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Thread: Truck Tire Time

  1. #1001
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    Having had Duratracs, I would say get some Hankook Dynapro ATMS. Same mountain snow flake rating as duratrac but better in snow. Quieter on the road. Mud is the only thing they’re not better in.


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  2. #1002
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wes Mantooth View Post
    Has anyone here run the Cooper Discoverer ST Maxx, specifically in winter? I'm currently running Duratracs on my 01 Tacoma and been super happy with them but they're nearing the end of their life and I just got a sidewall gash on a trail that's led to a very minor slow leak. I'm looking at the ST Maxx since it comes in a perfect size for what I'm looking for (255/85/16) vs getting Duratracs again but haven't found a ton of info on their winter performance. I don't drive my truck a ton in the winter so I don't have a good enough use case for dedicated winter tires, but I need them to be okay getting to trailheads and the ski hill on shitty icy/snowy roads. They don't have the same snow rating as the Duratrac but I'm not sure how much that really matters - it's an A/T tire after all so nothing's gonna be amazingly grippy

    I ran a set of STMaxx on my Tundra and now have Duratracs, both 295/70R17.

    I really liked the Coopers, but winter traction was the weakest attribute. They were fine when new and sharp-edged, but by the second winter they were poor on packed snow and just ok in deeper snow. There's just not enough siping to let the tread blocks expand and grab.

    But as a summer tire they were kickass. Fairly quiet and wore well, great dry traction on rock, dirt, sand. Their 3-ply poly sidewall is a feature that shouldn't be overlooked... they are stiffer and more responsive than the Duratrac, and a good bit more resistant to damage. As you noted, the 2-ply sidewalls on the Duratrac are a weak point for an otherwise aggressive A/T. Duratracs are squirmier.

    Duratracs are better in winter but not by some huge amount.

    Got studded Nokians now

  3. #1003
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    Quote Originally Posted by axebiker View Post
    I'm with you - and they aren't going to get any cheaper/more available.

    Going back - I have Falken Wildpeak AT's on my Crosstrek (17") and my Ram 1500 (20"), and have to say I'm quite impressed by their feel & performance so far. The Ram tires were used - about 1250 miles, but I really like how quiet for an AT tire they are on my Crosstrek, and for $600, how could I go wrong? They drive much like a road tire as well. Time will tell once the weather turns, but honestly, we haven't even seen rain in MN in what seems like months. I guess the air quality is bad enough to need AT tires though.
    I put wildpeaks on my RAV4 in January and have loved them. They were great in the weird freezing rain/snow event we got in Portland over the winter which was the most challenging road conditions I’ve seen in a long time. Time will tell how they do in their second winter since I’m leaving them on for the summer.

  4. #1004
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    Quote Originally Posted by CascadeLuke View Post
    Thought I’d run this by the collective.. roughed up the sidewall on two tires. Have discount tire certificates (ins) for free replacement. My question is; tires have 25,000 miles on them and about 35-40% life left. Should I buy the other two out of pocket and keep the set of 4 straight on an awd? Just suck it up, now?
    Leaning yes
    DiscountTire told me if I purchased certs for all 4 tires and one needed replacement on my AWD, they would prorate the other 3 if tread was too low. 35-40% left sounds definitely too low (generally 4/32 difference or 1/4” diameter).

    Keep on them until they discount the other 2 tires.

  5. #1005
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    Ain’t y’all heard? Trucks are out. Siennas are the new vehicle of choice for the urban male. I recommend Nokians.

  6. #1006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    DiscountTire told me if I purchased certs for all 4 tires and one needed replacement on my AWD, they would prorate the other 3 if tread was too low. 35-40% left sounds definitely too low (generally 4/32 difference or 1/4” diameter).

    Keep on them until they discount the other 2 tires.
    Good info thanks

  7. #1007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norseman View Post
    I ran a set of STMaxx on my Tundra and now have Duratracs, both 295/70R17.

    I really liked the Coopers, but winter traction was the weakest attribute. They were fine when new and sharp-edged, but by the second winter they were poor on packed snow and just ok in deeper snow. There's just not enough siping to let the tread blocks expand and grab.

