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  1. #5126
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    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    You sure? Solenoids are usually right there when you pull the pan off.
    Yeah there are 2 pans, the one facing the radiator, under the battery tray and behind the trans cooler lines has to come off. Then the solenoid pack is held on with 21 bolts and has 2 plugs that tend to break when you touch them and a tensioner that has to be gently sprung. Bottom line is it needs to come out if you want it to take less than 10 hours. Shops won't touch it because the labor is significantly less to just replace the whole unit.

    Not long ago a low mile, guaranteed used could be had for $2k installed, now it's closer to 3k for an ~80k unit with only a 5k mile guarantee. Properly rebuilt with the factory problems solved with a 12k warranty and programming is $4k out the door. I figure since I can't replace the van for 4k and I'm already into it for the actual replacement price I should just bend over and take it. Thoughts?
    Last edited by gravitylover; 05-24-2023 at 07:26 PM. Reason: Clarity at the end

  2. #5127
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    Anyone here used exhaust manifold repair clamps? The kind that bracket the manifold flange and use other holes in the engine block to press down and hold the manifold flange in place. Like this:

    https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-917-14...s%2C222&sr=8-2

    My new to me 2005 GMC Sierra has one of these clamps on the driver's side rear exhaust manifold already, and I noticed that the passenger manifold is missing the rearmost bolt, along with the next bolt on series forward. Thinking I should address this sooner than later. Broken exhaust manifold bolts are a common problem area on these engines.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  3. #5128
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    Apr 2004
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    I've made similar adapters for other purposes and they've always been successful enough.

  4. #5129
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    Aug 2005
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    Too far East, far too often.
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    787
    8 gallon oil change yesterday and got 6 of the 7 filters done. Bent the wrench and cut up my hands trying to get the last one off and it's still stuck. Ran out of time and will have to go at it again with a new filter wrench and some kind of pipe/persuader over the handle to get it to turn.

    It's a fuel filter but looks like your standard oil filter and, of course, is hidden behind all kids of pipes. lines, and wires. Last year, the old gasket stuck on there and I didn't notice, so when I put the new one on and was accelerating out of the harbor it started pissing diesel fuel all over the engine room and I probably compensated by cranking it down too hard when I figured out the issue and reinstalled it.

    Moral of the story, check for your old gaskets when changing filters. I've been doing oil changes for over 30 years and somehow forgot last Spring. Glad it was fuel and not oil or I would have had a $25k engine rebuild to do.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tromano View Post
    Apathy is harder for me to understand than passion.

  5. #5130
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    Sep 2010
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    ^^
    Now THAT'S wrenchin!!! Hopefully you buy that Rotella by the barrel. At least when I used to change oil on heavy equipment, the drums worked out to be a good deal cheaper per unit.

    Tell us more about your vessel!

  6. #5131
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    Aug 2005
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    Pales in comparison to what you've been working on!

    Ugh, I debate buying by the barrel, but then I would use the oil exchanger that pumps the oil out to suck it back in and I worry that just puts all the sludge I sucked down the hose back into the sump. Because there's no way I am going to try getting that bucket into the oil fill up top. I have a hard enough time keeping it clean by the gallon.
    Gallons were like $20-25 this year, so yeah, that's $200 in oil, which is still the cheapest thing it needs, relatively speaking.

    I forget what thread I put pics in, but she's a 1998 Tiara 3500 running twin Cummins turbocharged mechanical 370hp 6BTAs. A very efficient mile per gallon or gallon per mile, makes the maths easy...

    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    ^^
    Now THAT'S wrenchin!!! Hopefully you buy that Rotella by the barrel. At least when I used to change oil on heavy equipment, the drums worked out to be a good deal cheaper per unit.

    Tell us more about your vessel!
    Last edited by BCR; 05-25-2023 at 07:23 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by tromano View Post
    Apathy is harder for me to understand than passion.

  7. #5132
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCR View Post
    Pales in comparison to what you've been working on!
    Thanks! But I dunno. I don't have an engine ROOM. That's pretty sweet. I can just hear those twin Cummins purring now.

    Quote Originally Posted by BCR View Post
    Ugh, I debate buying by the barrel, but then I would use the oil exchanger that pumps the oil out to suck it back in and I worry that just puts all the sludge I sucked down the hose back into the sump. Because there's no way I am going to try getting that bucket into the oil fill up top. I have a hard enough time keeping it clean by the gallon.
    Gallons were like $20-25 this year, so yeah, that's $200 in oil, which is still the cheapest thing it needs, relatively speaking.
    Oh man. That IS cheap. And yeah, at that rate, it would probably be cheaper than the barrels. We used to get the drums wholesale from a local supplier. Not sure what they run these days.

