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  1. #1551
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    3,840
    Just had it charged up by a buddy a few weeks ago.

    No power light turns on at all on this new charger.
    Needle doesn’t move.
    The online reviews are mixed, some say great, some say dead out of the box.
    Took it back.

    HF is popular around here figured a few people might have one.

  2. #1552
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Meiss Meadows
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    1,208
    I have a small mechanical problem now.

    A bit more than I want to fix myself.




    Z gave her all to protect us, and we both are ok.

    I hate Moments of Stupidity.


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  3. #1553
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    Quote Originally Posted by powdrhound View Post
    I have a small mechanical problem now.

    A bit more than I want to fix myself.




    Z gave her all to protect us, and we both are ok.

    I hate Moments of Stupidity.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Glad you're OK!

    I wouldn't have thought that little sign post could have done that much damage.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  4. #1554
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Watching over the valley
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    Haha, I was gonna make a sign post joke too. Glad you are ok.

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  5. #1555
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Salt Lake City
    Posts
    411
    Lower control arm bushings going bad on my Tacoma. Decided to replace the arms with new OEM ones that have the bushings and ball joints pressed in, ball joints were still ok but the truck has over 100,000 miles and is 15 years old. Anyway, the camber sleeves and toe alignment bolts were all seized, a bunch of sawzall blades, trip to NAPA for more sawzall blades, and more cutting got things out. Trucks back together, but before I get it aligned, should I put anti-seize or non-petroleum grease on the alignment sleeves/bolts?

  6. #1556
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    6,705
    Quote Originally Posted by powdrhound View Post
    I hate Moments of Stupidity.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    So you did it to yourself? Yeah I thought I'd outgrow doing dumb shit to myself but, at 53, it hasn't happened yet.

    How hard is it to change control arms and bushings on a 2nd gen Durango? The bushings in mine are shot and the thing squeaks really badly to the point where it's embarrassing. It also looks to me like it doesn't make sense to just do the lowers without doing the uppers at the same time. When it's apart is probably going to be the best time to change the front shocks too, right?

  7. #1557
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    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    6,705
    So am I heading down the ugly rabbit hole where it also makes sense to do the ball joints at the same time? I'm just thinking out loud, I haven't really looked at it too closely yet.

  8. #1558
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driving past the Stop and Shop
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    2,896
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    So am I heading down the ugly rabbit hole where it also makes sense to do the ball joints at the same time? I'm just thinking out loud, I haven't really looked at it too closely yet.
    Not sure about your Gen 2 Durango but in my 02 Dakota (same platform as the gen 1 Durango) the stock from the factory set up has the ball joints riveted onto the control arm. When you replace the ball joints without changing the control arms you have to drill the rivets out and buy bolt in aftermarket parts.

    Iím pretty sure most if not all gen 2 Durango control arms will come with theball joints installed (riveted on). So the good news is youíll get you 4 new ball joints and refresh all of the control arm bushings all at the same time.

    On the other haaaand... it seems to me that doing the upper control arms on these trucks would be a miserable whore of a job and you will need an alignment afterward. Expect beaucoup rust and stubborn nuts. Air or a beefy rechargeable impact would be desirable. Along with some of this shit:

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    Front Shocks were a piece of cake on the Dakota.

    Your actual results may differ.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  9. #1559
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    3,840
    I used one of those tire plug tools a couple days ago for the first time. Worked really well, highly recommend. Quite a bit easier than changing a truck tire, especially if I would have been off-road. Wasn’t, but just saying.
    That said still slow leaking.
    I watched a buddy do one with contact cement, I didn’t have any at the time. I have a fresh tube of dynaflex3000 silicone I was going to throw on various things outside the house and wondering if that would work just as well or no. Contact cement would be easier on the road versus this big caulk gun tube, but for here seems it should be good?

  10. #1560
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    The Garden State
    Posts
    2,966
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Crank position sensor, well done.....


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  11. #1561
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    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    6,705
    Eek

  12. #1562
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    Sep 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rideski View Post
    I used one of those tire plug tools a couple days ago for the first time. Worked really well, highly recommend. Quite a bit easier than changing a truck tire, especially if I would have been off-road. Wasnít, but just saying.
    That said still slow leaking.
    I watched a buddy do one with contact cement, I didnít have any at the time. I have a fresh tube of dynaflex3000 silicone I was going to throw on various things outside the house and wondering if that would work just as well or no. Contact cement would be easier on the road versus this big caulk gun tube, but for here seems it should be good?
    Don't use silicone on a tire plug. Rubber cement will work fine - the school type stuff, or the little tube in a bicycle patch kit.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  13. #1563
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    Sep 2006
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    3,840
    ^ well now ya tell me
    Already done, we’ll see what happens. Not too crazy worried about it.

    I had read online not to use rubber cement (which I do happen to have sitting here) so just called Discount tire to get a third opinion and he said they won’t touch a tire that has an amateur plug in it. Nice to know now. Guess if it doesn’t hold it’s one of the shady shops or throw a new one on.