    But as a summer tire they were kickass. Fairly quiet and wore well, great dry traction on rock, dirt, sand. Their 3-ply poly sidewall is a feature that shouldn't be overlooked... they are stiffer and more responsive than the Duratrac, and a good bit more resistant to damage. As you noted, the 2-ply sidewalls on the Duratrac are a weak point for an otherwise aggressive A/T. Duratracs are squirmier.

    Duratracs are better in winter but not by some huge amount.

    Got studded Nokians now
    Good info, thanks. That's about what I expected, I'm just trying to determine if they'll be passable since it definitely looks like a perfect summer tire for my uses which is >80% of the time this truck spends out and about. I want to go up to something around 33" so with my 16 inch rims that's almost always gonna be an E rated tire which will be quite stiff for a truck of that size but will have the stronger sidewall. I like the ST Maxx not only for the tread pattern but the 255/85/16 "pizza cutter" size comes out to a true 33" and risks fewer rubbing issues which are notoriously challenging on first gens. If I stuck with Duratracs my option would be 285/75. I'm not too interested in hacking apart the truck to fit new tires (I'd do that if I was going for 35's or something) but I would like to get 33's in there if I can since that's kinda the sweet spot for 4.88 gearing
    Quote Originally Posted by other grskier View Post
    well, in the three years i've been skiing i bet i can ski most anything those 'pro's' i listed can, probably

  8. #1008
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    Truck Tire Time

    As of this week, I’m new to truckin, new to truck tires, and new to towing. Anyone on this thread pulling a trailer in mountains in the winter? Favorite tire under a 3/4 ton for doing so?

    Right now I’ve got LT275/70R18 under a 10k GVWR 4x4 gasser. Right now no plan to change tire diameter - on a 3.73 axle. And I plan to be pulling up to 7000 lbs trailer in the winter.

    Is it worth getting a separate set of rims with E rated 3PMSF tires? Or just run them year round here in western Oregon (100F days during summer, 35F days during winter and a fuckton of rain during fall winter and spring).
    EDIT- I don’t plan on any real off-roading, but definitely lots of time running up steepish gravel roads with 300 lbs of mountain bikes on the back of the truck …

    Current tires are Mich LTX AT2s. Datecode is from 2015 so they are due for replacement soon anyways despite great tread remaining.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  9. #1009
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    As of this week, I’m new to truckin, new to truck tires, and new to towing. Anyone on this thread pulling a trailer in mountains in the winter? Favorite tire under a 3/4 ton for doing so?

    Right now I’ve got LT275/70R18 under a 10k GVWR 4x4 gasser. Right now no plan to change tire diameter - on a 3.73 axle. And I plan to be pulling up to 7000 lbs trailer in the winter.

    Is it worth getting a separate set of rims with E rated 3PMSF tires? Or just run them year round here in western Oregon (100F days during summer, 35F days during winter and a fuckton of rain during fall winter and spring).
    EDIT- I don’t plan on any real off-roading, but definitely lots of time running up steepish gravel roads with 300 lbs of mountain bikes on the back of the truck …

    Current tires are Mich LTX AT2s. Datecode is from 2015 so they are due for replacement soon anyways despite great tread remaining.
    You're going to get a million different responses on tire choices...

    Re: towing in winter - as you said you are brand new to trucks and towing, be very cautious towing in slippery conditions. I am not new to it, and I think towing in snow sucks - to the point where I will not do it.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  10. #1010
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    Truck Tire Time

    And you’re likely to chain-up in winter if the roads are slick.

  11. #1011
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    You're going to get a million different responses on tire choices...

    Re: towing in winter - as you said you are brand new to trucks and towing, be very cautious towing in slippery conditions. I am not new to it, and I think towing in snow sucks - to the point where I will not do it.
    Yup and yup. Count me in the camp of not into towing in the winter. I'm kind of a sissy though.

