Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[Rideski]

Cool I’ll check the difference.

[Falcon3]

Just blew the transmission on my Chevy Express, fuck you 4L60E. Why doesn’t Chevy stick to small block V8s and leave the shifting to Aisin and Allison?

Gonna try to pull it myself and bring it to a local shade tree guy that rebuilds these custom in his garage. Seems he has as much experience as a tech in a shop and is about half price with warranty.

[The Reverend Floater]

Could just be age of the seals - wasn't the last year of that body style around 2004?

And Rideski - sometimes it's easier (and not that much more expensive) to replace the entire control arm if the ball joint comes with it, and then you also get new control arm bushings.

I suppose. I just replaced the original ball joints on my 1996 F250HD at 108K--and that's a plow truck.

[Touring_Sedan]

Anyone else curious why YMJC's ball joints would go out at 40k? That seems very, very low unless you've been seriously beating on that truck.

Anyhow, fuck ball joints. Always a pain in the dick.

It's a '96/'97 and spent most of it's life in the rust belt. There's no way in hell I expect the rubber on the joints to last a quarter of a century.

[fatnslow]

It's a '96/'97 and spent most of it's life in the rust belt. There's no way in hell I expect the rubber on the joints to last a quarter of a century.

You might consider getting a bottle of at-205 , give it some cleaning and a spray down of all the boots to try and revive the rubber if it's not dried out and cracked.

[Touring_Sedan]

Drove it another 50 miles today. It's significantly quieter. Mission accomplished.

I just wish it was like the wife's car and it's self lubricating chassis.

[Aldo]

I suppose. I just replaced the original ball joints on my 1996 F250HD at 108K--and that's a plow truck.

And it’s also a 3/4 ton


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[gravitylover]

Drove it another 50 miles today. It's significantly quieter. Mission accomplished.

I just wish it was like the wife's car and it's self lubricating chassis.

Eek, I'm glad mine doesn't look like that underneath. I guess Jaguar motors are tighter Funny how the numbers on my UG are so close to those, a few rpm higher. What other gauges do you have on other pages? I have temp, fuel psi, maf pressure, boost, instant mpg and a few others so it changes pages every 10 or 20 seconds.

[Touring_Sedan]

Eek, I'm glad mine doesn't look like that underneath. I guess Jaguar motors are tighter Funny how the numbers on my UG are so close to those, a few rpm higher. What other gauges do you have on other pages? I have temp, fuel psi, maf pressure, boost, instant mpg and a few others so it changes pages every 10 or 20 seconds.

If it leaks, it still has oil, right? These are the only gauges I typically leave displayed in the Rover. It's the wife's whip, so all I'm mostly concerned is engine temp. I have it setup to alarm when it get's too warm. I have a few ScanGauge's in the other vehicles. On those, along with the expected, I'll check RPM, (no tach,) and IAT.

[fatnslow]

Drove it another 50 miles today. It's significantly quieter. Mission accomplished.

I just wish it was like the wife's car and it's self lubricating chassis.

I guess that car would never need an oil change as long as you keep topping it off at that rate of drip.

[highangle]

If it leaks, it still has oil, right? ...

Self-changin' lubrication systems have some upsides - engine's always using fresh oil so you don't have to spend extra for snooty synthetic, undercarriage corrosion protection, coronavirus distancing due to being embarrassed to park on friends' driveways... Keep a gallon of oil in the cargo net, for when you check the fuel and top off the oil.

ProTip: Having your wife check her own oil is asking her to meet friendly men every time she raises the hood at a gas station. That's trouble you don't need.

[BmillsSkier]

Where are you guys buying OEM or refurbished wheels (and not paying insane dealer/mfr.-direct prices)?

Bent one of mine this week to the point that it has to go. I've used autorimshop.com in the past for refurbs but it appears they're out of that game now.

[climberevan]

Just blew the transmission on my Chevy Express, fuck you 4L60E. Why doesn’t Chevy stick to small block V8s and leave the shifting to Aisin and Allison?

Gonna try to pull it myself and bring it to a local shade tree guy that rebuilds these custom in his garage. Seems he has as much experience as a tech in a shop and is about half price with warranty.

