Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[mcphee]

What the fuck are you talking about? Silicone has been used to aid in the installation of rubber sealing components in fluid delivery since before you and me put together.

Water and oil don’t mix, Todd. When an oil based substance is used as a lubricant on the inside diameter of a hose to aid in installation, it creates a film that will cause an incomplete seal when clamped. Water being a heavier substance and under pressure will push that oil based film out and cause a leak.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[fatnslow]

I like your style! Solid plan. I'll reach out to the dude. It's about 80 miles away. No biggie but I'll need a ride in case I end up taking it home so prolly can't go til Thursday. Needs smog tests where he is so maybe why the fair price. No smog checks in my hood tho! And yeah, no worries about selling cats here either AFAIK.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

Those are direct injection and known for having carbon deposit issues ok n the intake valves so be aware. I think there are diy solutions for it other than the walnut shell blasting shops offer. My aunt has one and they drive like a gocart !! Hers is around 05ish but only has 25k miles. I have told her DO NOT SELL TO ANYONE BUT ME ....

[Buzzworthy]

Also found an '05 Mini Cooper S with only like 130K for $3500. Possibly bad cats (or O2 sensors) but is in way better shape. That's a fun car but I'd probably be tempting fate with that one. Turbo goes bad and I'm screwed on the value. SO many issues with the Coopers but at least they're damn fun to drive... When they're not bankrupting you with repairs that is.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

Got one of those for our daughter 8 months ago. $3k, 95k miles.
She decided to see how hard a curb actually is and after jacking it up, appears to have bent the lower control arm. It’s throwing a P1498 code too. Beyond what i can do. Let’s see what this is about to cost

[Todd Zander]

Water and oil don’t mix, Todd. When an oil based substance is used as a lubricant on the inside diameter of a hose to aid in installation, it creates a film that will cause an incomplete seal when clamped. Water being a heavier substance and under pressure will push that oil based film out and cause a leak.

Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

So all silicone in a can is oil based?

[mcphee]

Make your point, nerd.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Timberridge]

If you want a wrecked car to fix get a copart account and bid with the rest of the scrappers. You never know what you will find.

Here's a 488 for free...
https://www.copart.com/lot/69328151/...ny-long-island

[refried]

There's a product made just for hose assembly, I have a bottle from Yamaha but most OEM manufacturers have a similar product or a recommendation.

[fatnslow]

If there really is interest in the whole hose assembly lube question just PM timber. If I remember right he has a petroleum background and knows all kinds of shit about dyno vs. synthetic as in use astro glide for prison luv not vaseline or don't make fried chicken with mobil1 synthetic... Some really good real life do's and don't.

[mcphee]

Yea, I really fucked up by categorizing all silicones as oil based and now I got a Todd on my ass about it. Which is the 2nd time he’s got all cunty about silicone here. My bad, I guess I’ll have to consider the pedants in my advice. My point still stands is that a shade tree mechanic needs to make sure that coolant hose assembly aids be water soluble and the most readily available home solution is dish soap.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[gravitylover]

For general use (like putting grips on bike handlebars) I've used soap or hair spray depending on the rubber composition and what it will be coming in contact with in the future. I don't often use silicone or teflon, I usually use lube specific to the purpose.

[fatnslow]

Hmmm, I guess I've been doing it wrong for about 40 years. My choices were either straight spit or chew spit for just about everything.

[mcphee]

For general use (like putting grips on bike handlebars) I've used soap or hair spray depending on the rubber composition and what it will be coming in contact with in the future. I don't often use silicone or teflon, I usually use lube specific to the purpose.

The Todd’s of the world would be proud!

[gravitylover]

I dunno, being an idiot AND not knowing what the fuck I'm doing, I usually figure that I'm good enough at ruining shit already that I don't need to make a bigger mess by using something that will dissolve or corrode the parts I'm working with. Dumb but not that dumb... Well, maybe

[mcphee]

Give yourself some credit, you’re wrestling a monster most DIY guys have nightmares about. You might be having nightmares about it too but you’re facing them. Good on you. And just so you know, those brittle plastic bits you’re worried about breaking…pro mechanics will probably break them too.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[uglymoney]

I actually ordered one of those cameras a little while ago figuring it might help.


I like the dish soap idea. Then when it leaks again it will be self cleaning

Well yeah, I'm partially trying to avoid all of the broken plastic bits and vacuum hoses that are likely to break during disassembly and reassembly making it take five times as long while I wait for more parts. The shop that was so anxious to take my money to do it seems to have changed his mind as he looked into it so, other than having it towed to the LR Indy and probably costing a few $k more than estimate because of old broken shit, it's coming down to me making it work.

Someone posted this pic for me though and if it's the hose seen it can't be accessed on both sides but the longer one underneath can. From feeling around back there though I still think it's either one of those elbows or possibly one of the small hoses that go to the throttle body. That would actually be the easiest because it's fully exposed.