    I'm happy with the 275/70R18 General Grabber A/Tx I put on my F150. Its not a 3/4 ton but crew cab with 6.5' bed and a topper, so not totally different. Snowflake rated, decent snow performance, stable towing my 4,500lb travel trailer. Though I have 30k on them and the siping will probably be totally gone in another 5-10k as it isn't full depth.

  12. #1012
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    Quote Originally Posted by gaijin View Post
    Those are really popular here in JP.

    Anyone have any experience with rain tires? I’m thinking my next set of summer tires might as well be rain tires.

    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I think the amount of open space in the grooves is more important than tread design. There was an article from a while back where they put the Goodyear Aquatreads on backwards and there was no difference.

  13. #1013
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    Truck Tire Time

    Yo K, I hear ya. I really really really wanted to build a TC setup, but with 2 adults and 2 kids, dog, gear (I.e., MTBs on a hitch extension) I just didn’t have the ton of money to throw down on a diesel dually and Northern Lite and get cramped quarters in return. And also a truck that I would never ever use for errands and MTB shuttling.

    Now I have an immaculate F250 that will be my daily driver (I’m currently a stay at home dad) and MTB shuttle rig. I will definitely throw down for a solid WDH for the eventual trailer RV we are gonna get. And in addition to solid new truck tires, prolly solid new trailer tires too. I’ve been talking with many locals here who tow trailers in the winter including Teh Poacher who lives near me and goes over the same passes I would be going over - he does it every week to get to Bachelor.

    Probably would end up spending $20k less going this route and can put that money toward a sick RV pad with full hookups and canopy, not a bad place for grandpa or aunties and uncles (plus their kids) to stay when visiting us!
    Last edited by SchralphMacchio; 07-31-2021 at 12:53 PM.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  14. #1014
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    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    And you’re likely to chain-up in winter if the roads are slick.
    Yeah I know. Thankfully traffic level at the chain up areas here is nothing like it is in Tahoe. I’ll be fully prepared for this - but hope to rarely have to do it. No chain controls here either, basically honor system. Thankfully I know the roads really well so I should be able to pick my chain up spots at the right elevations based on what’s going on with temps and road coverage.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  15. #1015
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    If you are dead set on towing a travel trailer in winter, plan on chaining the trailer tires when it gets slick. Not when highway patrol or checkpoints enforce it, but when it is slick. Don't push your luck.

    When your trailer goes sideways and starts to drag the ass end of the truck with it, you'll realize very quickly how much it sucks to tow in snow.

    WDH + snow = it's going to suck.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  16. #1016
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    If you are dead set on towing a travel trailer in winter, plan on chaining the trailer tires when it gets slick. Not when highway patrol or checkpoints enforce it, but when it is slick. Don't push your luck.

    When your trailer goes sideways and starts to drag the ass end of the truck with it, you'll realize very quickly how much it sucks to tow in snow.

    WDH + snow = it's going to suck.
    This^^^

  17. #1017
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    Yup. I hear you. So does washing poop diapers instead of using disposables. But you sometimes you don’t make great choices to accomplish a valuable goal.

    This isn’t the towing and WDH on snow thread, it’s the what tires should I use when going slow and pulling a big trailer on plowed snow, before I inevitably have to chain up, thread?

    Costco, Les Schwab, and Discount Tire (America’s Tire) are my main tire shops here, in order of preference.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  18. #1018
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    Yup. I hear you. So does washing poop diapers instead of using disposables. But you sometimes you don’t make great choices to accomplish a valuable goal.

    This isn’t the towing and WDH on snow thread, it’s the what tires should I use when going slow and pulling a big trailer on plowed snow, before I inevitably have to chain up, thread?

    Costco, Les Schwab, and Discount Tire (America’s Tire) are my main tire shops here, in order of preference.
    I don't think you're listening. I'm not trying to be an asshole about this, but if you're towing on snow, your trailer needs to have chains on the tires. There's no "wait until I think it starts sliding, then do it" - at that point, it's too late.

    It is very very hard to control a large trailer sliding sideways and dragging your tow vehicle along for the ride. In all likelihood, you stop when the whole thing is upside down in the ditch.