    Quote Originally Posted by BCR View Post
    I forget what thread I put pics in, but she's a 1998 Tiara 3500 running twin Cummins turbocharged mechanical 370hp 6BTAs. A very efficient mile per gallon or gallon per mile, makes the maths easy...
    Niiiiiice. Bet that thing hauls ass and probably some good range, huh? Do you use it mostly for deep sea fishing?

  8. #5133
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mustonen View Post
    Seems like a reasonable place to put this:

    I have a 2013 Audi allroad with 150k on the clock. Drove ~500 miles to a work thing. About halfway there it started to misfire under hard-ish acceleration or when maintaining speed up a hill at 80mph (~2,200 rpm).

    - this happened within a couple minutes of filling up. Bad gas?

    - it feels super similar to when I had a bad coil in the same car. Difference being with the coil it cleaned up at higher RPM but here it gets a lot worse at higher RPM.

    - at first I revved it because of course. It threw an EPC light but no check engine. I struggled it over to a gravel lot off an exit with a super rough idle and checked all the coils and cables and looked at it for a while and clucked my tongue. When I started it again the EPC was cleared and the rough idle was gone. (Limp mode?) Eventually it threw the check engine but the EPC has not come back.

    - When I got to town (Detroit) it was just fine cruising around town as long as I stayed out of the turbo. It also had no problem getting up to 90 as long as I babied it up there.

    So what to do? Find a local shop or dealer that I don’t trust to pull codes and fix it and hope that the whole thing doesn’t add a night to my stay? Go to autozone and have them pull codes and try replacing a coil/plugs in their parking lot with their tools? Just limp her on home?

    What say ye?
    Ran a can of seafoam through on the way home. Things did not improve. Stopped at a couple auto parts stores on the way home, but neither were autozone and neither had an ODB2 scanner.

    Stopped by the local auto zone after work today. Cylinder 3 misfire. Bought a coil and a plug and pulled them when I got home.

    The coil had lots of gunk at the bottom. Seems the seal on the plug didn’t hold up. Not sure if the gunky shit killed the coil, but seems reasonable to surmise. In any event, $30 and 15 minutes and we are back in business. I have a cheap code reader from Amazon on the way to clear the CEL.
    focus.

  9. #5134
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    ^^^ Good job. It's rewarding to fix that stuff yourself, for cheap. And now you'll have a code reader for any future issues.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  10. #5135
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    Mar 2012
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    The Bull City
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    I bought a code reader because the auto parts store wasn't pulling codes during the worst part of COVID. $50 well spent for sure.
    Go that way really REALLY fast. If something gets in your way, TURN!

  11. #5136
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    Oct 2002
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    my own little world
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    Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

    The other shops were copping attitude about it. Like “why would we do that?”

    Whatever. Joke’s on them. I didn’t make it rain three $10 bills in their store.
    focus.

  12. #5137
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Meiss Meadows
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    Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

    WHY did i not buy this tool many years ago?

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    Good news. One inner pad had the hardware…?
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  13. #5138
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    Since I got a cordless impact, I haven't used my air impact. It's great.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  14. #5139
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driven way past the Stop and Shop
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    3,067
    Quote Originally Posted by Mustonen View Post
    Ran a can of seafoam through on the way home. Things did not improve. Stopped at a couple auto parts stores on the way home, but neither were autozone and neither had an ODB2 scanner.

    Stopped by the local auto zone after work today. Cylinder 3 misfire. Bought a coil and a plug and pulled them when I got home.

    The coil had lots of gunk at the bottom. Seems the seal on the plug didn’t hold up. Not sure if the gunky shit killed the coil, but seems reasonable to surmise. In any event, $30 and 15 minutes and we are back in business. I have a cheap code reader from Amazon on the way to clear the CEL.
    If the plug and coil were the source of your troubles the CEL should clear itself after a drive cycle or two but the code readers worth having anyway.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  15. #5140
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    Sep 2010
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    Tejas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustonen View Post
    Ran a can of seafoam through on the way home. Things did not improve. Stopped at a couple auto parts stores on the way home, but neither were autozone and neither had an ODB2 scanner.

    Stopped by the local auto zone after work today. Cylinder 3 misfire. Bought a coil and a plug and pulled them when I got home.

    The coil had lots of gunk at the bottom. Seems the seal on the plug didn’t hold up. Not sure if the gunky shit killed the coil, but seems reasonable to surmise. In any event, $30 and 15 minutes and we are back in business. I have a cheap code reader from Amazon on the way to clear the CEL.
    Great! Good job. Now that your Audi is getting to this age, you're going to be really glad to have the scan tool around. Just make sure it's VAG-COM capable. Really opens things up for a VW/Audi product.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  16. #5141
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    Sep 2010
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    [QUOTE=powdrhound;6867690]WHY did i not buy this tool many years ago?

