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  1. #1401
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    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post

    Thoughts? Am I gonna die with the Aggressor?
    .
    You'll be fine. Aggressor isn't a bad tire as long as you're not expecting it to be something it's not. It rolls decently fast. For a fast rolling tire, it has relatively good braking edges, and it corners predictably. No, it doesn't hook up in corners or while braking like a dhr2, but a dhr2 is also not a fast rolling tire.

    If you're coming off a forekaster, I don't think you'll be disappointed. It's like a forekaster with a less vague cornering feel.

  2. #1402
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    slc
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    Disagree, he's definitely gonna die.


    Honestly though, Aggressor seems like a huge improvement over the Forekaster traction-wise. Forekaster looks like it does nothing well--knobs are too far apart to really roll fast, no proper cornering knobs, etc. It's like they combined the worst aspects of the Ardent, Ikon and Rekon into one tire. Also, being concerned about rolling resistance with regard to long, grinding Wasatch climbs seems misguided. I highly doubt an Ikon gets you up Puke Hill any faster than a DHR2, and I'm damn happy to have the DHR2 on any descent where the grade gets steeper than -10%. Flat fast terrain is where the fast-rolling tires shine, IMHO.
    Last edited by Dantheman; 08-20-2019 at 01:49 PM.

  3. #1403
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    Jan 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Disagree, he's definitely gonna die.

    Honestly though, Aggressor seems like a huge improvement over the Forekaster traction-wise. Forekaster looks like it does nothing well--knobs are too far apart to really roll fast, no proper cornering knobs, etc. It's like they combined the worst aspects of the Ardent, Ikon and Rekon into one tire. Also, being concerned about rolling resistance with regard to long, grinding Wasatch climbs seems misguided. I highly doubt an Ikon gets you up Puke Hill any faster than a DHR2, I'm damn happy to have the DHR2 on any descent where the grade gets steeper than -10%. Flat fast terrain is where the fast-rolling tires shine, IMHO.
    Good to hear there will be death involved, wouldn't have it any other way!

    Honestly, I tend to adapt fairly easily to whatever I'm riding, be it skis or bikes, as long as they're not ridiculously shitty. I know there's always room for improvement with gear but whenever I make a change I tend to notice the difference on day 1 then forget all about it until the next change. I'm sure the Aggressor will work well and when I get on a DHR2 it will work well also. I doubt I'd be able to elaborate on their differences though.
    Point taken on the rolling resistance around here, it shouldn't be a factor when going 2.3 mph on hardpack and there isn't enough flatish flowy stuff to notice the difference. Unless Strava says it does and then I'm buying a fucking road tire for the back!
    Last edited by Boissal; 08-20-2019 at 01:52 PM.

  4. #1404
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
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    8,246
    I've been pretty happy with the Aggressor other than durability. Similar to an Ardent in that regard (durability). Contributed to the first torn sidewall I've had in years, but the trail and the way I was riding (I was running really late) were pretty conducive to sidewall tears, so I'm kinda not faulting the tire for that particular failure. The casing was already well on its way to fucked, though.

    Been running a tube in it for the past few weeks, which was a great reminder that as much as tubeless sucks, tubes suck way, way worse.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  5. #1405
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    Nov 2005
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    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
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    The aggressor isn’t actually terrible, it just doesn’t hook up as well as a dhr2...but it’s all a compromise. I’m going to run mine until it truly assplodes (fixed mine easily with a patch and gorilla tape).
    StokePimpin' ain't easy

  6. #1406
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Donner Summit
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    688
    I went from Forekaster to Aggressor as well and thought it was a huge improvement, especially on Tahoe moondust. Mine are holding up fine though I tend to not kill tires (my last sidewall tear was years ago on a non-EXO Crossmark).

  7. #1407
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
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    12,278
    Ordered a set of Michelin Enduros. Rear Gumi and front magic. Couldn't get myself to put a rocker2 on the front that was skinnier than the rear.

  8. #1408
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Ordered a set of Michelin Enduros. Rear Gumi and front magic. Couldn't get myself to put a rocker2 on the front that was skinnier than the rear.
    Well theyre still good rubber. The difference in width is indistinguishable though and youre missing the true gem.

