when Junior was wrenching the very large electric motors he got an electric impact wrench, he claims it is better than air unless you you have spent +400$ on an air wrench
when Junior was wrenching the very large electric motors he got an electric impact wrench, he claims it is better than air unless you you have spent +400$ on an air wrench
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
I’ve got the Dewalt 120v corded 1/2” impact wrench. It’s ok. I mostly use it for seasonal tire changes. It’s disappointing how often it won’t break free a lug but which easily will spin with a breaker bar. My cheap old pneumatic wrench will break studs off, but my current compressor doesn’t have the CFM to keep up with it.
Ya well he used them in an industrial app, i'm talking about motor s big enough to walk thru, I duno what brand BUT
they were red
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Battery powered impact wrench
Made plugging a punctured tire not suck this nipply morn
I might be gay because I think the LEM catalogue is sexier than the Vic Secret one.
So the Essential Craftsman turned me on to the Burke Bar - I think Archimedes must have had one when he said " give me a place to stand and a lever long enough and I will move the world"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JnMO6-ql8o
And btw the Essential Craftsman channel is worth a look if you're into construction, blacksmithing, or folk wisdom!
I have an old Craftsman wood chipper which I was pretty pleased with this weekend. It’s got an 8hp B&S motor. The recoil starter crapped out a year ago and I’ve been using a cordless drill and a 22mm socket to start it. I used it Sunday to mulch up some huge piles of leaves and I shot the stuff all over my lawn. It’s amazing how it reduced a couple of trailer loads of leaves to mulch
Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
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It has two blade sets. One side takes 3” limbs. The other set is fed by a large hopper and is for shredding/mulching leaves and twigs. I think pine needles would shoot thru relatively uncut
Is this like the one used in the film Fargo?
FWIW, Home Depot's running some legit pre-Black Friday sales right now. Just picked up a 1/2" Husky torque wrench for $50 and metric/SAE deep impact socket sets for mega cheap today:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-50...DTWA/205914009
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-...PCSR/203559463
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-...PCSR/203559461
Now I'm REALLY tempted to order this best since it's finally on sale again and I have to swap brake rotors once they arrive:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...7-21/306180606
I need a spreader device. It will be one use, so it has to be cheaper than ripping a wall apart and repairing the sheetrock. It needs to be about an inch long and I need to be able to operate it by touch blind up inside a wall. It has to stay in place once expanded. It is replacing a piece of wood. The fucknuts who installed the tub for the previous owner well over 20 years ago did mega kludges. The faucet valve is not mounted to anything. When I was pushing and pulling to replace the valve core, it knocked loose a piece of wood. They probably figured friction would be constant over time. That piece of wood was pushing the pipe away from the shower wall so that the faucet was snug. Now there's a big gap. Fuckers. I can't find the piece of wood, it fell in there somewhere. I am able to get my arm up in the wall through the ceiling of the bathroom directly below it. When they did some "remodeling" they ripped the ceiling apart and put a hanging ceiling in the downstairs bathroom. I don't really have the patience to keep cutting pieces of wood until I find the right size. It's an educated guess that the previous shim was wood based on the sound it made when it fell down. FML.
Go on the backside wall. Cut a small hole in the drywall, maybe 2"x2" next to a stud in the stud bay where the pipe is, using the stud side that is closest to the pipe. Get some duct strapping (the bendable metal strap with perforations on it), and using a coat hanger fish it aroudn the pip and back to you so you can pull it back. Pull it tight so that it's pulling the valve back in and then screw it to the stud. Doen, except you have to by a 4" drywall patch and a can of texture if you have textured walls.
Another option - this one is ghetto, so I like it better. Heh. Get a nice long molly bolt. Like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...3922/204273381
Make sure the screw is really long - maybe 4", but very thin. Before you insert it in the wall get one of the rubber ends you use on a doorstop and put it on the end of the screw, and glue it there. Insert into the hole, and tighten. If you have it in the exact right place it'll push the pipe tight on the outside wall against the molly legs on the inside of the drywall. Once it's nice and tight get some bolt cutters and snap the screw off as far back into the drywall hole as you can (this is why the thinner the screw the better.)
Be careful cause if you push it to one side it'll knock it away from the pipe and it'll be useless and you have to start over.
Once it's clipped off fill the drywall hole and viola! You're done.
Can you cut some sort of shim to wedge it in place and then foam it with expanding foam? You could even drill a 1/4" hole in the wall (or two) near the shim to stick the foam nozzle in.
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