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03-20-2021, 05:51 PM #2401Registered User
- Join Date
- Sep 2019
- Posts
- 218
My Gen 2 Tacoma’s transmission (6sp standard) just shit the bed.
Wife and are about to commit to mortgage and fairly boring short work commute in a sometimes snowy mtn community and I am set to largely quit my desert wanderings on the way out there badroads for at least a few years.
Here is the issue: I am 300 miles from home and I am wondering what says the collective: find a way to get the truck home and redo the trans myself, pay someone to do it “here” (no not literally here at the Westwater exit) or just let it go and do something like a used Leaf and rely on wifey Subaru for snowy day commutes.
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03-20-2021, 06:00 PM #2402
How handy are you? Being a MT truck, the job really should be fairly straight forward. A pain to do in the driveway without a lift and a transmission jack, but doable. Personally, I'd have it towed home. Do it yourself or pay a shop if you know someone. Drive it up to Bozeman, Montana and sell it to a rich Trustafarian pretending to be a legit ski bum for $$$$$.
How much is the tow gonna cost? I mean, I'm with ya on swapping to a vehicle that makes more sense for your life right now, but seems you'd be giving the truck away for nothing if you ditched it there in Timbuktu.
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03-20-2021, 06:36 PM #2403
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03-20-2021, 06:52 PM #2404
Define shit the bed.
Re & Re with a junkyard box is fairly straightforward, but opening it up is not for the faint of heart.
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03-20-2021, 06:55 PM #2405
Drive home switch on the road.
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03-20-2021, 10:58 PM #2406
Yeah specifics of what's wrong would be good. You're sure it's the transmission and not like a clutch related thing? Or driveshaft or rear diff? Or shift linkage? Do some but not all of the gears work? does it move in 4wd?
Usually a broken manual will have really grindy syncros or break one gear but still work well enough to move the car. Also, try 4th. I don't know the specifics of that transmission but on some 4th just directly connects the input and output shafts.
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03-21-2021, 04:28 AM #2407Registered User
- Join Date
- Sep 2019
- Posts
- 218
Appreciate the tips and suggestions. So hard to see the Old Silver hurtin’.
It will just barely move, independent of 2wd/4wd, rear tires spin fine in N so not likely rear diff. Gonna try the 4th gear trick (4th was the ticket for getting her to cell service) and if I can pull a code later ghis AM.
I really do NOT want a newer vehicle but this battling nonreliability gets old and a Leaf just sounds so nice and mellow for 95.9% of my driving.
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03-21-2021, 12:29 PM #2408
Depends how comfortable you are doing the work.
I wouldn't try and redo a trans yourself. Much easier to go buy a reman unit and do a remove and replace job. Turn in the old trans for a core charge.
I dropped the transmission and replaced the clutch on my old Dakota in my driveway with just hand tools and a regular car jack. But, I was broke and I am a glutton for punishment when it comes to car repair.
Go see about a U-haul rental cost and the cost for a reman trans plus new clutch and flywheel. See if that price in parts alone if worth your effort. It would be for me since I hate car payments and switching cars.
Also, are you sure it is the transmission that is bad? A manual doesn't just break like an automatic. Is your clutch pressure good? What happens if you try to move in reverse?
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03-23-2021, 05:58 PM #2409
Well, my water pump adventures on my Volvo so far are a total fail. Decided to finally take a crack at getting to it this evening. Coolant's leaking so I thought "Step 1: Drain coolant." Nope! Evidently in the infinite wisdom of some Swedish engineer, there is no drain plug, the hoses are a bitch to get to so I can't [easily] manually pull one and drain that way, and forums online say that it is intended to be evacuated/flushed using a machine. Sunnuva! I also noticed that the coolant on the floor seems slightly greasy which of course has me worried (could be from running across my splash guard and other dirty parts) but thought I'd check all fluid levels. Oil: Good. Transmission? Uhh, where the hell is it? Look up on forum. WHAT? NO TRANSMISSION DIP STICK? Only way you'll know without doing a full service is that you might get a warning on the info screen saying your trans fluid's low. Freaking great. Feeling a bit discouraged on this one so far. Praying to God I don't have a head gasket issue or anything. MAYBE oil or trans cooler. Maybe radiator (mine looks in rough shape). Maybe nothing. I hate to admit defeat, but this one might be getting towed to the shop if I can't even service my coolant. Forums say NOT to do the usual fill/run engine/fill method as it can destroy the engine. Some kind of check valve supposedly? Gotta use that damn machine.
Any Volvo experts here have any advice?
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03-23-2021, 06:04 PM #2410
Topsider vacuum pump and you can buy a trans dipstick.