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  9. #1409
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Ogden
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    510
    was nerding out on the Specialized site over the new Enduro and it looks like they have sorted out their Butcher tires. gone are the 'stair-stepped' cornering knobs and back are the original nobs. maybe even slightly larger than the previous version. spacing through the braking knobs also seems opened up a bit. also looks like a new casing in 'Grid Trail'. presumably to fill the gap between BLCK DMND and the new shitty/weepy Grid. excited.
    now a complete tool

  10. #1410
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    478
    I've been running EXO Assegai and DHR for 2 months in dusty blown out NorCal, and really liking this combo. The only thing I'd really fault them for is the Assegai is pretty heavy (1.15kg on my hanging scale). But it digs down through dust and grabs on hard pack below like crazy, and with the transition knobs, there's no vagueness, ever. That said, I like experimenting with new things, and wondering if there's another matched pair that people would recommend for these conditions.

    I've looked at Michelins several times and have hesitated because they seem slightly off of what I want. I never, ever flat EXOs, so I don't need their sturdier casing. The Wild Enduro Rear looks like the center knobs are kind of short and might lose braking ability. Is this accurate? How would this tire work up front?
    The Wild Enduro Front looks like a brawler of a tire, like the Assegai, but it's no lighter than my current Assegai so I'm not really gaining anything. The Wild Rock'r is again heavy (1.15kg 29) and appears to have a transition zone like the DHF. How does the Wild AM compare to the WER? To me, it looks like the knobs are even smaller/shorter.

    I've got a pair of Magic Marys on my second bike that I really liked in the wet months, but I hear they're not as good for dry. I was planning on giving them a try for myself once I wear out my current DHR.

  11. #1411
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    the gach
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    5,486

    New Season, New Tires, New Thread

    What tire for a front 35mm internal rim? My magic Mary is 2.35 and seems a little too skinny. Iím not really sure I needed the 35mm rim but the wheel is badass and Iím stuck with it. Iíve been loving HR2 and magic Mary as front tires.
    But Ellen kicks ass - if she had a beard it would be much more haggard. -Jer

  12. #1412
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    I've been running EXO Assegai and DHR for 2 months in dusty blown out NorCal, and really liking this combo. The only thing I'd really fault them for is the Assegai is pretty heavy (1.15kg on my hanging scale). But it digs down through dust and grabs on hard pack below like crazy, and with the transition knobs, there's no vagueness, ever. That said, I like experimenting with new things, and wondering if there's another matched pair that people would recommend for these conditions.

    I've looked at Michelins several times and have hesitated because they seem slightly off of what I want. I never, ever flat EXOs, so I don't need their sturdier casing. The Wild Enduro Rear looks like the center knobs are kind of short and might lose braking ability. Is this accurate? How would this tire work up front?
    The Wild Enduro Front looks like a brawler of a tire, like the Assegai, but it's no lighter than my current Assegai so I'm not really gaining anything. The Wild Rock'r is again heavy (1.15kg 29) and appears to have a transition zone like the DHF. How does the Wild AM compare to the WER? To me, it looks like the knobs are even smaller/shorter.

    I've got a pair of Magic Marys on my second bike that I really liked in the wet months, but I hear they're not as good for dry. I was planning on giving them a try for myself once I wear out my current DHR.
    I just got a wild am. Knobs are close to wild enduro rear just the center knobs are more square , rectangle on the am as opposed to rounder on the wer. Theyre both taller knobs than a rock razor or speshs or e13's fast rolling rear. Definitwly more braking. Looks like tge rectangular center knobs on tge am will brake a bit better than the wer. Wild am is lighter than wer. I havent tried the am yet but was thinking wer wuth an am on the front. Sidewall feels more substantial than an exo to the touch and weight is similar. Wild am had a high rating on chain reaction. Thats all ive got. Should be similar width as your mm, guessing itll wear better and offer better puncture protection in similar weight tires. Yes wef stacks up in the similar category as an assguy

