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  1. #1551
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Sandy
    Posts
    1,134
    Did the spark plugs on my 5.0 F150 yesterday at 95k miles. Guessing they were the originals (spec'd to 100k) and they had a lot of wear. Gap is spec'd at .051 and all the old ones were about .060. Seems to idle a lot smoother now and hoping to pick up a little mpg!

    Pretty nice how easy of a job it is on this engine, didn't have to take anything extra out of the way!

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    Working dog my ass.
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  2. #1552
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    AK
    Posts
    323
    ^Glad Ford figured out how to make an engine that doesn't take a half a day to change the sparkplugs. Anyone changed plugs on a 5.4L??? Love the dog btw.

    Speaking of Fords, looks like I'm buying a broken one for a project
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    6.0L Diesel, I know, I know... apparently I like a good challenge, or just enjoy pain.

    Going to attack headgaskets, egr cooler, oil cooler and a myriad of other potential issues. After that, hopefully I like the truck enough to continue and covert the box to a winter camper. Already has two forms of heat in the box, aux batteries, inverter and insulation. Plus its 4wd. Not very incognito, but may just fit my needs.

  3. #1553
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Sandy
    Posts
    1,134
    Man you just mentioned 5.4 and 6.0 in the same post! But yeah when I bought this truck I was specifically avoiding any 5.4s in my search.

    It seems like bulletproofing a 6.0 can make a pretty solid truck, and honestly at this point most 7.3s out there are pretty damn tired. I've been wanting to build a 4x4 box truck or ambo for a long time, should be a sweet rig!

  4. #1554
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    907
    Posts
    10,086
    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    Man you just mentioned 5.4 and 6.0 in the same post! But yeah when I bought this truck I was specifically avoiding any 5.4s in my search.

    It seems like bulletproofing a 6.0 can make a pretty solid truck, and honestly at this point most 7.3s out there are pretty damn tired. I've been wanting to build a 4x4 box truck or ambo for a long time, should be a sweet rig!

    Just replaced a High Pressure Oil Pump in my old 7.3...After the "Performance 17* Stage 1 HPOP" from Diesel Auto Power in Kaysville, Ut straight up shit the bed 3 weeks out of warranty, and put me down on the side of the Sterling Highway.

    Diesel Auto Power in Kaysville, Ut has so far declined to RMA the pump, since it was 3 weeks out of warranty...

  5. #1555
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Sandy
    Posts
    1,134
    Quote Originally Posted by highangle View Post
    Just replaced a High Pressure Oil Pump in my old 7.3...After the "Performance 17* Stage 1 HPOP" from Diesel Auto Power in Kaysville, Ut straight up shit the bed 3 weeks out of warranty, and put me down on the side of the Sterling Highway.

    Diesel Auto Power in Kaysville, Ut has so far declined to RMA the pump, since it was 3 weeks out of warranty...
    Good to know. I no longer have my 7.3 but am thinking about picking up another. I will keep their name in mind to avoid since they are local.

  6. #1556
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    907
    Posts
    10,086
    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    Good to know. I no longer have my 7.3 but am thinking about picking up another. I will keep their name in mind to avoid since they are local.
    Considering their failed pump and their behavior wrt a borderline RMA case...Not impressed.

    Rlly&trlly, I just opted for that pump because turnaround time for a Dieselsite Adrenaline pump didn't fit my window right then, or something...

    Upside is I met a seriously good 7.3 wrench in Soldotna. JT took about 60 seconds to diagnose the "no-start" as a mechanical rather than electronic issue, then about another minute to rule out fuel pressure. 2 minutes later, he had a liquid-filled gauge plugged into the DS oil rail. One long crank later, he was pulling the PS valve cover. Another long crank (244rpm cranking speed heh) showed no erl flowing from injector spouts.
    Truck oil between hashmarks=enough to rule that out. Only thing no oil to injectors can be is hpop or lpop. Check hpop reservoir: full=not low pressure oil pump
    =HPOP

    Motorcraft 17* HPOP, gasket & IPR= $1080
    3.4 hours shop time @ $120/hr=$408
    Tow=$171
    ----------------------------------------------
    $1659

    (He also changed my oil for another hundo, but it needed that before the problem, so it's not really "a repair" per se. )
    .................................................. ......................................

    But a HPOP is a 300,000 part, usually. That's like, 4 vacuum pump-lives, at least.
    And any well-equipped shadetree should be able to do his own HPOP too. They are easier on a 99-2003 because you don't have to pull the fuel bowl. (RIP DieselTechRon on YouTube)

  7. #1557
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    351
    Just put a fuel pump in my ml430. Total time including trip to the parts store and r/r the pump twice because the float arm fell off the first time i jammed it in the tank

    3hours.

    Taking the seats out and replacing took the majority of the time.

    Sent from my H3223 using Tapatalk

  8. #1558
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    2,738
    Fun times yesterday. I replaced the idler arm in the steering linkage. The clunk in the video is now gone, today I tightened a nut on the steering column (still not quite sure why this works, but it does) and the clunk went away, steering now feels tight.



    sent from Utah.
    Last edited by basinbeater; 08-14-2019 at 10:34 AM.
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  9. #1559
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    2,980
    I’m embarrassed to say I’ve been taking the cars in to the shop a lot recently. Had some time so did the brakes on my rav last week. One hour and $500 richer.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  10. #1560
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    King Ridge
    Posts
    1,457
    My son bought his first vehicle over the weekend. Slightly beat up 2006 Jeep Commander with 168,000 miles (3.7L V6). Pretty sure the plugs were original. .044 gap burned into .090. Were a pain in the balls to remove. Front brakes came off much easier. Replacement parts will be here tomorrow.

