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  1. #101
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    West Coast of the East Coast
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    6,391
    Spent half the day today taking the computer and coil pack off my Yamaha OX66 200 on my old boat pictured below. I brought this boat to my buddy for a service, and 2 months later, we are still chasing a ghost. He isn't charging me any labor, but he is about ready to get rid of it.

    So anyway, completely removed the computer and coils, replaced with the computer and coil pack from another OX66 he has in the shop, and took it for a run. No change in performance. Idles like shit, and loses rpm at WOT. Made a call to Yamaha on the way back, and the guy is sure it is the O2 sensor.

    Now, my buddy is doing this for parts cost, so no hard feelings, but I told him that I thought it was the O2 a while back. He was pissed when the tech confirmed it. He did find a pin hole in the exhaust that was letting water into one or two cylinders, which may be the culprit of the bad O2. He also replaced the head covers, which in retrospect probably didn't need to be done. He also replaced all the low pressure pumps, and impeller, and serviced everything.
    I am praying the O2 fixes the problem. I am so ready to sell this thing, but don't want to try to sell a turd. Whoever gets this thing will be getting a damn good deal. This service would have ended up running at least $2500 without the hookup.

  2. #102
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    Dec 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Obstruction View Post
    Btw - those Gen 3 Camrys are about as bulletproof as any car I've ever owned. My kids did some unspeakable shit to the one we owned and we always managed to resurrect it.
    Hers only has 100k on it, and she still loves it. A timing belt here, some exhaust work there, it just purrs along. <knock wood> I get all kinds of props for the minor wrenching.
    Jesus rides beside me, he never buys any smokes.

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Watching over the valley
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    2,626
    Gettin busy. Got the valves adjusted the other day, and today tore apart the timing belt and replaced the cam seal and the rest of the stuff off. Little clean up, and it'll be ready to get all the new stuff put on. Water pump, tensioner pulley, crank seal, intermediate shaft seal. Looks like it was leaking at the cam seal before, so gonna go through some simple green and brake cleaner to get it all lookin purty.

    I also ordered up a new upholstery set to redo all the seats in the car with new materials.

    Suspension by H & R is in the mail. Bushings, end links and all that jazz looks pretty good,so not gonna mess with that shit.

    This car will be for sale soon, any mags wanna toss an early offer into the mix? ☺️









    Last edited by basinbeater; 06-02-2017 at 12:12 AM.
    sigless.

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    1,038
    $37

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Behind the Zion Curtain
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    3,012
    You should get a new trouble light, those incandescent ones are dangerous to work around cars with.

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Sandy
    Posts
    1,061
    Quote Originally Posted by BobMc View Post
    You should get a new trouble light, those incandescent ones are dangerous to work around cars with.
    No joke. Guy I went to HS with got 3rd degree burns on something like half his body. Drop of gas landed on the bulb and ignited the tank...

  7. #107
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    Dec 2005
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    It's got one of those twirly light bulbs in it, not an incandescent one. And I have another one that is a long skinny fluorescent. No incandescent bulbs in my garage.
    sigless.

  8. #108
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    Dec 2005
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    More pics...

    sigless.

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
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    Behind the Zion Curtain
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    3,012
    If you're that far in it might not be a bad idea to replace that thermostat housing, the bottom hose fitting has a habit of loosening in it's bore and coming out, it looks like it's leaking there already. Iirc you might have to pop the injector rail up a bit to get it out, otherwise pretty straight forward.

    Good on the no incandescent, lotta shops have burned down from those things.

  10. #110
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    Dec 2005
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    Watching over the valley
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    Yeah, I was gonna a pull the housing, I have new gaskets sitting on the bench.
    sigless.

  11. #111
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    tourin BC
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    2,780
    My 98 chevy auto with 454 motor needed brake work. Shit that thing has more torque at idle than my yota hilux did at wot. So I asked my boss if his mechanic was busy. Boss said he'd chargee him out at $30 per hour ... sold !!! I wish I got him to do a total full service.. I was working 10-12 hour days so it seemed like a good deal so I could sled weekends. Mechanic said it was a bitch to work on .... I bet it was.. shop rates here are $100+ per hour .... fark tthat ...

