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  1. #201
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Salt Lake City
    Posts
    490
    ^^ That's a sweet truck man. The 1st Gen Tacoma's are really capable off-road, and awfully tough. I'd sure as hell keep it as long as it moves. Which will probably be a long time, even beating on it.

    Sent from my Pixel using TGR Forums mobile app

  2. #202
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Quote Originally Posted by ncskier View Post
    I posted in the Landcruiser thread about picking up a new to me mint 2003 Tacoma Long bed, regular cab, 4x4, 4cylinder. After spending the past 25 years avoiding working on vehicles I have to admit its been fun tinkering with general maintenance stuff. It sat for about 6 years so first was a new battery. Then this past weekend I drained the old oil and replaced with some nice fresh dino oil and Napa gold filter.
    Any thoughts on switching to a high mileage blend or full synthetic?
    It has 166k on the motor and nothing leaks and nothing burns apparently. It runs like a top. The oil filter was a pain in the ass to remove.
    Last night I decided to change spark plugs with some factory Denso from the dealer. They are expensive at $10 a pop, however the prior owner had some POS Autolite ones that were way past their due date.
    I had to follow a tutorial about removing a resonance box for the air box, but once that was out of the way it was smooth sailing. I did put antiseize on the threads and dielectric on the coil packs for good measure, buttoned it back up and couldn't believe how quiet and smooth it was at idle. I suspect based on the condition of the plugs that they change 1&4 but left 2&3 due to them being under the air intake tube. Regardless, its done now and running so quietly its hard to believe its a 15 year old motor. Good job Toyota.
    My buddy owns an independent shop so next is some fresh fluids in the T-Case, Differentials and Gear box. I don't want to tackle those without a lift and experience.
    I scored some Yokohama Geolander M&T+ for $120 each from Tire Rack on clearance and I have new matte grey wheels coming 16x8 with -10mm backspace to give the wheel wells and UCA's some more space for the Old Man Emu lift i ordered. New coilovers and new rear shocks and springs, should add some more clearance and life to the Taco.
    Once external stuff starts going on I'll snaps some pics.
    I have to admit compared to my 2017 Diesel Super Duty, this truck is very fun and more like our Polaris Ranger in a lot of ways. Looking around the almost spartan engine bay is refreshing.
    I have some decisions to make like ripping out the badly beat up rhino lining and possible paint job to OD Green or Desert Tan. Also adding a snorkle and some armor. But that will be phase 2.
    I keep tinkering with "forever cars" and I thought my 2015 JK 4 door would be the one, but that didn't work out due to the stellar quality of Fiat and shitty dealer network which destroyed it.
    I am thinking of keeping this mighty Taco for the long haul. I have less then 5k in it so far and Alias shared the carfax with me and its always been a southern truck. Not a stitch of rust anywhere.
    I should add- I did spend lots of time cleaning the interior since it sat for 6 years under a carport with cigarette ashes in the ash tray. Seemed like every hot day it would reek again. I didn't check the ashtray until this past weekend and realized thats why I couldn't get the smell out. Now after soaking it in white vinegar and leaving vinegar inside the cab for a few days along with an ionizing bomb for the vents, It smells 100% better.
    I would stick with conventional oil at this point. Old mechanics say never go from dino to synthetic, especially at 100k plus miles. People claim if you take acetone and wipe down the head liner it greatly removes cig smell from interior. Check to see if you have a cabin filter that can be replaced.

  3. #203
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Near Perimetr.
    Posts
    3,857
    Quote Originally Posted by ncskier View Post
    I should add- I did spend lots of time cleaning the interior since it sat for 6 years under a carport with cigarette ashes in the ash tray. Seemed like every hot day it would reek again. I didn't check the ashtray until this past weekend and realized thats why I couldn't get the smell out. Now after soaking it in white vinegar and leaving vinegar inside the cab for a few days along with an ionizing bomb for the vents, It smells 100% better.
    The amount of cigarette smell that the upholstery & foam soaks up is insane.
    Friend tried to clean his project van up. First used some ozone service but the car reeked like an ashtray after few weeks. Took off the upholstery and washed it, soaked the foam in a bin with washing powder...dark brown water came out that smelled like dead Malboro Man. He ended up replacing them altogether with some serious scrubbing of the headliners and dashboard etc.. Mileage might vary, depending how many packs a day the former owner has smoked...

    The floggings will continue until morale improves.