    Damn kids .

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  11. #1561
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    312
    Completely unrelated to current discussions, but the geek in me is dying to know:

    My sisters car (2005 Honda Accord) is parked here while she is travelling, hasn't been touched for about 7 weeks - I turned it on today just to see how it was doing.. It turned over and started better than expected, but a cloud of smoke came out from underneath (I was in that ass on car seat with legs on the driveway pose so it was pretty evident it came from under the car, as opposed to from the exhaust) and I'm curious if there's a common thing that could be? No real identifiable smell, just a sudden smoky cloud that appeared then cleared pretty quickly.

    I'd assume it was just dust that had accumulated from it sitting but it had a purple tinge to it. Swear it was smoke.

    Anyone experience something similar? I'm not worried really, just genuinely curious.

  12. #1562
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    tree OH TREE!!!!!
    Posts
    3,105
    Slight valve leak? Can remember, rings white smoke and valve seals blue or vice versa.

    High mileage car? Add more oil and drive it like a rental

  13. #1563
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    315
    I killed a tire while fucking around in Colorado a few weekends ago.

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    Those tires were gonna be done by the end of the year anyway, so I went ahead and got a new set. A little wider and more aggressive. I guess the only wrenching I did was add a set of 1.25" spacers.

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  14. #1564
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    2,738
    I'm procrastinating going downstairs to put the new wheel bearing in on my hundie....
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    sent from Utah.
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  15. #1565
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    2,738
    Fun part is hammering in the outer races into the hub. I put the outer races into the freezer for a few hours, and before installing them, I hit the hub with a torch for a minute or so. While they don't exactly fall right in, it was way easier than getting the old ones out. Click image for larger version. 

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    sent from Utah.
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  16. #1566
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    2,738
    Took care of the weeble wobble up front. Need to get some new rear brake shoes in there. Manana.
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    sent from Utah.
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  17. #1567
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    4,241
    My 100-series needs a “birthday” on its IFS, per trustworthy mechanic. Been putting that off, because not urgent in my mind, though I guess it’ll help with the rack. Just starting to develop occasional squeaks at 240k. I don’t have time to stumble through it anytime soon, don’t have good flat “shade tree” spot at home, or tools for some of it. Also, not clear to me where to start/prioritize or possibly piece together the work.... advice/thoughts/feelings?

  18. #1568
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Der Town
    Posts
    6,382
    Send me a pm with your digits and we can talk about it. Probably just needs some new bushings and stuff

  19. #1569
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    2,738
    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    My 100-series needs a “birthday” on its IFS, per trustworthy mechanic. Been putting that off, because not urgent in my mind, though I guess it’ll help with the rack. Just starting to develop occasional squeaks at 240k. I don’t have time to stumble through it anytime soon, don’t have good flat “shade tree” spot at home, or tools for some of it. Also, not clear to me where to start/prioritize or possibly piece together the work.... advice/thoughts/feelings?
    On mine with 235k, it was feeling pretty loose. New sway bar bushings and end links tightened it up, but the ifs arms are still loose. Much bigger job to replace those. Loose front wheel bearings can make it feel real looks, and lead to bigger problems if not addressed. Pop the front end in the air and grab the wheel at 10 and 2 and try to wobble the wheel. If it has play, likely due for new front wheel bearings. If you are getting drive line knock on the front, a little is normal in the driveshaft at that age, but you may be due for a new bushing in the front diff mount. I haven't tackled that on mine yet. New steering rack bushings also helped a ton. Seriously.
    Here are videos showing before and after with new rack bushings.

    Before....
    https://youtu.be/EuzbAoIot0Q

    After...
    https://youtu.be/FIj5QSJczbA

    sent from Utah.
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  20. #1570
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    4,241
    Thanks for the responses. I need to go back and look through my notes.

  21. #1571
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    2,738
    Finally got around to fixing the cracked lenses on the drivers side headlight. I must have driven through a gravel storm on the freeway, cause I got a big windshield chip, and both headlight lenses cracked, one with a bonified hole in it. So got a used headlight, polished the glass, and put it in. When I bought the car, it came with a couple of new smoked corner lights. I'm usually not too keen on the smoked look, but decided what the hell, let's see, so I threw them in.
    Also, failed emissions yesterday at idle, high on hc, so misfire at idle. With the AC on, it was fine, but with ac off, yep, there was a miss. In the spring I had a bad CCV or pcv, and replaced it, but had not changed the plugs. On this car the CCV sits at the back of the intake manifold and dumps the gunk into the intake right above the intake horns for the back two cylinders. Changed all 8 plugs, and wouldn't you know it... both of the back 2 plugs were fouled. Misfire is gone. Sitting on the sofa at the emissions place now. Oh yeah, cats on the car were gutted by some clown, so there is that. Fingers crossed.
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    sent from Utah.
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  22. #1572
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    2,738
    Fail. Wtf.

    sent from Utah.
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  23. #1573
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    699
    Selling a 78k original mile, 5 speed, 2.8 Quattro A4. Real clean inside and out. Needs tires and a few minor things to be perfect. Lot's a service records since new. I'm the second owner. Timing belt, rear main seal and more done @ 75k.

    Holler for more details. Located in the Bay Area, CA.

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  24. #1574
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    In the shadow of the wasatch
    Posts
    2,776
    Fuck! Went to change oil on my 06 tundra and hood latch cable broke. Fuckassmutherfucker
    Bunny Don't Surf

  25. #1575
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    8,247
    Changed the oil, filter and air filter in my Tacoma. No pics cause I was cooking dinner at the same time. Sometimes I miss working on cars...until I have to change the oil in my Tacoma.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

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