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  1. #2601
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    35,451
    Yes, just got home. As Hamilton said, gonna try and get some PR’s while I have a (very tiny) Altitude advantage!
    Then Moab next week or so with Full Trucker and Company.
    Let’s do some training rides!
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  2. #2602
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    west tetons
    Posts
    2,094
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Yes, just got home. As Hamilton said, gonna try and get some PR’s while I have a (very tiny) Altitude advantage!
    Then Moab next week or so with Full Trucker and Company.
    Let’s do some training rides!
    Sure, when I am back.

    In the meantime, anyone have recommendations for racing 2.0-2.2 tires for a 27.5?

    Sent from my SM-A600A using Tapatalk

  3. #2603
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Carbondale
    Posts
    12,497
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Yes, just got home. As Hamilton said, gonna try and get some PR’s while I have a (very tiny) Altitude advantage!
    Then Moab next week or so with Full Trucker and Company.
    Let’s do some training rides!
    We'll be camping up at lower onion creek 21-24. I'll just be riding Moab Brand Trails with the kids as I'm not to the point rehab wise for any real rides. Should be great out there.
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  4. #2604
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Missoula
    Posts
    2,104
    Oh fun more xc tire chat. You've got the "really fast but barely any grip" tires like the aspen, thunder burt, etc, that are good on really smooth hardpack and non technical stuff, and then the "ok these kind of have some traction" tires. Unless you know what you're getting into I'd stick with the latter. A little more tread up front also doesn't really give up any rolling speed. When I swapped a nobby nic for a racing ralph I couldn't find much reason to go back.

    Vittoria barzo/mezcal has been good and i'd buy it again, and there's the rekon/rekon race, racing ray/ralph, etc. They're all similar enough that it probably doesn't matter and it depends on pricing and availability. I got the vittorias because they're cheaper than maxxis or fancy schwabes (the performance line tubeless schwalbes are pretty heavy- like 775g for a 29x2.25 racing ralph).

    Kenda sabers are the lightest and fastest tires I've used, and I actually liked them. Just have to accept that there's very little traction and be careful around sharp stuff. I give them some credit for a race win a few years ago. They had me thinking about trying aspens, which probably corner better.

    Never really liked the ikon or ardent race though.
    Last edited by jamal; 04-13-2021 at 10:45 AM.

  5. #2605
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Back in Seattle
    Posts
    1,279
    Holy shit inserts make life harder. Put my new Michelin rockr2 and a new tan us tubeless onto my rear wao union wheel this morning. 20 minutes later it is on but I hear air in a spoke hole so I think I ripped the tape. Hopefully it will be easier after stretching on the rim a few hours when I pull it off and retape

  6. #2606
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    15,717
    Quote Originally Posted by carlh View Post
    Holy shit inserts make life harder. Put my new Michelin rockr2 and a new tan us tubeless onto my rear wao union wheel this morning. 20 minutes later it is on but I hear air in a spoke hole so I think I ripped the tape. Hopefully it will be easier after stretching on the rim a few hours when I pull it off and retape
    I feel your pain. So many oppurtubities for things to go sideways. Ive had that happen a few times. Sometimes its just the valve needs tightened. Hopefully thats all.
    Yesterday i put a new tannus liner in my new schalbe big betty super downhill. It took me around 20 minutes as well. I was a little more determined to try a system of installation to make it easier and not use tire levers. One little tiee lever strike can screw the tape. I used 3 rubber ski straps and set the wheel on top of a plastic garbage can. As soon as i got the tire bead on ,directly across from the valve, i put a ski strap on. From there i worked the bead in one direction from the initial ski strap and put another strap(maybe 8-10 spokes from the first strap), then the same the other direction from the initial strap(8-10 spokes). Then back and forth like that working towards the air valve. The last 6 inches the bead is super tight but youll have the straps holding it and won't lose what you've already done. Then i pushed all the installed bead to the center of the rim and that loosens the tension on the bead(less distance to cover). That allowed me to move a ski strap and the tire bead a touch closer to the valve. Dbl checked and pushed the installed bead to the center of the rim again. Stood the wheel on the ground and with 2 hands, at one end of the 5" uninstalled bead , pulled the bead into the rim cavity. After that the remain 3-4" popped in easily. I didnt put soapy water on the inside of the tire bead but that helps. The ski steps and garbage cans are key. I did tape and mount the tire with a tube first and let it sit for a few days aired up before i put the tannus, valve and sealant in. Zero f bombs and thats a rarity for me. Good luck

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  7. #2607
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    35,451
    That’s a good tip with the ski straps. I am guessing you could also use old-school toe straps as well.
    Gonna try this my next go around.
    I have always started seating the bead at the valve, (easier to align logos, not have to lift one bead over the valve later) anyone else have .02 on this?
    Always open to new techniques.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  8. #2608
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    15,717
    Ya i was going to go sctounge up toe straps until i thought of the ski straps. Start opposite the valve for the same reason you push the bead to the center. Beads are so tight every mm counts. The valve makes the bead have to cover a longer distance, if you start at the valve.
    It was just so nice to go step by step and not have the bead come out only to try and work it back in. No 2 steps forward 1 step backwards thing. Finished after every step worked and it held air perfect. Made my day. Had a great ride after i shook and bounced the wheel and let it sit just to be sure. No hitches in the whole process was rewarding. Glad i took the time and organized my method

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  9. #2609
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Back in Seattle
    Posts
    1,279
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ski straps worked great. Pulled the tire retaped and attempt 2 with the straps only took like 5 minutes and it is now holding air.

