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  1. #2901
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    LV-426
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    21,125
    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    Dude spends more time on an "online estimate" than just calling a shop or three for an "actual" estimate. Ask per wheel price. You don't need all four. I would be embarrassed if I was a kid watching his dad fumble through basic auto maintenance. College is gonna be free soon why save the money for it? Lol
    Shocks should be replaced in pairs, if not all four. Ditto for spring replacement, but that's less commonly needed.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  2. #2902
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5,013
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Shocks should be replaced in pairs, if not all four. Ditto for spring replacement, but that's less commonly needed.
    Agreed.

    Anyway you might find used take offs available as well. I tore some units from a Subaru at the junkyard once. Worked fine. Like this...dude. lol

    https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/...383277528.html

  3. #2903
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driven way past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    3,068
    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    Subaru are $100 per corner. This guy is just a basic car driver. Any auto shop can swap a MacPherson strut for cheap. 4 or 5 bolts and if done correctly you don't even need an alignment.
    Beg to differ. Do 09 Forester front struts and you are going to need an alignment unless you are the luckiest sumbitch to ever turn a wrench and happen to hit the sweet spot on both the L and R struts.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  4. #2904
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driven way past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    3,068
    And running with blown shocks? I’ve replaced broken rear springs on an 05 Prius and an 07 outback. Knee bone is connected to the thigh bone, etc.

    And the 14 - 16 Foresters had a recall on rear shocks so all their spring strut components are little suspect to my way of thinking.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  5. #2905
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,858
    Quote Originally Posted by Obstruction View Post
    ...you are going to need an alignment unless you are the luckiest sumbitch to ever turn a wrench and happen to hit the sweet spot on both the L and R struts.
    That's what I'm planning on. Getting an alignment's no biggie though, so I'm good with that.

  6. #2906
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    I actually have a good shop who treats me fairly on items I don't want to tackle. Unfortunately not the problem with this one. It's something only the dealer can do supposedly. I've even called every single Euro shop in town and they mirrored what my guy said. For a few particular items that have to be VIN matched, sadly the only main option is to go to dealer, where they know they have you by the balls for that particular thing. It's on this thing, the ICM (infotainment control module), and the ECU pretty much that are dealer only for programming.

    Another route I'd be tempted to go is to get an old laptop I could dedicate to it, buy the interface link, pirate the dealer software, and go about it myself. Seen some success for people on the Volvo forums, but it ends up costing like twice as much as just letting them program and not sure how often I'll ever need that. Maybe if I started collecting V70Rs someday, I'd totally do that!!!

    I could be wrong, though. Would LOVE for someone here with more Swedish experience to school me on this topic, but forums seem to mostly point to it kind of being a dealer only resolution.
    You should sniff around Matthews Volvo site and see if anyone has a cline of dealer SW that can run what you need. Is this for an steering angle sensor replacement ?

  7. #2907
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    The Bull City
    Posts
    14,003
    I'm anti strut. It's all a conspiracy for the New World Order. Fauci was wrong about this one

    Seriously though, it's not noticeable unless going really slow over a speed bump. Been that way for at least 5 years now.

    Now when the struts blew in my 81 Scirocco the wheel bearings and CB boots quickly followed. Had to replace all of that.

    Yer gonna die!!
    Go that way really REALLY fast. If something gets in your way, TURN!

  8. #2908
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5,013
    Quote Originally Posted by Obstruction View Post
    Beg to differ. Do 09 Forester front struts and you are going to need an alignment unless you are the luckiest sumbitch to ever turn a wrench and happen to hit the sweet spot on both the L and R struts.
    A paint pen goes a long way to getting it back in the right spot

  9. #2909
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driven way past the Stop and Shop
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    3,068
    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    A paint pen goes a long way to getting it back in the right spot
    I hear you but it All depends on your goal I guess. I use the paint pen to get it close enough to drive to the alignment shop.

  10. #2910
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    465
    Quote Originally Posted by mattig View Post
    Can't get it with a magnet retrieval tool? I use those things more than I'd care to admit.
    I would if I even knew where it was. Straight up sock into another dryer dimension shit.

  11. #2911
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,858
    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    A paint pen goes a long way to getting it back in the right spot
    What's this paint pen trick now?
    [furiously taking notes]

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  12. #2912
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    2,100
    mark the knuckle where the strut is bolted before unbolting

  13. #2913
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    Sep 2010
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    Tejas
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcphee View Post
    mark the knuckle where the strut is bolted before unbolting
    Most excellent. Thanks! Shows what I know. Haven't done struts before but bout to tackle 4 sets.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  14. #2914
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,007
    That really only applies to removing the putting back the SAME strut though, it will get you close however and for some thats good enough

  15. #2915
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Tejas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Zander View Post
    That really only applies to removing the putting back the SAME strut though, it will get you close however and for some thats good enough
    Ohhh. SO with new struts, I don't have to worry about that? I can just swap and plan on going to get an alignment done? Can I just pop off bolts with abandon?

