So, finally got a bike for wifey with AXS/transition drivetrain.
So, the freakin derailluer battery charger uses Micro-USB?
WTH?
Is this 2010?
So strange.
So, finally got a bike for wifey with AXS/transition drivetrain.
So, the freakin derailluer battery charger uses Micro-USB?
WTH?
Is this 2010?
So strange.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
I didn’t see Sheldon spending much time on a pump track when he was alive…
On mobile, I went to an activity that had the AI bullshit. Clicked on it. At the bottom was an option to withdraw (or similar) from the beta. Good riddance.
Anyone else have to change their password out of the blue on Strava?
It seemed fishy.
(No, I didn’t click on any email links).
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
Buy an amazon one with a USB-C.
I'm not worried about maintaining speed while coasting, I'm not going fast in the first place. I'm concerned about any amount of added resistance when slogging up 2000' of dirt road. Kinda like a brake pad rubbing on a rotor, no reason not to fix that shit and it just makes your life a tiny bit harder...
"Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise
Unless "wet" is a significant issue : )
My issue with these is missing condition categories that would be very useful. They seem to have winter well covered. But conditions for "overgrown" and "downed trees" and maybe "damaged tread" would be useful across much of the west. Colors for Dry and Very dry seem to connotate these as negative conditions when Dry and Very Dry are just normal for us. Very Dry is only really an issue on steep trails that get very slippery when dry/dusty.
And force people to write at least a few words description when they select any status other than Clear/Open. It's annoying to look at some seldom ridden trail and all you see is an amber / significant issue status but no description of what the issue is and whether it is temporary like wet trails that will eventually dry up, or if it is something that will make the trail hard to use like downed trees or massive erosion.
Trying to replace the bearings in my rear DT350 and the ring nut won't budge, even with 2 guys twisting the rim with the ring nut tool in a vise. Whoever designed this is an idiot (pedaling forces tighten it).
Heat up the hub shell a bit. My exp ring (which has the bearing pressed into it) came off pretty easy after I lightly warmed it up with a little butane torch.
Also on a 350 does the ring need to come out to remove the bearing? e- according to the service manual after 2015 they made the DS bearing smaller to allow it to fit through the ring.
Last edited by jamal; 10-24-2024 at 09:54 AM.
Won't that mostly only heat up the ring and make it tighter in the shell?
^ I hear your theory, and it makes sense. Keeping with that theory we shouldn’t heat the bolt that’s stuck, but only heat the nut?
The bolt is already constrained so it will expand in the direction of least constraint. The bolt will elongate and not expand in girth.
I know is a DT Swiss service tech told me to avoid heating the hub and possibly damaging it.
“It doesn’t take much heat to get the ring moving, so just heat the tool”
Oh, FFS.
At this point, it reminds me of vinyl furniture covers.
But I guess with many bikes being North of 10K, resale value dreams still exist?
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/ridewr...tion-kits.html
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
Yup, I wrapped 1 bike, then when I was only able to sell the frame for 1/3 what I paid for, I decided that wrapping is for suckers and their garage beauty queen bikes. You can tell my bikes get ridden on trails (either that or their rider lays them over too often...).
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