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  1. #1851
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    Feb 2009
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    @Gravitylover. Had the same no start with mine. Took off the air filter and shot some brake cleaner into the carb. It ran for 15 seconds. Good sign. I got spark. Emptied the gas tank with a turkey baster. Pulled the carb off. Took float bowl off and float (don't loose the small parts) and cleaned it. Unscrewed the main jet and it was clean. Put it back together, added some FRESH gas in and it ran. Did the same with my outboard with success.
    A few people feel the rain. Most people just get wet.

  2. #1852
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    11,818
    I took it apart yesterday, shot the carb with carb cleaner and got everything I could get to cleaned then put it back together. Nothing. It's looking like it comes apart again today and the carb gets broken down completely like what you did. I haven't rebuilt a carb in 25 years. Either that or I just tell the wife it's DOA and get a nice Makita electric and be done with the bs.

  3. #1853
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    6,400
    @ fro thanks for the post on jack stands. Mine are from NAPA but I’ll go put some load on them and wiggle them around and see if they fail.

  4. #1854
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
    Posts
    7,946
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    I took it apart yesterday, shot the carb with carb cleaner and got everything I could get to cleaned then put it back together. Nothing. It's looking like it comes apart again today and the carb gets broken down completely like what you did. I haven't rebuilt a carb in 25 years. Either that or I just tell the wife it's DOA and get a nice Makita electric and be done with the bs.
    Electric is the way to go...but $27 for a new carb on the mower my neighbor gave me before he died of cancer...or $500 for a new electric mower that is actually up to the job. Went with the carb. And took my 20 year old mower to the recyclers.

  5. #1855
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    Feb 2009
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    I've had my weed whacker stop running after a few seconds because mud wasps built nests in the air intake.
    A few people feel the rain. Most people just get wet.

  6. #1856
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    Southeast New York
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    A bunch of little bits in the fuel system rotted Fucking ethanol...

  7. #1857
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    Feb 2009
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    Ugh. No more ethanol for you. Same for my 30 y o Evinrude.
    A few people feel the rain. Most people just get wet.

  8. #1858
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Moose, Iowa
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    Sadly it is almost always ethanol.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  9. #1859
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    11,818
    I wish I could get non-e gas closer than 40 miles from home. Going electric should solve that but it's gonna cost...

  10. #1860
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
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    7,946
    Quote Originally Posted by wooley12 View Post
    Ugh. No more ethanol for you. Same for my 30 y o Evinrude.
    RIP Evinrude.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  11. #1861
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    666
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    A bunch of little bits in the fuel system rotted Fucking ethanol...
    Quote Originally Posted by wooley12 View Post
    Ugh. No more ethanol for you. Same for my 30 y o Evinrude.
    It can happen suddenly.

    Years ago when they first started mixing in ethanol, went out with a friend on my Whaler. Had one tank full, filled the other at a gas station, not the dock to save a little coin. After a few hours I switched tanks as I didn't want to run dry on the way back in. As soon as that new gas hit the engine - DITW! Ethanol had partially dissolved and released gunk. Clogged the fuel filter immediately. Ended up having to replace all gas lines, in and out of the engine and both tanks. As well as the fuel filter.

  12. #1862
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,818
    Boy I'm just getting fucked on things mechanical this week. Pulled the passenger rear wheel to start putting new pads and rotors on the 06 Durango and things were 'a bit' rusty. I finally got the caliper off and went to pull the mounting bracket and those bolts decided they like where they live so soak overnight again. I went out this morning and put the weakass old Dewalt impact wrench I borrowed on it and the head of the nut rounded in the first 2 seconds. Now the rusty stuff won't go back together, one of the pads fell apart and I can't put the wheel back on to take it to a shop and beg for help.

    Time to start drinking and figure it out tomorrow I think...

  13. #1863
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    PB Blaster. 3x daily for a few days. Proper 6 pt socket on a hand tool. A couple of whacks with hammer on the tool clockwise direction to "break" the rust bond. You won't feel it move. Start turning counter clockwise and hold your breath. I never leaned anything that I didn't screw up the first time so you got that out of the way.

    What I've found to be true working on old metal. If the number of threaded fasteners is greater than 4, the last one will be the hardest to remove.
    A few people feel the rain. Most people just get wet.

  14. #1864
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    666
    Quote Originally Posted by wooley12 View Post

    What I've found to be true working on old metal. If the number of threaded fasteners is greater than 4, the last one will be the hardest to remove.
    Physics. Whenever you have two surfaces held tightly together, as you remove the fasteners the forces are transferred to the remaining fasteners. By the time you get to the last one all the forces are going to that one.

    Solution. As you break free each one retorque it down until all are free.

  15. #1865
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    17,757
    Quote Originally Posted by wooley12 View Post
    Proper 6 pt socket on a hand tool.
    This I've learned the hard way as well. The advantage of using power tools is that they allow you to fuck things up to a greater degree far faster than using hand tools. A 24" long 1/2" drive bar is the best tool I ever bought for working on rusty car parts.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  16. #1866
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
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    Imaginationland
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    4,797
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Boy I'm just getting fucked on things mechanical this week. Pulled the passenger rear wheel to start putting new pads and rotors on the 06 Durango and things were 'a bit' rusty. I finally got the caliper off and went to pull the mounting bracket and those bolts decided they like where they live so soak overnight again. I went out this morning and put the weakass old Dewalt impact wrench I borrowed on it and the head of the nut rounded in the first 2 seconds. Now the rusty stuff won't go back together, one of the pads fell apart and I can't put the wheel back on to take it to a shop and beg for help.

