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Thread: Truck Tire Time

  1. #801
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    Quote Originally Posted by Name Redacted View Post
    I'm now have worked myself into a it of a quandary. Analysis paralysis as it were.

    New truck, don't want to crash, live in CO mountains, 7 months of winter, usually dry snow, but wet on the shoulder seasons. Commute over multiple mountain passes on the regular. Truck is a Taco.

    Right now I have the stock Wrangler Kevlars the truck came with. They are ok, but not great on snow/ice. Tread depth leaves something to be desired. I do a fair amount of 4wheeling in the summer so I'll be needing something like a KO2 for that soon anyway. No lift on the truck.

    DO I?
    A) buy new snow tires now and throw them on the stock rims, probably Nokian Haka's, then switch tires back and forth, probably buy KO2s next summer. Keep stock rims, which I don't love (aesthetically)
    B) just go ahead and buy BFG KO2's like I've always had, and I trust them in the snow because I've driven them for almost 2 decades
    C) Throw down for new rims and the KO2's, then sell the slightly used (less than 10K miles) stock rims and tires
    D) Something else? Falken Wildpeaks seem to be popular on this truck. No idea on snow performance.
    E) Just stick with what I have and drive like a granny all winter hoping not to crash.

    Right now I'm leaning towards just dropping $1900 for new wheels and KO2's from 4wheel parts and have them mounted and delivered to my door.
    I'm on my 3rd year with Falken Wildpeaks. They won't be as good as a quality dedicated snow tire, but for a long wearing tire they do very well with snow, mud, and sand. They aren't much better than a quality all season tire on ice though has been my experience. They have held up well to mileage. If you want a "one tire quiver" they are a good choice. They don't hold a candle to the Nokians I had on my VW wagon for winter conditions though.

  2. #802
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    Sep 2006
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    @ shred
    I vote for 2 sets of tires on 2 sets of rims.
    Caveat I haven’t tried the “all weathers” yet but they certainly have mixed reviews from real blizzard chasers.
    Also a fan of patronizing the local tire shop. Probably more nails around here than up there but have cashed out road hazard ins many many times over.

  3. #803
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rideski View Post
    @ shred
    I vote for 2 sets of tires on 2 sets of rims.
    Definitely the best choice if you want the best performance. Dedicated snow and ice tires don't wear as long for a reason. I keep getting closer every year but just carry chains in case it gets real nasty. But chains aren't much use on the interstate or very helpful not sliding into the person that cuts you off in traffic under icy conditions. Although they are great for beating their ass when you catch up to them.

    The Wildpeaks have been solid on interstate slush and heavy snow. They just mow that crap down.


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  4. #804
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkiLyft View Post
    100% get two sets of wheels and swap your own!


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    This question gets asked over and over, and the answer is always the same, and correct as noted above.
    "We don't beat the reaper by living longer, we beat the reaper by living well and living fully." - Randy Pausch

  5. #805
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    Truck Tire Time

    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    i just wondered how home tecktalkers do it
    (i hate that persistent error light when the sensors are triggered)
    2018 tundra here, so can only speak for my truck but... I had the tire shop install an extra set of TPMS sensors (OE Yota) in the new wheels/tires. When I swapped the tires all I needed to do was reset the TPMS system and the truck will auto sync to the new sensors!



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    Last edited by SkiLyft; 10-28-2020 at 10:40 PM.

  6. #806
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    Ghetto fix if you can't stand the dash light: toss all the sensors into a sealed 3" pipe w/ schrader valve and pump er up. Downside is the pipebomb under the backseat.
    life ain't guaranteed, love your people while you can

  7. #807
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    Not as fun but a piece of black tape over the light.

  8. #808
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    A. Who cares what your rims look like.

  9. #809
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    Quote Originally Posted by MakersTeleMark View Post
    A. Who cares what your rims look like.
    Stock rims are for plebs!

  10. #810
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norseman View Post
    Ghetto fix if you can't stand the dash light: toss all the sensors into a sealed 3" pipe w/ schrader valve and pump er up. Downside is the pipebomb under the backseat.
    That is one of the best solutions Iíve ever heard of.


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  11. #811
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norseman View Post
    Ghetto fix if you can't stand the dash light: toss all the sensors into a sealed 3" pipe w/ schrader valve and pump er up. Downside is the pipebomb under the backseat.
    this is a win!

  12. #812
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norseman View Post
    Ghetto fix if you can't stand the dash light: toss all the sensors into a sealed 3" pipe w/ schrader valve and pump er up. Downside is the pipebomb under the backseat.
    TPMS sensors only need some minimum to turn off the light, like 25-30 psi, so it won't be that dangerous of a pipe bomb. And it should work from wherever the spare tire is, so strap it under the vehicle.

    And try not to get your car searched by Homeland or border patrol.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  13. #813
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norseman View Post
    Ghetto fix if you can't stand the dash light: toss all the sensors into a sealed 3" pipe w/ schrader valve and pump er up. Downside is the pipebomb under the backseat.
    I don't think that'll work with Ford sensors; they go into a deep-sleep/battery-preservation mode until they get enough motion, hence needing to drive for something like five minutes without stops before you get readings or can train the system. I don't know if any other manufacturers are the same way, but at least with current-generation Fords, you can turn off the TPMS system with ForSCAN.