  16. #2916
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    2,100
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Zander View Post
    That really only applies to removing the putting back the SAME strut though, it will get you close however and for some thats good enough
    no. replacement struts are going to be similar enough even if aftermarket. marking the knuckle gets you close enough to drive to the alignment shop, not close enough to say "job's done".

  17. #2917
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5,013
    Yeah true. I'm used to rebuilding coilovers where the same mount is reused. You can get it pretty dialed if you measure the mark accurately off a reference point and transfer to the new strut. I always get an alignment but if I can't get there soon after strut install I don't worry about it if I'm driving it around.

    All this discussion on alignment is about the eccentric or tabbed bolt that is usually used on a MacPherson strut BTW for those reading who don't know what we are talking about. It's rotation affects camber.

  18. #2918
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,858
    Also just got back from the dealer to program my new steering column lock. Color me shocked, but they actually did it without putting up a fight. Did exactly what I asked them to with no fuss, no muss. Car's starting no prob now.

    Bit of background, which I might have talked about before, was that to replace said lock, they gave me an absurd quote. They wanted to charge me DOUBLE dealer MSRP for the part (like $340 for a $170 part). And then they wanted to charge me like 4-6 hours labor (at $179/hour). PLUS up to 2 hours of programming (also at $179/hour). They said it'd be around $1200-1600 depending on how much time it'd end up taking.

    Being that I had already removed the part to lube the mechanism up internally and put back, I knew what the job really entailed. It's literally just two m6 screws holding it in. Not hard. The original screws had no slots to remove them, which could make it a PITA, but I just made my own flathead slots with a dremel. Easy peasy. Took me a minute to dick with it all, but even then was no more than 1/2 hour total for the entire job A-Z, including the plastic shrouding and everything. For a skilled mechanic. Maybe 10 minutes. I replaced the screws with better ones, with proper phillips heads, so when I installed the new part, it took me all of like 2 minutes to swap, if that. Knowing what it took, I worked with like 3 service advisors there who all told me they'd have to charge for the whole shebang. Called other dealers in the state. Same story with all of them, except they weren't gonna rip me off on the part at least. I ended up buying the part through Volvo on their parts website and actually picked up at the dealer. For MSRP and even got 10% off on a "volvo parts sales event." Score.

    Anyway, it took me installing the part, setting the old aside (but still plugged in), for them to FINALLY allow me to bring it in for JUST the programming. I told them there was no work for the tech to do other than that. And yup. That's all it took. In and out. Geez, what a racket. I love Volvo cars, but I REALLY hate my local dealer. Sucks, because they were a truly great shop back in the 90s. Changed ownership since and that's that. If I get another geriatric Volvo, I might have to invest in a pirate dealer software setup, because working with them can be so ridiculous.

  19. #2919
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,858
    Quote Originally Posted by mcphee View Post
    no. replacement struts are going to be similar enough even if aftermarket. marking the knuckle gets you close enough to drive to the alignment shop, not close enough to say "job's done".
    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    Yeah true. I'm used to rebuilding coilovers where the same mount is reused. You can get it pretty dialed if you measure the mark accurately off a reference point and transfer to the new strut. I always get an alignment but if I can't get there soon after strut install I don't worry about it if I'm driving it around.

    All this discussion on alignment is about the eccentric or tabbed bolt that is usually used on a MacPherson strut BTW for those reading who don't know what we are talking about. It's rotation affects camber.
    Ok. Now I'm just confused. Guess I'll find out what you guys are talking about soon enough. Will come back here crying for help when I inevitably screw it up somehow. Haha.

  20. #2920
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5,013
    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    Ok. Now I'm just confused. Guess I'll find out what you guys are talking about soon enough. Will come back here crying for help when I inevitably screw it up somehow. Haha.
    There are a 100 YouTube videos on strut replacement along with 100 different personalities. I like a few of them. Chris fix seems to be popular

  21. #2921
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    4,996
    Getting ready to dive in tonight on control arm replacement on the old girl... haven't been under there for a while.

  22. #2922
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    8,401
    Does boat wrenching count? Had some sputtering/misfiring on the way out for a couple of days. Found this with the help of a better wrench than I. Of course it was the last plug pulled.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles View Post
    If I lived in WA, Oft would be my realtor. Seriously.

  23. #2923
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,737
    Successfully found a vacuum leak and recharged my AC using one of this DIY recharge bottles. Put in a small bottle with the dye in it first, just in case there is a leak. Nice cold AC just in time for the weather to start to cool down.

  24. #2924
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    So. VT
    Posts
    2,829
    Thought about removing the Xterra bumper for a quick coat of paint. Crawled under to put a breaker bar on the bolts.

    Came out with 5 feet of tailpipe instead.guess I found the exhaust leak. Fucking rust.

  25. #2925
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    In the shadow of the wasatch
    Posts
    4,116
    Injectors 5 and 6 on an 2000Merc E320 with 236K on the ticker. If it weren't for beer it'd be sitting but after a sixer noooo let's do this in the rain (halfway into the garage)

    Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
    Bunny Don't Surf

    Have you seen a one armed man around here?

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