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Thread: KS Lev Cartridge question
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04-20-2016, 10:41 AM #1
KS Lev Cartridge question
I need a new cartridge. I can order the bronze or the black stanchion. I currently have the bronze. Any benefit to the black cartridge? Any incompatibility if I go with the black instead of the bronze?
"The world is a very puzzling place. If you're not willing to be puzzled you just become a replica of someone else's mind." Chomsky
"This system make of us slaves. Without dignity. Without depth. No? With a devil in our pocket. This incredible money in our pocket. This money. This shit. This nothing. This paper who have nothing inside." Jodorowsky
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04-20-2016, 11:38 AM #2
PM this guy. He'll know.
http://forums.mtbr.com/components/ks...ld-899659.html
Or better yet, use his tutorial and rebuild your existing cartridge.However many are in a shit ton.
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04-21-2016, 12:26 PM #3
Thanks for that. I saw his thread last year and was like, gah, too much work. But on the second read it's really not that bad. Looks like I'll be ordering some o-rings.
"The world is a very puzzling place. If you're not willing to be puzzled you just become a replica of someone else's mind." Chomsky
"This system make of us slaves. Without dignity. Without depth. No? With a devil in our pocket. This incredible money in our pocket. This money. This shit. This nothing. This paper who have nothing inside." Jodorowsky
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04-21-2016, 05:37 PM #4
Definitely not that hard. Just go slow and follow the pictures.
You can more than likely do it without replacing any rings and have it work perfectly.However many are in a shit ton.
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04-21-2016, 10:31 PM #5
I've done a rebuild following that guy's directions as well. They're good.
Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp
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04-22-2016, 02:04 PM #6
Excellent. Good to know. In case anyone actually needs a new cartridge KS emailed me back and said there is no functional difference between bronze and black. Think I'll try and do the rebuild without ordering rings first for shits and giggles.
"The world is a very puzzling place. If you're not willing to be puzzled you just become a replica of someone else's mind." Chomsky
"This system make of us slaves. Without dignity. Without depth. No? With a devil in our pocket. This incredible money in our pocket. This money. This shit. This nothing. This paper who have nothing inside." Jodorowsky
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04-22-2016, 02:49 PM #7
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04-22-2016, 03:07 PM #8Registered User
- Join Date
- Sep 2011
- Location
- Vermont
- Posts
- 1,483
I had some issues with mine when I first got it and they were finally resolved when I swapped for a traditional shift cable. Did yours come with the red kite string type cable? In order to not stick down the cable had to be tightened quite a bit. Ended up snapping a couple of times. I swapped to the steel cable after a month ad haven't had an issue since.
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04-22-2016, 03:11 PM #9
I've got one that sticks. Just tap dat ass. Ain no thing.
Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp
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04-22-2016, 09:30 PM #10
Looks like a normal shifter cable. I reinstalled it in a way that let me use the noodle so I can tighten it when things settle or stretch. Full length housing so didn't think I needed it. He doesn't use it in the install video.
Also, the KS label cover over the mechanism immediately got lost on the first short ride. Do I need that thing?
Ass tapping may work. Maybe oil just needs to soak into the seals and everything needs to get lubed up and broken in? The internals must be very similar to a fork or shock.
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04-23-2016, 02:14 PM #11
Wow, that $0.25 piece of plastic cover is $10. It's awesome how it falls off right away. Replacement bottom plate for a Shimano shifter is like $3 and that even comes with the screw.
Brilliant how the lever clamp doesn't have threading for 1 of those adjustable barrel thingies. I use the angled noodle which means you can't use the ODI lockon compatibility because of the break lever. And it sticks. So these Tawanese want $10 for a shitty cover plate that falls off?!
At least BC.com has the posts for like $100 off. Still not sure it's worth $280, but I guess it is if that's what people are paying.
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04-23-2016, 06:44 PM #12
The noodle does have a barrel adjuster. Works just fine with ODI Rogues and XTs on my bars. Could always cut it shorter to work with whatever you're running. Or pick up an inline one from the LBS for like $5. That being said, I found the extra 15mm required for the ultralight cable to be generous & snugged things up a bit. The cable box cover has a pin on the top and a hole on the bottom for the cable ferrule end to slot into and lock everything into place. That's just user error dude. Or just engineer something better for cheaper, the market is open...
