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  1. #526
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Aspen
    Posts
    639
    I've resort skied my Hawx Ultra 130 for a few seasons and now looking to upgrade my touring boots from the trusty Mercuries. I'm assuming the XTD will be a slam dunk to transition to and that it has the same boot mold as the normal Hawx Ultra (I know the bsl is a bit longer for the tech inserts)?

    Being gear-obsessed the Zero G Tour Pro is very enticing. But coming from a 15-17 forward lean with Hawx and the Mercuries, am I just overthinking another option and the jump to a 12-13 on the ZGTP?

  2. #527
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Not Brooklyn
    Posts
    6,044
    Quote Originally Posted by alpinevibes View Post
    I've resort skied my Hawx Ultra 130 for a few seasons and now looking to upgrade my touring boots from the trusty Mercuries. I'm assuming the XTD will be a slam dunk to transition to and that it has the same boot mold as the normal Hawx Ultra (I know the bsl is a bit longer for the tech inserts)?

    Being gear-obsessed the Zero G Tour Pro is very enticing. But coming from a 15-17 forward lean with Hawx and the Mercuries, am I just overthinking another option and the jump to a 12-13 on the ZGTP?
    I don't think those publishes lean numbers always translate to how boots ski and feel. Try them on. Maybe Hawx Ultra on one foot and ZGTP on the other.

  3. #528
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    3,195
    Quote Originally Posted by alpinevibes View Post
    Being gear-obsessed the Zero G Tour Pro is very enticing. But coming from a 15-17 forward lean with Hawx and the Mercuries, am I just overthinking another option and the jump to a 12-13 on the ZGTP?
    No. The stance on the Hawx Ultra XTD is right on for me, but I haven't quite found the sweet spot with the Tour Pro. I have the chip on 13 degrees and it's not quite enough, but I don't really want to use a relatively heavy Lange shim (with a patch of Velcro) to get 2 more degrees on a primarily touring boot . . . so far I've compromised by buckling the top buckle on the Tecnica looser. May try drilling a bunch of holes in a Lange or K2 shim next.

  4. #529
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    588
    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    No. The stance on the Hawx Ultra XTD is right on for me, but I haven't quite found the sweet spot with the Tour Pro. I have the chip on 13 degrees and it's not quite enough, but I don't really want to use a relatively heavy Lange shim (with a patch of Velcro) to get 2 more degrees on a primarily touring boot . . . so far I've compromised by buckling the top buckle on the Tecnica looser. May try drilling a bunch of holes in a Lange or K2 shim next.
    On the other side of the spectrum, I got the 13 flip chips for my XTDs and prefer them at 13 vs 15.

  5. #530
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Aspen
    Posts
    639
    Thanks for the thoughts, first step is definitely getting them on my feet!

  6. #531
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Before
    Posts
    20,456
    Quote Originally Posted by meter-man View Post
    Great thread. Couple questions for the collective.

    I may be replacing my Maestrale RS2s with the 19/20 Hawx XTD 130s next year for the tighter heel cup fit and stiffer forward pressure. (I tried on this year's model, and the shell is unchanged for next year.) This will be a dedicated touring boot. I get about 30-40 days touring a year, and have KR2 for resort. Prior touring boots: heavy-ass alpine boots in frame bindings (haha!), Garmont Adrenalins, first gen Maestrale RS, and tele boots galore.

    (1) For those who have owned a couple seasons, how has durability been?

    (2) I've read of complaints of "leakage" (snow or water leaking into the boot) in the first year's model run. I think but don't know they resolved that. (I read that somewhere.) Anyone out there "leaking"?? haha

    (3) Any complaints with the flat sole for a touring-only rig? GripWalk in next year's model. I know they will be worse scrambling and rocking than a 9523 rockered sole, but how do these bootpack and do on firm as compared to a 9523 rockered touring sole (like on Maestrale). Just want to figure out if I'll be giving up a lot with the GW sole. I don't plan on using these with resort bindings, so don't really care about that.

    (4) I would use these on multi-day tours in addition to long days in the backcountry and shorty dawn patrol laps. Anyone using these for big days or multi-days with positive results? I know they won't walk as good as the F1, Backland, etc class, but I'm fine doing multi-days in my RS2, so yeah...