  10. #2610
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    15,717
    Quote Originally Posted by carlh View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ski straps worked great. Pulled the tire retaped and attempt 2 with the straps only took like 5 minutes and it is now holding air.
    Nice!! Thats great man

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  11. #2611
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Missoula, MT
    Posts
    22,482
    tl;dr version, the e13 tires fuck. Big time. Will type something far more thorough soon.
    No longer stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Just an uneducated guess.

  12. #2612
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    SLCizzy
    Posts
    3,560
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    That’s a good tip with the ski straps. I am guessing you could also use old-school toe straps as well.
    Gonna try this my next go around.
    I have always started seating the bead at the valve, (easier to align logos, not have to lift one bead over the valve later) anyone else have .02 on this?
    Always open to new techniques.
    Yep. I start at the valve for tubeless and most other tubed tires. Except for skinny old road 23-28c that are tight. In that case I align logo/stem on first bead, then finish the second bead at the valve so I can push the tube up and out of the way and not risk pinching it. Works well with all toight tubed rim/tire combos


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  13. #2613
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    5,581
    Quote Originally Posted by joetron View Post
    Yep. I start at the valve for tubeless and most other tubed tires.
    I’ve always started tubes at the valves which generally helped tubes from getting pinched, but I thought that with tubeless you normally ended at the valve so that while you’re working the rest of the bead on it’s able to settle into the well in the center of the rim?

    If you start at the valve, that section of bead can’t fall into the well and you have to fight it when you’re finishing up the last section.

  14. #2614
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Alta Wydaho
    Posts
    437
    Ahhhh. Fresh Rubber Day! Stoked to see how this combo works out...Assegai 2.5/Dissector 2.4

  15. #2615
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Missoula, MT
    Posts
    22,482
    Does anyone want 2 basically new tires? Maxxis DHF 3C Exo 2.5 WT and a 2.3 Aggressor Exo. Make an offer.
    No longer stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Just an uneducated guess.

  16. #2616
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    In a van... down by the river
    Posts
    13,768
    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Does anyone want 2 basically new tires? Maxxis DHF 3C Exo 2.5 WT and a 2.3 Aggressor Exo. Make an offer.
    EXO?!?

    I'll give you about tree fiddy.


  17. #2617
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    The better LA
    Posts
    2,490
    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    I’ve always started tubes at the valves which generally helped tubes from getting pinched, but I thought that with tubeless you normally ended at the valve so that while you’re working the rest of the bead on it’s able to settle into the well in the center of the rim?

    If you start at the valve, that section of bead can’t fall into the well and you have to fight it when you’re finishing up the last section.
    You are correct. First thing we teach a newby bike "tech".
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  18. #2618
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    5,581
    Quote Originally Posted by Roxtar View Post
    You are correct. First thing we teach a newby bike "tech".
    Hey, that’s me! (25 years ago...)

  19. #2619
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    The better LA
    Posts
    2,490
    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    Hey, that’s me! (25 years ago...)
    Unlike many, you actually learned
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  20. #2620
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    5,581
    Quote Originally Posted by Roxtar View Post
    Unlike many, you actually learned
    Didn’t learn that well. After two years of wrenching I was switched to mostly doing sales.

  21. #2621
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Near Perimetr.
    Posts
    3,857
    So, back in the saddle after 2yr hiatus.
    Fucked and out of shape.
    Sub 10kg Orbea from a friend for almost free.
    New fast tyres for XC needed (easy trails, gravel roads, no vert to mention)

    Nobby Nicks or Rocket Rons?

    Go.

    The floggings will continue until morale improves.

  22. #2622
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    8530' MST/200' EST
    Posts
    4,409
    NN is not terribly fast, not terribly slow, I'd go Rockets F/R, if you're riding dirt sidewalks (what i call more mellow, harder packed trails, etc) the Rockets will be fine
    if things are loose/wet/can get loose, I'd do NN front, RR rear.
    "If we can't bring the mountain to the party, let's bring the PARTY to the MOUNTAIN!"

  23. #2623
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
    1,967
    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    I got a good ride on the DD MG Dissector, deliberately riding some steep & loose stuff. I would have been sliding around on a DHR (DD MT), so no real negative in that regard, and they hooked up nicely on berms, and pedaled a bit better. I kind of expected this from using them for a month or two last spring, so the main question mark for me remains how fast they wear out. I'm definitely liking the DD casing better than the EXO I previously used - those things had to be run at least 3psi higher and still were squirmy as hell.
    A few more rides with the DD/MG Dissector. I'm liking it a lot more than the EXO/MT version (with and without Cushcore) I used last year. The stiffer sidewalls are much needed, and even still I'm getting a bit more flex than I'd like at my normal 22 psi. I'm going to experiment bumping it up 1-2 psi and running Tannus. The MG compound on it makes it way, way grippier on dusty hardpack, while still rolling better than a DD/MT DHR. Durability remains TBD, but after 50 miles it's holding up better than with no chunking yet. I have a theory that for my riding MG might actually last longer than MT, since it's more pliable and therefore less prone to tearing.

  24. #2624
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    The better LA
    Posts
    2,490
    Quote Originally Posted by Meathelmet View Post
    So, back in the saddle after 2yr hiatus.
    Fucked and out of shape.
    Sub 10kg Orbea from a friend for almost free.
    New fast tyres for XC needed (easy trails, gravel roads, no vert to mention)

    Nobby Nicks or Rocket Rons?

    Go.
    I've been very impressed with the new NN in the super-ground as a rear tire.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  25. #2625
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    35,451
    I just put on a dh casing Dissector, I’ll give a follow up after this coming weekend in Moab.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

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