cornering, braking, acceleration forces change it further.

Anyhow, there are two pretty simple and easy ways to check toe. The first is to make a couple of rectangles of plywood, lean them against each tire, and measure the distance at the front and rear. Little slots for the tape to fit and rest into help. A set of these essentially: http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...Magnets-(pair)

I did new struts on my sister's car last year when I was visiting and just made a set to align it afterward. You do wind up having to go through a bit of trial and error if the steering isn't straight.

The slightly more involved method is to run two strings parallel to the car, maybe tied to jackstands. Or maybe two lazer levels that project a vertical line. Make them parallel to each other, and the car (or wheel hubs at least). From there you can just measure the distance from the front and rear of the wheel rim to the string. This lets you straighten out any thrust (both rear wheels toed in the same direction) as well.

The flatter and smoother the surface here, the better, also you want to roll the car back and forth a bit after adjustments to let the suspension settle into it's new position before rechecking.

[gravitylover]

Alright, that's it, I need a garage. As long as it's dry and heated I'd be good, those driveway garage tents aren't gonna cut it because I don't have the 10 foot width so it's time to get creative.

[warthog]

Anybody changed their rear diff. fluid lately? I have no idea what is in the Bronco. Kinda want to go Amsoil on this one, like my Jeep.
I can't remember if I ran the Amsoil in the Jeep for a bit and then drained and refilled to get the old mineral stuff out. I know this is the recommended method with engine oil.
From what I am reading, certain types of synth can not be mixed, but others it is NBD.
Any thoughts?

I am changing everything out to have a good base knowledge of what noises and vibrations are just normal and what is being caused by basic stuff.

[snowaddict91]

Anybody changed their rear diff. fluid lately? I have no idea what is in the Bronco. Kinda want to go Amsoil on this one, like my Jeep.
I can't remember if I ran the Amsoil in the Jeep for a bit and then drained and refilled to get the old mineral stuff out. I know this is the recommended method with engine oil.
From what I am reading, certain types of synth can not be mixed, but others it is NBD.
Any thoughts?

I am changing everything out to have a good base knowledge of what noises and vibrations are just normal and what is being caused by basic stuff.

I think amsoil is overkill for a diff in an old truck. Just go with a decent syn oil. If it has an LSD use oil with the additive or add the motorcraft supplemental stuff.

[gravitylover]

So this not having a garage thing is pissing me off. Cold, wet, etc. and I don't get things done that need to be done and even in the best conditions it adds to my "job anxiety" because I know I'm not really set up to do things as well as they should be done. 35 years ago when I was in college I used to use DIY garages but I haven't seen one in a long time. There are a couple of empty former service shops with lifts and a few new buildings that were built with multiple bays and reinforced floors to take lifts right in my area that are for rent and it got me thinking... It seems to me that there are probably plenty of other people in a place as densely populated as it is here that would appreciate a place like that. Hourly or daily space rental, maybe with some tools available, a 4 post lift, a big compressor to run air tools and possibly a real mechanic to work with. I spoke to my business insurance guy this afternoon and he's looking into what it would take to insure a business like this. What do you think, does something like this have potential? Would you use it if it was available near enough to you? What would you be willing to pay for warm, dry space with a lift?

[BobMc]

I spoke to my business insurance guy this afternoon and he's looking into what it would take to insure a business like this. What do you think, does something like this have potential

Not a chance.

[gravitylover]

Why?

[lifelinksplit]

I used to go to the shop on campus(montana state) before they shut it down. Super cheap, all the tools, had parts delivery, lift etc. I fucking loved it but they needed that $$$ real estate so it went away. Did everything from full drivetrain swaps to basic maintenance there. There is also a place in Missoula that is almost exactly what you describe with an option to have the mechanic do it.

Not having a garage atm I would def take advantage. However I always wondered how the hell they could make it work financially with what they charge an hour coupled with insurance/rent costs.

Or just pay BobMc to do it.

[Skidog]

Why?

Slc has one or had....don't know how well it did, I always thought was a good idea. Ymmv

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[fatnslow]

So this not having a garage thing is pissing me off. Cold, wet, etc. and I don't get things done that need to be done and even in the best conditions it adds to my "job anxiety" because I know I'm not really set up to do things as well as they should be done. 35 years ago when I was in college I used to use DIY garages but I haven't seen one in a long time. There are a couple of empty former service shops with lifts and a few new buildings that were built with multiple bays and reinforced floors to take lifts right in my area that are for rent and it got me thinking... It seems to me that there are probably plenty of other people in a place as densely populated as it is here that would appreciate a place like that. Hourly or daily space rental, maybe with some tools available, a 4 post lift, a big compressor to run air tools and possibly a real mechanic to work with. I spoke to my business insurance guy this afternoon and he's looking into what it would take to insure a business like this. What do you think, does something like this have potential? Would you use it if it was available near enough to you? What would you be willing to pay for warm, dry space with a lift?

There is a place in suburb of Portland that charges $35/hr and they barely get by. It's not much of a business venture since m-f 8-5 isn't used much cause most people have jobs that can pay to use the place. I used it once for lca replacement and it was pretty sweet for using the lift and air tools.

[BobMc]

They all eventually go out of business from insurance reasons.

[uglymoney]

It is how Click and Clack started their shop. Turns out they didn't make much money and everybody needed their help to finish the job anyway.