  12. #112
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    The Mayonnaisium
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    7,030
    Snapped this pic a few months back. Guy said it was his wife's first car.


  13. #113
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    YetiMan
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    10,590
    So my 351M is using a lot of oil but not visibly leaking or smoking. Good oil pressure, runs like a scalded ape, but also has a maddening lifter tick....or what sounds to me like a lifter tick. I'm on a tight budget...considering doing a day or two worth of fiddling around pulling the intake and replacing lifters, pushrods, and valve guide seals.

    Buddy also speculated the stock ford fuel pump may push fuel through the edelbrock carb, leading to gassy fuel and subsequent thinning and burnoff.

    Any thoughts, intertoob geniuses?

  14. #114
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    Dec 2005
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    Before too do all that work, I'd do a leak down test? Can the valves be adjusted or shimmed?
    sigless.

  15. #115
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    Nov 2004
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    YetiMan
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    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Before too do all that work, I'd do a leak down test? Can the valves be adjusted or shimmed?
    adjusted no. Shimmed = "I think so".

    leakdown test will go on the agenda.

  16. #116
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    738
    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Yay for powder coating.
    I was thinking of sanding the raised edges off to be aluminum colored, but I am lazy, and actually quite like the all black.
    I may have a semi.

  17. #117
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    738
    I lied.
    I couldn't be bothered to do this last weekend.
    Blame the gin.



    I do enjoy using the proper tools for the job.



    Getting that 18 year old gasket off took the better part of an hour.

    [

    Does blood bettter approximate to Locktite red or blue?



    Anyone who thinks a PC in the garage is a bad idea is fucking wrong.



    Boom. I'm sure that's just coincidence.

    Last edited by YourMomJustCalled; 06-03-2017 at 10:43 PM.

  18. #118
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    Dec 2009
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    The Mayonnaisium
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    7,030
    Quote Originally Posted by ill-advised strategy View Post
    So my 351M is using a lot of oil but not visibly leaking or smoking. Good oil pressure, runs like a scalded ape, but also has a maddening lifter tick....or what sounds to me like a lifter tick. I'm on a tight budget...considering doing a day or two worth of fiddling around pulling the intake and replacing lifters, pushrods, and valve guide seals.

    Buddy also speculated the stock ford fuel pump may push fuel through the edelbrock carb, leading to gassy fuel and subsequent thinning and burnoff.

    Any thoughts, intertoob geniuses?
    What is a lot of oil? Catalytic converter? Any smoke or pressure from the crankcase?

    Do you mean buddy thinks gas is making it into the crankcase? I'm not sure any fuel evaporation would take oil with it, and it seems more like a significant amount of fuel making it into the crankcase would increase the fluid level seen on the dipstick ('make oil') as opposed to reduce it.

  19. #119
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    Dec 2009
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    The Mayonnaisium
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    7,030
    Nice work on the LR water pump. Looks like the garage might be cool, too.

  20. #120
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    Dec 2005
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    Yeah I need to get a designated laptop for the garage. Indispensable these days. Oh, and your mom, you might want to look into some of these....


    Cheap Cheap Cheap, comfy, good grip and dexterity, goodbye skinned knuckles, burned hands, and dirty hands.
    sigless.

  21. #121
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Granite, UT
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    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Yeah I need to get a designated laptop for the garage. Indispensable these days. Oh, and your mom, you might want to look into some of these....


    Cheap Cheap Cheap, comfy, good grip and dexterity, goodbye skinned knuckles, burned hands, and dirty hands.
    The garage PC has been invaluable for keeping PDFs of all the manuals, tunes, as well as allowing me to consult the forums for quick info. For instance, yesterday it only took me thirty seconds to confirm my belt routing was correct before I reapplied the tensioner.

    I'd stay away from a laptop though, I usually just grab an an old corporate pc for a $100 or so off of eBay and pair it with an old 4x3 LCD monitor from the classifieds, a cheap keyboard and track ball mouse. I'd worry that a laptop would get goobered up too easily.







