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  1. #51
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    Nov 2008
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    456
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    = boat anchor
    They are heavy, but so are P18’s.


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  2. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Whistler
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowroastin View Post
    They are heavy, but so are P18’s.
    P18 = 1235 g (2.72 lbs) each
    PX15 = 1415 g (3.12 lbs) each

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    456
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    P18 = 1235 g (2.72 lbs) each
    PX15 = 1415 g (3.12 lbs) each
    The 180 gram boat anchor may be worth the tradeoff to some in regards to boot size adjustment, simple forward pressure setting and durability.






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  4. #54
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    267
    Anyone have any experience with a loose/wiggly 18 din toe pieces? I can wiggle it from side to side

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    646
    Quote Originally Posted by mr_pretzel View Post
    Anyone have any experience with a loose/wiggly 18 din toe pieces? I can wiggle it from side to side
    Are the screws tight? the ones that hold it to the ski? Or do you mean it wiggles from the post?

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    267
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    Are the screws tight? the ones that hold it to the ski? Or do you mean it wiggles from the post?
    From the post

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Los Angeles/Mammoth
    Posts
    515
    Quote Originally Posted by mr_pretzel View Post
    From the post

    What is the din set at? If you have the din screw backed out, it will wiggle.

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Fernie and/or Smithers
    Posts
    1,180
    A hair of play is normal.
    If you have slop take it apart and check the bushing on the post. (I've never seen one worn out...)
    Do what you like, Like what you do.

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Roadtrippin' Summit County
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    1,668
    Now that this thread has accepted minor drift away from fwd pressure topics...

    Hey FKS experts! Please see missing plastic "plug" in the joint on the right side of photo below:
    Just ski it as is? Or unsafe, needs to be retired? Or just plug it with custom-shaped whittled plastic for cosmetics? Or plug it with more structural JB-stick, but in a way that won't lock up the spinning cylinder for adjusting arm length? Or what?


    .
    "My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane

    "I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy

    - TRADE your heavy BILLYGOATS or PROTESTS for my lightweight versions at this thread

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    GMT+1
    Posts
    31
    Brought a pair of Pivots to see if they are any good?
    Now that I've mounted the bindings, I've tried to get the forward pressure correct . How much force is required to pivot the turntable when the forward pressure is correct?

    I get a good snap when you put the ski boot i the binding and the indicator seems to line up. but how much pivot action is reasonable if you grab the heel piece and try to turn it? The indicator seems kind of inaccurate...

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    1,499

    P18 Pivot FKS forward pressure - ignore the indicator?

    Did you read through this thread? The whole thing is about how to set the forward pressure on pivots...
    Last edited by Muggydude; 09-30-2018 at 12:33 PM.

  12. #62
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    Nov 2010
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    GMT+1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muggydude View Post
    Did you read through this thread? That’s what is discussed...
    Yes, I did
    I'm unsure about how much and if you should be able to pivot the turntable by moderate force? If you twist the heelpice.

    Is it normal that the adjusting rods are rubbing against the ski boot? Not by much..

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  13. #63
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    1,547
    Quote Originally Posted by revolutionrock View Post
    Yes, I did
    I'm unsure about how much and if you should be able to pivot the turntable by moderate force? If you twist the heelpice.

    Is it normal that the adjusting rods are rubbing against the ski boot? Not by much..

    Skickat från min G8341 via Tapatalk
    You don't pivot/rotate it to test, you press down the dildo/open the binding till the spring is horizontal to the ski and let go. If the boot snaps back into place you're good, if it pops out its not right.

    Try loosening both the wings evenly a bunch, then testing with this method and tightening them both evenly one click at a time till the binding snaps back into place instead of ejecting the boot.

    Done.

  14. #64
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    1,536
    Quote Originally Posted by Vitamin I View Post
    Now that this thread has accepted minor drift away from fwd pressure topics...

    Hey FKS experts! Please see missing plastic "plug" in the joint on the right side of photo below:
    Just ski it as is? Or unsafe, needs to be retired? Or just plug it with custom-shaped whittled plastic for cosmetics? Or plug it with more structural JB-stick, but in a way that won't lock up the spinning cylinder for adjusting arm length? Or what?


    .
    Cosmetic. Ski it.

    Only thing to consider is that it might be more likely to catch on the inside pant leg. Just mount that on the outside edge and you should be good.

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    North Vancouver
    Posts
    989
    Quote Originally Posted by revolutionrock View Post
    Yes, I did
    I'm unsure about how much and if you should be able to pivot the turntable by moderate force? If you twist the heelpice.

    Is it normal that the adjusting rods are rubbing against the ski boot? Not by much..

