Sticky spring snow wax

[auvgeek]

Bumping this thread for spring. Terry, are you guys out of the LP2 orange? How different is the LP2 orange from the BP1 yellow? Been happy so far with the Maplus medium, but I was thinking about picking up the LP2 and the soft-med blend.

[Alpinord]

Bumping this thread for spring. Terry, are you guys out of the LP2 orange? How different is the LP2 orange from the BP1 yellow? Been happy so far with the Maplus medium, but I was thinking about picking up the LP2 and the soft-med blend.

We are currently out of the LP2 Orange. The BP1 Yellow is a little softer, but doesn’t have LF, runs in about the same snow temp range.

I think a really good option for you (coupled with a decent structure) would be to use the LP2 Purple. It’s runs well from the same range as the RB Med and up through the Special Reserve. Plus it had LF for higher moisture. It’s more durable than the orange or yellow and you can overlay the BP1 yellow when the snow is less abrasive.

I’ve been using the LP2 Purple as my go to over a broad range of temps this f’d up season, moisture and snow types with pretty good results.


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[buttahflake]

Sandpaper and steel scrapers. Holy Shit.
So. Fucking. Wrong.

Wait in the car.

[stuckathuntermtn]

I have some One Ball Jay graphite stuff that I rub on occasionally as recommended by Tognar. Iron in some yellow or yellow and red SVST. Scrape and brush well.
How can you put skins on wothout scraping? Are you rubbing and corking so there isn't much to begin with?

Pretty structure, Alpinord. How do you do the crosshatching? And a metal scraper with soft wax? Yeah no.
And never bother with flouro. Too expensive and not worth it if you're not aiming for the Olympics.


And yeah, what do you use for dust storms?

[Alpinord]

Sandpaper and steel scrapers. Holy Shit.
So. Fucking. Wrong.

Wait in the car.

Prove it instead of talking out of your ass.

[Alpinord]

I have some One Ball Jay graphite stuff that I rub on occasionally as recommended by Tognar. Iron in some yellow or yellow and red SVST. Scrape and brush well.
How can you put skins on wothout scraping? Are you rubbing and corking so there isn't much to begin with?

Pretty structure, Alpinord. How do you do the crosshatching? And a metal scraper with soft wax? Yeah no.
And never bother with flouro. Too expensive and not worth it if you're not aiming for the Olympics.


And yeah, what do you use for dust storms?

See post 25. Always scrape and brush. This definitely makes a difference for skins removal. I tend towards harder wax in the BC because I keep thinking softer waxes may come off during skin removal.

Dust sucks. Moly and graphite are supposedly more dirt resistant.

[Alpinord]

Just stumbled onto this video regarding base flattening and regenerating base structure. Again. silicon carbide sandpaper cuts plastic bases cleaner than aluminum oxide. This reduces and in some cases eliminates the need to remove base hairs.

[3PinGrin]

Prove it instead of talking out of your ass.

Buttah only knows what the shop "taught" him. Which ain't much.

[buttahflake]

Yeah, no. Go ahead with your sandpaper and steel scrapers. You won’t need skins after that. So there is that.
Are you guys from canaduh?

Go on Now

[Mofro261]

Yeah, no. Go ahead with your sandpaper and steel scrapers. You won’t need skins after that. So there is that.
Are you guys from canaduh?

Go on Now

Yeah, using steel scrapers and sand paper for base flattening was something I learned directly from Bode Miller's ski technician, Willi Wiltz.

Go on Now.

[buttahflake]

Okay, you sound like booby dickless now. Embellish much?

Wait in the car

[Mofro261]

Okay, you sound like booby dickless now. Embellish much?

Wait in the car

You sound like you need instructions on how to open a pull tab, working a shop for how long and still don't know some really basic shit.

[buttahflake]

Fuck off, guy.
I’ve forgotten more than you’ll ever know about shop practices.

Wait in the fucking car

[Alpinord]

Fuck off, guy.
I’ve forgotten more than you’ll ever know about shop practices.

Wait in the fucking car

Maybe you should forget some more and stop spewing BS, if the remainder is also based on Conventional Lack of Wisdom and 'Old Wive's Tales' vs actually researching, experimenting and testing alternatives to see if they really do or do not work for a given set of circumstances.

The skis and their technologies are always evolving. So are maintenance techniques and options. Skis bases are just sintered plastic made by peeling a larger piece with a steel blade.

Sandpaper is made from stone as are Ski Vision structuring stones. What's truly the difference to ski base plastic and real performance, between how the grit of a machined stone grind abrades the base vs the grit of sandpaper or a structuring stone by a DIYer's hand? The same could be said about a steel brush or base file.

This thread is about ramping up performance for the high variability of spring snows. If there is a screw up or the performance is less than desirable, if available, one can still get a stone grind (by a trustworthy technician) to reset the base and edges.....and then go through the multiple waxing cycles to get the skis back up to speed.

[buttahflake]

Using a metal scraper to remove hairs is archaic. Hot scrape with a sharp plexi and some base prep wax.

Go on Now

[swissiphic]

For spring waxing of the fleet, i'm using a blend of kuusport yellow and grey graphite. Temp/snow condish range seems to be good from warm above freezing air temp sun baked mashed powtatos new snow with free water evident to just below minus 5 - 10ish if the crystals aren't sharp and near surface faceted from overnight clear sky, ime.

General scraping duties; razor sharp metal scraper with light touch and soft paws; ftw.

Got sick and tired of sharpening the quiver of plexis...and doing 30-40 ski and/or board scrapes at a time, gotta save the hands/forearms...repetitive stress injury mitigation via HEAVY METAL.