The new -2017- CAST touring system thread

[nyskirat]

Yeah I've had the issues with the tech toe needing some banging to slip onto the mount. No issues with alpine toe though?

Any advice on what to do to potentially remedy this issue

[madriverfreeride]

Having the toe shoulder screws as close to perfectly perpendicular to the top sheet as possible is key to getting the toe system to function well. I have found that the best way to do this is to check for volcanoes in the top sheet as stated before, sometimes I have to mount the shoulder screws and then remove them and smooth out the volcanoes with a file or rasp. I find putting the shoulder screws on loosely and then locking the alpine toe into place, and then doing the final tightening with the alpine toe in place keeps them from wandering too much.

[nyskirat]

It's just the tech toes though, not the alpine. Alpine have zero issues

[jondrums]

I had a similar problem with my touring toes not fully engaging despite super careful paper jig mount. CAST service crew sent me this. Good advice above about tapping the holes and flattening out the volcanos. Working great now.

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Hey Jon,

Sorry to hear this. We made the tech toes a little more snug this year for a better fit and performance. On a side note it has to be almost perfect mount or the wings will hit the screw towers like you have shown in you picture. Here are a few things you can try...

I would recommend unscrewing the towers and adding wood glue again to reseal as you attempt the bottom instructions.

1. Try loosening the screw tower until the tech toe properly clicks in. Once it clicks in tighten the screw towers back down to the ski. Then check to make sure other Tech and Alpine toes still work with the corrected fix.

2. Make sure the screw towers are straight and vertical. If they are diagonal or look like they are leaning we need to try and get them straight by unscrewing that tower and rescrewing back in as straight as possible.

3. Sometime we need to force the wings a slight bit as the tech toe is sitting a little tight. To do this force the binding down onto the towers with a firm finger or pushing down with the handle of a screwdriver. This will shave a little metal off the screw tower for the perfect fit.

For the brake lock retainers. I recommend unscrewing the retainer just a little bit. Then clicking it down on the brakes, then tighten the screws back down.

Let me know how this goes for you,

[nyskirat]

Awesome! Will try that when I get a chance. Figured it could be an overtightening thing

[SirVicSmasher]

Alpine toe =hammer
Done dada

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[toast2266]

Alpine toe =hammer
Done dada

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I assume this is why cast only works with p18's. Any lesser binding would crack when used as a bludgeon.

[nyskirat]

Alpine toe =hammer
Done dada

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That was my go-to but I'd rather not smash those toes too much and have em somehow break.

[ahuss]

Anybody have a spare set of tech toes they could part with?

[Gnar_Shralp406]

PSA: CAST Pre-Sale
Get 'em while they're hot!
https://casttouring.com/en-us/produc...r-upgrade-kit/

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[tgapp]

Dumb question but is there a CAST system compatible with a Pivot 12? Thinking about this for my wife but she skis a din of 5.

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[detrusor]

No. 15’s and 18’s only


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[tgapp]

No. 15’s and 18’s only


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Dang, thanks for the help anyway. Looks like it's gonna be shift10s for her.

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[meter-man]

Question about AFDs - I was hoping to use Cast with both my gripwalk soles (touring boots) and regular alpine boots. I have some P18 with the GW AFD, which I am pretty sure accommodates both GW and alpine soles.

However, the Cast page suggests that the Cast GW AFD only works with GW and the alpine AFD only works with alpine. In other words, the Cast AFD requires you to choose which boot/sole norm at the outset, rather than allow for both GW and alpine on the same AFD.

The Alpine AFDs will fit all alpine boots that meet ISO 5355. This includes boots that have CAST’s tech conversion. WTR AFDs will fit Walk to Ride boots, they are also sized to accommodate boots that meet ISO 9523 touring boot standard. However, the release and retention characteristics of these boots will be affected by the boot’s sole material and tread pattern. AFDs compatible with GripWalk will fit all boots with GripWalk soles. Due to the limited overlap between Alpine and GripWalk geometry, we chose to design these AFDS to create maximum energy transfer and more consistent function specifically for the GripWalk norm, as a result, they will not work with Alpine boots

Right?? Or am I mistaken?

If you have to swap AFDs for the different boot sole norms, how easy/hard is it to swap AFDs? Do you have to unscrew the entire toepiece from the ski to do the swap? I think so, but would love confirmation.

[HAB]

AFD comes off with the Pivot toe assembly when you remove them for the walk up. The AFD slides on, and is secured with a set screw from below. Swapping them is easy. You're correct that you'll need to do it though.

[meter-man]

^^^^excellent! Thx.

[grinch]

Dang, thanks for the help anyway. Looks like it's gonna be shift10s for her.

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Pinding might be an option. Not sure what the low din is but 13 is the high

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[tuco]

Pindung is DIN 6-14

[madriverfreeride]

Dumb question but is there a CAST system compatible with a Pivot 12? Thinking about this for my wife but she skis a din of 5.

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Dont pivot 15s go down to 5?

Still probably overkill, and thats coming from a huge pivot fan and hater of shifts, but shifts are probably fine for someone skiing at 5.

[galibier_numero_un]

Dont pivot 15s go down to 5?

Still probably overkill, and thats coming from a huge pivot fan and hater of shifts, but shifts are probably fine for someone skiing at 5.

Overkill @ 5 indeed, as would be Tectons or Vipecs, but they'd work.

I talked myself (with help from folks here) out of CAST, for my weenie-ass DIN-8 self. Great binder solution, but overkill for me.

... Thom

[phatboy64]

I am picking up my first CAST system and have a mounting question. At the very beginning of this thread someone mentioned that due to the mounting screws sitting “higher” there could be additional forces on them from a sheering/loosing aspect. I have also read some folks use two way/carpet tape when using shims under bindings to add additional friction. Would there be value in using two way tape between the thin metal plate and the ski? Or is this a dumb question and everyone is already doing this?

[lucknau]

I am picking up my first CAST system and have a mounting question. At the very beginning of this thread someone mentioned that due to the mounting screws sitting “higher” there could be additional forces on them from a sheering/loosing aspect. I have also read some folks use two way/carpet tape when using shims under bindings to add additional friction. Would there be value in using two way tape between the thin metal plate and the ski? Or is this a dumb question and everyone is already doing this?

I‘m sure you would anyway, but I’d wait till you notice an issue before trying to mitigate it.

[SirVicSmasher]

I am picking up my first CAST system and have a mounting question. At the very beginning of this thread someone mentioned that due to the mounting screws sitting “higher” there could be additional forces on them from a sheering/loosing aspect. I have also read some folks use two way/carpet tape when using shims under bindings to add additional friction. Would there be value in using two way tape between the thin metal plate and the ski? Or is this a dumb question and everyone is already doing this?

You're over thinking this. If you put anything under the plate its not going to work as its intended to. No concern about "additional stresses" this setup is as bomber as it gets

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[phatboy64]

I agree about overthinking it. . I wasn’t even thinking about it until I read that one post then it got in my head. Just thought I would double check before mounting.

[eskido]

On the same note: how many folks are running heli coils on these setups or even inserts?? Seems like it’d be a lil scary to try to get them perfectly perpendicular to the ski. Worth a shot? Unnecessary? Due to hole conflict I am going to have to partially drill into a hardwood dowel I gflexed in and I think a heli coil setup would give me a warm a fuzzy but I don’t know if it’s necessary or worth the risk of the coil leaning a tich? Thoughts?? Please and thanks