Atomic Hawx Ultra XTD aka Hawk Extended aka HawX

[PNB]

the 3 norms moving forward are: Alpine 5355, Touring 9523, Grip Walk 9523.

Are Touring and GW the same norm then?

[grskier]

you prob saw it over at NS, but if not this is Atomic's lead boot designer's answer to your question above


source:https://www.newschoolers.com/forum/t...tra-XTD?page=6

so now you know the official line and not only my question to your question Matt's availability is second to none and up there with ON3P - i find it really impressive how good he is with sharing info on their products and in answering questions.

(sorry if i cross some line posting his reply on NS here on TGR as a quote or in linking to another similar thread on NS, but i found the answer informative and wanted to share for those that are not on NS )

Better etiquette than 99% of the folks here. And very informative

[adrenalated]

For reference, my 25.5s weigh 1395g with Intuition Pro Tours, 3/4 length Superfeet Green insoles, and expert Booster straps. I didn't weigh them stock because I don't ski boots stock.

I've been doing a ton of work on them to get the fit dialed so only have one run so far, 1500vert of chalky bumps and groomers, in the dark. So far I have to say, I am VERY impressed with the way this boot skis. It's probably 80-90% as capable as my Dalbello Scorpion 130s at a small fraction of the weight. It won't be my only boot but it will fill that role for a ton of people. It tours a bit worse than my OG Scarpa Maestrale RS despite feeling a touch lighter. There's a reason most touring focused boots are three-piece boots. My only real complaint is I wish the BSL was 4-5mm longer and there was a touch more length in the shell.

[SmartArse88]

gregL said this in a GripWalk thread-

"When you end up buying a customer a new ski because the combination you said would work doesn't (in this case a Hawx Ultra XTD with Griffon SoleID) it becomes more than annoying."
Can you expand on this? What didn't work?

The local Marker Rep told me that Sole Id is compatible with WTR .

I have a pair of skis with Squires on them that will get Shifts next year. Would like to use these skis with XTD boots this year without drilling another set of holes in them. Would love to just throw some Sole ID toe pieces on them for now. Your thoughts are appreciated.

I feel this pain having already had to change supposedly compatible bindings, and now have some pinboard skis! Further standardisation will be great, just a shame I now have the wrong sole..... I better wear these boots out first though!

[gregL]

Are Touring and GW the same norm then?

Not exactly. The ISO 9523 specs are very broad (for instance, the toe height can range from 23mm to 33mm) and the sole can have a smooth AFD pad but doesn't have to. The GripWalk specs fall within the scope of ISO 9523.

[PNB]

Thanks.

[gregL]

Not exactly. The ISO 9523 specs are very broad (for instance, the toe height can range from 23mm to 33mm) and the sole can have a smooth AFD pad but doesn't have to. The GripWalk specs fall within the scope of ISO 9523.

My bad - misread the diagram - the toe height spec is 28mm plus or minus 3mm. GripWalk makes the effective toe shape "thinner" by adjusting the height and angle of the AFD pad. Heel is less of a problem as a 30mm or 31mm heel meets both ISO 5355 and ISO 9523 spec.

[LeeLau]

Heads up from Matt Manser

"Check in with your local Atomic retailer and have them order the "XTD Free/Lock Base Plate 13/19", part number AZE001416. This just recently became available and using this piece instead of the stock one will allow you to make the boot 2 degrees more upright (from 15 to 13 degrees).

You unscrew the ski/walk mechanism, remove it, and remove the silver colored base plate from inside the cuff. Use this new base plate with the 13 degree setting in the (you'll know it's the 13 degree setting because you can read it, other wise it would read 19). Attach everything and re-tighten."

[N1CK.]

Any updates or changes in the liners between the 120 or 130 models?
I've read this whole thread and remember the 130 liners being minimalistic (weight savings?)

Coming from a Cochise 120, looking for a nicer walk/pivot and no less downhill performance. No exceptional fit challenges, weird feet, etc.

[gregL]

"Check in with your local Atomic retailer and have them order the "XTD Free/Lock Base Plate 13/19", part number AZE001416. This just recently became available and using this piece instead of the stock one will allow you to make the boot 2 degrees more upright (from 15 to 13 degrees).

You unscrew the ski/walk mechanism, remove it, and remove the silver colored base plate from inside the cuff. Use this new base plate with the 13 degree setting in the (you'll know it's the 13 degree setting because you can read it, other wise it would read 19). Attach everything and re-tighten."

Atomic delivers!

[Dromond]

Very cool! I love it when manufacturers provide those extra customization parts that can make the difference when it comes to fit and function. Boots with too much forward lean have often been a problem for me.

[LC]

My 120s arrived, sooner than expected. A noticeably tighter fit (good) than the 130s I tried in a shop.

How is everyone setting the cuff buckles for skinning? I've never had an overlap boot with a walk mode before. Tight-ish, maybe one notch looser than for skiing just for comfort?

And anyone with Boosters on these, are you running them over the plastic or under? I normally cut notches in my alpine boots' upper cuffs to allow the Booster to go under it, but my alpine boots cost a lot less than these so I don't really want to experiment.

[bean]

Wide open on the cuff, anything else compromises the walk mode. I removed the power strap on mine, I couldn't tell a difference skiing with one open and one right, and it added hassle and bulk at transitions. A Booster under the cuff would probably be a lot less annoying.

