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  1. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    134
    Quote Originally Posted by auvgeek View Post
    It'd be cool if someone figured out how to put the toe on an adjustment track to minimize stack height and the need for shims.
    That's a fantastic idea.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    3,195
    Does anyone else feel increased strain on the knees, particularly the patellar tendon area, when skiing with the ramp angle inherent in the radical 1.0? I find that especially on egresses from tours, on flatter terrain when you are just kind of standing there gliding, that my knees hurt about 10x worse than if I were gliding along on the same terrain with my alpine setup. Could this be a ramp angle issue?
    "The skis just popped me up out of the snow and I went screaming down the hill on a high better than any heroin junkie." She Ra

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Eburg
    Posts
    12,947
    Quote Originally Posted by tone capone View Post
    Could this be a ramp angle issue?
    could be. Or forward lean. I do low angle glide-outs on tours with snug cuffs but no forward lean lock.
    Last edited by GeezerSteve; 08-13-2018 at 09:52 AM.

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Vancouver BC
    Posts
    2,592
    Quote Originally Posted by tone capone View Post
    Does anyone else feel increased strain on the knees, particularly the patellar tendon area, when skiing with the ramp angle inherent in the radical 1.0? I find that especially on egresses from tours, on flatter terrain when you are just kind of standing there gliding, that my knees hurt about 10x worse than if I were gliding along on the same terrain with my alpine setup. Could this be a ramp angle issue?
    Yes, it's awful, highly recommend shimming the toe to fix this... not just the knee pain but the feeling of being tipped forward and having your quads "on" all the time because of that damn ramp angle. I used to hate the Singing Pass ski out from Whistler slack (~12km hiking trail) but it's a breeze now with the neutral stance I get from shimmed toes.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    2,234
    Quote Originally Posted by auvgeek View Post
    It'd be cool if someone figured out how to put the toe on an adjustment track to minimize stack height and the need for shims.
    Got my first skin of the winter in today and was reminded that I hate the Radical 2.0/Beast ramp angle combo so I'm back on the hunt to fix this. B&D shims are ~$30 which is probalby the direction I'll go. However, I really would like a plate like the one that Auvgeek mentioned here.

    I'll probably go and talk with our CNC router guy tomorrow - I'm not sure if we have a depth limit or what kind of time it would take to do something like this, but I'll pick his brain.

    Seth

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Whistler
    Posts
    1,403
    I have skied P18s for years. Skiing this combo with an alpine boot for years is what I'm comfortable on.
    I dont like the angle and stance my Dynafit set up have put me in. My fix and set procedure is as follows: I put my alpine ski flat on the bench, and put my alpine boot in the binding. I then put a t-square in my boot, flat on my footbed and measure the angle on the top of the t-square with a digital level.
    I then repeat the the same with my touring setup and touring boots. I then shim to match the angle of my alpine set up. I have found that I need to shim my Rad 2.0s to achieve the same angle. I have cut blocks for some and bough the B&D shims for some.
    This stance and angle is immediately felt on the very first turn with my Dynafit set ups.
    To me makes more sense than measuring heel heights and toes height, because if the ramp angle of the tech boots is difference from you alpine boot, your tech setup will feel off anyways.
    I understand the toe and heel measurements for comparison and general consensus, but those numbers do nothing for me.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    where the rough and fluff live
    Posts
    4,193
    Quote Originally Posted by sethschmautz View Post
    Got my first skin of the winter in today and was reminded that I hate the Radical 2.0/Beast ramp angle combo so I'm back on the hunt to fix this. B&D shims are ~$30 which is probalby the direction I'll go. However, I really would like a plate like the one that Auvgeek mentioned here.

    I'll probably go and talk with our CNC router guy tomorrow - I'm not sure if we have a depth limit or what kind of time it would take to do something like this, but I'll pick his brain.

    Seth
    I found a guy in Msla who does cabinetry with plastics, he had various thicknesses and I bought some of his scrap, which then got cut into smaller pieces to fit under the toes. I use Comforts, so the thickness I used won't apply for you. But the idea of finding plastic sheeting & making your own is cheaper than the B&D shims. While you're at the plastics place get some extra for making your own wax scrapers.

    Absolutely it makes a big difference going downhill. You might notice a tiny bit less leverage going uphill because that angle's been reduced, but it also makes traverses much easier on the quads.

    ************

    DeeHubbs, I like your practical approach to getting similar stances.

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    2,234
    Thanks Creaky,

    I had shims under my speed radicals (1.0) a year ago, and agree - the difference is substantial. I do have some of the HDPE in a sheet that I've been meaning to make shims out of. This is option 2 at this point. Option 1 is going to be trying to get a custom 1/4" aluminum toe shim made that would allow me to move my toe piece forward and backward 2 cms each way in 1 cm increments from here at work.

    Seth

  9. #34
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    where the rough and fluff live
    Posts
    4,193
    I like the idea. You're already putting something between binding and ski, why not make it add some adjustability? Has to be thick enough to hold threads deep enough to hold the bindings securely but I'm guessing the amount of shim you want handles that depth problem.

    How much heel adjustment is in the Radical or Beast heel?