    Time to start drinking and figure it out tomorrow I think...
    Do you have an oxy-acetylene torch? Get that bolt hot as fuck, let it cool for a couple minutes, then clamp a vise grip on there as tight as humanly possible, and give it a go. If that doesn't work, I'd be very surprised. Secondary option is to weld a grade 8 nut onto the stripped head and try again with the impact.

  17. #1867
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    you see a tie dye disc in there?
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    4,675
    Quote Originally Posted by NW_SKIER View Post
    Do you have an oxy-acetylene torch? Get that bolt hot as fuck, let it cool for a couple minutes, then clamp a vise grip on there as tight as humanly possible, and give it a go. If that doesn't work, I'd be very surprised. Secondary option is to weld a grade 8 nut onto the stripped head and try again with the impact.
    This, heat is friend, even a small green bottle torch will do decent if you let it sit for a bit. I also like to hit head of the bolt while hot also to "break" it away from the rusty seal.

    When you need to weld on another nut, you are at the ZEN moment when every word out of your mouth will be a cuss word.

  18. #1868
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Access to Granlibakken
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    11,228
    Agree on the high leverage hand tools, they allow some sort of feel for what’s going on. Also agree on the 2 X daily PB Blaster. Had some suspension parts take 48 hrs.

  19. #1869
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    2,287
    Yep. My rusty regiment is PB blaster(or liquid wrench etc) night before and repeat as necessary. Also I mostly leave air/power tools till after I break loose. Proper socket and 1/2in ratchet with a big fucking breaker bar. My go to is the top half of the floor jack. If you need a bigger breaker bar than that, well, something is gonna break...Haha. have also used the heat and vice grip method as well. Never welded a nut to stripped one but have used a touch smaller socket and beat the shit outta of it to make it "fit" not really recommended.

  20. #1870
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    11,818
    Quote Originally Posted by wooley12 View Post
    PB Blaster. 3x daily for a few days. Proper 6 pt socket on a hand tool. A couple of whacks with hammer on the tool clockwise direction to "break" the rust bond. You won't feel it move. Start turning counter clockwise and hold your breath. I never leaned anything that I didn't screw up the first time so you got that out of the way.

    What I've found to be true working on old metal. If the number of threaded fasteners is greater than 4, the last one will be the hardest to remove.
    Ha! So very true.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ski220 View Post
    Physics. Whenever you have two surfaces held tightly together, as you remove the fasteners the forces are transferred to the remaining fasteners. By the time you get to the last one all the forces are going to that one.

    Solution. As you break free each one retorque it down until all are free.
    Why didn't I ever think of that solution? Well shit...
    Quote Originally Posted by hawkgt View Post
    This, heat is friend, even a small green bottle torch will do decent if you let it sit for a bit. I also like to hit head of the bolt while hot also to "break" it away from the rusty seal.

    When you need to weld on another nut, you are at the ZEN moment when every word out of your mouth will be a cuss word.
    I got a better fitting 6 point to hold well, forgot I had this impact set so the game is still on. Ya think a little propane torch might do it? Alrightee then, gonna go pull the wheel off again and shoot it with some more PB.

    It's a pita getting a breaker on the passenger side because you're lifting up not pushing down, that's why I borrowed what turned out to be a shitty impact wrench. Has anyone ever seen one you can hold still in your hand

  21. #1871
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    4,656
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post

    It's a pita getting a breaker on the passenger side because you're lifting up not pushing down, that's why I borrowed what turned out to be a shitty impact wrench. Has anyone ever seen one you can hold still in your hand
    Use your floor jack under your breaker bar to push it up if you can't generate enough force to lift it. Safer than using an impact as you can "feel" it a bit as someone mentioned above.

  22. #1872
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,818
    Ding now I get it, missed that the first time. See this is why I ask questions and relay my issues when I'm digging into things I don't really know about. This thread is awesome

  23. #1873
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    6,400
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    It's a pita getting a breaker on the passenger side because you're lifting up not pushing down
    I’m only in my second cup of coffee but haven’t figured that one out yet...

  24. #1874
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Imaginationland
    Posts
    4,797
    Put an extension on the socket and spin the wrench over the other way so you can push on it. Then put something under the head of the wrench to keep it from falling. Or have someone help you hold it. Works for me anyways.

  25. #1875
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    you see a tie dye disc in there?
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    Quote Originally Posted by NW_SKIER View Post
    Or have someone help you hold it. Works for me anyways.
    HAH!! Just reminded me of my and a buddy in HS. He chipped his teeth while we attempted this on my car (75 Vega and dropped a 327 into) getting the 10 bolt rear end out. He was holding the wrench head.
    Looked like Floyd Christmas for a couple years until fixed.

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