Results 2,301 to 2,325 of 5831
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02-23-2021, 09:12 AM #2301
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02-23-2021, 09:26 AM #2302yelgatgab
- Join Date
- Oct 2002
- Location
- Shadynasty's Jazz Club
- Posts
- 10,248
Any reason not to use an extractor?
Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.
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02-23-2021, 09:34 AM #2303
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02-23-2021, 10:07 AM #2304
It would take 10 seconds with a torch, if I have handy I'll use one but it only takes a minute to drill them out
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02-23-2021, 10:13 AM #2305
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02-23-2021, 10:28 AM #2306yelgatgab
- Join Date
- Oct 2002
- Location
- Shadynasty's Jazz Club
- Posts
- 10,248
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02-23-2021, 10:40 AM #2307
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02-23-2021, 10:41 AM #2308
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02-23-2021, 10:59 AM #2309Registered User
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- PNW
- Posts
- 764
I've had good luck with easy outs. Might be worth a shot. Use the biggest size you can.
The broken bolt may have been made brittle by prolonged heat exposure and I would not necessarily assume it's rusted in.
The "burning it out" idea sounds like a potential disaster. Heating it up a bit to loosen it is probably fine.
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02-23-2021, 11:21 AM #2310
Have you done this with success?
I have no experience with the OA torch, but neighbor does, so I'd ask him to do it, if it is really that quick and easy.
For those saying it's a pathway to disaster and just drill: have you tried burning out a bolt and had it go badly? Or is this more of a general concern of "this sounds like a bad idea" -?
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02-23-2021, 11:48 AM #2311
Torching seized bolts is nothing new. It's fast and effective if done properly. I think the risk is unskilled application also melting the surrounding material.
How's the new truck search going?
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02-23-2021, 11:48 AM #2312
Never had one go bad, but you have to be real careful if you're burning something that attaches thin steel (like a valve cover). If your neighbor is good with a torch it won't be a problem, you'll be left with a clean hole. If he doesn't really know how to use a torch you may end up with a blob in the hole that's hard to remove with a punch and needs that needs to be retapped.
honestly I'd just drill it, it really doesn't matter if your off center, as soon as you get close to the threads the stud will relax and come right out. You may have tap it with a sharp chisel but it will come right out.
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02-23-2021, 12:14 PM #2313Registered User
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Posts
- 2,274
I've never torched one but sounds good to me. I was almost happy if it was only one fucked bolt on exhaust manifolds. I'm also usually impatient and pissed off when doing bolt extraction and have never had much luck with ez-outs etc on seized bolts. Not saying it doesnt happen but when that fucks up you're right back to drilling and its twice as much of a PITA..
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02-23-2021, 01:18 PM #2314
I'm going to try drilling some more this afternoon, and if I don't get anywhere, will go see about the torch.
On the new truck search: I spent some time researching and reading up on Ford forums. I can sign up for Ford "x plan" pricing (a little under invoice) by joining a Mustang club for $25. I'm trying to get a "personalized cash offer" (PCO), which Ford apparently does regularly for $2500-3000. It's basically a personal incentive and stacks with x plan or other discounted pricing.
I can order exactly what I want for about $43K invoice, so if I can knock off some more via other incentives, then I'll do that. Some of the options I want don't seem to be typical dealer inventory, and they're fairly cheap from the factory - like camper package.
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02-23-2021, 08:00 PM #2315
I hate this fucking project...
4.5 hours later, removed stripped bolt by grinding a notch into the ear of that EGR mount on the exhaust manifold, and cutting into the bolt. Went through a couple of Dremel discs.
Everything is mounted back in place except for the hole that had the broken bolt. I have a bolt and nut ready to install, it fits, but I was struggling with getting a wrench on the backside to hold the nut and get it started. It was getting cold and dark. Called it a day.
What would help is if I can find a nut on a metal strip - sort of like this, but on a longer strip:
https://www.allmetalssupply.com/wp-c...OT-TAB-NUT.jpg
I've had these come with trailer hitches (though those are much larger nuts) and I think with car stereo kits. Need to go dig around at an auto parts store.
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02-23-2021, 08:24 PM #2316
A torch doesn’t take “10 seconds” to get a manifold exhaust side stud burned out. You have to get everything good and hot before you hit the oxy and start cutting. It’s an art, not something I’d recommend a DIY tackle. You also would want to get any O2 sensors out of the way, they don’t like that kind of heat. When I was a tech earning a living in Michigan using a torch was a necessary skill, not so much here in Utah.
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02-23-2021, 08:24 PM #2317
Get a piece of bar stock and tap a hole in it?
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02-23-2021, 08:32 PM #2318
@Chup No doubt you'll get the bolt tomorrow in the light. The new truck plan sounds legit. Had not heard about PCOs.
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02-23-2021, 08:32 PM #2319Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Posts
- 3,269
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02-23-2021, 08:43 PM #2320
A 3/8 mini impact will usually get the job done if you can get the nut on the bolt with fingers. The mini impact will spin it fast enough to let inertia tighten it.
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02-23-2021, 08:56 PM #2321
I think I know what will get me enough space: there's a heat shield that bolts onto the outside of the exhaust manifold, and the EGR pipe runs through it. I put the shield back on before trying to attach the EGR pipe to the manifold - and I think the heat shield is partially blocking me from getting a wrench in place to hold the nut. I think i can unbolt the heat shield and slide it over enough to give me access space.
Thanks for the continued input, everyone.
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02-23-2021, 09:36 PM #2322
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02-23-2021, 09:39 PM #2323
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02-23-2021, 09:47 PM #2324
If you're getting a cast iron manifold "good and hot" you stand a good chance of cracking it, I'm sure you're familiar with with that.
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02-23-2021, 09:50 PM #2325
This is why I generally don’t post in this thread.
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