    This is not comparable to washing diapers and whether this is the easy way or the hard way. It's more comparable to "listen to those who have done this, so you don't die."
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  19. #1019
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    Truck Tire Time

    Where did I say I would not use chains? Yes I understand I need them on both the drive wheels and the trailer.

    I’m looking to get every bit of margin of safety possible here - that means starting with a foundation of solid tires and adding chains when coverage requires it.

    I fully recognize I have a lot to learn and practice before we load the priceless cargo (my family) into the full setup.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  20. #1020
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    Truck Tire Time

    You said that you would drive slow pulling a big trailer on plowed snow before stopping to chain-up. The point being made, at least by me, is that you should plan to chain-up before you’re pulling a trailer on plowed snow. If you’re pulling your trailer w/o being chained up and you hit sections of plowed snowy road, you probably should have already chained-up.

    Perhaps your tire selection should account for the thought that when you’re on snow and slick roads, you’ll already have chains on the rear axle of the truck and the trailer

  21. #1021
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    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    You said that you would drive slow pulling a big trailer on plowed snow before stopping to chain-up. The point being made, at least by me, is that you should plan to chain-up before you’re pulling a trailer on plowed snow.
    This.

    And if you really want to tow on snow, consider putting E rated LT tires on the trailer, where those tires are 3PMSF rated. ST trailer tires are meant for low rolling resistance, long tread life, and generally have shit traction. Some will argue whether anything other than ST tires are suitable for trailers. YMMV.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  22. #1022
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    Nokian LT3 is E-rated and available in LT275/70-18, which would then allow you to pick a solid 3PMSF-rated tire for the rest of the year.

    Yes, it's expensive up front, but so is bodywork, let alone the other stuff that comes along with expensive crunching noises. Expensive snow tires are still cheaper than even a minor crash.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using TGR Forums mobile app

  23. #1023
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    Where did I say I would not use chains? Yes I understand I need them on both the drive wheels and the trailer.

    I’m looking to get every bit of margin of safety possible here - that means starting with a foundation of solid tires and adding chains when coverage requires it.

    I fully recognize I have a lot to learn and practice before we load the priceless cargo (my family) into the full setup.
    Schralph-

    Just get AT tires for your truck. They should all be fine for what you’re talking about. I prefer bfg atko. Make sure your truck has a brake controller installed. It’s pretty important for towing in slick conditions. Chains are pretty mandatory for towing in any sort of slope with slippery conditions. I live where you live and head to idaho every fall for elk hunting. A lot gnarlier conditions towing fire/ forest roads there than hood or willamette pass. I put chains on the rear truck tires when going uphill and put them on the front going downhill. With 7k you’ll want to do the same on your trailer. Just go slow.

  24. #1024
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    I have two pairs of chains for sell if anyone is interested. Bought them for a truck that ran 265/70/17 tires, I’ll have to see what size range they fit. They are v bars so probably too aggressive for road use.


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  25. #1025
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    As of this week, I’m new to truckin, new to truck tires, and new to towing. Anyone on this thread pulling a trailer in mountains in the winter? Favorite tire under a 3/4 ton for doing so?

    Right now I’ve got LT275/70R18 under a 10k GVWR 4x4 gasser. Right now no plan to change tire diameter - on a 3.73 axle. And I plan to be pulling up to 7000 lbs trailer in the winter.

    Is it worth getting a separate set of rims with E rated 3PMSF tires? Or just run them year round here in western Oregon (100F days during summer, 35F days during winter and a fuckton of rain during fall winter and spring).
    EDIT- I don’t plan on any real off-roading, but definitely lots of time running up steepish gravel roads with 300 lbs of mountain bikes on the back of the truck …

    Current tires are Mich LTX AT2s. Datecode is from 2015 so they are due for replacement soon anyways despite great tread remaining.
    I run E rated tires on my Tundra. KO2s for summer and General Grabber Arctic in the winter. I don’t tow my trailer in the snow very often, but I was very disappointed in the winter performance of the KO2s. The GG Arctic was light years better.


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