I rebuilt a TH400 from my RV a while back and learned why auto trans rebuilds are one of the biggest profit makers for mechanics. Parts are super cheap and it's not a hard job. Pulling it, and having it kind of drop onto my face, was the hardest part, by far. If your guy knows what he's doing I bet it will take him 4 hours or less to do the job.

[Todd Zander]

Where are you guys buying OEM or refurbished wheels (and not paying insane dealer/mfr.-direct prices)?

Bent one of mine this week to the point that it has to go. I've used autorimshop.com in the past for refurbs but it appears they're out of that game now.

Junkyards are still all on car-part.com

[fatnslow]

Where are you guys buying OEM or refurbished wheels (and not paying insane dealer/mfr.-direct prices)?

Bent one of mine this week to the point that it has to go. I've used autorimshop.com in the past for refurbs but it appears they're out of that game now.

If it's a newer Euro you should take a look at all the enthusiast sites for their classifieds, possibly post a WTB listing. Craigslist has a wheels/tire section where folks sell their take offs.

[El Chupacabra]

Update on my PITA knock sensor / intake manifold project on the GMC Sierra. Truck has been running great, mileage improved about 10% (12.7 MPG!).

Downside is that it kept throwing codes for both knock sensors for low voltage, setting the check engine light. Watching an OBD scanner while driving, even with the codes triggered, the computer was not retarding timing - seeing anywhere from 30-40* of advance, down to around 15* at idle. Google tells me that's perfect.

Testing with a multimeter revealed no connectivity between the knock sensor harness and ground. There should be around 900-1100k ohms resistance on a functional sensor.

So... removed the whole goddamn intake manifold again, and all the assorted connections involved in that process.

Testing the knock sensor harness: connectivity is good.

Testing the knock sensors installed in the block: nothing. Both aren't connecting. Attempt to remove, and both spin internally, making it a PITA to remove, and means they're broken. Get them both removed eventually, and clean the mounting location a LOT.

Ordered new sensors from Amazon, they'll be here tomorrow. Going to install VERY carefully, and test with multimeter before reassembling everything else. There needs to be continuity from the sensor to ground, and I can check all that before putting everything back together.

Here's what I think happened: I torqued the replacement sensors to spec (15ft-lb), and I remember feeling like something "gave" a little bit when torquing, on both of them. I think the sensor spun internally upon torquing - the outer shell is crimped in place to the inner bit. When it spun, the internal connection was damaged.

I was using OEM AC Delco knock sensors, and ordered the same new ones again. I'm not going to torque down the next ones as tight.

I hate having to re-do a project.

[bodywhomper]

Ugh. Re-doing, and, of course, missing some ski time!

[Skidog]

Update on my PITA knock sensor / intake manifold project on the GMC Sierra. Truck has been running great, mileage improved about 10% (12.7 MPG!).

Downside is that it kept throwing codes for both knock sensors for low voltage, setting the check engine light. Watching an OBD scanner while driving, even with the codes triggered, the computer was not retarding timing - seeing anywhere from 30-40* of advance, down to around 15* at idle. Google tells me that's perfect.

Testing with a multimeter revealed no connectivity between the knock sensor harness and ground. There should be around 900-1100k ohms resistance on a functional sensor.

So... removed the whole goddamn intake manifold again, and all the assorted connections involved in that process.

Testing the knock sensor harness: connectivity is good.

Testing the knock sensors installed in the block: nothing. Both aren't connecting. Attempt to remove, and both spin internally, making it a PITA to remove, and means they're broken. Get them both removed eventually, and clean the mounting location a LOT.

Ordered new sensors from Amazon, they'll be here tomorrow. Going to install VERY carefully, and test with multimeter before reassembling everything else. There needs to be continuity from the sensor to ground, and I can check all that before putting everything back together.

Here's what I think happened: I torqued the replacement sensors to spec (15ft-lb), and I remember feeling like something "gave" a little bit when torquing, on both of them. I think the sensor spun internally upon torquing - the outer shell is crimped in place to the inner bit. When it spun, the internal connection was damaged.

I was using OEM AC Delco knock sensors, and ordered the same new ones again. I'm not going to torque down the next ones as tight.

I hate having to re-do a project.

Sucks. Like re doing an oil change or a diff oil change is one thing. Having to pull the manifold 2x sucks ass. Sorry man.

