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  1. #301
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    Aug 2010
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    225
    Again, sort of...

    A 4runner doesn't need anywhere near a 116 rated tire to carry the load required. It's nice that it comes stock but is unnecessary based on the weight/load capacity of the 4runner. Accordingly, when you run a C rated tire on a 4runner you only need to support the load required. Doesn't mean you need to match the 116 rating of the oem tire. For example a Caddy Escalade ESV comes stock with 111 rated tires and its a heavy beast.

    As far as tire pressure goes: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=196

    So, temp and pressure rise are expected. Again match your load to your tire pressure and nothing to worry about.

    Quote Originally Posted by glademaster View Post
    Well aware of that. Even with the de-rating taken into account, you're going to be airing those C rated tires way up to match the load capacity of the (yes, even de-rated) 116P rated tires that came on my truck.

    I'm not a fan of the chalk test, personally. Determining the contact patch when you're stationary doesn't tell you enough about that contact patch in a dynamic situation (i.e. actually driving down the road) to draw any informed conclusions about what pressure is best. I would argue an IR thermometer would be a more valuable tool than some chalk. The temp difference between my KO2's at 35 PSI and 42 PSI is pretty damn dramatic, even after only 15 or 20 miles of driving in moderate temps.

    And in the name of some levity around these parts: putting stock size tires on a Toyota truck makes the baby Jesus cry, LightRanger.

  2. #302
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    Aug 2010
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    225
    So, no, you cannot run an E tire at a lower pressure than a C rated tire. May need to change "not wrong just an asshole"

    Here is the link: https://www.toyotires.com/media/2125...s_20170203.pdf.

    Page 20 shows any LT tire of the same size at a given pressure has the same load rating. So a C, D, or E tire has the same LR at 40PSI.

    Some really good info in that link if you want to geek out on what tire pressure to run.

    Quote Originally Posted by glademaster View Post

    Most of the C rated tires that fit a 4Runner have load ratings in the 110-115 range, which means you're going to be rolling around at somewhere between 43 and 46 PSI if you want to match the load rating of the stock tires at 32 PSI. That's going to be just as harsh as a properly inflated E rated tire, which would be at 40-42 PSI.

  3. #303
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by glademaster View Post
    And in the name of some levity around these parts: putting stock size tires on a Toyota truck makes the baby Jesus cry, LightRanger.
    Hah. I hear you.

    Would go taller and narrower for snow traction, but harder to find models in that 255 size and Costco only does OEM sizes.

    Pushing 90k now. Probably going to do the Bilstein 5100 swap in the next 30k. Likely set the front a bit higher than stock, but not a ton. Either .75 or 1.5.

    But, honestly, I don't think I'd significantly lift a DD ever again. Last vehicle I owned in the category was a lifted Jeep and always had issues with the suspension. Mileage goes to shit. Don't use the full capabilities enough (compared to when I was in HS and college). Etc. I could see doing it to a third or fourth vehicle, but we're only a two-vehicle family right now.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ernest_Hemingway View Post
    I realize there is not much hope for a bullfighting forum. I understand that most of you would prefer to discuss the ingredients of jacket fabrics than the ingredients of a brave man. I know nothing of the former. But the latter is made of courage, and skill, and grace in the presence of the possibility of death. If someone could make a jacket of those three things it would no doubt be the most popular and prized item in all of your closets.

  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldblue View Post
    So, no, you cannot run an E tire at a lower pressure than a C rated tire. May need to change "not wrong just an asshole"

    Here is the link: https://www.toyotires.com/media/2125...s_20170203.pdf.

    Page 20 shows any LT tire of the same size at a given pressure has the same load rating. So a C, D, or E tire has the same LR at 40PSI.

    Some really good info in that link if you want to geek out on what tire pressure to run.
    That link was super interesting!

    I run P rated tires on my 1/2 ton and have always thought about running load range C tires but after looking at that chart I'd need to run 45 psi minimum to get the same load capacity. Seems like a harsher ride with heavier tires that will likely affect my mileage noticeably, no?

    Other than the fact that the LT tires usually have a deeper tread depth, is there really much advantage to running them if I'm never towing more than 2 or 3000 pounds?

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  5. #305
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    Sep 2006
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    6,399
    Interesting link I found when researching tires that came on my truck.
    Didn’t have time to dig too far in yet.

    https://www.vehicletire.com/Consumer-Complaint

  6. #306
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    Apr 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    That link was super interesting!

