Results 551 to 575 of 5882
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07-03-2018, 02:27 AM #551
Stupid fucking design indeed.
Part of the problem is that those screws aren't really Phillips but rather they are the JIS (usually #3 for rotors on a Honda). Looks like Philips but deeper cut. Impact driver w/the JIS should make the job a lot easier.
Speaking of stupid design I spent an hour and a half yesterday whaling on a cold chisel to get a wheel hub off of my wife's 14 Forester. The good news was a that it was a shitload easier than getting an identical bearing out of an 07 Outback last year. 7 fewer years of being immersed in New England salt and slush I imagine.Damn, we're in a tight spot!
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07-03-2018, 09:56 AM #552
^ Used this last month for brakes on a Honda product. Not sure if some of the bits are JIS but it worked well. Car only has ~30k miles so that clearly helped. Antiseize still applied to the screws on assembly.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-H.../dp/B0002NYDRG
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07-03-2018, 04:20 PM #553
Rear drive shaft ujoint is failing on my f150. I've done a few axle ujoints before but always had a helper and a hydraulic press.
Considering just doing it at my place with the hammer on socket method, not real excited about it. How much do you figure the drive shaft weighs? Why do the youtubers remove it off the drivline tang? Just easier hammering for the other two caps?
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07-03-2018, 06:54 PM #554
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07-03-2018, 07:03 PM #555
With those rotor retention screws, put the bit in, (use the right bit as specified above,) and whack it repeatedly with a hammer. I do this with any fastener I am worried might be seized. A dribble of penetrating oil, and the sharp whack with a hammer will work wonders on most fasteners that could otherwise ruin your afternoon.
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07-03-2018, 07:17 PM #556
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07-03-2018, 08:47 PM #557
You don't need to reinstall the little rotor retention screw. That's just a manufacturing artifact. Robots have an easier time assembling the thing with that JIS screw. It's fine without it. It's better than fine, you won't have to wrestle it next time.
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07-03-2018, 08:50 PM #558
Also of use: heat that bitch up until it's red hot, then touch an ice cube to it for awhile. Do that a few rounds and pound the shit out of it. You can always drill the head off, because as said above: you don't need to reinstall that stupid thing because you're not a manufacturing robot in a factory.
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07-03-2018, 10:20 PM #559
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07-03-2018, 10:45 PM #560
Reminds me of one of the greatest hacks ever for Subaru's. The clutch stops engaging on the ac compressor after 15 years but you can take it apart, remove a spacer washer, and it works perfect again for another few years. Saves over a grand for like $6 worth of screws to take it apart. Did mine at 195 and still going strong at 225k 3 summers later.
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...0&share_type=t
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07-04-2018, 06:41 AM #561
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07-04-2018, 06:57 AM #562
Last two times I compromised by bringing the parts and the removed shaft to a shop. Totally worth the $20 or $30 or whatever...
I guess that's not really the point of this thread though. "just bring it to a shop" isn't really an adventure under the hood.
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07-04-2018, 07:52 AM #563
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07-04-2018, 09:42 AM #564Registered User
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- Mar 2009
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- 3,282
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07-04-2018, 10:07 AM #565
It's much easier to do with it out of the truck.
I did it on my 4Runner with the hammer and socket method. If I could do it again, I would have bought a u joint removal tool where you clip it on the joint and ratchet it down. It's kind of like a mini hydraulic press.
It's not very hard and can be done in a few hours assuming you know what you're doing.
Edit: The post above me named the tool. It'll make things much easier.
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07-04-2018, 12:16 PM #566
I've done it to a Volvo. If your AC stops working after 10 minutes on hot days it may be because the clutch gap is too big and it no longer engages after everything heats up and expands. Get a gap measuring tool, borrow an AC clutch removal tool from an an auto parts store and it's and easy job if everything is reasonably accessible..
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07-04-2018, 04:19 PM #567
I'm a fan of buying good tools but looks like the Tiger socket press is $230. If I have lots of them to do no worries. But kinda rough for that first one. I guess other was on jeep only a couple years ago. Guess I'll sleep on it.
Hmm, maybe split it with my mechanic buddy, there's an idea.
Thanks either way tuco. Good call on mtt's ignition btw.
So yeti, then you still had to pound the last spindle in when you got it back home?
edit, oh, looks like I might be able to drop the drive shaft with the ujoint intact and then remove. Buddy with the hydraulic press says the danger is bending the yoke, not the ujoint cap, so I guess I might get it up to him across town which will be a chore but I guess that's why it's an adventure huh.Last edited by Rideski; 07-04-2018 at 09:49 PM.
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07-04-2018, 05:50 PM #568
Swapped out my stock oem shocks on my 2017 superduty with some Fox 2.0 as well as upgraded to a Fox 2.0 steering stabilizer. Did the stabilizer about a month ago and had to wait until this morning to tackle the shocks. Used a bottle jack to install the shocks with the tires on. Took 2 hours for all 4 corners.
Unlike previous projects this was nice and easy, no broken bolts, missing parts or shattered knuckles. Surprised myself.
Ride is now a 10/10 compared to oem junk. Definitely worth the $ and time.
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07-05-2018, 06:03 PM #569
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07-05-2018, 06:33 PM #570
Ha! Buddy of mine blew his 83 toyota p/u rear dif and u-joint (stupid shit and blew the seal earlier so no fluid, couldn’t believe it was possible to kill one of those difs with a stock 22r). Drove out with just the front axle under power. Couldn’t find a quick fix/replacement for the rear dif so swapped out the front dif to the rear along with a new u-joint. Damn I miss the design of those pre-86 toyotas!
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07-05-2018, 06:49 PM #571
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07-05-2018, 10:14 PM #572
Chup Hmm, both interesting options. There's a drive shaft company here that only wants $50 to do both ujoints, but waaay across town and 2 days wait. Extra $50 and they balance, which I would totally do on a newer truck. This pig not too worried.
Yeti, badass. Would work great in straight lines or on snow or dirt. Hard pavement around turns no so much.
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07-06-2018, 08:42 AM #573Registered User
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
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- 225
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07-06-2018, 01:59 PM #574
Ordered from Amazon for faster delivery -
Got two kits from Gates: one with A/C tensioner and belt, one with serpentine tensioner, idler pulley, and belt. Replaced everything this morning -- hardest part of the job was fitting the new belt in place. I think both old tensioners and the idler pulley were original (2000 model year truck) -- serpentine tensioner pulley was a bit sloppy and a little rough spinning; idler pulley bearing was rough; A/C tensioner bearing was frozen solid and the pulley was bent at an angle.
Everything works smoothly and quietly now. A/C works normally. Hope that the bad bearings were all that it was, and I don't have any more significant A/C issues.
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07-06-2018, 02:05 PM #575
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