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    196
    Here’s you toe plate. Only 5mm though.
    https://skimo.co/aski-adjustment-plates

  11. #36
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    where the rough and fluff live
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    Thanks, I didn't know someone already made them for retail.

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    2,234
    So...I've been meaning to spend some time looking at the current process in my business of how parts get from my engineer's desk to the cnc router, so I sat with one of my engineers and then draftsmen to design two parts: a simple 1/4" aluminum shim and a 1/4" aluminum shift plate that allows me to shift the radical 2.0 toe forward or backward in 1 cm increments (up to +2 and -2).

    The shift plate will have tapped holes for M5 (same as the inserts already in those skis). The simple shim will just have through holes that will allow a longer m5 to pass through to the inserts. I'll post the drawings later, but will be sitting down with the cnc operator today up watch his process also.

    In addition to getting a set of these shins, I've also been able to identify some big communication gaps where tribal knowledge is band-aiding a prices deficiency, so it has been beneficial in multiple ways.

    Seth

  13. #38
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    where the rough and fluff live
    Posts
    4,193
    Seth, who do you work for up there with machining in-house? What's the company's main product?

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    2,234
    A couple pics:



    Shims on top, shift plates on the bottom.




    I will end cutting holes in the middle of these and also trimming the edges to remove some material/weight if everything goes okay in the test.

    Seth

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    642
    Nice work Seth.

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    2,234
    Update. The experiment of following a part through fabrication needed another pass, so I had engineering update their part and CAD, then recut the shims out of plastic and the shift plate was narrowed and had some recesses cut underneath to cut down weight.

    Original rectangles are pictured above. Below, middle and far right are the "cut down" shift plate and shim respectively. The plastic shim is obvious and the new shift plate is on the far left showing top and bottom. The cut outs are on the underside so they don't fill with snow.

    Seth

    Click image for larger version. 

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  17. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    616
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    I have skied P18s for years. Skiing this combo with an alpine boot for years is what I'm comfortable on.
    I dont like the angle and stance my Dynafit set up have put me in. My fix and set procedure is as follows: I put my alpine ski flat on the bench, and put my alpine boot in the binding. I then put a t-square in my boot, flat on my footbed and measure the angle on the top of the t-square with a digital level.
    I then repeat the the same with my touring setup and touring boots. I then shim to match the angle of my alpine set up. I have found that I need to shim my Rad 2.0s to achieve the same angle. I have cut blocks for some and bough the B&D shims for some.
    This stance and angle is immediately felt on the very first turn with my Dynafit set ups.
    To me makes more sense than measuring heel heights and toes height, because if the ramp angle of the tech boots is difference from you alpine boot, your tech setup will feel off anyways.
    I understand the toe and heel measurements for comparison and general consensus, but those numbers do nothing for me.
    Can you go into a little more detail on your process to find the right shim angle between boot and binding angle? I'd like to repeat this process myself and think your approach makes perfect sense (as ramp angle between boots varies).

  18. #43
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    616
    Quote Originally Posted by sethschmautz View Post
    Update. The experiment of following a part through fabrication needed another pass, so I had engineering update their part and CAD, then recut the shims out of plastic and the shift plate was narrowed and had some recesses cut underneath to cut down weight.

    Original rectangles are pictured above. Below, middle and far right are the "cut down" shift plate and shim respectively. The plastic shim is obvious and the new shift plate is on the far left showing top and bottom. The cut outs are on the underside so they don't fill with snow.

    Seth

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	225755
    jealous. this looks awesome. i am going to go with HDPE I'm guessing to shim my Radical 2.0 toes and cut to shape with a jig saw. B&D seems like a rip off at the price.

  19. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Cascades
    Posts
    329
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    jealous. this looks awesome. i am going to go with HDPE I'm guessing to shim my Radical 2.0 toes and cut to shape with a jig saw. B&D seems like a rip off at the price.

    ***edit: nevermind, bought some on eBay for $10***
    Do you (or anyone) have any scrap HDPE I can buy? Looking for ~1/4"/6mm thickness, enough for two shims for Superlite 2.0s (so conservatively 4"-square pieces).

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    4

    3d pritned Rad2 shims.

    I've drafted some CAD and 3d printed some toe shims for the radicals. I've tried to pop some photo's here but looks like my post hasn't been been approved ?

  21. #46
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    642
    Quote Originally Posted by AndAnotherThing.. View Post
    I've drafted some CAD and 3d printed some toe shims for the radicals. I've tried to pop some photo's here but looks like my post hasn't been been approved ?
    Hi David. Noobs don't get pic posting rights for a while so email 'em to me & I'll post 'em.

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    642
    Here's an example of the toe shims that I manufacture in either 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm or 6mm:

  23. #48
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    616
    Looks like the ones I made!


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  24. #49
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderjon View Post
    Hi David. Noobs don't get pic posting rights for a while so email 'em to me & I'll post 'em.
    Cheers Jon, I'll ping them over.

  25. #50
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    642
    Here's the shims made by AndAnotherThing..
    6mm shim 3d printed in ABS with a sparse fill


    10mm version 3D-Printed ABS FDM with sparse fill


    6mm version designed for SLS powder type 3d printing

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