  4. #204
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Shuswap Highlands
    Posts
    4,346
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    I would stick with conventional oil at this point. Old mechanics say never go from dino to synthetic, especially at 100k plus miles. People claim if you take acetone and wipe down the head liner it greatly removes cig smell from interior. Check to see if you have a cabin filter that can be replaced.
    No cabin air filter in my 2003. AFAIK, the box didn't get added until 05, and an actual filter didn't come from the factory until 06. I had/have 2 choice in my old 85 and 03, and that is either 'fresh' or recirculate.

  5. #205
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    5,002
    Wrench fest on 540i continued with a bunch of small items. Fixed the busted drivers side seat recline, electric head rest, passenger side head rest. Seats are now fully functional as designed. And installed a new Pioneer stereo. Got tired of only getting 2 radio stations cause the fm range was for Japanese market.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app
    sigless.

  6. #206
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    5,002
    On to the cruiser. Resealed the ac system today. Was completely empty, which is good or bad? Cause I don't want to release that crap in the atmosphere, but since it was empty, guess it already released. Ok, well now the system is sealed. Will get it vacuum tested and charged tomorrow.
    Fun times. Lots of seals.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app
    sigless.

  7. #207
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Greg_o
    Posts
    2,641
    So one of the guide pins on my rear brake calipers is stripped (hex top of bolt).. Should I simply replace the entire caliper or try to work the bolt out some way? ( I don't have a hoist so I'm working at it from the outside of the wheel well, as opposed to being underneath.)

  8. #208
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    907
    Posts
    15,645
    ^^^ It's brakes, so ultimately, you have to feel good about them.
    Do what will make you feel best about your brakes.

  9. #209
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Quote Originally Posted by Thaleia View Post
    So one of the guide pins on my rear brake calipers is stripped (hex top of bolt).. Should I simply replace the entire caliper or try to work the bolt out some way? ( I don't have a hoist so I'm working at it from the outside of the wheel well, as opposed to being underneath.)
    Why would you replace a caliper because of a stopped hex head ? Just go buy a new pin.

  10. #210
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driven way past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    3,068
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    Why would you replace a caliper because of a stopped hex head ? Just go buy a new pin.
    This. Get busy w/some vice grips or drill it and use an easy out. You may want to take the carrier (bracket) off first to get access if you're drilling.

    If the threads are stripped you may be able to buy an oversized "rescue" pin. Dorman sells them for some vehicles.

    Oh and use a shitload of PB Blaster -- obviously the brake hardware is pretty well stuck on this vehicle.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  11. #211
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    soaring on the shitwinds
    Posts
    7,322
    I am going to have to start playing in here. I run the Ops department of a badass hill and we break shit in exotic and impressive ways, often in extremely tricky spots to get to.

    I'll start taking pics.
    "If you limit your choices only to what seems possible or reasonable, you disconnect yourself from what you truly want, and all that is left is a compromise." -Robert Fritz

    Quote Originally Posted by skifishbum View Post
    not enough nun fisters in that community

  12. #212
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Greg_o
    Posts
    2,641
    Quote Originally Posted by highangle View Post
    ^^^ It's brakes, so ultimately, you have to feel good about them.
    Do what will make you feel best about your brakes.
    Yep

    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    Why would you replace a caliper because of a stopped hex head ? Just go buy a new pin.
    The top of the guide pin bolt is stripped, not the thread part - in other words a wrench or socket won't move it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Obstruction View Post
    This. Get busy w/some vice grips or drill it and use an easy out. You may want to take the carrier (bracket) off first to get access if you're drilling.

    If the threads are stripped you may be able to buy an oversized "rescue" pin. Dorman sells them for some vehicles.

    Oh and use a shitload of PB Blaster -- obviously the brake hardware is pretty well stuck on this vehicle.
    PB Blaster for sure, bought two cans today and will start soaking everything a day or two in advance. Never used an easy out before - given that the guide pin is seized I imagine it's going to be a pita, will likely remove the caliper assembly to make it more manageable. Or buy a new caliper..

  13. #213
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Take a look on YouTube on removing a stripped hex caliper guide pin. If you have a small pipe wrench it might do the trick.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using TGR Forums mobile app

  14. #214
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    2,297
    Every time I work on the Heep, I wish every oil filter was this easy.


  15. #215
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    shadow of HS butte
    Posts
    6,398
    My least favorite part of apartment living is no garage. I need to do a pretty simple straight forward repair - ABS sensor rust jacking throwing off the sensor at slow speeds (was a GM recall) - but have no way to do it myself

  16. #216
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,966
    ^^ I sometimes wrench at a friend's house who has a garage and plenty of space. But it's kinda a pita.

    Today I replaced front tie downs with real recovery hardware. Thankful for my neighbor's long breaker bar!

