Courmayer questions

[Benny Profane]

Is it worth it?

Good hotel?

Is it easy to get to Chamonix by public transit?

[hutash]

I didn't get to ski due to a jacked knee, but is is a cool town and the rest of Gordy Camp had fun there. The Helborner (sp?) is the Italian version of theMidi. Best espresso or cappuccino at its base, right across from the loading dock.

[old goat]

There is a bus between Courmayeur and Chamonix. I didn't take it; my impression was that reservations are necessary and in somewhat short supply at popular times--at least for folks staying in Chamonix. The Courmayeur ski area itself has a lot of mundane skiing at the lower elevations. There is some excellent off piste skiing from the Crest Youla and Cresta d' Arp. I think Arp and maybe Youla lifts require a guide--but I am not at all sure about that. And of course from the top of the tram to Heilbrunner Point you can ski the Vallee Blanche to Cham or the Toule Glacier (south facing) back down to Courmayeur. We've stayed at the Hotel La Grange in Entreves, just up the valley from Courmayeur--very comfortable and friendly, but we were there in the fall off season. (When we skied there we skied with guides who drove us from Chamonix.) The easiest way to get to Courmayeur would be Geneva to Chamonix by shuttle and then the bus to Courmayeur. If I recall correctly from Milan it's two trains and a bus--we drove and it took hours. The food in the places we ate at in Entreves was excellent and after eating on the hill in Courmayeur you will never eat at a US ski area cafeteria again. The Italian food is a lot better than the Savoyard food in Cham in my opinion (and the Chinese restaurant we ate at in Cham may be the worst in the western world). Consider my info to be semi-reliable at best--it's been a while.

[yellofin]

I didn't get to ski due to a jacked knee, but is is a cool town and the rest of Gordy Camp had fun there. The Helborner (sp?) is the Italian version of theMidi. Best espresso or cappuccino at its base, right across from the loading dock.

Great expresso and a great tram
Way over bunny's level he will hate it as he has no soul

[Scottish_Skier]

Is it worth it?

YES!
It is small town but quieter than Chamonix (the joke being it is the best powder stash on Chamonix lift pass).
Daily weather and snow conditions can be very different on south side of alps - for better or worse depending where snow / weather systems have come from. The views of that side of Mont Blanc are stunning and there is a stack of good off piste skiing from the main ski area and the new Hellbroner lift. One of the best "medium size" alpine ski areas.

Good hotel?

No idea - but I am sure there are many Hotels that will be cheaper than Chamonix.

Is it easy to get to Chamonix by public transit?

It wont kill you - a bus runs via Mt Blanc tunnel.
Most people visit Courmayeur in day trips - but there is enough skiing for a week.

[Arno]

There are a good range of hotels from quite bling down to clean/comfortable and good value. I found somewhere on one of the aggregator sites when I went there a few years ago
No guide needed for Youla or Arp but they access properly off piste terrain so keep your wits about you
Plenty of nice day trips accessible from there aside from CHX if you have a car

[freak]

Best espresso or cappuccino at its base, right across from the loading dock.

Great expresso and a great tram

the old tram is closed since they built a giant new one so you want be able to hang out at the bar anymore (different place). on the other hand you want have to wait anymore on most days, so no need...

Other than that, the resort can be nice, but can also be very crowded...

freak~[&]

[old goat]

No guide needed for Youla or Arp but they access properly off piste terrain so keep your wits about you

I do recall the the Arp lift had a beacon check station where you loaded and you couldn't load without a beacon. The run we skied with the guide--"inbounds''--had 2 parallel couloirs. One had fresh pow, the other had slid and was either frozen avy rubble or slid off icy bumps. We skied the rubble and icy bumps. No glacier though so no crevasse gear needed.

I second what Scotty said--the view of the massive south side of MB is incredible. Roughly 12,000 foot vertical face from the Val Veny. The little cliff band near the top of the face is 2000 foot vertical (Freney face--if you want to read a particular harrowing mountaineering story read Bonatti's account of his first attempt on the central pillar--snow storm, lightening, 50+ rappels, one climber suffering from hypothermia trying to kill Bonatti, many deaths, etc etc. Our guide Pierre Labbre and his partners set the speed record for a winter ascent of the Super Integral route on the south face--6 days in good weather including a new route on the Freney face. He skis pretty well too.)

[hutash]

the old tram is closed since they built a giant new one so you want be able to hang out at the bar anymore (different place). on the other hand you want have to wait anymore on most days, so no need...

