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  1. #151
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    54
    I've generally disregarded the forward pressure indicator, but on my last tweak I've noticed something interesting. When I set up the forward pressure correctly (presumably), the white indicator blows past the marks. However, when I wiggle the dildo left and right (the boot is in), the white indicator falls back in line with the marks and stays there.

  2. #152
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    4,276
    Quote Originally Posted by banzai View Post
    I've generally disregarded the forward pressure indicator, but on my last tweak I've noticed something interesting. When I set up the forward pressure correctly (presumably), the white indicator blows past the marks. However, when I wiggle the dildo left and right (the boot is in), the white indicator falls back in line with the marks and stays there.
    Yup, that was in one of the various Pivot threads. IIRC, rotating the heel 90 degrees resets the indicator.

    So, reset and ignore ;-)



    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  3. #153
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    54
    Yes Thom, that indeeds resets the indicator. I meant something else though, sorry for not explaining clearer. When you strap the boot in, the white indicator blows past the marks and stays there. Then wiggle the dildo a little bit ( a few mm left and right) with the boot still engaged in the binding and the white indicator falls back in line with marks. That seems to make the white indicator work properly. These are my observations, happy to hear if anyone else noticed this too or I am talking bs.

  4. #154
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    488
    Quote Originally Posted by banzai View Post
    Yes Thom, that indeeds resets the indicator. I meant something else though, sorry for not explaining clearer. When you strap the boot in, the white indicator blows past the marks and stays there. Then wiggle the dildo a little bit ( a few mm left and right) with the boot still engaged in the binding and the white indicator falls back in line with marks. That seems to make the white indicator work properly. These are my observations, happy to hear if anyone else noticed this too or I am talking bs.
    I tend to disregard the indicator based on partly your observations, i.e. because of its non-consistent display of FP. My method is rather to, with boot in binding, jerk the dildo sideways. I dont want to see any pivoting motion with low hand force inputs. Just by feel, not quantifiable in any easy way, I just increase FP until the heel piece responds as I want it to.

  5. #155
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    my own little world
    Posts
    3,163

    P18 Pivot FKS forward pressure - ignore the indicator?

    I find it amusing how, throughout the thread, the message has been “the indicators kind of suck and you don’t need them anyways, just make sure the boot fully engages the binding, the dildo pops like it’s excited to go, and there isn’t any play in the heel when engaged” and we continue to try to find ways for the indicators to work.

    It’s all pretty qualitative, true, but this is skiing where some people like 120 waisted skis on hard snow days and we use words like “playful” to describe skis. Y’all should be able to handle this.
    focus.

  6. #156
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Golden
    Posts
    391
    Re: mounting for a 5mm shorter bsl

    Jigs with the part no: FC0F001 should be mounted on the proper BSL. Do not mount for a smaller BSLClick image for larger version. 

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  7. #157
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    1,159
    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenBC View Post
    Re: mounting for a 5mm shorter bsl

    Jigs with the part no: FC0F001 should be mounted on the proper BSL. Do not mount for a smaller BSLClick image for larger version. 

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    With that jig I set the jig to the bsl and drill the toe holes with the jig line on the mounting line. I then shorten the jig by 5mm and after aligning the jig with the toe holes I drill the heel holes. This method gives an 'on the line' mount location and a perfect forward pressure setting when the heel is bang on it's mid range of adjustment, ie in the middle of the centre knurled ring.

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    3,284

    P18 Pivot FKS forward pressure - ignore the indicator?

    ^ this is in the exact process my shop use to do. It results a boot on the line, and adjustment in the middle of the pivot arms.
    The look manual even says “close the jig 5mm”, but does not describe the methodology.

  9. #159
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    OR
    Posts
    1,753
    I used a paper template recently and with correct forward pressure i'm much closer to the front of the adjustment range than the middle. anyone else? the pivot is a finicky creature

    edit: but the paper template did put me at the correct boot center mark, so like the jig method mentioned above where you just have to adjust the heel up a bit....maybe not a full 5 mm though. I dunno

  10. #160
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    10,335
    Quote Originally Posted by klauss View Post
    I used a paper template recently and with correct forward pressure i'm much closer to the front of the adjustment range than the middle. anyone else? the pivot is a finicky creature
    I've had the same experience with paper templates. Using a jigarex I'm at the middle of the adjustment range. I wonder if the BSL markings on the paper template are a little off?

  11. #161
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    3,284
    Dont quote me, but I remember the original template (circa 2009) being a bit off, and it was measured and corrected against the holes drilled by a shop jig, with the 5mm closed process.
    This was way back in the "verified" and non verified days when the paper jigs were first being produced.
    Back in 2009:
    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    Thanks for the heads up. Just to clarify, was the BCL spot on based on the toe location? I think the just scale on the heelpiece BCL might be messed up, I'll take a closer look. I have FKS sitting in a box at home, so I can test this one sometime soon.
    The point I am making is the paper template has the "Look manual's procedure of closing the jig 5mm" built into it.