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03-27-2021, 12:43 PM #2411
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03-27-2021, 01:17 PM #2412
Ouchie.
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03-27-2021, 01:32 PM #2413
I need to look more closely, but hopefully it’s like my TLC’s roof glass and it’s just 4 easily accessible bolts. The cars a Toyota Matrix.
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03-27-2021, 01:32 PM #2414
"Smashing"
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03-27-2021, 01:49 PM #2415
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03-27-2021, 03:05 PM #2416Registered User
- Join Date
- Apr 2004
- Location
- Southeast New York
- Posts
- 11,827
Haha
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03-27-2021, 04:45 PM #2417
Interestingly, you can’t see all the blood in my photo.... :P
Unclear if it was from a tree or off the big rig going the opposite direction at the same time. The rest of the roof seems untouched. Glad the forecast is mellow cuz it lives outside and we’re leaving town tomorrow morning for the week.
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03-27-2021, 04:56 PM #2418
Glad you’re not dead.
Ive never bought a car cover but seems you could get one pretty cheap for piece of mind?
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03-29-2021, 01:55 PM #2419
Thank goodness for car forums. My 318ti's gas and temp gauges stopped working the other day. Turns out they are on the circuit with the brake lights and that fuse blew. BMW inexplicably used a bit of the interior carpet with a whole in it to go over one of the brake light mounting studs and prevent it from contacting the bulb housing and shorting things out. It was a super easy fix: change fuse, replace carpet and electrical tape stud, put the bulbs back in. But I know I would have spent hours/days trying to figure out why the fuse kept blowing without the tip from someone who'd had the problem in the past.
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04-02-2021, 12:13 AM #2420
Just booked a uhaul trailer for a couple weekends from now. Gonna haul my 525iT to a friend's garage, throw the new-to-me ZF5 in, change some fluids, and haul the turd back. Hopefully in May some of you SLC types might see a dingy white E34 wagon on MPars mobbing around my hipster-lookin ass in it.
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04-06-2021, 10:54 AM #2421
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04-06-2021, 06:43 PM #2422
I don't know, that looks like a Toyota pickup, so I trust the guy makes sound decisions.
sent from Utah.sigless.
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04-12-2021, 09:37 PM #2423
100-series land cruiser. 4.7L uzj engine. 246k miles with under 70k on the engine (came out of a tundra).
Yesterday, driving from the ski hill on the interstate, the CEL starts blinking. Got off at the next exit, filled up at a Shell (super unleaded - I occasionally fill with SU as rec for land cruisers, but not for tundras). Start engine, idles rough, pull away from gas station to a parking spot, runs rough the whole time. Call AAA. AAA’s obd2 reader says misfire in c5 and c7. Get it towed home.
Today, my obd2 says misfire in c5. Between previous reading and this reading, the truck has been run to position it for pulling onto the tow truck and to park it in my driveway. I disconnect the battery and pull the OEM denso ignition coil from c5. I check the resistance of the four prongs of the old coil and compare with the resistance of my new OEM denso coil, making sure they’ve been in the same spot in my house for a while to ensure temp of both coils is the same (using my analog multimeter). The old coil is giving noticeably lower values, so I assume the old coil is bad. I install the new coil, button up, and start the engine. I let it run for a while, back up and down about 50’ of my driveway multiple times. Let it idle and rev at 1500 and 2500 RMP for a while, and the CEL comes on as steady. OBD reading misfire in C5, 7, and 2. I saw online that the firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The plugs have less than 10k miles on them.
What’s my next step? Is there a chance the ecu has not fully reset from the change to super unleaded and disconnecting the battery. Maybe the connector to the new coil that I installed is not fully on (it was a pita to get it off and on)?
I know the coils will go out on these. I’m not sure how old most of them are. I have replaced 2 other old coils in the past 30k miles.
Thanks!
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04-12-2021, 10:04 PM #2424
Check the plugs of you are still getting a misfire
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04-13-2021, 12:03 AM #2425
Check plug gap. Not sure on spec, but Google should know. Ngk or denso plugs? As close to oem as possible.
Analyze plug tip condition to determine if running rich or lean. Obd2 should pick it up if it is off, but visual inspection is a good idea and easy.
After that, if problem persists, move around suspected coil to see if error code follows suspected coil. Good quality coils? I use oem Toyota parts on my cruiser.
Check all wire harness plugs. As this is a transplant you could have broken plastic connector somewhere causing an issue.
Look for any intake leaks, cracks in intake boot, vac lines etc...
Check your fuel pressure as well. Maybe run some techron through it. Might have sticky injectors if it sat and had lots of ethanol laced shit run through there.
Check that stuff, and I'll get some more things to check.
sent from Utah.sigless.
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