    Despite all that, I was impressed with the tool though. Could definitely get you out of a tight spot in the hills till you could get to a good spot to put the spare in or all the way into town. And if I was to yank this plug out, pretty sure they would never know, I yanked the first one out and wasn’t much sign of it.


    But so anyway, why not silicone?

  14. #1564
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    Sep 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rideski View Post
    ^ well now ya tell me
    Already done, we’ll see what happens. Not too crazy worried about it.

    I had read online not to use rubber cement (which I do happen to have sitting here) so just called Discount tire to get a third opinion and he said they won’t touch a tire that has an amateur plug in it. Nice to know now. Guess if it doesn’t hold it’s one of the shady shops or throw a new one on.

    Despite all that, I was impressed with the tool though. Could definitely get you out of a tight spot in the hills till you could get to a good spot to put the spare in or all the way into town. And if I was to yank this plug out, pretty sure they would never know, I yanked the first one out and wasn’t much sign of it.


    But so anyway, why not silicone?
    IIRC, the rubber cement is supposed to vulcanize/ adhere the plug to the tire, and silicone caulk doesn't do that. I'm pretty sure I've also just stuffed in one of those sticky brown tire plug strings using Windex, or whatever was available as a lubricant, just to be able to fix the tire. They've all held just fine, including the one I did on the shoulder tread block of a newish tire -- i.e. exactly where a tire shop won't put a patch, but it was in the middle of a big tread block, so I decided to give it a try.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  15. #1565
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    3,840
    Yeah I think itís BS that the tire shop wonít touch it, mostly to sell new tires.
    Iím sure thereís a smidge of customer safety in there too.

    You can have a big ass bolt stuffed through the steel belt area and they fix it no problem. A tiny rubber plug 0h No!

    I hear you on the vulcanizing. Weíll see if this silicone one holds (it is 100% silicone, not silicone caulk) if not I have more contact cement on the way. Iím not sure craft type rubber cement does vulcanize.

  16. #1566
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Gates of Hell
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aldo View Post
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    Crank position sensor, well done.....


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Ugly.

    What are your thoughts on deleting EGT's on a street driven 2.7t? Passenger side shit the bed which put the engine into limp mode and severely limits boost. The $550 for a pair doesn't scare me nearly as much as the time and effort needed to replace the one on the drivers side. A friend gave me a set of delete plugs and bolts w copper washers to seal the probe holes on the down pipes. I can probably yank the existing sensors, plug in the delete resistors and fill the probe holes in under an hour, but will likely take me 3-4 hours to correctly r&r. Other option would be to run jumpers to the good sensor, so both banks get their readings from the good one.

    Stupid move or smart use of time and $?
    Going where the wind don't blow so strange
    Maybe on some high cold mountain range

  17. #1567
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    The Garden State
    Posts
    2,966
    you're still talking about this? allroad, what year? tip car?

  18. #1568
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    2,792
    an Audi? You should part it out. Not worth fixin...
    sigless.

  19. #1569
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    Apr 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aldo View Post
    you're still talking about this? allroad, what year? tip car?
    Yeah, the allroad - I still have it. Tomorrow will be 15 years to the day from when I bought it. Finally rolled 95,000 a few weeks ago, and CEL-itis has set in. A flex joint just let go too, but I know how to handle that. It's an 05, tip w/ BEL motor.
    Going where the wind don't blow so strange
    Maybe on some high cold mountain range

  20. #1570
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Gates of Hell
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    4,742
    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    an Audi? You should part it out. Not worth fixin...
    My wife already threatened to throw me out of the house if I part it out - she doesn't want a half disassembled car hanging around and me dragging parts in and out of the house and asking her to ship stuff. I'm also way too lazy.

    I'd sell it, but the KBB is like $1,500. With only 95k on the clock, it'll probably last another 15 years as a train station car so I'm keeping it.
    Going where the wind don't blow so strange
    Maybe on some high cold mountain range

  21. #1571
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    163
    I had deletes I purchased on Ebay put on my 02 Allroad. No problems, pretty sure the old sensors are still in there too, just no longer connected.

  22. #1572
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    YetiMan
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    10,765
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    The corrodibility of iron/steel relative to other metals is one of those things that makes me think maybe God does exist and his favorite pastime is fucking with people.
    We just drive them with rust in Michigan.

    No disrespect, srsly, but that kind of a little spot is nothing to worry about.

  23. #1573
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    10,696
    Quote Originally Posted by ill-advised strategy View Post
    We just drive them with rust in Michigan.

    No disrespect, srsly, but that kind of a little spot is nothing to worry about.
    Well, that is one of four (each corner). It's certainly not something that will impact driveability, probably ever, but it does bug me. I don't drive fancy vehicles, but rust buckets aren't really my style either. Got to nip that shit in the bud.

  24. #1574
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    Sep 2004
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    I finally completed my rust repair project on my 2000 GMC Sierra. Rust TR and lots of pics here:
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ve-rust-repair
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

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