  12. #162
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    23,166
    I use the binding as the template to mark holes and so far

    its always been correct
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  13. #163
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Golden
    Posts
    391
    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderjon View Post
    With that jig I set the jig to the bsl and drill the toe holes with the jig line on the mounting line. I then shorten the jig by 5mm and after aligning the jig with the toe holes I drill the heel holes. This method gives an 'on the line' mount location and a perfect forward pressure setting when the heel is bang on it's mid range of adjustment, ie in the middle of the centre knurled ring.
    I am curious why we are finding something different.

    I mounted one with the BSL correct, on the line, and it came out perfectly. Perfect forward pressure, on the line, in the middle of the range.

    I tried one with the jig 5mm smaller. Way too tight forward pressure. I'm going to scroll back through the posts and see what you consider the right FP. I like it with the boot stepping on the heel of the binding by ~2mm.

  14. #164
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    1,228
    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenBC View Post
    I am curious why we are finding something different.

    I mounted one with the BSL correct, on the line, and it came out perfectly. Perfect forward pressure, on the line, in the middle of the range.

    I tried one with the jig 5mm smaller. Way too tight forward pressure. I'm going to scroll back through the posts and see what you consider the right FP. I like it with the boot stepping on the heel of the binding by ~2mm.
    I also have that jig and don't move anything and it puts me at the perfect pressure. It produces the same results as the jigarex for me.

  15. #165
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    3,284
    I don’t think you guys have enough forward pressure, but what do I know, Gwat is just going to tell me I’m wrong.
    IMHO the heel of the boot needs to hit the vertical surface of the dildo mid way towards the horizontal surface. If the heel is dropping into the binding and hitting the horizontal surface first, there is not enough forward pressure.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Look at where my wear marks are from my Dynafit inserts hitting the vertical plane of the heel piece.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  16. #166
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    CO/UT
    Posts
    3,078
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    I don’t think you guys have enough forward pressure, but what do I know, Gwat is just going to tell me I’m wrong.
    IMHO the heel of the boot needs to hit the vertical surface of the dildo mid way towards the horizontal surface. If the heel is dropping into the binding and hitting the horizontal surface first, there is not enough forward pressure.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Look at where my wear marks are from my Dynafit inserts hitting the vertical plane of the heel piece.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm no ski tech or expert, but this is how mine are all set up as well.

  17. #167
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    90
    What's the best technique to compress the toe spring in order to thread the toe screw on? I'm having a hell of a time here...

  18. #168
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    1,228
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    I don’t think you guys have enough forward pressure, but what do I know, Gwat is just going to tell me I’m wrong.
    IMHO the heel of the boot needs to hit the vertical surface of the dildo mid way towards the horizontal surface. If the heel is dropping into the binding and hitting the horizontal surface first, there is not enough forward pressure.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Look at where my wear marks are from my Dynafit inserts hitting the vertical plane of the heel piece.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I agree with this, the twist method always ends up like this.

  19. #169
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Fernie and/or Smithers
    Posts
    1,309
    ^the threads should be catching before there is any spring compression.

    Likely the white plastic spacer behind the spring is not properly seated in the metal housing.

    First, make sure it is oriented properly - wide end against the spring and narrow end into the toe housing.

    Insert the spring but before you put the screw on, push the spring in and wiggle, while holding the end of the metal rod securely in place (the square end by the front of the boot lug). The plastic spacer should snap into the housing and the screw will thread on no problem.

    Dee, sorry I hit a nerve last month. Simple misinterpretation on both sides I’d say..I’m sure you are fully competent with these bindings.
    Vive la single dildo angle!

    And ya my heels brush the binding by ~1mm too...

  20. #170
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    90
    Quote Originally Posted by gwat View Post
    ^the threads should be catching before there is any spring compression.

    Likely the white plastic spacer behind the spring is not properly seated in the metal housing.

    First, make sure it is oriented properly - wide end against the spring and narrow end into the toe housing.

    Insert the spring but before you put the screw on, push the spring in and wiggle, while holding the end of the metal rod securely in place (the square end by the front of the boot lug). The plastic spacer should snap into the housing and the screw will thread on no problem
    Thanks. I was trying to brute force it down and ended up dropping it and pieces went everywhere. I put it all back together and it threaded on no problem, so I must have just had something out of alignment or backwards.

  21. #171
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    513
    I'm mounting some Pivots tonight and read through this entire thread.

    One thing I'm still confused about, how many beers is this project?

  22. #172
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Imaginationland
    Posts
    3,950
    Eleventeen

  23. #173
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Posts
    1

    Pivot 18 Video

    Found a good YouTube video on the web: "How to Mount Your Own Skis" from "Ski Sled Shred". Used that and this thread to mount my new Pivot 18's on my old skis.

    Thanks!

  24. #174
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    1,159
    Just had an email from someone wanting a Look FCFF001 jig - unfortunately it went in to my spam folder and I accidently deleted it. I think the persons name was Jonas.

    So if it was you please resend the email, although Look are still out of stock of the jigs but I can put you on my waiting list.

  25. #175
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    1,228
    Anyone know why you can’t mount the Look SPX 15 Rockerace to a normal ski? Mount pattern seems the same as the spx 12 which you can mount normal, does it just come with the wrong type of screws for non-race plates?

    Also funny that it has a DIN of 7-15 and the pivot 15 is 6-15. Those must be the same springs?

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