    I got a set of four sensors for something like $60 on eBay. They claim to be Ford OEM, but I have no idea if that's true or if they're just a convincing clone with Ford markings. The truck automagically recognizes both the change in sensors and which wheel each is at after I swap over; I'm not quite sure how, but it does work.

  14. #814
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    Quote Originally Posted by Name Redacted View Post
    Stock rims are for plebs!

    The vain and stupid among us reveal themselves.
    I remember a bottomless freedom...

  15. #815
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    Quote Originally Posted by glademaster View Post
    The vain and stupid among us reveal themselves.
    You gotta be pretty stupid to think I was serious.

  16. #816
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    Went with some Nokian Nord 7's (non-studded) on the stock rims. Got the same on the wife's Rav4 too.
    ETA: apparently the Nordsman 7 is the Haka 7 rebranded since the Haka 9's came out with fancy glass shit in them, if anyone is interested.

    I'll probably sell the Kevlar Wranglers (265/70 R16) if anyone is looking ~$300


    Probably still end up with some KO2's in the spring, on a new set of rims so I can switch em out. Hopefully that's not too bourgeois, I'd hate to ruin my street cred!

  17. #817
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    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    [ETA]vehicle is full size freedom truck chevy2500hd
    Chevy trucks have an easy way of resetting them. You can select it through the vehicle menu buttons to reset tire positions, or some you hold down the lock and unlock buttons. There should be info online on how to reset tpms for your year/model online.

  18. #818
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    Quote Originally Posted by Name Redacted View Post
    Went with some Nokian Nord 7's (non-studded) on the stock rims. Got the same on the wife's Rav4 too.
    ETA: apparently the Nordsman 7 is the Haka 7 rebranded since the Haka 9's came out with fancy glass shit in them, if anyone is interested.

    I'll probably sell the Kevlar Wranglers (265/70 R16) if anyone is looking ~$300


    Probably still end up with some KO2's in the spring, on a new set of rims so I can switch em out. Hopefully that's not too bourgeois, I'd hate to ruin my street cred!
    Well done!
    "We don't beat the reaper by living longer, we beat the reaper by living well and living fully." - Randy Pausch

  19. #819
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    Just put some new Michelin LTX Defenders on my 4Runner. Last pair lasted 5 years (about 65k + miles)and still had plenty of tread left but wanted new ones.

    Snow tires arenít needed where I live and 92% of my driving is pavement so these are perfect for year round

    Click image for larger version. 

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  20. #820
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    Decided to go with the Blizzak LT's for my 4Runner in the 255/75R17 size. I have KO2's in the 275/70R17 for my summer tires, so this will keep the diameter the same while being slightly narrower. I was thinking about the Hakka's, but I feel like studs are hard to justify in Colorado with how much dry road driving you do in the winter here.

    I'm sure they'll perform well, but I'm curious to see how they hold up.
    I remember a bottomless freedom...

  21. #821
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    Why change the KO2ís at all? I thought they were a well recommended snow capable tire. Are the Blizzakís that much better?

  22. #822
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    Yes, dedicated snow tires are that much better. I've always run dedicated winter wheels/tires in the past, and last winter I figured I would try just rolling KO2's year-round, since I have a 4Runner with full time 4wd. That was the first and last time I do that. The KO2's are good in fresh snow and are pretty good in slush, but on ice or hardpacked snow they were passable at best. The rubber is too hard and they don't have enough siping to be a truly good winter tire. One or two white knuckle moments was all it took for me to bite the bullet and spend $2k on a dedicated winter setup.

    That being said, they do well for an all-season, and are good enough in winter conditions that you can reserve your snow tires for the heart of winter, instead of using them from Halloween to Memorial Day so they're toast after 2 winters. My set has almost 65,000 miles on them, and will be good for another 20-30k.

    I'm a believer in running the best snow tires you can afford, while driving like you're on all-seasons.
    I remember a bottomless freedom...

  23. #823
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    Quote Originally Posted by glademaster View Post
    Decided to go with the Blizzak LT's for my 4Runner in the 255/75R17 size. I have KO2's in the 275/70R17 for my summer tires, so this will keep the diameter the same while being slightly narrower. I was thinking about the Hakka's, but I feel like studs are hard to justify in Colorado with how much dry road driving you do in the winter here.

    I'm sure they'll perform well, but I'm curious to see how they hold up.
    Haka's and Nords come w/o studs too FYI.

    I've rocked KO2's for about 15+ years in CO winters. This will be my first season with actual snow tires (Nord 7's, no studs) on my truck. I'll try to report back after a while. Main deciding factor was new truck + newer longer commute over a narrow, curvy mountain rd.

    Murphy's law says some dumbass with shitty tires will probably ram me anyway.

  24. #824
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    Truck Tire Time

    Iím doing the same this year : going from an ďall seasonĒ winter capable tire to a high end dedicated winter tire.
    But my all season is a cheapass house-branded model I canít even name without going over to the truck to look, not a KO2

  25. #825
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    Yeah, I know you can get them without studs, but I was torn over what size to go with in a Nokian. I have some sort of hang up about running stock size tires on my cars. Really hoping they release the Hakk LT3 in a 255/75R17 in a few years. It's a great size for a 5th gen 4Runner and the stock size for the Heap Wrangler, so you would think the demand would be there.

    Another factor was that the Blizzak is an C-rated LT tire, which is about perfect for something like a 4Runner. I don't need an E-rated snow tire on a 5000 pound SUV.
    I remember a bottomless freedom...

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