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  1. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    890
    Sounds like the plan is to rent a floor sander and flatten everything out. Some of the boards are starting to cup just a bit and hold moisture. Then use Sherwin Williams Superdeck. I have a pressure washer I was going to use to clean everything up. Is it best to do that before after sanding? Also will using TSP with a hand sprayer before power washing be of any benefit?
    I'd rather die while I'm living then live while I'm dead

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,885
    If you were trying to save the cost of renting a sander than maybe a pressure washer will get all the old paint off, but the big floor sander with I think it was 40 grit took me down to the fresh wood pretty quick so i can't see needing to pressure wash

    edit; on second thot there might be smoo & shit inbetween the boards which you could blast out with the pressure washer, the deck i did had years of pine needles which I got out with an old ice axe ...perfect tool for the job
    Last edited by XXX-er; 04-21-2016 at 04:32 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    354
    just read the thread and a lot of good info here. having been through this multiple times- my .02:
    judging by the photo- i'm guessing fir decking? also looks like some spacing between boards?

    pressure wash first, don't get the nozzle too close to the boards to avoid "routering" from pressure.
    next reset nail/screw all boards needing help, countersink ALL heads (good kneepads you'll want)
    close all deckside windows- tarp as necessary- you gonna make a mess
    sanding is necessary the way i look at it- floor sander is nice- you-tube is your friend here, ya gotta move fast
    and don't stop moving- 40 (agro) to 80 grit for the initial pass, 100 (ish) will get the grinder marks out, you can do cleanup with a belt or orbital to really make it nice. some guys will do the whole deck with a belt sander.

    clean dust out of cracks with air compressor, pressure washer will just add moisture and swell the grain, you pick.
    now is when you want some hot/dry days. the products mentioned are good- boiled linseed good on cedar/redwood
    super deck probably better on fir. a semi-transparent with some coloration for uv protection seems to last longer.
    linseed oil might be a yearly event, the best products seem to last about 3. apply product with a brush/roller and plan on it setting in the sun for the next 2-3 days if possible. rag off anything left and you're good to go.

    i don't think tsp would have any value with what you're doing. sand and wash really carefully around the bases of your handrail posts. put up some pics of your end results. good luck with it.
    "if you plant ice, you're gonna harvest wind..."

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,064
    Quote Originally Posted by UTpowder View Post
    Sounds like the plan is to rent a floor sander and flatten everything out. Some of the boards are starting to cup just a bit and hold moisture. Then use Sherwin Williams Superdeck. I have a pressure washer I was going to use to clean everything up. Is it best to do that before after sanding? Also will using TSP with a hand sprayer before power washing be of any benefit?
    If your gonna do that much sanding, I wouldn't worry about a cleaner(use a deck brigntener/cleaner(oxalic acid) in the future), but your gonna wanna clean the shit between the boards,as mentioned. Cupping and warpage will happen, but whoever built that shoulda put the crowns of each board going up. As a side note, be super careful with any rags that get stain on them, cuz spontaneous combustion is not your friend!

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    da hood
    Posts
    1,119
    Sikkens with CTOL is the shit. My cedar deck is fully exposed to sun, rain and snow, and one coat lasts two years. First coat needs to go directly on bare wood, then no need to sand ir strip for future applications. $80 or so a gallon and worth every penny.

    I've tried most every other stain for decks, and the ctol is hands down the best product out there.

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    946
    Quote Originally Posted by tenB View Post
    Sikkens with CTOL is the shit. My cedar deck is fully exposed to sun, rain and snow, and one coat lasts two years. First coat needs to go directly on bare wood, then no need to sand ir strip for future applications. $80 or so a gallon and worth every penny.

    I've tried most every other stain for decks, and the ctol is hands down the best product out there.
    X2 for Sikkens. As an architect, this is what I try to specify (it is not cheap, but very high quality)

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,966
    Bump. Getting ready to stain larger deck. The deck is 4 or five years old. Built by previous owner. Do I need to be considering staining any of the pressure treated wood? I was planning on only staining the deck boards, rails, and posts, which are not pressure treated. Focus is on protection. Using sikkens stuff.

    Thanks!

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