Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[basinbeater]

Well the fix on the bimmer worked out. Drove down to torrey yesterday at full triple digit tilt. 3200rpm at 110mph. Silky smooth v8. Analog steering feel and gear change, responsive handling. Such a great freeway and 2 lane highway cruiser.

sent from Utah.

[unitofstuff]

Well the fix on the bimmer worked out. Drove down to torrey yesterday at full triple digit tilt. 3200rpm at 110mph. Silky smooth v8. Analog steering feel and gear change, responsive handling. Such a great freeway and 2 lane highway cruiser.

sent from Utah.

M60's and M62's are just so great to drive, and sound so good too.


A whole weekend and ~1400 later, my wagon is running and driving again. Still have a laundry list of things to take care of, but I'll be chipping away at them. In an awkward spot where it's an OBD1 car that needs a sniffer for emissions and I'm not sure it'll pass, but it'll be eligible for historic plates next year. Either way, need to swing through a muffler shop and get this rusted out stock muffler replaced. Probably go for a long magnaflow.

Night before leaving:

Night I got back and slung this turd in the garage:



This morning I threw some o-track tie down rails, some carpet, and an aluminum trim piece on the drawers. Should've done it ages ago

[CascadeLuke]

Um, what? $400 oil change?

I’m paying close to $100 on my VW sportwagen TDI, but $400 would make me sell the car pretty damn quick.

It’s ridiculous for sure. Have never paid it, knew this move prior to buying. Would’ve been shortsighted to pass up this car though - probably the best I’ve ever owned. Bonus being 10 year diesel gate warranty

[Mazderati]

I am going to get the truck adapters.

Hopefully you have a better experience.

[El Chupacabra]

Any of you have experience piecing together exhausts? My truck exhaust needs some help -- tailpipe rusted off behind the muffler last year (reattached with a large band clamp), and now that same section of tailpipe has a 1.5-2" hole rusted through at another location. I need to replace the tailpipe... and I want to do this cheaply, as I just need the truck to remain intact until I replace the whole truck, hopefully later this year.

There's enough of a stub left on the muffler exit (downstream) for me to clamp a new tailpipe onto it. The muffler exit is 4" diameter. The closest fitting tailpipe I've found has a 3" attachment to the muffler -- this one:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1359165&jsn=12

Is this the correct reducer for fitting that 3" tailpipe to the existing 4" muffler? The ID/OD designations on muffler/exhaust piping gets confusing. Reading the description on this reducer, it may be the wrong size -- it says 3" OD, and the tailpipe linked above has a 3" OD.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=133469

[El Chupacabra]

Any of you have experience piecing together exhausts? My truck exhaust needs some help -- tailpipe rusted off behind the muffler last year (reattached with a large band clamp), and now that same section of tailpipe has a 1.5-2" hole rusted through at another location. I need to replace the tailpipe... and I want to do this cheaply, as I just need the truck to remain intact until I replace the whole truck, hopefully later this year.

There's enough of a stub left on the muffler exit (downstream) for me to clamp a new tailpipe onto it. The muffler exit is 4" diameter. The closest fitting tailpipe I've found has a 3" attachment to the muffler -- this one:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1359165&jsn=12

Is this the correct reducer for fitting that 3" tailpipe to the existing 4" muffler? The ID/OD designations on muffler/exhaust piping gets confusing. Reading the description on this reducer, it may be the wrong size -- it says 3" OD, and the tailpipe linked above has a 3" OD.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=133469

Did more searching -- I think that ^^^ reducer is the wrong size.

This one is 4" ID to 3" ID -- which should fit my existing muffler output (4" OD) and the new tailpipe linked above (3" OD), and I can attach with U bolt muffler clamps.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=133713

On the clamp sizing: do you buy the same clamp size as the pipe? i.e. a 3" clamp for a 3" pipe? Or should you use a slightly larger clamp, like a 3 1/4" clamp for a 3" pipe?

[warthog]

Placeholder for a tutorial on how to cut an access hole in a '95 Ford Bronco bed so I can change out the fuel pump/sender assembly.

Pray for me.

[powdrhound]

Placeholder for a tutorial on how to cut an access hole in a '95 Ford Bronco bed so I can change out the fuel pump/sender assembly.

Pray for me.

Just drop the tank. It’s not That hard to do.

[El Chupacabra]

^^^ Run it as low as you can on gas. And use a brass drift if you hammer on the fuel pump lock ring or whatever is holding it into the tank - - brass doesn't spark.

[MakersTeleMark]

Just drop the tank. It’s not That hard to do.

This.

[warthog]

Just drop the tank. It’s not That hard to do.

Yeah, I know. I want an access panel. I don't want to mess with trying to bleed out the pressure in the EFI rails, and I hate disconnecting old hoses that weren't built for ethanol. It is apparently a common failure, and it always happens when the tank is full. I am redoing the entire interior, so this was already on the list. Tank is 3/4 full and I don't feel like siphoning it.