"Ray taught science[8] in Bennington, Vermont for a few years before returning to Cambridge in 1973. He and Tom then opened a do-it-yourself repair shop named Hacker's Haven.[9] The shop rented space and equipment to people who were trying to fix their own cars, but it was not profitable. Nevertheless, the two enjoyed the experience and were invited in 1977 to be part of a panel of automotive experts on Boston's National Public Radio affiliate WBUR-FM. Subsequently, the brothers converted the shop into a standard auto-repair shop named the Good News Garage.[10][11]

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[jamal]

Yeah I can't picture anything good coming from a place like that. The people who have all the right parts and knowledge and do their work quickly and smoothly would be few and far between. It'd be all people fucking things up and having their cars occupying space for way longer than planned. Plus lots of minor injuries and the occasional car falling off a lift.

[basinbeater]

Anybody changed their rear diff. fluid lately? I have no idea what is in the Bronco. Kinda want to go Amsoil on this one, like my Jeep.
I can't remember if I ran the Amsoil in the Jeep for a bit and then drained and refilled to get the old mineral stuff out. I know this is the recommended method with engine oil.
From what I am reading, certain types of synth can not be mixed, but others it is NBD.
Any thoughts?

I am changing everything out to have a good base knowledge of what noises and vibrations are just normal and what is being caused by basic stuff.

Just make sure you can get the fill plug off before you drain the fluid...

sent from Utah.

[warthog]

Just make sure you can get the fill plug off before you drain the fluid...

sent from Utah.

Why, that would give me the excuse to buy the new one I want. Actually saw a nice vid on a JY hack where they took the aluminum cover off an Explorer and cut some mounts off. It bolts right up to the 8.8. Might do that.

Appreciate the heads up though. It is stuff like that that is only learned by doing it wrong once, so thanks for your (or whoever told you) sacrifice.

[tuco]

Why, that would give me the excuse to buy the new one I want. Actually saw a nice vid on a JY hack where they took the aluminum cover off an Explorer and cut some mounts off. It bolts right up to the 8.8. Might do that.

Appreciate the heads up though. It is stuff like that that is only learned by doing it wrong once, so thanks for your (or whoever told you) sacrifice.

That's because Explorer has 8.8 too. You can also retro fit Explorer rear disc brakes onto your Bronco as well.

[warthog]

Yeah, but the Explorer attached the diff cover to some supports to make the independent rear more stable.
You just cut those mounts off and clean it up a bit.
Good to know on the brakes. Might just grab those while I am at the JY.
Gotta make sure I can easily keep the E brake though. I don't really mind the drums so far.

[basinbeater]

Reworking the workbench to make room for some more test equipment. Not really wrenching, but it will be used for wrenching. And I thought you guys could help me out. My kids helped me hang up all the license plates. But we have a shitload of Utah ones. Anybody have some old non Utah plates they want to get rid of? I'll send you a Utah one or two if you want...



sent from Utah.

[Touring_Sedan]

Found it.

[gravitylover]

Hahaha nice

[El Chupacabra]

I could use some advice on removing a broken bolt.

I'm starting a engine repair project to chase down a knock sensor code, which on this engine, means a whole lot of "while I'm in there" repairs.

2000 GMC Sierra, 6.0 V8. Repair is pretty much the same on 5.3 and the whole family of Vortec and LS motors. Mine is a LQ4, but that doesn't matter much.

Replacing: intake manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, knock sensors (underneath the intake manifold), knock sensor wire harness, coolant crossover steam pipe gaskets (also underneath the intake manifold), valve cover gaskets (small leaks, easy access with intake manifold off).

Started disassembly today and decided to do some easy stuff: the intake manifold gasket kit I bought came with gaskets for the EGR valve and the EGR pipe connection to the exhaust manifold, which attaches with two bolts. This should've taken 15 minutes...

One of the EGR bolts snapped off in the exhaust manifold flange. Started drilling it out, very slow going. Anyone have any tips on drilling out a broken bolt? The accessible side has the bolt stub recessed down in the flange, the backside has a small stub of bolt protruding, but not enough to get vice grips on it.

Do left handed drill bits really work for helping remove broken bolts? Do I want carbide drill bits, or cobalt, or something else?

[refried]

Use a sharp 1/8" bit to start and work your way up until you get close to the threads. Occasionally stop and try to spin it with a chisel. they'll usually spin before you get to the threads. A LH bit helps but they're not really needed, I have a couple sets but they're never where I'm working and a RH bit works just as well. Sharp bits are the most important thing.

[El Chupacabra]

Thanks. I've been googling and reading up on bolt extraction. I was using oil for lubricant while drilling (PB Blaster, it was handy), but I think I was drilling at too fast a speed. And I think my general use drill bits aren't good enough.

Is it worth heating the area with a torch? I have a propane torch I can use, and it's a heat safe area (exhaust manifold).

If I damage the threads while drilling, I have taps so I can chase the threads clean. At worst, I could put a bolt through the hole and use a nut on the back side.

[refried]

Just the act of drilling will produce heat, but most exhaust bolts turn freely after being broken loose. keep a sharp chisel and some good picks handy and it should come right out after drilling.
I got pretty good at drilling out broken studs when I worked in a shop rebuilding VW and Porsche heads, 90% of them had at least one broken stud.