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  13. #1413
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chugachjed View Post
    What tire for a front 35mm internal rim? My magic Mary is 2.35 and seems a little too skinny. Iím not really sure I needed the 35mm rim but the wheel is badass and Iím stuck with it. Iíve been loving HR2 and magic Mary as front tires.
    Personal preference thing. Personally i preferred my 35mm inner with my 2.35 rockr2. Michelin widths measure similar to scwalbe. 35mm inner straightens the tire sidewall and makes it more edgy. I like the narrower inner on the rear to allow the sidewall to flex . You always have your body weight on tge rear so its harder to feather the rear end through rock gardens or ruts and staggered bumps. The flex in tge sidewall helps it not get deflected. On the front with a straighter sidewall you can pressure and feather the front end much easier because its not slways weighted. You can be unweighted and then in an instant push the edge knobs and sidewall into a corner/berm/dirt at will and decide how much weight. Harder to do that on the rear so sidewall compliance helps. They do something similar with edge knobs kind of. Rear edge knobs can be a touch softer because the rear wheel is going to drift more often than the front. Softer edge knob will keep it predictable. Front has a touch stiffer edge knob for ripping it in and you dont want it to drift or atleast far less

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  14. #1414
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Chamonix
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    937
    Anyone using tubeless rim strips instead of tape? I tried clear Gorilla Tape on my current DT Swiss EX511/XM481 when I got them two years ago with good success, but didn't have enough left when I retaped the rear at the start of this summer so used regular 25mm Gorilla Tape (too narrow for my 30mm rims). The rear tape was leaking slowly for the past few weeks I think so I went to retape it last night - I'd forgotten how much of a pain in the ass cleaning regular Gorilla residue is and nothing would stick at all after cleaning, even with good scrubbing & cleaning with isopropyl. Ended up putting two layers of stretched electrical tape down then wall-to-wall regular Gorilla and a tube is currently in there to try to stick it well - worked on my previous Spank rims when nothing else would. I'll see how it seals up tomorrow.

    Anyway... rim strips? Good/bad experiences? Specialized had some a while ago, seen some Caffelatex ones, anyone else? If they work they seem like a less-hassle approach and no more cutting/retaping when replacing nipples. And probably similar weight to regular Gorilla Tape. BMX presta tube cut to internal rim width worth a shot?

    I stuck with the Wild Enduro Rear until now so that I could have fresh rubber for a trip this week - very drifty and terrible straightline braking past half life, side knobs all tearing off but it was predictable at least. Back to a Wild Rock'R2 rear and trying an Enduro Front for the first time instead of a Magic Mary.
    Last edited by LC; 08-24-2019 at 04:29 AM.

  15. #1415
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    Dec 2007
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    ^^^ I've used rim strips on some wheels that came with them. No complaints. I've heard generally positive reviews of the specialized ones. I imagine it'd depend somewhat on how perfectly they mesh with whatever rim you're putting them on.

  16. #1416
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    3,993
    Boring AF, but running DHF 2.5 exo up front and DHF 2.3 rear and liking it. Nice combo of grip n roll. If i rode more bike park or shuttles, I might want a DHRII rear for the braking. DHF 2.3 rear can get a little slidey

  17. #1417
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    in the trench
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    Quote Originally Posted by LC View Post
    Anyone using tubeless rim strips instead of tape? I tried clear Gorilla Tape on my current DT Swiss EX511/XM481 when I got them two years ago with good success, but didn't have enough left when I retaped the rear at the start of this summer so used regular 25mm Gorilla Tape (too narrow for my 30mm rims). The rear tape was leaking slowly for the past few weeks I think so I went to retape it last night - I'd forgotten how much of a pain in the ass cleaning regular Gorilla residue is and nothing would stick at all after cleaning, even with good scrubbing & cleaning with isopropyl. Ended up putting two layers of stretched electrical tape down then wall-to-wall regular Gorilla and a tube is currently in there to try to stick it well - worked on my previous Spank rims when nothing else would. I'll see how it seals up tomorrow.

    Anyway... rim strips? Good/bad experiences? Specialized had some a while ago, seen some Caffelatex ones, anyone else? If they work they seem like a less-hassle approach and no more cutting/retaping when replacing nipples. And probably similar weight to regular Gorilla Tape. BMX presta tube cut to internal rim width worth a shot?