Other than that, the resort can be nice, but can also be very crowded...

freak~[&]

As I recall the bottom tram was pretty modern, but the top section was ancient and small. Did they redo the whole thing or just the top section? I was there just 3-4 years ago. If they did, I hope the old lady moved with it she was amazing.

[LegoSkier]

Apres ski go down valley a bit to this place http://termedipre.it/en/ Soak in a reclining bubble rack while watching the sun set over Mont Blanc.

[Greydon Clark]

The Courmayeur ski area itself has a lot of mundane skiing at the lower elevations. There is some excellent off piste skiing from the Crest Youla and Cresta d' Arp. I think Arp and maybe Youla lifts require a guide--but I am not at all sure about that.

I agree with this statement. I had a guide while skiing at Courmayeur, while not necessary if you’re experienced, as a first time visor I found it helpful. He did call guy who owned a snowmobile to tow us back to the lifts and all we had to do was lunch at his restaurant.

Lots of stuff to explore in the valley, I did a day at la Thuile which is a huge ski area with great views and mostly moderate terrain.

[PNWbrit]

Is it worth it?

Good hotel?

Is it easy to get to Chamonix by public transit?

Yes.

We VRBO apartments

Yes....

[PNWbrit]

I didn't get to ski due to a jacked knee, but is is a cool town and the rest of Gordy Camp had fun there. The Helborner (sp?) is the Italian version of theMidi. Best espresso or cappuccino at its base, right across from the loading dock.

Louisa's place.... I fear that it will not last long with the new tram down valley...

[aps241]

I spent a couple of days at Courmayer about a week ago. I was impressed at how some of the off piste terrain easily accessible with a 30 minute skin up via the highest lift wasn't tracked out even several days after the last snowfall. I stayed at Hotel Dolonne and can recommend it as a reasonably priced (~75 euro/night) option. The food on the slope at Courmayer rivals Zermatt for the best I've enjoyed, but is a fraction of the price.

[Benny Profane]

Grazi.

[Metric22]

I went last year on a day trip from Chamonix during a total foggy whiteout because it was bluebird on the Italian side, which is apparently common. I just cruised around off of Youla because I was by myself, but would definitely hire a guide next time because the terrain off of the top of Youla/Arp and the Mont Blanc face looked amazing.

It's a cool town with a good vibe. Eat at La Chaumiere near the top of the first tram - skiing in there for lunch was a highlight.

[Hicks]

Do a search for old 2006 TRs from Skier666 and Roo about that area, tons of pics in there.

[Island Bay]

Resurrecting an old thread.

Ms Island Bay and I will be in Valle d'Aosta for two weeks 21 March onwards. We have a lot of good ideas, but would like some advice on Helbronner/Toula. As switched on backcountry skiers with the proper gear, would we need a guide to ski that face? Advice from those with local knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

[PNWbrit]

Resurrecting an old thread.

Ms Island Bay and I will be in Valle d'Aosta for two weeks 21 March onwards. We have a lot of good ideas, but would like some advice on Helbronner/Toula. As switched on backcountry skiers with the proper gear, would we need a guide to ski that face? Advice from those with local knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

It's pretty serious terrain...

Need?

Probably not.

Be better experience with.. probably.

The ride up might be enough to convince you.

[Island Bay]

Thanks, bud.

Happy with the 'seriousness', just keen to know about route finding and crevasse issues.

[PNWbrit]

just keen to know about route finding and crevasse issues.

Yes there is.

That's what I meant by serious..

[Island Bay]

Grazie mille.

[Foggy_Goggles]

Yeah, that is about an impossible questions to answer. It depends on a lot of things. Obviously, the crevasse situation varies year to year even with in the year. Up to date local info would be key here. Obviously, route finding is key. This will depend on the weather, visibility, snow conditions and it you can follow tracks. On the other side, it is probably equivalent to Envers du Plan or something. There are a few areas exposed to rock fall and seracs and there were some must make snow bridges when I was there. Obviously, glacial travel and crevasse rescue skills are needed. Many people rap the end of the steel staircase. So, people ski it unguided all the time. Whether that is suggested for you and the misses I have no idea.

[Ottime]

I didn't get to ski due to a jacked knee, but is is a cool town and the rest of Gordy Camp had fun there. The Helborner (sp?) is the Italian version of theMidi. Best espresso or cappuccino at its base, right across from the loading dock.

You can't actually get bad espresso in Italy. Or for more than one Euro. It is regulated.

[hutash]

True, you won't get a bad one, but some are better then others. Louisa made a damn good cup. It's a shame she is no longer making it.