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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
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    When he Alps give you lemons...

    ...make lemoncello.

    Not much as far as TGR radical TRs go, but it is summer and hopefully this will add some small amount of stoke.

    I had been wanting to do the Haute Route for years, and this looked like the year it was going to happen. Had a few people lined up, but between babies, weddings and college tuition (not necessarily in that order,) I said fuck it i am going anyway.

    So instead of lining up a private guide for our group, I ended up a group of one, so just booked a scheduled trip with Francis Kelsey (Gordy's euro guide connection.) www.nosiesta.com

    Turns out the two others on the trip flaked five days before the trip and stiffed Francis they even wanted their deposit back So, the first lemons turned into a week of private guiding, so not a bad start. I arrived to find the Sahara feun winds completely fucking up the snowpack and weather conditions. The first day was supposed to be the shake down day on Vallee Blanche, but the Midi was closed due to winds (the next lemon) so over to Argentiere to ski some glaciers and see how conditions were up high...they sucked. Fog, clouds, brown snow/crust and just generally crappy conditions. Visibilty was so bad that you had to look for brown snow (Sahara sand), and avoid white (hard crust where the sand just blew off) to make survival turns.

    Francis hooked up with his network, and all his guide friends were stuck in various huts lamenting the weather and waiting it out (you can only play so many hands of cards in an alpine mountain hut.) Conditions were no better in the morning, so we decided to make lemoncello of our lemons and head to Finale, Italia for some Riviera limestone.

    Unfortunately half way between Genoa and Finale Francis's van broke down, so after well over an hour of sitting on an Italian freeway we got towed back to Genoa, dropped the van at a repair shop, grabbed a cab to the airport and rented a car to finally make it to Finale, a great little old Italian town complete with castles walled cities are great bars and food.




    We spent a couple days sport climbing the area and did a spectacular limestone traverse just meters above the Mediterranean Sea. A couple moves were on wet rock from sea spray, and a fall often would have meant a dunking in the sea.






    The route traverses between the sea and the highway for about ten pitches.



    The weather was looking more favorable, and the van was repaired, so back to Genoa and then on to Cervinia, Italy, the Italian side of the Matterhorn.


    We headed up to the Theodul Hut, but food poisoning from the night before put me out of sorts, and I was sick as a dog that night. Fortunately I was reasonably better the next day, so we had an easy day skiing some of the piste and off-piste runs in and around Zermatt and Cerinia, and finished the day in Zermatt and headed to a hotel on the far side of town.

    Swiss ski lifts are different


    Just before reaching the hotel, did I say it was on the far side of town? I realized I left my ski poles at the end of the piste. I jump on a bus (all electric) and head back up the valley, but since the signs were in German I got on the wrong bus, so end up on the wrong side of the valley. The bus driver actually seemed pissed that I got on his bus by mistake, but he could have just been taking normal in German which sounds angry. I found the bridge across the river, found my poles, then hoofed it back to the hotel.

    At least it snowed that night, and dawned with blue bird skies,




    so we headed up the gondola, got the first cabin to the Klein Matterhorn (one advantage of having a guide, since unguided groups or individuals were not allowed.)


    We were able to skin to the top of the Briethorn and ski off and on piste all the way back to Cervinia, and the nearest bar.







    That afternoon we headed back to Chamonix were Francis was meeting a bunch of Brits for a week long tour, but Francis hooked me up with a friend who had a father/son client going to Vallee Blanche, so I got to tag along and finally tick that one off. (Some may remember I jacked my knee at the last Euro Gordy camp and missed all the good shit.)

    Alberto the Italian guide and one of his clients that I got to tag along with.



    The ice cave on the Mer de Glace is always cool.


    I had planned to climb and ski Mont Blanc, but since I did very little actual skiing, skinning and acclimatizing, I gave up that idea and headed to Annecy, France for a couple days since the weather was turning bad again.


    Fine, civilized French dinning


    I finished up the trip with a day in Geneva, and some pretty cool third century Roman mosaics under the cathedral.


    So, the trip didn't go as planned, not even close, but by being flexible we managed to have a pretty damn good time. Since the trip started in Chamonix, included skiing in the Alps and finished (sort of) in Zermatt, we figured it did count as a Haute Route, just a new variation which we called the Finale variation (not as well know as the Verbier variation.) Francis posted a few sport climb pics from Italy to his bros stuck in various huts and got some interesting responses.

    If anybody is planning a trip climbing, skiing, hiking, et al, amd is looking for a great guide, Francis is the man.

    Cheers

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    inpdx
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    20,245
    Quote Originally Posted by hutash View Post

    Fine, civilized French dinning

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Couloirfornia
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    8,871
    Nice dude.

    Not tagging the traverse gives you another excuse to go back.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ernest_Hemingway View Post
    I realize there is not much hope for a bullfighting forum. I understand that most of you would prefer to discuss the ingredients of jacket fabrics than the ingredients of a brave man. I know nothing of the former. But the latter is made of courage, and skill, and grace in the presence of the possibility of death. If someone could make a jacket of those three things it would no doubt be the most popular and prized item in all of your closets.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Seattle
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    33,558
    I kept meaning to ask how it went. Sorry to hear less well than planned.

    Come up and visit this winter.
    Quote Originally Posted by Downbound Train View Post
    And there will come a day when our ancestors look back...........

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
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    I hope to.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    3,711
    Bummer you couldn't do the Haute Route (also on my bucket list), but, man, it still looks like a killer time. Love the pics.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Verdi NV
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    10,457
    The pics are cool, but

    Would you like to buy a T for your Thread title?
    Own your fail. ~Jer~

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bottom feeding
    Posts
    10,848
    So much to do in and around the Alps. Well done.
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTT View Post
    The pics are cool, but

    Would you like to buy a T for your Thread title?
    Shitty keyboard...I tried to fix it, but alas, can't do it.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    9,300ft
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    21,976
    I like it!
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    2

    Haute Route

    The Haute Route is definitely on my list. Made it to Zermatt last year. Can't wait to return and ski the rest of it!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    tetons
    Posts
    8,515
    looked like a fun trip despite the change of plans
    thnx for sharing

    did the haute route a couple yrs ago from Zermatt then ended in chamonix- supposedly better skiing that direction fwiw for the next trip
    skid luxury

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Westchester, New York
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    4,407
    As good as it gets!
    Looking at those photos made me all jittery.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    12
    Looks rad!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Land of the Long Flat Vowel
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    1,105
    Well done!

    Great pics, good times. Finale Ligure is a favourite place, and having spritz and aperitivi after a swim/surf/bike/climb/hike is so good.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    22
    Amazing pics!!

    The Matterhorn!

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    3
    How much do you want for the rest of that bread?

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
    Posts
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    Sorry, the bread and bottle did not survive lunch.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

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