    I stuck with the Wild Enduro Rear until now so that I could have fresh rubber for a trip this week - very drifty and terrible straightline braking past half life, side knobs all tearing off but it was predictable at least. Back to a Wild Rock'R2 rear and trying an Enduro Front for the first time instead of a Magic Mary.
    Tried my getto setup with some ewilds and dt swiss 35mm inner and a nukeproof liner. Holy fkn mother of heyzeus. Didnt go so well. Major struggle to get on. Split tube took up to much diameter above the rim. Bead was crazy tight to pop over the rim sidewall, compounded by the bulky relatively stiff np liner. Damaged the rim a bit with the moto lever and shredded the split tube. Sucks, getto seals the best for both spoke holes and burping at thd bead. Should have tried it first with the dt strip that was on there. Supplied/applied dt swiss tape is working on the front so now i have similar tape on the rear. Its e-13 stuff. Mechanics are digging it . Good stick and a bit more flex than the stans stuff helps it stay put when the glue sticks. Michelins seal well but major tight bead.
    Be cool to hear your thoughts on the wef. I havent tried one yet. I agree on the wer. Its not the best for straightline braking. Sounds like my wer is in the same state as yours. Great tire for what its designed for.
    You may even want to try your wef on the back and the rockr2 on the front for comparison. Similar tread to my ewild and the ewild looks like itll roll fairly fast with the ramped center knobs despite being fairly aggressive. Just a thought. Im curious how that combo works either way. Ewild looks sweet

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  18. #1418
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Aspen
    Posts
    7,694
    Any more recommendations for a relatively fast rolling, but grippy front tire for generally loose on hard CO conditions? Is the DHF really the best option?

  19. #1419
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    1,968
    I prefer the Hans Dampf. The newer one. Very predictable cornering and no harsh edge. Super gravity is a great feeling casing and it still rolls fast. It is availability that makes Maxxis the leader. Not all shops stock Schwalbe.

  20. #1420
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    379
    FWIW I abandoned Schwalbe not because of how they rode, but because I had to replace them every 400miles and they were really expensive. In the USA you could get them cheapER than anywhere at tiremaniacs.com but they are a lot less $ in Europe. Between the 400mi tire life and actual tire cost, Maxxis were 1/4-1/3 the cost.

  21. #1421
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    1,968
    Front tires will last more than rear. Rears are disposable no matter what the brand. I've got Schwalbe front tires that are going even after 6 or 7 years of occasional riding.

    I trade off between Dampf and Mary tires but Mary is for race only. Too gnarly for regular riding.

  22. #1422
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    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by funkendrenchman View Post
    Any more recommendations for a relatively fast rolling, but grippy front tire for generally loose on hard CO conditions? Is the DHF really the best option?
    If you like how a DHF rides, then yeah, pretty much. There are tires with similar tread designs that grip better (but roll slower). There are tires with different tread designs that roll faster (but don't grip as well, or at least grip differently). But if you like the feel of a tire without transitional knobs (i.e. drifty at partial lean, but great grip when you commit to the lean), the DHF is a solid bet.

  23. #1423
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Aspen
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    If you like how a DHF rides, then yeah, pretty much. There are tires with similar tread designs that grip better (but roll slower). There are tires with different tread designs that roll faster (but don't grip as well, or at least grip differently). But if you like the feel of a tire without transitional knobs (i.e. drifty at partial lean, but great grip when you commit to the lean), the DHF is a solid bet.
    I'm gonna try a Dissector F and R.

  24. #1424
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    New Mexico
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    1,073

    New Season, New Tires, New Thread

    Anyone have any exp with a Maxxis WT on a thinner rim (like low 20ís mm internal)? Not anything huge, just a 2.4 or maybe 2.5 tops
    Fear, Doubt, Disbelief, you have to let it all go. Free your mind!

  25. #1425
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    livin the dream
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    3,491
    Quote Originally Posted by eskido View Post
    Anyone have any exp with a Maxxis WT on a thinner rim (like low 20ís mm internal)? Not anything huge, just a 2.4 or maybe 2.5 tops
    Yes. I run them on original Light Bicycle rims, not sure exactly how wide they are but definitely mid to low 20s. Tread comes out slightly more rounded. That is negated when you sit on the bike.


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