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  1. #401
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    I smell poutine!!!
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    9,345
    I am trying to avoid perforating the wall. It's in a hallway. Right now it's behind a bookcase. However, in 4-5 years the kids will all be in college and we will be considering a downsize move. The easiest is to install one of those plastic access panels. And put the bookcase back over it. Then I can rig up whatever spacer I want. As well as having access for any future repairs. The master 3/4 bath now has an access panel in one wall of the vanity alcove due to access issues for repairs. This house sucks. Repairs are one thing. Repairing someone else's kludge sucks balls because it usually all falls apart once you touch it.

  2. #402
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    I smell poutine!!!
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    9,345
    In my mind the thing I want looks like a C clamp but has the turning handle inside the C.

  3. #403
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    1,410
    Quote Originally Posted by riser3 View Post
    In my mind the thing I want looks like a C clamp but has the turning handle inside the C.
    Well maybe you could rig something like that with a jaw turnbuckle, but I don't think that's the best answer. However, to each McGuyver his own.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #404
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    5,884
    I have a new favorite:
    https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...enches/2767-20


    Been wrenching on my cars a lot lately and this beast has cut down my working time SIGNIFICANTLY. Removes decades old, corroded bolts like a hot knife through butter. It's unbelievable the torque this thing has. HIGHLY recommended. After having no luck using a breaker bar, then a buddies pneumatic impact wrench, I sucked it up and bought the Milwaukee. Now I use it pretty much every chance I can. It's pretty much a cheat code for working on your car.

  5. #405
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    16,222
    Quote Originally Posted by riser3 View Post
    I need a spreader device. It will be one use, so it has to be cheaper than ripping a wall apart and repairing the sheetrock. It needs to be about an inch long and I need to be able to operate it by touch blind up inside a wall. It has to stay in place once expanded. It is replacing a piece of wood. The fucknuts who installed the tub for the previous owner well over 20 years ago did mega kludges. The faucet valve is not mounted to anything. When I was pushing and pulling to replace the valve core, it knocked loose a piece of wood. They probably figured friction would be constant over time. That piece of wood was pushing the pipe away from the shower wall so that the faucet was snug. Now there's a big gap. Fuckers. I can't find the piece of wood, it fell in there somewhere. I am able to get my arm up in the wall through the ceiling of the bathroom directly below it. When they did some "remodeling" they ripped the ceiling apart and put a hanging ceiling in the downstairs bathroom. I don't really have the patience to keep cutting pieces of wood until I find the right size. It's an educated guess that the previous shim was wood based on the sound it made when it fell down. FML.
    You said it needs to be about an inch long -- can it be longer? And how wide of a gap do you need to fill?

    Could you knock a wedge in place? Something like this, or even a doorstop? (smear glue on the outside to help hold in place?)

    https://www.zoro.com/precision-brand...xoCNFMQAvD_BwE
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  6. #406
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    I smell poutine!!!
    Posts
    9,345
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    You said it needs to be about an inch long -- can it be longer? And how wide of a gap do you need to fill?

    Could you knock a wedge in place? Something like this, or even a doorstop? (smear glue on the outside to help hold in place?)

    https://www.zoro.com/precision-brand...xoCNFMQAvD_BwE
    The space I estimate around an inch. Doorstop is a good idea, thanks, even if just to use to measure the actual thiccness, because I can't see it. Not sure about adhesive, it's going between copper pipe and the back of a one piece shower-tub that is fiberglass/gelcoat. I will probably put it on a string to the nearby stud if nothing else so it doesn't get lost when it falls out. I guess this went from a tool question to something that belongs in the home repair thread.

  7. #407
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    664
    Riser- maybe something like this could work? I searched “mini scissor jack” and see a variety of things like this.

    YaeTek 4" x 4" 100mm Stainless Steel Lab Scissor Jack Stand Platform LAB Lift Laboratory Jack Rack Lifter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BXHY3MM..._0pmkEb5TBSCZZ

    My first attempt would be to use some wood shims. Attach a two strips of half-inch plywood to one of the shims parallel to the copper pipe, straddling the pipe so it won’t move. Put the other shim between the shower and the shim/pipe, and slide it until it’s snug.
    Dude chill its the padded room. -AKPM

  8. #408
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bellevue
    Posts
    5,298

  9. #409
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    2,389

  10. #410
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    land of the free
    Posts
    8,832
    Quote Originally Posted by Brownskii View Post
    Somebody here should be able to guess why this still a favorite of mine
    Attachment 302612
    That is a great idea. Put a wrench on the tails of your wrench for max clampage
    “Life has become immeasurably better since I have been forced to stop taking it seriously.”
    Hunter S. Thompson

  11. #411
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    land of the free
    Posts
    8,832
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Attachment 302624

    +

    Attachment 302625

    I used my makita cordless drill to drive my LEM Sausage Stuffer the other day. Pretty impressed with the results.
    I hate screw drive or kitchenaid stuffers.
    Old school manual plunger is faster to fill and to stuff.
    Unless you have some weird crazy thick chunky shit, maybe

    This is closest I could find to what have had for generations
    https://www.lemproducts.com/product/...usage-stuffers
    “Life has become immeasurably better since I have been forced to stop taking it seriously.”
    Hunter S. Thompson

  12. #412
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    PRB
    Posts
    22,092
    this might be my favorite tool

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    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin

  13. #413
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    The Cone of Uncertainty
    Posts
    47,965
    We have that same one. it would be a lot better if I could somehow teach my wife how you clean the accumulated coffee out of the grinding chute thingie or I could remember to clean it out at night because she gets up earlier than me and every few weeks it won't work because it's clogged and I have to drag my ass out of bed at the crack of dawn to clean it. It's not like it's complicated or hard to do, she's just convinced herself she can't do it. But other than that it's good.

  14. #414
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    4,566
    my less fancy cuisinart coffee maker stopped working a few weeks ago. no water was dripping. I disassembled the thing and started messing around with my multimeter. I found (and learned about) the thermal fuse, which was toast. i bought a fuse (less than $1) and soldered it in place using the soldering iron recommended by iceman several pages back (THANKS! - twas a b-day gift a few months ago). wham bam, got a functional drop coffee maker again. are thermal fuses part of planned obsolescence?

  15. #415
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    516
    Clean / inspect the water reservoir regularly. I had one too, best coffee maker I ever had. Loved waking up to the sound of the grinder going in the morning.

    I guess this goes for all coffee machines..

    Eventually noticed my coffee was tasting off. When I started feeling ill after drinking coffee out of it I found a couple of dead spiders and curl-up (pill?) bugs had gotten trapped and died in the reservoir.

    Steeped bug coffee is not recommended.

  16. #416
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    4,566
    Run vinegar through it occasionally to clean the system

  17. #417
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    11,715
    A coffee maker is not a tool. Man up.

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