Air compressor for the home mechanic.

[exsparky]

I confused it with this one: https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com...or/p13940.html

I like the numbers on that one. How well does the 10 cfm hold up to sandblasting?

[GeezerSteve]

How well does the 10 cfm hold up to sandblasting?

It'd be fine for my little sandblaster, but likely not enough for a big industrial SB. My biggest demand tool is my Dynafile 14000, which gets a ton of use for framebuilding. My current compressor, an old single stage 30 gallon Devilbiss set at 120PSI barely keeps up with it.

[MontuckyFried]

I've had this Porter Cable one for a couple years now, it's been fine for use about equal to yours, easy to use, plenty of pressure, and it's certainly cheap enough, I'd recommend it: http://amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-C2002...air+compressor

This is the same one I've been rocking for probably around 6 years now. It's gotten a LOT of use and has gotten me through multiple major remodels. That all said, if OP's working on cars, then he'll want something with WAY higher tank volume. It runs out of juice way too quickly. Especially when using an air blower attachment. Totally fine for as slow as I work on baseboards, flooring, or framing, but I'm getting a bigger one for my garage someday. Thing's been plenty reliable and easy to use, though.

[exsparky]

I found an electric version of the dynafile. I was given a 1.125" and bought the 3/8 shortly there after.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've had it 2 weeks and love it. The only downside is massive aluminum dust everywhere and it sucks to clean up.

[GeezerSteve]

I found an electric version of the dynafile.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nice tool. You'll use that more than you can imagine. Dynafile 14000 is a bit different, can be set up with 2+ inch length of pretty deep slack (which I use 95%), great for finishing round tube brazed fillets and welds, polishing work spinning in a lathe chuck, deburring, etc., spins at 20,000 RPM. Works with a variety of abrasive and Scotchbrite belts. Very popular with framebuilders. I got mine in 1994 and it's still going strong.

[exsparky]

The makita isn't as nice as that one by any means but I love that thing already.

I want a pheer knife grinder too. The one I have is pretty weak but I use it constantly too.

[GeezerSteve]

That's a nice looking knife grinder. I got this one a few years ago, not fancy, not the best, although affordable, bomber and popular. I see lots of them in the home shops of Forged in Fire contestants. I use nearly every day I'm in the shop. One of these days I'll fab a new platen and I might rig it up for low RPM. Some guys mod them by putting in a second idler pulley.

[AdironRider]

That's a nice looking knife grinder. I got this one a few years ago, not fancy, not the best, although affordable, bomber and popular. I see lots of them in the home shops of Forged in Fire contestants. I use nearly every day I'm in the shop. One of these days I'll fab a new platen and I might rig it up for low RPM. Some guys mod them by putting in a second idler pulley.

Those Grizzly ones are pretty sweet, you don't need a whole lot more to make a knife than that.

I just added this one to my shop. I don't know if I've ever loved a tool more than this. Made about 100 knives with it so far and it is by far the most well built tool I've ever used.

https://beaumontmetalworks.com/product/3-speed-kmg-10/

[GeezerSteve]

Do you have a forge?

Those KMG grinders are really nice. I've made only a few knives, plan to make some more before the summer. If I were really into it, I'd get a KMG grinder.

[exsparky]

The grizz takes less counter space.
That last one is a tank too, do you wish you have a vfd for variable speed or is 3 enough?

I really want a vfd... I think.

[GeezerSteve]

VFD would be nice, although lots of knife makers do all their profiling and grinding at one speed. Also, if you get a VFD you should add a fan to prevent the motor from frying. I have an inverter/3-phase motor w/fan and two sets of step pulley gearing on my bandsaw because I use it to cut a wide variety of materials. My mill and lathe are old tech step pulleys/back gear and work fine. I have pondered setting up my Grizzly knife grinder to alternatively operate at very low RPM by using a separate motor to drive the buffer side of the motor shaft. It'd be an easy mod.

[AdironRider]

I seem to do everything at the pretty much the same speed (1800), so I don't find the VFD critical. Sure would be nice to just turn a dial though as adjusting the speeds requires some wrenches and at least a couple minutes, but again, I probably use a different speed than 1800 maybe once a week at most.

This is my next purchase and I'll be happy as a clam. http://www.traviswuertz.com/?product...chment-for-kmg

OS- I've got a couple, including my first coal one built out of a Weber grill and an old accordian. Gas is the way to go however and it is pretty much what I use exclusively. I've got a mini one that is pretty sweet, but this is the main one. http://www.majesticforge.com/3-Burne...er-Deluxe.html

[GeezerSteve]

That grinding attachment = mass production. You could get a nice precise flat grind with that. Do you do any Scandi grinds?

I've looked at that Majestic forge, might get one. Do you use it to heat treat? I've been doing differential heat treats with a torch, keeping the spine soft and strong.

[AdironRider]

I do a semi production line of kitchen knives that the surface attachment would be tits for. Currently doing everything free hand with the platen attachment. Do some scandi grinds on custom stuff if the customer prefers, but otherwise mostly flats. Hollow grinds suck IMO. I'm debating combining that surface grinding attachment with this bad boy and cut my grinding time in half for the kitchen stuff. http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/js260.htm

I use an evenheat oven primarily for HT. https://www.soulceramics.com/collect...eat-oven-kf-18

I sprung for the TAP controller with wifi so I can start up a batch a couple hours before I get home from real job, so sweet. You still need to dial in the temps for what you are looking for, but once you have it dialed for a given steel it gives you so much more consistency. I can HT in a forge and do so when I play around with Damascus, but mostly to just play around with and keep the skills up. I do find the knife oven isn't the best for low temperature tempers (sub 450 or so) as the temp with fluctuate 25 degrees or so. I use 440c tempered to about 60 rockwell for my kitchen blades primarily and found this little dodad and a toaster oven work great. Holds temps steady +/- .5 degrees. Originally got it for stabilizing handles but works great for tempering as well. https://www.turntex.com/product/vacu...-tamer2-detail

For differential HT I typically slab a whole bunch of fireplace cement on the spine instead of using a torch. Seems to work out pretty well for me.

[GeezerSteve]

Yeah, I have no interest in hollow grinds. My DIY knife that gets the most use has a convex grind. It requires more frequent sharpening but it's a damn tough chopper.

Nice heat treat oven.

What kind of steel?

We should start a knifemaking thread

[AdironRider]

For kitchen stuff I think 440c is about as good as it gets. There are a couple higher grades of CPM steels like S35VN but they have a lower chromium content and usually end up with pits and a grip of water spots if you aren't careful despite their stainless rating.

I'm a big fan of L6 for high carbon only blades. I've played around with the 8670m from Admiral and haven't been able to notice a difference between the two, other than its way cheaper for the 8670m.

I use 1095 and 15n20 when making Damascus steel.

We should start a knifemaking thread, so much fun.

To stay on topic I bought this one to run my plasma cutter, a Kobalt 60 gallon. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-60-G...SAAEgJzWvD_BwE

Has had no trouble keeping up with my air tools of any type. I do get a lot of moisture without filters so make sure you get a decent air pressure regulator and moisture filter in line. I actually use two, plus a Miller one right before the plasma cutter connection.

[3j3j3j]

I don't have a ton of knowledge to contribute, but definitely take into consideration the loudness of the compressor. I have a 30 call oil free Craftsman from the early 2000s and it's so loud and runs for so long that I always dread having to use it. If it's running I can hear it a block away. It's miserable working next to it.