    As for gloves, I've tried but can't deal with the feel. My hands are already ruined from work and mountain biking so the occasional bleeder isn't a big deal. OTOH, not being able to finger and the wife for a few days might be interesting.
    Last edited by YourMomJustCalled; 06-04-2017 at 06:43 PM.

  22. #122
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    Nov 2004
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    YetiMan
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    10,590
    Quote Originally Posted by Mazderati View Post
    What is a lot of oil? Catalytic converter? Any smoke or pressure from the crankcase?

    Do you mean buddy thinks gas is making it into the crankcase? I'm not sure any fuel evaporation would take oil with it, and it seems more like a significant amount of fuel making it into the crankcase would increase the fluid level seen on the dipstick ('make oil') as opposed to reduce it.
    A lot of oil like a quart in 300 miles or thereabouts. No cats, headers to duals.
    Yes, gas thinning the oil was a guess as to why it's using so much. It's giving me no reason to believe there's a lot of blow by. Again, it doesn't smoke or leak and the plugs don't show rich or oil-fouled. I don't know...it's not a big deal really, I guess.

  23. #123
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    Dec 2005
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    Still crackin on the little 325. Watched a movie with the kids and took the opportunity to remove the old cracked leather from the rear seats. New upholstery for front and rear seats should arrive by Monday next week. Not looking forward to it honestly. Fucking nightmares about hog rings. I did a pair of Porsche seats back when I was like 19, and they turned out pretty nice, but what a pain in the ass it was. The pics below show the seat covers that came on the car over top of the leather, really not too bad of a cover, but not what I am looking for for a finished car.
    sigless.

  24. #124
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    4,616
    Had a slowly rotting battery cable in the 996 that produced hard starts when heat soaked (sometimes). Eventually got a few squeals from the starter & figured it would be wise to replace both, rather than let it grind the related gear & require a tranny drop.

    I'm generally an idiot with these things, and the 2-part job only takes the dealership ~8 hours or more. Throw in OEM parts with markup and I could either pay $2k for a shop to do it or $175 do it myself. Good spot to step up the wrenching & save some $$$.

    before
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    the easy stuff, airbox removed along with intake hose & MAF disconnected
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    one of my favorite parts on the car, IPD plenum.. helps induction airflow & sound
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    the parts being replaced are in a great spot.. under the intake manifolds and above the block, behind the alternator & A/C compressor. Taking the idler pulley off to access the alternator
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    sweet - broke a connection point on a solenoid vacuum line! Some of the plastics used in hose fittings rot about every 10-15 years, kind of disappointing they're not copper but they are inexpensive to replace. May have this one fixed by the local shop while I travel next week.
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    the most urgent of the 2 repairs and the victim of the first - new starter motor.
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    With the old starter out you can see its gear connection point inside the case. Nice & obscure location that requires several feet of extensions.
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    New starter motor in along with the new battery cable
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    Working backwards. Had to reference the DIY guide for the alternator. As I found out, the alternator removal takes around an hour to do it carefully for the first time. Putting it back in was about 90 minutes..... the tolerance is so tight & there's barely enough room to house the thing. Despite the sore legs & back it worked out ok.
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    all back together, with the exception of a $4 vacuum line I need to do. Don't have enough miles down to know if the right cable was replaced, but it's running well. Hopefully after fixing the vacuum line it'll be good for the rest of the season. Right about 12k miles last season and about 2k into this year. Oil change next month most likely.
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    no ragrets
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  25. #125
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    100'F and Muggy
    Posts
    587
    Quote Originally Posted by ill-advised strategy View Post
    A lot of oil like a quart in 300 miles or thereabouts. No cats, headers to duals.
    Yes, gas thinning the oil was a guess as to why it's using so much. It's giving me no reason to believe there's a lot of blow by. Again, it doesn't smoke or leak and the plugs don't show rich or oil-fouled. I don't know...it's not a big deal really, I guess.
    The old fuel in the oil trick on 351M's is due to the mechanical fuel pump ' s diaphragm leaking fuel into the crankcase. Pull the filler cap off and stick your nose in the hole. A minor hint of gas smell is normal. If it makes your eyes water, you need a pump. Bonus points for fixing before you eat a bearing (gasoline is a really poor lubricant)

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