Same here. Did it once, not worth the time, $, and effort. However, Rocky’s come partially ride-wrapped, so that’s ok.
Same here. Did it once, not worth the time, $, and effort. However, Rocky’s come partially ride-wrapped, so that’s ok.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
I'd still do it for a carbon frame on high wear/high impact areas but I just use stuff I've sourced myself and it's easy. Never considered doing wheels hahaha.
Currently running a raw aluminum frame so zero fucks given. The more scratched and dinged up it gets, the better it looks. Kinda nice not worrying about it.
There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air
If I were buying a few year old bike, I'd be more interested in one with a clean looking frame. I'm sure that keeping your frame protected does help with resell, if not just by increasing the number of people who may consider it.
Wheels on the other hand... most don't look bad enough to turn me off to the bike.
I've wrapped 3 bikes with the 3M from an autoparts store and for the 25$ I find it to be a worthwhile endeavor for protection from the big hits , but i won't pay 100$+ for a custom kit and i wouldn't pay to wrap wheels
In a season that is only 7 months up narth shop bro would get a big discount, buy the 10,000+ bikes sometimes 2 in a season, swap out the stock wheels for his carbon setup, do some rides, swap the stock wheels back in and sell for what it cost him and so he found ride wrap to worthwhile
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Every old carbon rim I have only looks like shit because the stickers are all torn up. The bigger the stickers are, the worse the rim looks. Take the stickers off and the thing looks mostly fine. So I would assume wrapping the rim will mostly just make them look terrible.
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I’ve always wished my wheels could have more rotating weight!
Do you think they work with my rim brakes?
I spent several days cutting helicopter tape and applying it to as much of my wife’s DH bike as possible when I bought the frame and built it up from scratch. First day out she wrecked and scratched a Fox 40 sanction and scratched this one spot on the chainstay that was too weird shaped to tape. The untaped spot was like a tractor beam for impact. Or Murphy’s Law. Or a lesson in futility.
In hindsight, the labor involve taping that thing was pretty damn costly when compared to what I could have made going into work for 1-2 extra shifts at work.
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However many are in a shit ton.
So I'm not looking to cover every nook and cranny just the big spots which are most likely to take the hit in a crash cuz I've scuffed a toptube just throwing a leg over the bike with a dirty 5/10, so the inside of frame is least likely to get tagged and doesnt get 3M, usually it takes 2 or 3 hrs to do top & sides of top tube, bottom & sides of down tube, sides of chain & seatstays & call er good
with the 3M stuff I sprayed the weird spots with a 25% alcohol + water solution and it stretched/ conformed pretty good even on my curvy Yeti 5.5, so i got really good coin for it used, but that might have been due to covid shortage so it didnt matter how much money the MD who bought it made she couldn't buy a new yeti ... oh the humanity
The SC frame has taken a few hits and so where that happened the 3M got scuffed/ abraded in that spot but the paint is not affected so I haven't seen the black carbon under the paint, from 10 ft you can't see the hit and you can't see it unless you look for it so 3 yrs later the frame looks pretty good
Dirt flakes off a 3M'd frame IME so i will continue to 3M a new bike using the cheap option, but YMMV
Last edited by XXX-er; 10-26-2024 at 09:40 PM.
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Most frame wraps (including RideWrap) are so thin I don't see the point. It might help with a minor non-rock (tree branch?) scuff but any actual rock impact will go right through.
I used the ESI silicone tape on my rear triangle because I live in the land of sharp pointy rocks that love to chew on said rear triangles. Yeah, it looks like shit but it's definitely worth it at resale.
The only exception I've found is Effetto Mariposa Shelter. It's super thick at 1.2mm and is amazing for downtubes.
Picked up my new (to me) 2020 Chevy 2500HD DuraMax a few weeks ago.
Heading to Durango with the camper last Thursday, going up an incline w/ cruise set to 65mph. Suddenly, BANG!!!, the rear axle locks up for an instant, damn near putting wife and I's face in the windshield.
WTF!!!
Couple miles later, same thing, this time kicking me 2' over the center line. Wife is going hysterical.
Turn around and baby it back home and take it to a shop where they find nothing and have no ideas where to start. We do a transmission service but it's gotta be more.
Saturday morning, literally two days after it happens, I get an email from carfax saying there's a recall on my transmission because there's a rare chance it could cause the rear axle to lock up momentarily.
Apparently I'm rare.
The best part: GM doesn't currently have a fix for it. They'll let me know.
Seriously
So my $50K death wagon , that I haven't even registered yet, can wait until GM gets around to figuring out what's wrong. I'm sure they're working hard on it.![]()
Yeah that sucks balls.
