Soldering iron for seized bolt?

[Jonathan S.]

Seems like my only option?
Or maybe also try WD40 even though access to the threads is doubtful?
(Head is 2.5mm hex so hard to get much torque before the bolt head starts to strip.)
Thanks in advance for any tips and tricks!



(And in case you're wondering, this is the "1.0" version of the Dynafit Low Tech Race. The lateral release has seized up, most likely because some of the little internal nobbins have broken off and are thereby jamming the intended rotational movement between the upper and lower portions of the binding. Replacement requires first knocking out the retaining pin, second removing the U spring, third removing a little metal plate of unknown function, and fourth removing the bolt that holds the upper and lower parts together and also around which the upper part is supposed to rotate.)

[TAFKALVS]

Also:

Try Kroil.

Try putting it the freezer for a few hours.

[4020driver]

Try a torx bit that is what they were originally designed for. I that doesn't work try a left handed drill bit in a reversible drill.

[fatnslow]

Liberal amount of penetrating oil or PB blaster and wait 15 minutes followed with a couple hard hits with a hammer to a hand held driver. If that fails try some heat. They actually sell this at Harbor freight that works pretty well http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html. Just use the right size hex.

[adrenalated]

In order:

-PB blaster or other penetrating lubricant (WD40 might work but penetrating oil is much better)
-soldering iron
-impact wrench (manual or power)
-EZ-out

[angrysasquatch]

On my low techs the screw to separate the halves was on the bottom, not the top. And they've been consigned to paperweights for becoming too easy to turn. I'd check the bottom before you get too crazy.

[LC]

Hacksaw a notch (very carefully) then use a big flathead (very carefully). Looks like plenty of material to work with in the bolt head.

[FLS]

Also:

Try Kroil.

Try putting it the freezer for a few hours.

I recently did the freezer thing and got lucky.

[uglymoney]

Hacksaw a notch (very carefully) then use a big flathead (very carefully). Looks like plenty of material to work with in the bolt head.

This. Use the flathead and the manual impact. Lots of PB Blaster and let it soak for 24 hours hitting it with a squirt every time you go past. Two different kinds of metal so little heat or the freezer will cause them to expand or contract at different rates. I have been amazed at what the manual impact drivers can remove just by themselves. Sometimes seemingly impossible stuff comes loose like butter even when you think the bolt heads are completely stripped.

The harbor freight stuff is (sometimes) fine but this is what I have and it is an awesome tool for just a few more bucks.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

[XXX-er]

for heat put a drill bit in the drill BACKWARDS

running the shank against the screw at high speeed will generate heat

[fatnslow]

This. Use the flathead and the manual impact. Lots of PB Blaster and let it soak for 24 hours hitting it with a squirt every time you go past. Two different kinds of metal so little heat or the freezer will cause them to expand or contract at different rates. I have been amazed at what the manual impact drivers can remove just by themselves. Sometimes seemingly impossible stuff comes loose like butter even when you think the bolt heads are completely stripped.

The harbor freight stuff is (sometimes) fine but this is what I have and it is an awesome tool for just a few more bucks.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Craftsman quality is about the same as Harbor Freight these days. Look in any "pro's" tool box and you won't find a single current craftsman brand anything.

[uglymoney]

Fair enough. I was just speaking for a tool I have experience with. I have lots of stuff from Harbor Freight and some of it was junk and some if it is pretty good. The craftsman impact driver is a nice unit that will last for years. Not sure on the HF unit.

[sethschmautz]

Hacksaw a notch (very carefully) then use a big flathead (very carefully). Looks like plenty of material to work with in the bolt head.

I have gotten MANY stubborn screws and bolts out with this method. I typically use a dremel, but in this case the hacksaw is your friend.

Seth

[Jonathan S.]

Wow, thanks for all the feedback, great stuff!

So the PB Blaster is soaking in right now.
And the manual impact driver sure feels hefty.
(Turns out that auto parts stores are good for stocking anything related to seized-up fasteners.)

Problem of course is that the adapter that comes with the 3/8" square driver is for those mongo 3/8" hex impact bits.

