Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

**Timberridge** · 12-01-2022, 09:09 AM

For Austin...(Al from Happy Days @3:30)

**MontuckyFried** · 12-01-2022, 02:06 PM

Originally Posted by fatnslow

Defeated for a second attempt on the serp belt tensioner. Had a bit of time this afternoon and ended up shearing off the lower hex of a hydraulic tensioner. I guess I'll be cutting the MF'ing belt and replacing it along with the alternator. Been a minute since what I thought would be an easy repair turns into this much of a challenge. My guess is it's the original unit and after 17 years and 200k miles the hydraulic cylinder or the pivot point is seized.

Welcome to my world, bro. ...Welcome to my world. (and gravity's) Best of luck with the project.

**Art Shirk** · 12-01-2022, 11:17 PM

Fuck me. Can someone tell me how hosed I may be here before my mechanic does? Ran into town today and drove the B6 S4 Avant. It doesn’t get a lot of road time and it snowed so it was perfect for a jaunt.

No aggressive driving or anything on the trip. 15 mins into trip I stopped at a stop sign and was in neutral. Went back to shift to 1st and it basically hit a wall and couldn’t get into gear. Car has enough torque so no prob starting from 2nd and moved into 2nd no prob.

Continued driving and found that 1-3-5 were all the same and couldnt shift into them. 2-4-6 were fine.

Drove to store and back with gears I had. If it’s linkage or bushings or something does this sound like a major deal? Something far worse or dropping a tranny?

Since you basically have to remove the engine in old Audis to replace the blinker fluid, I’m expecting that I may need to raid the kids’ 529s

Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

**highangle** · 12-02-2022, 01:14 AM

Sounds like linkage, Art, or maybe a throw-out bearing or synchro? But wtf do I know about Audis?...
We can assume you're googling the shit out of this, right? It's prolly nbd to flop under there and inspect ur shifter linkage, and you can prob find a pic of what it's supposed to look like.

**warthog** · 12-02-2022, 06:37 AM

As weird as it sounds, there is hope in the fact that you are missing half of them.
That points to something fairly simple to fix.
Now finding what that something is...

THAT's where they make their $$.

**Timberridge** · 12-02-2022, 07:41 AM

It's just a 3 speed now, no biggie.

This sounds like one for Aldo.

Btw. This is a ZF HP6 tranny? So I assume you've never had your "lifetime" fluid changed?

**simple** · 12-02-2022, 08:50 AM

There is a lever on the transmission that swings back and forth from neutral. Sounds like it is going one direction only. Could be the cable or it could be that lever. Definitely not throw out bearing that controls the clutch plate

**east or bust** · 12-02-2022, 09:11 AM

Anyone ever change LCAs on a Subaru Outback? Year is 2012.

My GF took her car in for an oil leak and the shop does a complimentary inspection of the entire vehicle. Front lowers are on their last leg, they have pics and are correct about this. However, the shop is quoting $740 in labor to replace them. I watched a youtube video and am missing how this is a complicated job at all, especially with a lift and the right tools.

I'm partial to tackling this myself, is there anything specific I should know? I should mention I have a fair bit of experience wrenching on my own stuff, just never done this job in particular.

eta: also quoted $280/ea for Duralast LCAs. I can find a set online for $250...

**simple** · 12-02-2022, 09:57 AM

I've never found a control arm install to be challenging unless I had to press bushings. If they are pre installed it is pretty easy.

**El Chupacabra** · 12-02-2022, 10:01 AM

Originally Posted by east or bust

Anyone ever change LCAs on a Subaru Outback? Year is 2012.

My GF took her car in for an oil leak and the shop does a complimentary inspection of the entire vehicle. Front lowers are on their last leg, they have pics and are correct about this. However, the shop is quoting $740 in labor to replace them. I watched a youtube video and am missing how this is a complicated job at all, especially with a lift and the right tools.

I'm partial to tackling this myself, is there anything specific I should know? I should mention I have a fair bit of experience wrenching on my own stuff, just never done this job in particular.

eta: also quoted $280/ea for Duralast LCAs. I can find a set online for $250...

Not Subaru specific, but for any control arm replacement: do not fully tighten bolts on any control arm bushing mounts until the weight of the vehicle is on the tire (on the ground - not on a lift or jack stands).

**MontuckyFried** · 12-02-2022, 10:22 AM

Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

Not Subaru specific, but for any control arm replacement: do not fully tighten bolts on any control arm bushing mounts until the weight of the vehicle is on the tire (on the ground - not on a lift or jack stands).

