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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Squaw valley
    Posts
    4,637

    Climbing in Italy and Slovenia where

    I'm taking my family to Italy in July, and we would like to climb for a week or so.

    Requirements:

    4-5,5+ ie 5.6-5.9

    Hopefully in the shade because July is hot.

    Bolted

    Base of the crag kids friendly, ie no steep dropoffs, ideally not rocky..

    Since the kids will be playing at the base, no multi pitch climbs, so we can lower quickly in case of a problem.

    We will be driving from France thru genoa, then Venice, on the way to Slovenia.

    But we can easily divert North to arco, dolomites.

    Thank you.

    Btw we will spend some time in kranskja gora, Slovenia to climb, so any beta will be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
    Posts
    22,429
    Finale, Italy. Great sport climbing of all grades, but will be hot in July.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Vanity Fair
    Posts
    2,720
    Arco?
    Ich bitte dich nur, weck mich nicht.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Squaw valley
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    Arco is on my list also.

    I heard though that the easier climbs are really polished.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Aspen
    Posts
    3,043
    We're in a similar boat; looking into easier sport climbing in Slovenia. Headed there for two weeks in June/July. For you coming from Italy, this looks like a good area: 33 routes, a lot on the easier end. Looks like a great town/area as well - http://www.slovenia-trips.com/eng/ro.../Kal-koritnica

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Squaw valley
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    4,637
    great, thanks, looks like a safe spot for kids as well.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    219
    Quote Originally Posted by rod9301 View Post
    Arco is on my list also.

    I heard though that the easier climbs are really polished.
    that will be case anywhere in europe. Cinque torre between cortina and alta badia

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Squaw valley
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    4,637
    Thanks, that looks good

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    5,642
    Osp in slovenia.
    http://www.sloclimbing.com/climbing-topo-osp-misja-pec/
    http://www.amazon.com/Osp-Misja-Crni...A1Y0H878LXAUNU

    If you have crash pads with you (probably not?), do a stopover on the gottardo pass. Cool temperatures and a lot of easy boulder problems.
    Other than osp I don't really know the stuff in the south because there is soo much on the northern side where I live, so I don't go there.
    Also really nice: Maltatal in Carinthia both Bouldering and climbing.
    https://www.amazon.de/Kletter--Bould...etter+topo+osp

    don't go to arco and Finale in summer! They are mainly a spring/ winter destination. Osp will also be warm but apparently doable according to freinds who have been there in June.
    There is one beginner area near osp (in the Topo) the rest wil probably be too hard for you since the interesting sectors in sport climbing in europe usually start around 5.9-5.10ish
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Squaw valley
    Posts
    4,637
    Thank you. How about the area near triglav?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    5,642
    I've only been to the slovenian alps to ski in Bovec. They have massive lime stone cliffs everywhere, but I don't know anything about the climbing areas.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    219
    Croatia isn't that far away and the walls at paklenica has great climbing. Plus crystal clear Adriatic sea

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Aspen
    Posts
    3,043
    OP - hope you guys had a good trip and got some climbing in. We returned last week from our three week trip, including 12 days in Slovenia. We spent time in Lju, Bovec, five days trekking hut-to-hut through Triglav NP, then Bled, Vipav, a few days on Rab in Northern Croatia and final splurge in Venice. We brought a 60M rope, draws/shoes/harnesses and enjoyed four afternoons sport climbing a few areas in Slovenia:

    We unknowingly ended renting an AirBNB across the valley from the crag I posted a link to above. A few months ago I found that site and thought that area looked cool, but didn't do much more. When we got to Bovec (amazing area), that climbing area was marked on a road map (props to Slovenian road maps for list sport climbing!) Some locals recommended it and tt was great climbing with lots of routes and variety. 5min drive from Bovec with a 10min approach and shade cover for the belays. We went two afternoons and saw one other party.

    After the trek we climbed outside Bled near Iglica Falls ( https://goo.gl/maps/VPXBhe5CFfK2 ). Nice area, a 2min walk from the car, with some tall routes.

    Our last afternoon was en-route to Italy from Croatia at Slovenia's second-largest sport area, Crni Kal: http://www.slovenia-trips.com/eng/ro.../1038/Crni-kal. This was pretty ridiculous in scale and variety and was pretty popular. A Slovenian climber friend recommended this to us and it didn't disappoint. It felt much like Rifle with close car access and lots of people enjoying their time there.

    All in all a wonderful country. Great people, good food, good prices, stunning mountains similar to the North Cascades and the strongest mountain culture we've experienced worldwide. These people LOVE the mountains and respect climbing/alpinism a lot; alpine clubs are a big part of the social community and develop the insanely talented Slovenian climbers and hard men. The mountain hut system throughout the country was top notch, with each hut being maintained by specific mountain clubs. I'd highly recommend going as a contrast to the "scene" in the Alps, the saturation of Italy, or the post-American-hot spot vibe surrounding Croatia (snark aside: we loved Croatia too).

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