This seems to be the only such 2.5mm bit available anywhere:
http://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/...ets-p49461.htm

Or perhaps this would be even more stable since I wouldn't need to use the adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/Wright-Tool-3.../dp/B00A1BRYCU

Or more versatility with future projects, these:
https://www.amazon.com/1869512-Impac...dp/B00LMDV6CA/
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee...4405/203114918
... would allow me to use all sorts of regular hex bits with an impact driver.
But is using regular hex bits a bad idea?
(Not strong enough?)

Now I just have to wash that PB Blaster smell off my hands -- something that smells this bad must be highly effective!

[adrenalated]

Just use a 3/8" to 1/4" socket adapter.

[Todd Zander]

hex head bolts are fine, but the one suggestion of using a torx bit was spot-on.

Have you tried just taking a hammer to the 2.5MM bit while the ski sits on a solid surface? Floor or sturdy bench.

And forget PB blaster (besides being readily available), KROIL is where it's at. Has a hint of sweetness with tones of licorice when torched.

[fatnslow]

hex head bolts are fine, but the one suggestion of using a torx bit was spot-on.

Have you tried just taking a hammer to the 2.5MM bit while the ski sits on a solid surface? Floor or sturdy bench.

And forget PB blaster (besides being readily available), KROIL is where it's at. Has a hint of sweetness with tones of licorice when torched.

Instructions on how to use a torx bit for a stuck/stripped hex.

https://mercedessource.com/problems/...hex-head-bolts

[Spyderjon]

Do NOT use a hex bit on them as that's the fast way to screw up the head. All Dynafit mounting screws have a no.20 Torx head so use a no.20 Torx bit (usually called a T20 or a TT20). The underside of the countersink on most Dynafit screws are also grooved to bite in to the binding which, when trying to remove them, gives the impression of a stuck screw. A quick flick of the trigger using an impact driver on reverse will free them or simply clamp an adjustable spanner/molegrip horizontally to the handle of your screw driver (with the torx bit in or better still buy a proper T20 driver for a few $) to give additional rotary leverage when turned with one hand whilst the other hand pushes down on the screwdriver.

Simples!

[abraham]

Yeah, hex driver in a torx screw for anything other than finger tightness is dumb. Use a torx bit. 2.5 hex is typically pretty easy to strip out too, T25 and 3mm hex are way better. You might be able to replace the screws you have with better ones after pulling it apart

[HHTELE]

This. Use the flathead and the manual impact. Lots of PB Blaster and let it soak for 24 hours hitting it with a squirt every time you go past. Two different kinds of metal so little heat or the freezer will cause them to expand or contract at different rates. I have been amazed at what the manual impact drivers can remove just by themselves. Sometimes seemingly impossible stuff comes loose like butter even when you think the bolt heads are completely stripped.

The harbor freight stuff is (sometimes) fine but this is what I have and it is an awesome tool for just a few more bucks.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Lots of different methods. I have had great luck with the manual impact driver. It seems like it would really mess the threads up, but I have never had problems re-using the hole.
Once the hole is striped, it all gets trickier.
Easy outs are tricky, cause there isn't much meat in a little ski screw.

If nothing else works-
remove all other screws
Use a succession of larger drill bits to essentially remove screw head. CAREFUL not to generate enough heat to melt plastic baseplate enlarging hole,
Remove binding, leaving a screw shaft sticking out.
Vice grips.

[Jonathan S.]

Just use a 3/8" to 1/4" socket adapter.

You mean just a regular one, not specific to impact drivers?
Unfortunately I lost mine this month in the process of disassembling, transporting, reassembling, repairing, and upgrading this monstrosity.
(But that of course just means the opportunity to buy more hardware, which is of course half the fun of all these projects!)

[Jonathan S.]

Simples!

For removing a stuck T20 mounting screw, yes.
Unfortunately though this is a stuck 2.5 hex assembly bolt.

[adrenalated]

You mean just a regular one, not specific to impact drivers?
Unfortunately I lost mine this month in the process of disassembling, transporting, reassembling, repairing, and upgrading this monstrosity.
(But that of course just means the opportunity to buy more hardware, which is of course half the fun of all these projects!)

Yeah you're attaching this to a hand held impact, not a burly 1/2" air impact. I use regular sockets on 12V and 18V impacts all the time.

[Spyderjon]

For removing a stuck T20 mounting screw, yes.
Unfortunately though this is a stuck 2.5 hex assembly bolt.

My bad. Next time I'll try actually reading your original post

[FLS]

Is it out yet?