Results 401 to 425 of 5882
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01-17-2018, 07:11 PM #401Registered User
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- Aug 2013
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- shadow of HS butte
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- 6,439
I have some oil cooler hoses leaking like a sieve. luckily they're the short lines that run from the filter to the radiator and i shouldn't need to jack the engine up…. although I'm thinking it would be a good idea to replace all the hoses while I'm in there. should be fun. maybe do the motor mounts at the same time too.
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01-17-2018, 07:32 PM #402Registered User
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- Mar 2009
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- 3,282
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01-17-2018, 08:48 PM #403
Yeah, I have had oil Ines and stainless brake lines made by evco house of hose in Salt Lake, and it has saved money each time. They also have a great selection of hose clamps.
sigless.
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01-23-2018, 07:01 PM #404
Speaking of saving money... Gotta spend to save right? $80 for the set. I I always thought these were some of the best looking wheels made by Toyota, and they bolt right up on the 80. Now to find a deal on tires.
sigless.
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01-25-2018, 09:50 PM #405
Put BDS Fox 2.0s on the F350. Actually went pretty smooth. Haven't driven it yet but nothing can be worse than the Ranchos so I'm sure it'll be an improvement.
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01-25-2018, 10:27 PM #406Registered User
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- Mar 2009
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- 3,282
This is me not wrenching. Daughter hit a curb and bent a control arm and a destroyed wheel. Local suspension shop said $310 out the door for used lca, labor and alignment. I ain't touching shit to save $150 for labor during winter time. Now just need to find a used rim for the tank to replace the spare.
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01-26-2018, 12:18 PM #407
www.car-parts.com
Junkyard parts locator. Put in location, make model and part you want (wheel) it will show you which junkyard has it. You can sort by proximity.
Good call on skipping the CA job at that price - if the shop does decent work.Damn, we're in a tight spot!
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01-26-2018, 02:05 PM #408Registered User
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- Mar 2009
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- 3,282
Been using them for years. Old school suspension shop that was recommended by a friend who owns a body shop about 20 years ago. They marked up the used control arm a few bucks but they gotta make money and i didn't have to buy a specialized Mercedes telescopic spring compressor for a $100 or risk losing an eye shade treeing that thing. For $85 I'm not even going to search, after market ones are around $60-200 so I'll just be happy with a drivable 21 year old car for $310.00 plus a Craigs list wheel I need to round up for a spare.
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01-26-2018, 02:32 PM #409Banned
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Golden
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- 3,379
Buy a OBDII scanner and see what comes up yourself. ~$100
Our '08 Outback XT regularly has the CEL come on (which is three lights one of them flashing sometimes), keeps the intelligent drive from being switched to sport #, etc...A scan will show bank 1 lean...did a little research and found the mass airflow sensor gets dirty and causes this code. Pull the sensor with one screw on top of the air intake, clean it with a q-tip, clear the code.
Done. Paid for itself in one use.
And the scanner works on 4 of our 5 vehicles...the '89 F-250 has a OBDI plug.
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01-26-2018, 03:26 PM #410Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
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- 1,747
Or this an the Torque app.
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products.../dp/B005NLQAHS
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01-26-2018, 11:24 PM #411
For bimmers I got a Bluetooth obd2 adapter and the Carly program. It can program. Any computer in the car, changing behavior of window systems, locking systems, program batteries, reset service indicators and a whole bunch other stuff.
sigless.
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01-27-2018, 09:34 PM #412
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01-27-2018, 10:53 PM #413
That bank 1 lean code on a turbo Subaru can also mean that it's actually lean. Often caused by a leak somewhere between the maf and turbo. The turbo inlets like to rip right where they clamp onto the turbo. That is a bad thing and can result in excessive knock, which leads to cracked ringlands and other broken stuff inside the engine.
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01-28-2018, 08:54 PM #414Banned
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- Apr 2012
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- Golden
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Thanks. I'll check that out. Is a starting tear visible somehow?
The turbo was replaced awhile back when those damn sintered filters the dealer didn't even know about starved it and it blew.
When I clean the airflow sensor the code goes away which is why I left it at that.
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01-28-2018, 09:21 PM #415
You might be able to tell by loosening up the clamp and sliding it back a bit or poking at it a bit with a screwdriver or long pick. But maybe not. It could also be torn or folded over on the bottom and you wouldn't be able to tell without removing the inlet. Swapping the inlet is kind of a hassle and with an oem replacement you usually have to remove the whole manifold. BUT, if the turbo replacement was somewhat recent you can be like "hey, I've been getting a CEL and my inlet is torn and you guys were the last people to touch it" and they might give you a break on fixing it.
Of course it could be something else. Vacuum leak at the manifold, exhaust leak, or the replacement front o2 sensor was a cheap non-oem part and is bad. Additionally sometimes you just need to put a new maf in these cars. Even with cleaning they somehow go off a bit.
Between the maf and turbo is the only place for unmetered air to leak into the system under load and cause a lean condition because it is under a slight vacuum. Anywhere past the turbo will leak out under boost and make it run rich.Last edited by jamal; 01-28-2018 at 09:50 PM.
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01-29-2018, 08:02 AM #416
Not mine, Thank god.
A friend bit off a little much over the weekend.
1974 Bronco- 3 on the tree- better than Lowjack
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01-30-2018, 12:18 AM #417
I managed to crack my windshield fixing a wiper linkage on Saturday.
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01-30-2018, 11:31 AM #418
69 Opel GT. Everything in the world from transmissions, engine swap from a 1.1 to a 1.9, reworked head and cam, rear-end swap, rewired front to back.
In order to properly convert this thread to a polyasshat thread to more fully enrage the liberal left frequenting here...... (insert latest democratic blunder of your choice).
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02-05-2018, 09:51 AM #419Registered User
- Join Date
- Sep 2015
- Location
- OR
- Posts
- 74
Changed out belts on the 1997 Land Cruiser before the game yesterday, ratcheting wrenches would have made life easier but overall it was pretty painless.
It's a lot quieter but I still have an occasional squeal between 1.5k-2k rpm. Gonna re-tension the belts after a few more miles and see if that fixes it, if it was a pulley I'd think the squealing would be constant but maybe not.
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02-05-2018, 11:04 AM #420
Quality, matching belts? A spray bottle can be used to squirt water on the insides of the belt to discern belt squeal from bearing.
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02-05-2018, 12:26 PM #421Registered User
- Join Date
- Sep 2015
- Location
- OR
- Posts
- 74
Belts were from Napa and the serial numbers were reasonably close (they came in a 2 pack). I've had good luck with Napa products so far but maybe I need to go OEM.
I'll troubleshoot with your spray bottle trick, thanks.
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02-05-2018, 11:25 PM #422
Threw some Fox BDS 2.0's on the F350. Per tradition, I missed the shock towers/bushings on all four corners when cutting the retention tape, turning an easy job into a real knuckle scraper.
Truck rides much, much better now. Pretty stoked on the results and value."All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never, ever be boring."
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02-07-2018, 08:09 AM #423
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02-09-2018, 01:06 AM #424
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02-21-2018, 12:05 PM #425
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