    I run P rated tires on my 1/2 ton and have always thought about running load range C tires but after looking at that chart I'd need to run 45 psi minimum to get the same load capacity. Seems like a harsher ride with heavier tires that will likely affect my mileage noticeably, no?

    Other than the fact that the LT tires usually have a deeper tread depth, is there really much advantage to running them if I'm never towing more than 2 or 3000 pounds?

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    LT sidewalls tend to be tougher than P-metric (often due to an additional ply of material). I can't say for sure how much, but I can verify that OEM P-metric tires and rocky USFS roads can be a bad mix.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #307
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    Aug 2006
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    Cooper makes some sizes of the ATW tire model as C rated....

  8. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum View Post
    LT sidewalls tend to be tougher than P-metric (often due to an additional ply of material). I can't say for sure how much, but I can verify that OEM P-metric tires and rocky USFS roads can be a bad mix.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Sent from my SM-G892A using TGR Forums mobile app
    C or E rated in that photo?

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  9. #309
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    I dunno I figured

    more plys

    is like

    more plys
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  10. #310
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    On another tangent.
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    3,855
    FWIW, The snow rated Pathfinder AT at Discount Tire is supposedly made by Hankook. I was about to pull the trigger on AT2's because they were a smoother upgrade from the ATMs, but was told the Pathfinder was basically right in between.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  11. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    C or E rated in that photo?

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    Those are the factory "all-terrain" P-metric tires with less than 1,500 miles on them. I had been planning to run them down before springing for better AT tires, but I had enough time changing that tire at 10,000 feet to contemplate how lucky I was that the weather was good.

    I'm now running E-rated both summer and winter.

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  12. #312
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    Jun 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    Cooper makes some sizes of the ATW tire model as C rated....
    Looks like they're calling it the AT3 4S now.

    Weird change in load range on the chart too. Says "XL" and "STD."

    When I bought ours, I believe it was only available in p-rated and e-rated. They may have since added some C sizes, but definitely wasn't available in 265/70/17 four years ago.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ernest_Hemingway View Post
    I realize there is not much hope for a bullfighting forum. I understand that most of you would prefer to discuss the ingredients of jacket fabrics than the ingredients of a brave man. I know nothing of the former. But the latter is made of courage, and skill, and grace in the presence of the possibility of death. If someone could make a jacket of those three things it would no doubt be the most popular and prized item in all of your closets.

  13. #313
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Summit County
    Posts
    332
    Put 45k on my Hakas on a '17 Taco...Nice not to have to schedule a tire swap each season...granted, I live in Summit, didnt do a ton of off road and dont go to Denver much...

  14. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by LightRanger View Post
    Looks like they're calling it the AT3 4S now.

    Weird change in load range on the chart too. Says "XL" and "STD."

    When I bought ours, I believe it was only available in p-rated and e-rated. They may have since added some C sizes, but definitely wasn't available in 265/70/17 four years ago.
    XL are P rated tires with stronger sidewalls that can take higher pressures.

    https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretec....jsp?techid=55

    My truck came with 20" wheels with XL rated tires but when I downsized to 17s they're STD.

    I'm not sure but I think lower profile tires are sometimes built to take higher pressures so you don't pinch on the rim.

    Edit: looks like that last statement isn't accurate... that cooper tires link has XL rated tires on high and low ratio sidewalls.

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  15. #315
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    Aug 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by LightRanger View Post
    Hah. I hear you.

    Would go taller and narrower for snow traction, but harder to find models in that 255 size and Costco only does OEM sizes.

    Pushing 90k now. Probably going to do the Bilstein 5100 swap in the next 30k. Likely set the front a bit higher than stock, but not a ton. Either .75 or 1.5.

    But, honestly, I don't think I'd significantly lift a DD ever again. Last vehicle I owned in the category was a lifted Jeep and always had issues with the suspension. Mileage goes to shit. Don't use the full capabilities enough (compared to when I was in HS and college). Etc. I could see doing it to a third or fourth vehicle, but we're only a two-vehicle family right now.
    Guessing you have a 5th gen? I know 4th gens came stock with 265/65/R17.

    I'm in the midst of gathering supplies to do the FJ spring + 5100s on mine. Springs were supposed to get here today (but alas, fuck you UPS). Agree re lifts and DD driveability, I'm only going 2-3" with 265/70/R17.