    Skickat från min G8341 via Tapatalk
    Hey, yeah "moderate force". So you're not cranking it but a little bit of effort.

    basically I adjust the forward pressure till the dildo snaps up, super. But then I lift up and down hard on the boot and watch my brake arms to see if any movement. I have found I want the fp dialed in to the point just past where I would see movement in the brake arms and the dildo takes a firm touch to rotate it.

    look at pivots in the lift line. You will often see heels with huge slop when skier unweights a leg. That's not what you want but nobody's dying on these either.

    hope that helps a bit.

  16. #66
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    GMT+1
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    31
    I haven't skied with the pivots yet. What worries me is that the pivots seems to leave marks in my ski boots (tecnica cochise). Don't know if the cochise plastic is known to be soft? Too much pressure on these points when clicking the boot in?

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Roadtrippin' Summit County
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    1,668
    Quote Originally Posted by revolutionrock View Post
    I haven't skied with the pivots yet. What worries me is that the pivots seems to leave marks in my ski boots (tecnica cochise). Don't know if the cochise plastic is known to be soft? Too much pressure on these points when clicking the boot in?
    Have a look at my earlier post in this thread at https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...09#post4975309

    That point, and also...When fiddling/adjusting these bindings, I'm guessing you want the DIN already set to your final setting first. (I.E. Don't have the DIN set lower during fiddling/adjusting, or else the dildo might be moving around within its elastic range more than it will during actual skiing, yielding misleading observations during fiddling.)

    .
    "My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane

    "I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy

    - TRADE your heavy BILLYGOATS or PROTESTS for my lightweight versions at this thread

  18. #68
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    GMT+1
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    31
    When I adjusted the forward pressure I used the method by looking at the skibrakes for movement when pulling up/down on the ski Boot. And when there is no moment in the brakes this is too much forward pressure because of the marks on the boots..

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  19. #69
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Roadtrippin' Summit County
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    1,668
    Quote Originally Posted by revolutionrock View Post
    When I adjusted the forward pressure I used the method by looking at the skibrakes for movement when pulling up/down on the ski Boot. And when there is no moment in the brakes this is too much forward pressure because of the marks on the boots..
    Maybe someone else with more FKS experience will chime in.

    Until then... Without knowing the optimal solution, I know I would put highest priority on preserving my boots. So I would decrease forward pressure until it stopped chewing dents into my boots, and then maybe I'd increase DIN so that the heel would stay down (instead of the heel moving up into its elastic range and letting the brakes move down to contact the snow). I am not a fan of the large elastic travel distance in the FKS design---not sure why pretty much everyone seems to consider it a good thing.

    .
    "My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane

    "I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy

    - TRADE your heavy BILLYGOATS or PROTESTS for my lightweight versions at this thread

  20. #70
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    GMT+1
    Posts
    31
    Hi!
    I have now set the forward pressure so that the heelpice leaves no marks/dents I the boot. Now I get movement in the brakes when pulling the boot up/down (not much play).

    Maybe this is too lose but it the setting that's leave no dent in the boots...
    Feels like the cochise 130 have softer plastic (and maybe the rubber sole in the heel makes the boot little higher, not by much?)

    Thanks again for your input.

    Skickat från min G8341 via Tapatalk
    Last edited by revolutionrock; 11-04-2018 at 12:09 PM.

  21. #71
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Den/Baltimore
    Posts
    4,736
    Quote Originally Posted by Vitamin I View Post
    So I would decrease forward pressure until it stopped chewing dents into my boots, and then maybe I'd increase DIN so that the heel would stay down (instead of the heel moving up into its elastic range and letting the brakes move down to contact the snow).
    I'm not the most experienced person here, but, IME as detailed earlier in this thread, increased DIN can't make up for lack of fwd pressure. At 5'11" and 165#, I have walked out of FKS in certain situations with the DIN at 11 with too little forward pressure. I have also successfully skied a pair of bindings with the DIN turned all the way down for the summer for two days, but the forward pressure set correctly. (They worked fine at speed, but released when I tried to turn in pow at very slow speeds when the skis were submerged.) As always, YMMV but I'd be careful of decreasing the forward pressure. Grilamid lowers get chewed up more easily -- it's not just the Cochise with that issue.

    I am not a fan of the large elastic travel distance in the FKS design---not sure why pretty much everyone seems to consider it a good thing.
    Why is that? (I'm assuming you're familiar with the argument for lots of elastic travel so I won't repeat it.)
    "Alpine rock and steep, deep powder are what I seek, and I will always find solace there." - Bean Bowers

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  22. #72
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    GMT+1
    Posts
    31
    Well, the forward pressure isn't super loose. But I do get some movement in the brakes when pulling the boot up/down

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