    (5) Anyone else go from RS2s to these? I was thinking I might try to salvage the RS2s with a tour wrap liner, but next year's upgrades to the Hawx and the better heel cup fit for me make me think this might be a better option over all.
    Try on the Roxa R3 130 too.
    Merde De Glace On the Freak When Ski
    >>>200 cm Black Bamboo Sidewalled DPS Lotus 120 : Best Skis Ever <<<

  7. #532
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    322
    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeze View Post
    On the other side of the spectrum, I got the 13 flip chips for my XTDs and prefer them at 13 vs 15.
    One more data point: with skinny calves, I feel much better with my XTD 130s at the most forward lean position (17 degrees I think?). If I use the more upright setting, I feel like I need to add big spoilers to get in the proper lower leg position. For me, 17 degrees and no spoiler in my XTD 130s feels about like my Lange XT 130 Freetours with large spoilers added.

  8. #533
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    1,402
    Have skinny calves/low volume lower legs/ankles. Considering the Hawx for the next boot.

    Curious though; How effective is lateral power transmission if powerstrap/top buckle isn't buckled tight? I prefer a looser setting in deep bottomless power and some 2d choppy hard snow conditions for shock absorbsion/for/aft travel and a bit more suspension in forward flex. Based on very limited experience with overlap touring boots that weren't especially low volume in the shaft, I found that strap/buckles had to be tight to maintain precise lateral power transmission. It was a problem especially notable in some solly mtn labs where if the power strap and buckles weren't really snug, i could visually see a pretty dramatic lateral and almost torsional twisting of the boot and they were basically unskiable for me unless buckled tight. Also have a pair of Garmont Deliriums and they don't show this characteristic at all; they're very stiff even with buckles basically 'open'.
    Last edited by swissiphic; 06-24-2019 at 04:06 PM.
    What if the hokey pokey really is what it's all about?

  9. #534
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    322
    Quote Originally Posted by swissiphic View Post
    Have skinny calves/low volume lower legs/ankles. Considering the Hawx for the next boot.

    Curious though; How effective is lateral power transmission if powerstrap/top buckle isn't buckled tight?
    Never tried this exact experiment with the XTD 130s, but the overall calf and ankle volume of the shell is on the low side, such that even with the stock liner I don’t have to buckle the upper buckles much to fit securely around my skinny lower leg and ankle. That, coupled with the fact that the XTD 130 shell itself seems plenty stiff, makes me think you wouldn’t get the lateral sloppy feeling you had in your MTN Labs (which seemed higher volume in the lower leg and ankle than the XTDs when I tried them in the shop) if you ran your XTD buckles a little loose.

  10. #535
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    3,195
    Quote Originally Posted by swissiphic View Post
    How effective is lateral power transmission if powerstrap/top buckle isn't buckled tight?
    The boot/skier equation always depends on skier mass and style, but at 5'8" and 170 lbs I found it skied fine with no power strap and top buckle medium tight. The flex is more progressive, the boot is lighter and less hassle in transition, and the snug fit in the heel and midfoot means you can shift your foot subtly and put the ski on edge. Worked well for everything from 186 OG Bodacious to 180 Rustler 11 to 178 Zero G 108.

  11. #536
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Jackson
    Posts
    256
    Quote Originally Posted by swissiphic View Post
    Have skinny calves/low volume lower legs/ankles.

    Curious though; How effective is lateral power transmission if powerstrap/top buckle isn't buckled tight?
    I've got really skinny calves/ankles with medium width forefoot and the Hawx Ultra XTD 120 was a great fit for me. 90% of the time, I skied without the power (completely removed) and I even removed the front-most buckle as well. I thought it skied great and forward lean was perfect for me on the 17 setting. The power strap added a little more umph for charging but I never felt like it was worth the extra hassle for the backcountry. Even in bounds, I felt I could rail just fine without the strap.

    If a boot fits you really well and supports your foot and leg efficiently, my opinion is that you don't need to crank down all over the place to get good performance. YMMV.

  12. #537
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    1,402
    Thanks for the intel, guys. Looking forward to giving the boot a good fit test in the fall. Have some dramatic butchering mods to experiment with on my Vulcans so we'll see if they survive or need replacement.
    What if the hokey pokey really is what it's all about?

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