  16. #316
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    Jun 2006
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    Yeah. 2013.

    The 5100-FJ Spring lift is small enough to not totally fuck up your driveline. So that's helpful.

    Old Jeep was 4.5". Eventually lost the rear drive shaft. That was special. Drove to the shop in 4WD with the rear shaft removed. Brother bought off me and did the slip yoke eliminator and CV driveshaft mod that I should've done in the first place.

    That wasn't the only issue though. Just the one that comes to mind now.

    Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by Ernest_Hemingway View Post
    I realize there is not much hope for a bullfighting forum. I understand that most of you would prefer to discuss the ingredients of jacket fabrics than the ingredients of a brave man. I know nothing of the former. But the latter is made of courage, and skill, and grace in the presence of the possibility of death. If someone could make a jacket of those three things it would no doubt be the most popular and prized item in all of your closets.

  17. #317
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    Sep 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by east or bust View Post
    Guessing you have a 5th gen? I know 4th gens came stock with 265/65/R17.

    I'm in the midst of gathering supplies to do the FJ spring + 5100s on mine. Springs were supposed to get here today (but alas, fuck you UPS). Agree re lifts and DD driveability, I'm only going 2-3" with 265/70/R17.
    I did the FJ stock springs + 5100s on my 4th Gen. Fit 255/75/17 tires on stock wheels, which is about as tall as you can use and still fit the spare in the stock location. It rode and handled much better than stock. Stock front springs felt very soft, FJ springs are stiffer.

    FWIW, if you want the rear level, you will need to add a spacer on one side - can't remember which side. IIRC I had to buy a set of two, in 1" thickness. I may have the other one somewhere still.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  18. #318
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    Oct 2003
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    OK super tire nerds... what cold tire pressure for snow tires vs whats on the door jam? What reference temp for measuring cold inflation pressure? Conversion factor for narrowing/sizing changes?
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  19. #319
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    Feb 2015
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    MA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Summit View Post
    OK super tire nerds... what cold tire pressure for snow tires vs whats on the door jam? What reference temp for measuring cold inflation pressure? Conversion factor for narrowing/sizing changes?
    Not a real expert by any means, but the instructors at a winter driving program I completed a few years ago recommended door jam spec once tires were up to temperature. They recommended that to me and I go taller and narrower on my winter set up

  20. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by Summit View Post
    OK super tire nerds... what cold tire pressure for snow tires vs whats on the door jam? What reference temp for measuring cold inflation pressure? Conversion factor for narrowing/sizing changes?
    Actually run them higher. 30 on summers and 35 on winters to get soft tread grabbing


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  21. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by Summit View Post
    OK super tire nerds... what cold tire pressure for snow tires vs whats on the door jam? What reference temp for measuring cold inflation pressure? Conversion factor for narrowing/sizing changes?
    I set my pressure to recommend at about the temperature a fairly cold day early in the morning. If it's a warm day they're a little overinflated and if it's really cold they're a little underinflated (maybe 2 psi low at the most)... but I figure a little soft should increase traction if anything.

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  22. #322
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    Feb 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by steved View Post
    General's Arctic 12 will be going on the 4R. Their Altimax Arctics without studs have been great on the passenger vehicle, whatever it has been, for the last 4 winters.....pavement/pseudo-pavement in Maine = all types of junk.
    Running Arctic 12's on our XC60 and loving them. Had the Altimax Arctic previously on our Mazda 3 and that was also a good experience. With the XC60 being so much heavier and AWD it's a beast compared to the 3 in the snow. Also works well on dry/wet pavement which is 95% of winter in Vancouver.

  23. #323
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    Discount Tire Flash Sale $80 off a set of select tires

    https://www.discounttiredirect.com/promotions/flash-sale
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  24. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    C or E rated in that photo?
    So anotherVTskibum, like where have I not been turning off #2(from Bangor) to get to those lines in your pic?

  25. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by gramboh View Post
    Running Arctic 12's on our XC60 and loving them. Had the Altimax Arctic previously on our Mazda 3 and that was also a good experience. With the XC60 being so much heavier and AWD it's a beast compared to the 3 in the snow. Also works well on dry/wet pavement which is 95% of winter in Vancouver.
    I just got Altimax Arctic 12s and my initial impression is that traction is better than the old Altimax Arctic. But, these are on a different (heavier) car so it's hard to directly compare.

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