If it's any consolation, Ford's in the same boat with a rear end recall for the transit, no parts. The new Transit trail has a recall due to tire rub. Ridiculously easy fix if you've got a grinder and sledge hammer to fold the pinch weld in the wheel well over. Before the Trail came out it SOP for transit owners looking to fit bigger tires. Still, Ford has no fix except to put smaller tires on it, stupid. The Trail has a sticker price about $10k higher than the regular AWD and the dealers can't release paid for Vans so they're sitting on the lots waiting for smaller tires.
Fortunately I'm not on either of those recalls.
Good luck with the Truck, hopefully they get ya fixed up soon.
There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air
My son had a 2018 ecoboost block repalced losing oil due to porosity of the engine casting
he doesnt trust that truck but he can't afford to change trucks
Toyota is replacing 100, 000 engines cuz they found iron filings from manufacturing in the oil,
I asked my dealer bout that and he sez they sold 200 Tundras and no engine probs
I think shit fucks up that you can't forsee and its how the manufacter deals with it
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Why is there a truck rant in bike rants ?
I thot same but you can see the big scratch on the toptube right by the Bullit decal I forget what that was from but above the charger port I definatley dropped the bike on a rock section of the trail that had been carved out of the hillside and all that has happened is the 3M got abraded off and the paint stayed intact, 3 yrs later no black carbon showing anywhere. I hit it with the hose but I haven't really washed it properly in 2 months but you can see how shiny the finish is
BTW women always comment they love the lavender color eh
![]()
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
I never noticed that, I assumed it biking only rants but I could even rant about my ex-wife
Ha, we just went thru an anus clencher of an election up here in BC, basicly the covid induced rural conservative backlash that was so close we didnt know who had won for 9 days, fortunatley the non-cons just squeaked in a majority
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Yeah, I have a series of 4-5 similar spots on my chainstay from hitting a rock (and similar on the PPF on my car's bumper where the hatch opens and its been hit).
The PPF does work. For minor abrasion it just protects them and maybe even does a little "self healing". Great for cable rub, wear spots from pedaling, etc. Does an extra job of keeping your bike "shiny" because the clear film deepens the shine like a layer of wax and prevents the paint from getting dull from wiping down with dirty cloths, etc.
For bigger scrapes, it is a sacrificial layer. The film will get destroyed, but the paint underneath usually does OK. So a single hit works fine...repeated hits or a long scrape will go through the paint. It's never going to save you from damage that would dent a metal frame or crack a carbon frame. It is Paint Protection Film.
Of course the problem is that now I have an ugly spot. RideWrap will give you a replacement piece...but it is annoying to remove and apply detail pieces. So I doubt I'm going to do it. If it was just a rectangle of film on the downtube like I have on my other bike, sure, then I might pull and replace it.
IMHO, you shouldn't sell a wrapped frame. Nobody is going to pay extra because it is wrapped. Instead you rip all the wrap off and sell a frame that looks nice and shiny like it hasn't been ridden much.
I've said it before but I wish they sold a "partial tailored" RideWrap kit--I never want to install tiny pieces of PPF on a suspension link again, but I'd buy and install pieces that are precut for the chainstay, seatstay, and exposed edges of the main triangle. It is easy to cut downtube protectors from my big roll of 3m film, but it gets finicky trying to get good coverage on smaller/more complex tubes.
Its a little easier to cut that kind of protection for a hardtail/road bike, but FS rear triangles often have goofier shapes, pivot bolt holes, cable guides, etc. and I'd rather throw a few bucks at someone who has done it a bunch of times and used their experience to make a smart shape that I can just apply and be done.
yeah I don't worry about some missing 3M becuz its mostly not noticable and i igure trying to fix the boo-boo is gona look worse
I've wondered about removing 3M or ride wrap, have you done it and does it at all wreck the paint ???
I was using a Yakima bar with silicone pads on the roof of my Tacoma for carrying seakayak so I had put some 3M on the roof to protect the paint which it did, instead of ripping it off I just cleaned that area with alcohol/ rag to clean a few marks on the film
in any case i think the ghetto ride wrap was worth the 25$ and a couple hrs work
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
It can pull paint if the paint is damaged (or maybe if you pull it in stupid ways), but it should be fine if you kind of slowly peel it away by stretching it outwards rather than peeling it straight away at a 90-degree angle from the paint.
Think like how a 3m command hook releases itself by stretching the material out to break the bond without ripping the paint off your wall.
Use a hair dryer or hot water to help soften and go slowly. Plenty of videos from the car guys on how to remove it. And your bike has probably had a LOT less UV exposure than a car that's spent years outside, so the film shouldn't be brittle and keep breaking on you.
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