I have a brass punch, and I will be hand cutting the access to avoid sparks. Pretty well set on how to do it all, I just didn't want to do it so soon. The truck had other ideas.

I should have worded it differently. I will be making a tutorial, not needing one. I am going to do a write up for the FSB site since I plan on using a marine round access plate and a Rivtool to set the screw holes so they will be permanently threaded and not strip out later.

[basinbeater]

To bleed the pressure in the rails, just pull the fuel pump fuse, and run the engine til she dies. Fuel pressure relieved... Mostly most of the time in most cars.

sent from Utah.

[basinbeater]

Finally got around to working on something other than rc cars and stereos. You all know how dear to my heart my e34 540i is. Well, she spring a leak! Ack. She only has 185,000 miles on her! Well she sprang it 5000 miles ago, and it's time for an oil change. So, it is my hunch that the leak is coming from the lower oil pan. So, time to drop the pan. I redid the lower pan seal about 25k ago when I dropped the lower pan to find most of the oil pump bolts sitting in the lower pan (common m60 issues), and apparently did a shit job when I put the pan back on.
Got the pan dropped and resealed the oil level sensor, and cleaned up the gasket surface. Tomorrow I'll clean up the engine side and put the pan back on.
To be continued...


sent from Utah.

[The Reverend Floater]

Yeah, I know. I want an access panel. I don't want to mess with trying to bleed out the pressure in the EFI rails, and I hate disconnecting old hoses that weren't built for ethanol. It is apparently a common failure, and it always happens when the tank is full. I am redoing the entire interior, so this was already on the list. Tank is 3/4 full and I don't feel like siphoning it.

I have a brass punch, and I will be hand cutting the access to avoid sparks. Pretty well set on how to do it all, I just didn't want to do it so soon. The truck had other ideas.

I should have worded it differently. I will be making a tutorial, not needing one. I am going to do a write up for the FSB site since I plan on using a marine round access plate and a Rivtool to set the screw holes so they will be permanently threaded and not strip out later.

I did this to an old 88 Bronco way back when. Not as daunting as you might think.

[gravitylover]

Anybody have a trick to get that awesomely sticky goo that holds the inner door seal to the door to release? The rear window regulator cable snapped so I'm seeing how many plastic clips I can break taking things apart Next is going to be ripped window seals because they like where they live after 15 years and have to be removed to take the glass out. Yippee.

[El Chupacabra]

By inner door seal, do you mean the plastic rain guard? Just pull it off, reseal with Gorilla tape.

You could get fancy while you're in there and put down some sound dampening material (Dynamat type stuff).

[MontuckyFried]

Anybody have a trick to get that awesomely sticky goo that holds the inner door seal to the door to release? The rear window regulator cable snapped so I'm seeing how many plastic clips I can break taking things apart Next is going to be ripped window seals because they like where they live after 15 years and have to be removed to take the glass out. Yippee.

Heat gun? Being mindful of the paint of course.

[gravitylover]

@ElChup, it's a nice thick foam in mine so no hard pulling. Aldo says heat so I'm going with that. I also went to the dollar store and got one of those knives with the long snap off blade to slice the glue while it's stretched to make it easier to stick back in cleanly.

[warthog]

You could try one of those plastic caulk remover tools too. I have one that is angled to take up the caulk on the boat in one pass.
That might help.

[warthog]

Well, fuel pump seems to be working after I primed the engine with a little gas down the TB.
It whines in KOEO position, and it doesn't stop. Going to test the relay and the TBS next.
It is idling high and spitting soot, so it is totally running rich. When I unplug the IAC, it calms down, almost too calm though.
Something is telling the IAC to stay open, so thinking it is the sensor. Fun stuff.

[Mazderati]

Fishing line if the surface is flatish and have access to both sides.

[gravitylover]

It works and I didn't break anything 😀 I took the door apart, got the window out, replaced the regulator, got the window and all the moldings back in and got it together with no rattles or broken plastic bits.

I'm getting that confidence up and losing the job anxiety now. I have some time in under the hood and other still runs 👍 Front sway links will get done tomorrow and rear upper control arm bushings later this week. They're worn out and making the truck jump sideways over high speed stutter bumps.

[grabtindy]

Not exactly an adventure, but I did add some mud flaps to the DonnerHase this weekend:




Next round of mods is all electrical: a radar detector, JB4 and some driving lights on order.

[warthog]

I'm getting that confidence up and losing the job anxiety now.

Careful, that is usually when I start breaking stuff. Calm deep breath. No rush.

[Falcon3]

MFn thieves.

Started the van this morning to the raucous sound of my Small Block Chevy running open headers. Turned it off and looked under knowing what I’d find.

Cat sawed off.

Funny thing is, I have two cats sitting next to my garage I took off my 4Runner they could have taken. But they sawed the one off the vehicle I need. Fucking thieves