This is a gross overthink imo.

I use straight Vaseline from the jar in the bathroom. 100k on the Subaru since all hoses and the other shit went back together and no issues. Without that hack it would be just f f f f f f f fuck.

Fuel line loosener clamps from harbor freight might be helpful also

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk

[MontuckyFried]

Those are direct injection and known for having carbon deposit issues ok n the intake valves so be aware. I think there are diy solutions for it other than the walnut shell blasting shops offer. My aunt has one and they drive like a gocart !! Hers is around 05ish but only has 25k miles. I have told her DO NOT SELL TO ANYONE BUT ME ....

Right on. Thanks for intel. I might pop up and go see it tonight if I can coordinate. Supposedly has a stack of maintenance records, but as with anything BMW related is simultaneously good AND scary.

[mcphee]

This is a gross overthink imo.

I use straight Vaseline from the jar in the bathroom. 100k on the Subaru since all hoses and the other shit went back together and no issues. Without that hack it would be just f f f f f f f fuck.

Fuel line loosener clamps from harbor freight might be helpful also

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk

BOLD!


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[MontuckyFried]

This is a gross overthink imo.

I use straight Vaseline from the jar in the bathroom. 100k on the Subaru since all hoses and the other shit went back together and no issues. Without that hack it would be just f f f f f f f fuck.

LMAO. That's my move too. Been just fine for me as well.

[mcphee]

It says external use only on the jar, fellas. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Timberridge]

If there really is interest in the whole hose assembly lube question just PM timber. If I remember right he has a petroleum background and knows all kinds of shit about dyno vs. synthetic as in use astro glide for prison luv not vaseline or don't make fried chicken with mobil1 synthetic... Some really good real life do's and don't.

What you guys lube your hoses with is a personal preference.

[MontuckyFried]

And NOW this thread is proper PR material. Thanks for teh lulz, guys.

[refried]

I learned in Volvo Penta school Vaseline is the recommended method to install needle bearings, It's sticky enough to keep them in place while placing them in the race and disappears once the oil is warm. I always kept a jar on the shelf above my workbench and it was asked about more than once.

[mcphee]

OEMs are getting pickier and pickier about assembly aids. Can’t just use any old grease for keeping needle bearings, thrust washers, shims, etc. in place during assembly these days. I think we have 4 or 5 different approved assembly greases available for different oils and oil additives to be used in the component due to contamination control guidelines. But these are OE specs to attempt a perfect environment since we’re in the age of remote fleet monitoring and regular fluid sample intervals to prediagnose wear and predict when a component will need a rebuild.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[fatnslow]

I have a very minor vibration while accelerating on my beater Odyssey that's well documented as a possible worn CV axle that I thought I would attack Saturday. What should have been a 2 hours max job of course turns into an all day adventure, F-me. While trying to separate the ball joint my splitter cracks, castle nut is damaged and a torn ball joint boot. I call/stop by 3 parts stores and all get the same answers, "we don't have metric castle nuts and we don't sell ball joint boots, only ball joints.".
Hell no I ain't replacing the ball joint cause it's pressed into the lca.
End up heading to the junk yard to source the castle nut and ball joint boot, 45 minutes to reinstall the axle, boot and button shit up after pretty much spending all afternoon running around.
My rational for working in it was I skied Friday afternoon and knew it was going to be pretty firm all day on the hill and my old joints can't take two days of firmness nor do I enjoy it.
I guess I should have just skied and have my body abused a bit rather than fucking with my car.

[MontuckyFried]

I have a very minor vibration while accelerating on my beater Odyssey that's well documented as a possible worn CV axle that I thought I would attack Saturday. What should have been a 2 hours max job of course turns into an all day adventure, F-me. While trying to separate the ball joint my splitter cracks, castle nut is damaged and a torn ball joint boot. I call/stop by 3 parts stores and all get the same answers, "we don't have metric castle nuts and we don't sell ball joint boots, only ball joints.".
Hell no I ain't replacing the ball joint cause it's pressed into the lca.
End up heading to the junk yard to source the castle nut and ball joint boot, 45 minutes to reinstall the axle, boot and button shit up after pretty much spending all afternoon running around.
My rational for working in it was I skied Friday afternoon and knew it was going to be pretty firm all day on the hill and my old joints can't take two days of firmness nor do I enjoy it.
I guess I should have just skied and have my body abused a bit rather than fucking with my car.

Dang. What a pain. On the plus side, you at least avoided getting royally bent over by the dealer or any shop on that job, though! Would likely not have been cheap so good on ya. SO annoying trying to source stupid little parts like those little metric castle nuts when you'd think they'd be easy to find anywhere. NOPE!