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    Game changer, huh? That Milwaukee is a BEAST! I love mine. On the last job, I ended up also adding a stubby 3/8" wrench to the arsenal. Not near as powerful but good enough for most things and can get in tighter spots. The big 1/2" is my go-to though for sure.


    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  17. #5142
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    5,013
    I like my electric wratchet more than the impact

    Huge time saver for projects like taking the seats or dash out

  18. #5143
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    12,565
    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    I like my electric wratchet more than the impact

    Huge time saver for projects like taking the seats or dash out
    I've got a few of those and they are great. I do find it weird that you still have to switch the ratchet direction at the head like an old school ratchet. You'd think it would be an easier switch or button by now right? Oh well.

  19. #5144
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    2,459
    I got the high torque PBLIW01B Ryobi. It delivers. Maybe a bit too strong, I think I need something between it and my M12 hex impact.

    I never got the electric ratchets.

  20. #5145
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Almost Mountains
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    Quote Originally Posted by Name Redacted View Post
    I've got a few of those and they are great. I do find it weird that you still have to switch the ratchet direction at the head like an old school ratchet. You'd think it would be an easier switch or button by now right? Oh well.
    I picked up the 3/8 and 1/4" DeWalt 12V ratchets largely because once I got the electric impact, I was finding myself using it in places that weren't really ideal for an impact, but because it was quicker and easier than having to swing a ratchet.

    Then I swapped bumper shells and realized that the ratchet is an incredible efficiency gain so long as I have room to use it. Being able to spin a fastener to snug with the button and then manually turn the ratchet to finish tightening works sooo smoothly. I do wish there was a higher tooth count, but you can still swing the ratchet handle a short distance and then hit the power button to take the slack out.

  21. #5146
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    The Mayonnaisium
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    10,467
    I have a set of Michelins on an older sedan. They were reviewed well when purchased but it would take two hands to count the number of punctures in the fucking things. Tonight was the first time I couldn't limp it to my destination and had to grab the donut. Ready for the mud terrains.

  22. #5147
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    It's not working on cars but I used stuff I have for cars. I was putting up a new over the toilet shelf thing and went to drill the hole for a wall anchor. It was tougher than expected so I figured I hit a nail in a stud or something so I swapped to a new bit. It worked great! Unfortunately it came out with steel shavings more like from a pipe of some sort. There was no evidence of anything from inside so I went outside and what do I see? The vent pipe. Yup, drilled a hole in the fkn thing

    JB Weld to the rescue

  23. #5148
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    Mar 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCR View Post
    8 gallon oil change yesterday and got 6 of the 7 filters done. Bent the wrench and cut up my hands trying to get the last one off and it's still stuck. Ran out of time and will have to go at it again with a new filter wrench and some kind of pipe/persuader over the handle to get it to turn.

    It's a fuel filter but looks like your standard oil filter and, of course, is hidden behind all kids of pipes. lines, and wires. Last year, the old gasket stuck on there and I didn't notice, so when I put the new one on and was accelerating out of the harbor it started pissing diesel fuel all over the engine room and I probably compensated by cranking it down too hard when I figured out the issue and reinstalled it.

    Moral of the story, check for your old gaskets when changing filters. I've been doing oil changes for over 30 years and somehow forgot last Spring. Glad it was fuel and not oil or I would have had a $25k engine rebuild to do.

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    I once saw a friend pound a big screwdriver THROUGH a stuck oil filter and use that to twist it off. However, if that doesn't work and just shreds the filter you're back to trying to remove the remnants of what used to be an oil filter and unable to drive it until you can.
    Go that way really REALLY fast. If something gets in your way, TURN!

  24. #5149
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Granite, UT
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    2,280
    Quote Originally Posted by SumJongGuy View Post
    I once saw a friend pound a big screwdriver THROUGH a stuck oil filter and use that to twist it off. However, if that doesn't work and just shreds the filter you're back to trying to remove the remnants of what used to be an oil filter and unable to drive it until you can.
    Jesus. If your filter is so tight that wrenching it off with a screwdriver pounded through it at a right angle isn't working you've got bigger problems than the remains of a filter.

  25. #5150
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    Aug 2005
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    Too far East, far too often.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SumJongGuy View Post
    I once saw a friend pound a big screwdriver THROUGH a stuck oil filter and use that to twist it off. However, if that doesn't work and just shreds the filter you're back to trying to remove the remnants of what used to be an oil filter and unable to drive it until you can.
    Had to go that route on an old truck once that a prior owner had gone a little overboard with. Was saving that for a last resort here, but the below "persuader" that I put together took care of it. Made sure was at the correct tightness this year and accounted for all the gaskets.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tromano View Post
    Apathy is harder for me to understand than passion.

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