Life is simple. Go Explore.
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04-24-2016, 08:59 AM #13
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04-24-2016, 02:06 PM #14Banned
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Location
- where the rough and fluff live
- Posts
- 4,147
classic stuckie, blaming everyone and everything but his own ineptness for the failures he experiences.
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04-24-2016, 10:18 PM #15
i may have a cap somewhere in the parts bin that I found on the trail a couple years ago. I'll take a look.
a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort
Formerly Rludes025
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04-25-2016, 09:40 AM #16
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04-25-2016, 10:36 AM #17
Good luck with that.
However many are in a shit ton.
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04-25-2016, 09:13 PM #18
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06-16-2016, 09:19 AM #19
Alright, time to bump this. I finally got around to doing this and it worked without replacing anything - new oil and a few tools I didn't have were all I needed. For anyone interested in performing this maintenance I have a few clarifications to Chris's instructions.
Step 5: He's not kidding that this is on there super hard. My vice was at a friend's house and I got impatient and tried to use doubled rubber innertube and vicegrips to get a hold on the inner shaft. That was super dumb of me and I gouged the inner shaft pretty good. I fixed it with nail polish and 1500 grit sandpaper but I'm sure I just drastically shortened the life and next time I'll probably have to replace that inner rod. Don't do what I did. I finally used a vice, doubled innertube and then cardboard over that to protect the rod in the vice. I used channel locks and protected the actuator assembly with more cardboard and SLOWLY worked on getting the threadlock to break. It finally worked. Be careful as hell with this step. It sucks and takes finesse.
Step 8: I didn't remove bushings or slide the collar off. Didn't affect my ability to proceed.
Step 10: Be extremely careful with this step. I undid the threads to the point I thought for sure there wasn't air in the chamber anymore. I kept going with the snap ring pliers with it pointed away from me and at the wall and then it shot out with a loud bang and hit the wall (also oil went everywhere). I recommend putting a towel in a bucket or something similar and pointing the whole thing in there because it seems like it WILL do the above. Wear eye protection, keep your face turned away.
Step 14b: It was a pain in the ass getting the inner rod back in there to just the right height so that I could tighten the cap with the snap ring pliers. You will spill oil. You will need two hands. Keep a lot of gloves and a spray bottle of alcohol handy.
Anyway, it worked and I'm stoked. If anyone around me wants help with it I'm happy to lend a hand. I have the tools now. My fee is beer."The world is a very puzzling place. If you're not willing to be puzzled you just become a replica of someone else's mind." Chomsky
"This system make of us slaves. Without dignity. Without depth. No? With a devil in our pocket. This incredible money in our pocket. This money. This shit. This nothing. This paper who have nothing inside." Jodorowsky
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06-16-2016, 10:32 AM #20
Step5: I used a strap wrench.
Just make sure everything is completely dry (IE clean with some alcohol really well).Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp
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06-17-2016, 08:52 AM #21
Chris and I have found that the strap wrench just doesn't grab the skinny little fucker that is the inner rod. When it's super stuck he likes using the strap from the strap wrench with vice grips over it. Doesn't tear through like the inner tubes do. I usually just clean it really good with alcohol and then wrap a rubber glove around it then grab ahold. But I've done a few while Chris has done a hundred or so.
Soft jaws on a bench vice are money, but it's a lot to buy if you don't already have a full service workbench in your garage/basement.
Glad it worked for you.
Step 14. Yea, that step blows.However many are in a shit ton.
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06-17-2016, 09:22 AM #22Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp
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06-20-2016, 10:35 AM #23
Someone should start a rebuild business given that KS Suspension is so poorly managed that they can't even service their own products. Charge $35-$40 per rebuild (1/2 the price of a new cartridge).
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06-20-2016, 11:36 AM #24
Huh.
I've had two that started sagging. Both rebuilt under warranty. I only did one myself because I didn't want to wait.
They're charging for that now? Outside of a warranty period or just always?
Given the hassle, 40 bucks still isn't too bad IMO.Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp
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06-20-2016, 11:49 AM #25
Yeah, the email I received from them (late last year) said they do not service their products once out of warranty (my cartridge went 26 months after purchase). I've been trying to get a new cartridge for months now (125mm) but QBP is always showing OOS. May try rebuilding it myself.
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