[rod9301]

Booster under the cuff

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using TGR Forums mobile app

[gregL]

My 120s arrived, sooner than expected. A noticeably tighter fit (good) than the 130s I tried in a shop.

How is everyone setting the cuff buckles for skinning? I'vte never had an overlap boot with a walk mode before. Tight-ish, maybe one notch looser than for skiing just for comfort?

And anyone with Boosters on these, are you running them over the plastic or under? I normally cut notches in my alpine boots' upper cuffs to allow the Booster to go under it, but my alpine boots cost a lot less than these so I don't really want to experiment.

No power strap at all and both top buckles undone (lower one in the stainless clip).

[adrenalated]

I'm running a Booster over the cuff. Annoying at transitions, but I've always used them that way and like how they make the boot feel so I just deal with it.

[aanev]

Recently I bought a pair of Hawx XTD 120. Very happy with both fit and feel. The only problem is that my feet get cold in them very fast. The OEM liner is kinda tight in the toe box so I tried a pair of Intuition Luxury liners. My feet got (numb) cold after 30 minutes. I can wiggle my toes in both liners. The boots have been baked at the local Atomic dealer.
Shell fit is 17mm. Should I punch a little bit more room in the toebox area?

P.S. When using the very same Intuition Luxury liners in Tecnica Cochise 2015 I have zero issues with cold feet.

[mntlion]

Recently I bought a pair of Hawx XTD 120. Very happy with both fit and feel. The only problem is that my feet get cold in them very fast. The OEM liner is kinda tight in the toe box so I tried a pair of Intuition Luxury liners. My feet got (numb) cold after 30 minutes. I can wiggle my toes in both liners. The boots have been baked at the local Atomic dealer.
Shell fit is 17mm. Should I punch a little bit more room in the toebox area?

P.S. When using the very same Intuition Luxury liners in Tecnica Cochise 2015 I have zero issues with cold feet.

sounds like a shell shape issue on the atomics.

usualy cold = not enough instep room (height) not a length thing

use a thinner footbed, or grind the boot board thinner,

[aanev]

sounds like a shell shape issue on the atomics.

usualy cold = not enough instep room (height) not a length thing

use a thinner footbed, or grind the boot board thinner,

Now that you mention it, the boot is tighter on the instep than the Tecnica. Nothing too extreme, no hot spots, excellent heel hold. I'll give a try to the OEM liners without footbed and if there is improvement I'll look for thinner foodbeds. The Luxury liners are without footbed (they have 9mm moldable sole AFAIK).

Many thanks!

[aanev]

Now that you mention it, the boot is tighter on the instep than the Tecnica. Nothing too extreme, no hot spots, excellent heel hold. I'll give a try to the OEM liners without footbed and if there is improvement I'll look for thinner foodbeds. The Luxury liners are without footbed (they have 9mm moldable sole AFAIK).

Many thanks!

Removing the footbed seems to work (sort of - I got cold feet again but after several hours and it was bearable). Now I plan to heat the tongue of the Luxury liner with a heat-gun and tighten the buckles. As an alternative I can rebake the shells with some padding on the instep.

[LC]

As an alternative I can rebake the shells with some padding on the instep.

Rebake shells & liners with an extra insole or two under the liner. This is what I've done to my last few pairs of Salomon Falcon/X3/Ghost which are very low on the instep.

I ended up cutting the cuffs of my XTD 120s today to allow the Boosters to go under the plastic - always prefer my alpine boots like this. Also cut the first overlap flap 10-15mm narrower because it was digging into my foot with the buckles fastened tight (very skinny calves) - done this on my last few alpine boots also.

Fit feels good at home, might try them tomorrow depending what skis I want to be on. Softer than I'd like (at home), but I can live with that if the fit is significantly better than my Vulcans. Might try old Powerwraps in them sometime and pick up a new pair if they feel good.

Thanks for the skinning/buckle tips above. I have a feeling my heel is going to slip a bit with the upper buckles completely loose, but I'll experiment. Even when I skin in my alpine boots I normally just loosen the top buckles a couple of teeth.

[adrenalated]

Thanks for the skinning/buckle tips above. I have a feeling my heel is going to slip a bit with the upper buckles completely loose, but I'll experiment. Even when I skin in my alpine boots I normally just loosen the top buckles a couple of teeth.

Put the laces on the liner. Skin with the liner laced tight and buckles all loose. The whole liner might move in the shell (probably not) but your foot won't move in the liner, so you won't get blisters and you'll get full ROM.

[auvgeek]

Put the laces on the liner. Skin with the liner laced tight and buckles all loose. The whole liner might move in the shell (probably not) but your foot won't move in the liner, so you won't get blisters and you'll get full ROM.

+1. Had to switch away from touring in powerwraps because of blisters. No blisters with lace-up intuitions (in Vulcans, not XTD).

[carlh]

I am thinking of getting some intuition pro tongues or pro wraps for inbounds in my 130s and keeping the stock thin liners for touring as they do that well. Any reason not to go wrap, it seems like I will get extra stiffness and a tighter ankle fit. I still need to find some good footbeds too, probably just have to bite the bullet for thin high arch customs.

[Skeeze]

On this topic, does anyone know how the volume of an Intuition Pro Tour LV compares to the stock liner?

I'm concerned my 25.5s may be too small for touring--does anyone have experience with how much the boot can be punched for length?