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[The Reverend Floater]

Update on my PITA knock sensor / intake manifold project on the GMC Sierra. Truck has been running great, mileage improved about 10% (12.7 MPG!).

Downside is that it kept throwing codes for both knock sensors for low voltage, setting the check engine light. Watching an OBD scanner while driving, even with the codes triggered, the computer was not retarding timing - seeing anywhere from 30-40* of advance, down to around 15* at idle. Google tells me that's perfect.

Testing with a multimeter revealed no connectivity between the knock sensor harness and ground. There should be around 900-1100k ohms resistance on a functional sensor.

So... removed the whole goddamn intake manifold again, and all the assorted connections involved in that process.

Testing the knock sensor harness: connectivity is good.

Testing the knock sensors installed in the block: nothing. Both aren't connecting. Attempt to remove, and both spin internally, making it a PITA to remove, and means they're broken. Get them both removed eventually, and clean the mounting location a LOT.

Ordered new sensors from Amazon, they'll be here tomorrow. Going to install VERY carefully, and test with multimeter before reassembling everything else. There needs to be continuity from the sensor to ground, and I can check all that before putting everything back together.

Here's what I think happened: I torqued the replacement sensors to spec (15ft-lb), and I remember feeling like something "gave" a little bit when torquing, on both of them. I think the sensor spun internally upon torquing - the outer shell is crimped in place to the inner bit. When it spun, the internal connection was damaged.

I was using OEM AC Delco knock sensors, and ordered the same new ones again. I'm not going to torque down the next ones as tight.

I hate having to re-do a project.

I know this doesn't help you but last time I did an intake manifold was on a GMC Suburban and I ended up doing it 3 times. It's the balls.

[Falcon3]

Drove it another 50 miles today. It's significantly quieter. Mission accomplished.

I just wish it was like the wife's car and it's self lubricating chassis.

]

I’m really disappointed in everybody in this thread. No jokes about his wife’s self-lubricating chassis?

[Norseman]

Where are you guys buying OEM or refurbished wheels (and not paying insane dealer/mfr.-direct prices)?

Bent one of mine this week to the point that it has to go. I've used autorimshop.com in the past for refurbs but it appears they're out of that game now.

I just bought some from Finish Line Wheels.

https://www.finishlinewheels.com/

Seemed legit with good search tool and inventory. Will update if it's a scam... hope not.

[BmillsSkier]

I just bought some from Finish Line Wheels.

https://www.finishlinewheels.com/

Seemed legit with good search tool and inventory. Will update if it's a scam... hope not.

Boom! That's what I'm talking about. Literally half the price of the other places selling OEM/refurbs, and for a new OEM wheel. Thanks Norseman,

[BmillsSkier]

Hits keep coming today apparently. 70° temps arrived and I note that the a/c now blows on “ambient heat” when set to LO as of this afternoon.

YouTube wrench tells me I got this and can cure it all with a fancy can of gas and a gauge.

Realistic me doesn’t know shit about hvac systems in things without wheels.

I gotta take this shit in, don’t I?

[Touring_Sedan]

Hits keep coming today apparently. 70° temps arrived and I note that the a/c now blows on “ambient heat” when set to LO as of this afternoon.

YouTube wrench tells me I got this and can cure it all with a fancy can of gas and a gauge.

Realistic me doesn’t know shit about hvac systems in things without wheels.

I gotta take this shit in, don’t I?

Might as well just spray that shit right into the atmosphere and save yourself some time.

But yes, take it in while it's still hopefully positively pressurized and not filled with water vapor.

[El Chupacabra]

Hits keep coming today apparently. 70° temps arrived and I note that the a/c now blows on “ambient heat” when set to LO as of this afternoon.

YouTube wrench tells me I got this and can cure it all with a fancy can of gas and a gauge.

Realistic me doesn’t know shit about hvac systems in things without wheels.

I gotta take this shit in, don’t I?

What vehicle is it? No cold air at all? A/C compressor engaging (visually confirm clutch engages)? Belt to compressor not broken (if separate from main serpentine)?

You can get a set of A/C gauges from Autozone loaner tools and diagnose what's going on. If it's an old vehicle that slowly leaked out refrigerant, you can DIY a recharge easily.