Not doubting you, but how would I fully tighten the bolts on the ground if there's no clearance? There is NO way I could squeeze even my arm into the right place on my C30 to accomplish that, let alone an impact or torque wrench, if it were back on the ground.

**hawkgt** · 12-02-2022, 10:22 AM

Originally Posted by east or bust

Front lowers are on their last leg, they have pics and are correct about this. However, the shop is quoting $740 in labor to replace them.

Whats the shop rate? I was thinking 4-5 hrs for the job which is $185 - $148 hr. Not bad considering. Dig on line and you can find hrs quoted for the job per the book.

Guess all depends on home work space and tools really for you.

**MontuckyFried** · 12-02-2022, 10:23 AM

Originally Posted by Timberridge

For Austin...(Al from Happy Days @3:30)

HA! That was fun. Some great ads in there.

**Timberridge** · 12-02-2022, 10:30 AM

Originally Posted by MontuckyFried

Not doubting you, but how would I fully tighten the bolts on the ground if there's no clearance? There is NO way I could squeeze even my arm into the right place on my C30 to accomplish that, let alone an impact or torque wrench, if it were back on the ground.

You need a 4 post lift, ramps, or to load up a corner with another floor jack. I parked a car on a curb once to work underneath.

E or B, if that Subie is a rusty mess underneath, you may wish you paid a shop to do it. Getting those lower bolts off can be a chore. Make sure the price includes an alignment.

**fatnslow** · 12-02-2022, 10:32 AM

Originally Posted by MontuckyFried

Not doubting you, but how would I fully tighten the bolts on the ground if there's no clearance? There is NO way I could squeeze even my arm into the right place on my C30 to accomplish that, let alone an impact or torque wrench, if it were back on the ground.

You just need to get creative to load the control arm with weight of the car by jacking up around the ball joint or brake disc area.

**El Chupacabra** · 12-02-2022, 10:33 AM

Originally Posted by Timberridge

You need a 4 post lift, ramps, or to load up a corner with another floor jack.

This.

**Timberridge** · 12-02-2022, 10:47 AM

Or you can get a lift kit.

I think for the home DIY'r a good set of ramps is a must have---you can't get to everything but I've done a lot of shit with just ramps.

**Todd Zander** · 12-02-2022, 11:08 AM

Originally Posted by MontuckyFried

Not doubting you, but how would I fully tighten the bolts on the ground if there's no clearance? There is NO way I could squeeze even my arm into the right place on my C30 to accomplish that, let alone an impact or torque wrench, if it were back on the ground.

You get poly bushing replacements and tighten them in whatever position your heart desires.

**east or bust** · 12-02-2022, 11:29 AM

Appreciate the feedback

I have a bunch of jack stands so was planning to get the vehicle up on them and use the floor jack method to get proper alignment on the LCA before tightening. The video I watched actually mentioned you basically can't get the rear bolt in without doing this.

**Timberridge** · 12-02-2022, 11:34 AM

Good luck and hit those bolts with plenty of wd-40 and let sit for a while before starting.

**fatnslow** · 12-02-2022, 11:57 AM

You need to be a strong MF'er or have an assortment of pipes, and breaker bars. Some of the bolts can be a nightmare with odd angles to reach and a decade of corrosion unless you have air tools or a high quality cordless torque wrench. Maybe a ball joint splitter on hand as well.

**El Chupacabra** · 12-02-2022, 02:25 PM

Originally Posted by Todd Zander

You get poly bushing replacements and tighten them in whatever position your heart desires.

My experience with poly bushings on Jeeps has me very reluctant to ever use them again. Squeaky (even if greasable), harsh riding, transmit more road chatter.

**east or bust** · 12-02-2022, 03:24 PM

Originally Posted by fatnslow

You need to be a strong MF'er or have an assortment of pipes, and breaker bars. Some of the bolts can be a nightmare with odd angles to reach and a decade of corrosion unless you have air tools or a high quality cordless torque wrench. Maybe a ball joint splitter on hand as well.

Yea really wish I had a 1/2" impact for jobs exactly like this

**Mazderati** · 12-02-2022, 03:28 PM

Look up South Main Auto on YT. He may have a video that shows the pain points.

**Touring_Sedan** · 12-02-2022, 03:30 PM

Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

My experience with poly bushings on Jeeps has me very reluctant to ever use them again. Squeaky (even if greasable), harsh riding, transmit more road chatter.

So you're saying it rides like a Jeep?