Atomic Hawx Ultra XTD aka Hawk Extended aka HawX

[El Chupacabra]

Have any of you put in a *lot* of days on the current(ish) Hawx? Wondering how they're holding up.

I have the original Hawx Ultra XTD (2017? - the WTR ones), but I haven't used them that many days to assess long term durability. I do like their fit, so I just picked up some Hawx Ultra 130S alpine boots, which seem to be made very similarly to the XTD -- light plastics, light buckles, etc. I'm used to much heavier boots with much thicker plastic.

Are the Ultra Hawx going to last more than a season or two without falling apart?

[eSock]

I'm on my second season using the 19/20s as my primary boot, so probably 50-60 days on em and they're still holding up fine. I am a little nervous about longevity just because of how light they are compared to how heavy/rough I am on them, but thus far no issues.

[anotherVTskibum]

I put almost 100 days on mine last year and probably 85ish this year. Shells and buckles work fine although I wouldn't be shocked if the flex was softer than it started; I've shelved them because I broke a walk mode switch catching it in a metal grate staircase (it was down but not quite in ski mode and caught as I moved forward), and I had a perfectly good pair of Langes sitting around to use for this spring's earned turns.

My plan right now is to get another pair of Hawx in the fall

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[Skiwald]

I have a pair of hawk ultra xtd 130 in 25.5 I’m getting rid of if anyone is looking for a pair. Non mimic Liners are new. Boots have a season on them.


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[onenerdykid]

Have any of you put in a *lot* of days on the current(ish) Hawx? Wondering how they're holding up.

I have the original Hawx Ultra XTD (2017? - the WTR ones), but I haven't used them that many days to assess long term durability. I do like their fit, so I just picked up some Hawx Ultra 130S alpine boots, which seem to be made very similarly to the XTD -- light plastics, light buckles, etc. I'm used to much heavier boots with much thicker plastic.

Are the Ultra Hawx going to last more than a season or two without falling apart?

If you bought a current generation 21/22 Hawx Ultra 130 S with the updated mold construction, it will last you a while. It's not lighter plastic (it's full PU cuff and shell) and buckles are normal weight 6000-series aluminum. It's obviously not a world cup boot, but it's also not made with light/cheaper/less durable materials.

[Mustonen]

Drifting this thread slightly: Has anybody been able to compare the NEW Hawk Ultra 130 to the Salomon S/Max 130 Carbon? I prefer the fit of the Atomic, but the Salomon just skis so much better. The 20/21 version got vague when skiing hard (bellowing?) and I couldn’t get over it. Wondering if the stiffening that happened for 21/22 fixed that (by all reports it did) and made the skiing performance more comparable to the Salomon.

Bump. Anybody with experiences?

[El Chupacabra]

If you bought a current generation 21/22 Hawx Ultra 130 S with the updated mold construction, it will last you a while. It's not lighter plastic (it's full PU cuff and shell) and buckles are normal weight 6000-series aluminum. It's obviously not a world cup boot, but it's also not made with light/cheaper/less durable materials.

Thanks everyone - esp ONK -

I bought this:
https://www.levelninesports.com/atom...BoCtlIQAvD_BwE

My current boot is a Garmont Shaman - been skiing versions of it for years - also known as the Scott G1 /G2. Heavy, burly buckles, no rivets - only screws and T nuts. Fits fantastic around the heel (my problem area usually), forefoot fits well after a little work, flex is great, but the lower shin area could be more snug fitting - and that spot is where I notice the most improvement in comparing the Shaman fit to my Hawx Ultra XTD. I'm also not getting any younger, so thought a lighter boot might be an advantage, but not willing to sacrifice everything else for the sake of lightness.

[Jongle]

I had great results heat-molding the forefoot of a Hawx Ultra 120 shell using boiling water and a heat gun. After molding, my 105mm-wide foot fits comfortably in a 24.5 shell (last width out of the box = probably around 94mm). It fits so well that I'm thinking about picking up a pair of Ultra XTD 120s on a spring sale. However - does anyone know if I can expect the same heat-molding results for the Ultra XTDs (grilamid) as for the regular Ultras (PU)?

[priapism]

I had great results heat-molding the forefoot of a Hawx Ultra 120 shell using boiling water and a heat gun. After molding, my 105mm-wide foot fits comfortably in a 24.5 shell (last width out of the box = probably around 94mm). It fits so well that I'm thinking about picking up a pair of Ultra XTD 120s on a spring sale. However - does anyone know if I can expect the same heat-molding results for the Ultra XTDs (grilamid) as for the regular Ultras (PU)?