  17. #217
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    9,172
    I have what I like to call "the special touch." Every project I undertake tends to require twice the time it's supposed to, big or small. While I'm not an accomplished mechanic, I've pretty much done everything short of a motor rebuild at this point and it just doesn't get any slower than me.

    A few weeks ago, I added a piggy-back chip to my 1997 7.3L pickup. A seemingly easy project, all one has to do is pull the PCM, sand the terminals, slide the chip on to the board, reinstall PCM, then install the control knob. Internet promised a 30 minute job. Took me an hour and half--the PCM wouldn't come out to save my life and I was loathe to force it. Threading the wire to the knob proved to be Hellen Keller in dildo factory, and then I couldn't decide where to actually drill/place the controls.

    Moving on, I bought a very simple headlight relay-kit for the same truck since the headlights didn't do fuck-all. Doesn't get much easier than this: Remove headlight connections, replace with pre-wired loom/harness/relay kit, connect grounds, connect to battery, connect to headlight wiring using the prewired connector. Even the dumb-dicks on Amazon said it took them less than 10 minutes. Took me 45--bit broke while drilling a ground, couldn't find a suitable ground screw, had to remove a battery to get to route the wires, battery terminal bolt was corroded. Amazing.

    Going to be doing some "bigger" projects on the Ford shortly--front leaf springs and all four shocks. While I've done these several times before, I'm planning on the better part of a day. FML.
    "All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never, ever be boring."

  18. #218
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    454
    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    Today I replaced front tie downs with real recovery hardware. Thankful for my neighbor's long breaker bar!
    Looks familiar.


  19. #219
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,966

    Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

    Quote Originally Posted by unitofstuff View Post
    Looks familiar
    Yep

    I rattle canned mine instead of the powder coat.
    Last edited by bodywhomper; 08-22-2017 at 06:41 PM.

  20. #220
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    panhandle locdog
    Posts
    7,836
    Quote Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater View Post
    I have what I like to call "the special touch." Every project I undertake tends to require twice the time it's supposed to, big or small. While I'm not an accomplished mechanic, I've pretty much done everything short of a motor rebuild at this point and it just doesn't get any slower than me.

    A few weeks ago, I added a piggy-back chip to my 1997 7.3L pickup. A seemingly easy project, all one has to do is pull the PCM, sand the terminals, slide the chip on to the board, reinstall PCM, then install the control knob. Internet promised a 30 minute job. Took me an hour and half--the PCM wouldn't come out to save my life and I was loathe to force it. Threading the wire to the knob proved to be Hellen Keller in dildo factory, and then I couldn't decide where to actually drill/place the controls.

    Moving on, I bought a very simple headlight relay-kit for the same truck since the headlights didn't do fuck-all. Doesn't get much easier than this: Remove headlight connections, replace with pre-wired loom/harness/relay kit, connect grounds, connect to battery, connect to headlight wiring using the prewired connector. Even the dumb-dicks on Amazon said it took them less than 10 minutes. Took me 45--bit broke while drilling a ground, couldn't find a suitable ground screw, had to remove a battery to get to route the wires, battery terminal bolt was corroded. Amazing.

    Going to be doing some "bigger" projects on the Ford shortly--front leaf springs and all four shocks. While I've done these several times before, I'm planning on the better part of a day. FML.
    Dude you and me both. I think rebuilding the front end of my LC took 2 solid days and then it still sat for 3 weeks half taken apart due to broken/missing/fubar'd/out of stock parts needing repair/replacement.

  21. #221
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    5,013
    Put sumo shocks on the new sprinter rig. Easy, fast. No more sag in the back and way less sway. May need to put on the fox shox next.

    Still can't bring myself to install the snorkel.
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  22. #222
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,966
    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    Put sumo shocks on the new sprinter rig. Easy, fast. No more sag in the back and way less sway. May need to put on the fox shox next.

    Still can't bring myself to install the snorkel.
    Jong question: don't spring affect sag and not shocks?

  23. #223
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,966
    Quote Originally Posted by Dromontana View Post
    so, like, the shocks provide damping. And then the springs, well that's mostly used to manage ride height
    As in, shocks don't affect sag....

  24. #224
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    10,467
    Gas and ride-leveling shocks are also a thing. No idea if that's what is on the van.


    I hear you guys on taking longer than it probably should to get work done. That transmission filter and flush I did the other weekend took four hours and that was with a lift. But everything that comes off gets cleaned, every surface is scraped and prepped, and every bolt nut and bolt is torqued.

  25. #225
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    454
    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    Yep

    I rattle canned mine instead of the powder coat.
    I have a bad track record of painting, plus I was only able to get them right before heading off to HIH7. Everyone knows red makes you faster too.

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