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Thread: Paint/sealant for a cabin deck
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04-21-2016, 03:59 PM #26
Sounds like the plan is to rent a floor sander and flatten everything out. Some of the boards are starting to cup just a bit and hold moisture. Then use Sherwin Williams Superdeck. I have a pressure washer I was going to use to clean everything up. Is it best to do that before after sanding? Also will using TSP with a hand sprayer before power washing be of any benefit?
I'd rather die while I'm living then live while I'm dead
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04-21-2016, 04:17 PM #27Registered User
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If you were trying to save the cost of renting a sander than maybe a pressure washer will get all the old paint off, but the big floor sander with I think it was 40 grit took me down to the fresh wood pretty quick so i can't see needing to pressure wash
edit; on second thot there might be smoo & shit inbetween the boards which you could blast out with the pressure washer, the deck i did had years of pine needles which I got out with an old ice axe ...perfect tool for the jobLast edited by XXX-er; 04-21-2016 at 04:32 PM.
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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04-21-2016, 07:36 PM #28
just read the thread and a lot of good info here. having been through this multiple times- my .02:
judging by the photo- i'm guessing fir decking? also looks like some spacing between boards?
pressure wash first, don't get the nozzle too close to the boards to avoid "routering" from pressure.
next reset nail/screw all boards needing help, countersink ALL heads (good kneepads you'll want)
close all deckside windows- tarp as necessary- you gonna make a mess
sanding is necessary the way i look at it- floor sander is nice- you-tube is your friend here, ya gotta move fast
and don't stop moving- 40 (agro) to 80 grit for the initial pass, 100 (ish) will get the grinder marks out, you can do cleanup with a belt or orbital to really make it nice. some guys will do the whole deck with a belt sander.
clean dust out of cracks with air compressor, pressure washer will just add moisture and swell the grain, you pick.
now is when you want some hot/dry days. the products mentioned are good- boiled linseed good on cedar/redwood
super deck probably better on fir. a semi-transparent with some coloration for uv protection seems to last longer.
linseed oil might be a yearly event, the best products seem to last about 3. apply product with a brush/roller and plan on it setting in the sun for the next 2-3 days if possible. rag off anything left and you're good to go.
i don't think tsp would have any value with what you're doing. sand and wash really carefully around the bases of your handrail posts. put up some pics of your end results. good luck with it."if you plant ice, you're gonna harvest wind..."
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04-22-2016, 04:54 AM #29
If your gonna do that much sanding, I wouldn't worry about a cleaner(use a deck brigntener/cleaner(oxalic acid) in the future), but your gonna wanna clean the shit between the boards,as mentioned. Cupping and warpage will happen, but whoever built that shoulda put the crowns of each board going up. As a side note, be super careful with any rags that get stain on them, cuz spontaneous combustion is not your friend!
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04-23-2016, 09:32 PM #30Registered User
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Sikkens with CTOL is the shit. My cedar deck is fully exposed to sun, rain and snow, and one coat lasts two years. First coat needs to go directly on bare wood, then no need to sand ir strip for future applications. $80 or so a gallon and worth every penny.
I've tried most every other stain for decks, and the ctol is hands down the best product out there.
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04-28-2016, 02:58 PM #31Registered User
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10-07-2017, 12:01 PM #32
Bump. Getting ready to stain larger deck. The deck is 4 or five years old. Built by previous owner. Do I need to be considering staining any of the pressure treated wood? I was planning on only staining the deck boards, rails, and posts, which are not pressure treated. Focus is on protection. Using sikkens stuff.
Thanks!
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