I don't know the materials science at all but I can tell you I tried twice molding my Hawx XTD 120 (early version white model) with the oven and steam/boiling water methods separately, and didn't get the the desired width either time so I just took them to a shop to get punched. They're still a bit narrow and hurt but at least they don't deform my feet anymore.

[Any]

Have any of you put in a *lot* of days on the current(ish) Hawx? Wondering how they're holding up.

I have the original Hawx Ultra XTD (2017? - the WTR ones), but I haven't used them that many days to assess long term durability. I do like their fit, so I just picked up some Hawx Ultra 130S alpine boots, which seem to be made very similarly to the XTD -- light plastics, light buckles, etc. I'm used to much heavier boots with much thicker plastic.

Are the Ultra Hawx going to last more than a season or two without falling apart?

I've a pair of 2019 Hawx Ultra XTD 130, with at least 300 days on them.
(I ski northern and southern hemisphere)
More than 50% of those days are touring days.

They have most certainly lost a heap of their stiffness, but I feel they were never actually "130 flex" in the first place. In any case, I feel they still hold up stiffer than a 100 alpine boot would when new.
In lift queues and casual ski days I usually have the bottom two buckles undone, and so often clip these on signage/gates/etc and have frequently damaged them on previous boots I've had. The design of these means they just spin around and are just fine.
After living in Japan for so long I ski with my feet way too close together. So the boots often suffer damage from ski edges. After only a couple of days they were quite scratched/etc, but so far the damage is still only superficial.
They've also been beat up a heap with so much touring.

They were so comfortable when new, I expected them to pack out a lot. However I'm still using the original liners, tho with custom footbeds. They have a lot of incidental wear, but so far haven't worn too much anywhere in particular, especially not through the heel which is where I usually wear out liners.

Unfortunately they do leak water through the toe overlap on rainy days and in very wet spring slush. It's not much and I could probably fix it if I wasn't too lazy to bother.

So in summary, they've held up great!

I've recently purchased the 2021 model to replace them, I did no research but because of covid n stuff I figured that it was probably the same as the 2022 model.
However I might still bring the old ones out on casual days when I want some comfortable sneakers to ski in.

[gregL]

I don't know the materials science at all but I can tell you I tried twice molding my Hawx XTD 120 (early version white model) with the oven and steam/boiling water methods separately, and didn't get the the desired width either time so I just took them to a shop to get punched. They're still a bit narrow and hurt but at least they don't deform my feet anymore.

The Polyamide/Grilamid XTD models don't heat mold in the oven quite as well as the PU boots, but they can be punched just as well. My foot is 117mm wide (equivalent of ~113mm if I was a 24.5) and I'm in the ultra without a problem with a heat mold and some punching for forefoot width.

[Jongle]

Thanks! I'll give heat-molding the Ultra XTD a shot.

[Jongle]

Update: after heat-molding the lower shells, the Ultra XTD 120s fit like a glove. Pretty awesome how much extra width you can get out of those things. Skied them in the resort today with Zipfit GFT liners. Very, very good.

[NBABUCKS1]

If anyone has a 26.5 Ultra (narrow - 98 last) XTD (touring) 130 - new or newish sitting around I'm looking for a backup pair for my current pair.

[Bamski]

How have folks found running an XTD as a pure touring boot with occasional scrambling / mountaineering moments (think walking on rock, small exposed climbs and down climbs).

I’ve gotten used to having a full-on rubber sole, so the idea of returning to grip walk is a bit.. scary?

Curious if many people who tour 30-40 days a season have opted to use an XTD as a dedicated option - or if I’m better off checking out some other options.

The atomic fits me well (narrower heel, taller instep, slim ankle). There’s still a few other options I’d like to check out too, now that boots are rolling in.

[Benneke10]

I personally feel pretty insecure booting over rocks in the XTD. I also have la sportiva skorpius that don’t fit quite as well but are good enough and have much grippier soles. If rubber soles are important consider the Tecnica Zero G, the fit is almost as good as the Hawx if you upgrade the stock liners to something more substantial

[teledad]

Has anyone tried to widen the opening of the top of the lower boot on the Ultra XTD 130? I love the boots once I have them on but even after 40-50 days the process of getting them on (and off to a lesser extent) is still an ordeal. I’m worried I’m going to break the pull loops on the liner since I’m yarding on them so much. I was wondering if wedging something in the overlap for a few days would give me a little more room.

[Climber Joe]

Has anyone tried to widen the opening of the top of the lower boot on the Ultra XTD 130? I love the boots once I have them on but even after 40-50 days the process of getting them on (and off to a lesser extent) is still an ordeal. I’m worried I’m going to break the pull loops on the liner since I’m yarding on them so much. I was wondering if wedging something in the overlap for a few days would give me a little more room.

With my instep I have this problem with lots of boots. I usually opt for a liner with laces, and put the liner on first, and then slide my liner clad foot into the boot. It usually works great, put you might want/need a shoe horn type shim in the back to cover the tour/walk mechanisms, to prevent catching and/or ripping of the liner stitching overtime.

[whereiscarlos]

Has anyone tried to widen the opening of the top of the lower boot on the Ultra XTD 130? I love the boots once I have them on but even after 40-50 days the process of getting them on (and off to a lesser extent) is still an ordeal. I’m worried I’m going to break the pull loops on the liner since I’m yarding on them so much. I was wondering if wedging something in the overlap for a few days would give me a little more room.

Sounds like your technique could benefit from some adjustments. I’d recommend getting in to your boot using the method shown below (skip to 1:50). You might still have some trouble when your shells are cold but this made my life significantly easier before I started stepping in to my shells with a lace up liner.

https://youtu.be/JjeXNgsqlJQ

[GoldenBC]

Has anyone tried to widen the opening of the top of the lower boot on the Ultra XTD 130? I love the boots once I have them on but even after 40-50 days the process of getting them on (and off to a lesser extent) is still an ordeal. I’m worried I’m going to break the pull loops on the liner since I’m yarding on them so much. I was wondering if wedging something in the overlap for a few days would give me a little more room.

Don’t pull up on the tongue. Spread the lower shell open by pulling one side of the lower shell one way and pushing the tongue over to open the other side.

[mcski]

Has anyone moved on from the hawx to something similar in fit and performance because putting them on and off was such a bitch

[mr walker]

Has anyone moved on from the hawx to something similar in fit and performance because putting them on and off was such a bitch

This doesn't exactly answer your question, but I put some Intuition Tour Wraps in mine out of the box. I just use the standard technique for putting on boots with wrap liners/overlap shells and haven't had any issues. That said, I could totally see how these may be a challenge for some folks with the stock liner.

[Lord Thomas]

Anyone know what the ramp angle of the boot board might be? Compared to my RX130's the XTD's seem to feel like I'm wearing high heels. Thinking of plaining about 2mm out of the heel and maybe a 1mm lift in the toe. Hadn't really noticed it with my Zed's but recently started using a race style clamp with more heel-toe delta and could barely stand up. Now I'm noticing it even in the Zed's

[doebedoe]

Will wait on ONK to confirm, but I get a less extreme but similar feeling when I switch between my RX130 LVs and Hawx Ultra XTDs. Could just be binding diffs though.

What are Hawx XTD folks in for their lightweight boots? I'm starting to save my sheckles for a spring/big day setup to replace my 28.5 TLT5s (27.5 in RX & Hawx XTD). I want something that walks better than the XTDs and hopefully saves a few hundred grams (1-1200g is the spot I'm aiming for). F1 LT? One of the 1000 different Dalbellos? Backlands? Tried on the Skorpius but it's instep felt too low. Driving a ~185/95mm, 13-400g ski with a 6'2"/190# with gear skier.

Through work I have access to proform and feel shitty asking a fitter to put 20 boots on my feet to not buy from them. Would like to narrow it down to a handful.

[gregL]

Anyone know what the ramp angle of the boot board might be? Compared to my RX130's the XTD's seem to feel like I'm wearing high heels. Thinking of plaining about 2mm out of the heel and maybe a 1mm lift in the toe. Hadn't really noticed it with my Zed's but recently started using a race style clamp with more heel-toe delta and could barely stand up. Now I'm noticing it even in the Zed's

Supposed to be the same - 4 degrees. What bindings are you using with those 2 boots? Have you tried using a level app and sticking your phone on the bootboard with the boot in the bindings (can be tricky, the bootboards are not perfectly flat)?