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  1. #301
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
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    1,230
    Quote Originally Posted by swissiphic View Post
    What did you do the dial in the boot/binding ramp angle after the grinding the sole of toe area mod? Or was the resulting increase in toe drop advantageous?
    No grinding was done. My boot guy and I decided it wouldn't help.

    The pictures are showing the difference between the boot sitting flat on the ground compared when it's rotated so the AFD plate on the replaceable sole is flat on the ground.

    The AFD plate is too thin where you would need to grind it down to get the boots to fit into an Alpine binding. If Lange had made the AFD plate full thickness, we would simply be able to grind the rocker sole down to fit into an alpine binding. The thought of just grinding down the AFD plate and rocker sole was considered, but I think the AFD plate would be so thin that a rock would punch through it.

    I am considering filling the voids with epoxy or JB Weld, then grinding (or taking the sole to a planer) the sole to where when the boot sits flat on the ground, or in an alpine binding, it fits correctly with out deforming the toe piece.

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  2. #302
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
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    2,146
    Quote Originally Posted by skibrd View Post
    No grinding was done. My boot guy and I decided it wouldn't help.

    The pictures are showing the difference between the boot sitting flat on the ground compared when it's rotated so the AFD plate on the replaceable sole is flat on the ground.

    The AFD plate is too thin where you would need to grind it down to get the boots to fit into an Alpine binding. If Lange had made the AFD plate full thickness, we would simply be able to grind the rocker sole down to fit into an alpine binding. The thought of just grinding down the AFD plate and rocker sole was considered, but I think the AFD plate would be so thin that a rock would punch through it.

    I am considering filling the voids with epoxy or JB Weld, then grinding (or taking the sole to a planer) the sole to where when the boot sits flat on the ground, or in an alpine binding, it fits correctly with out deforming the toe piece.
    Yeah, that was my one concern - enough available material to grind it down. Thanks for documenting this. It sounds as if rolling your own, or just jamming it in are the two options.

    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    . . . at Thom's regular hourly rate, he'd be ahead if he'd done this a few weeks ago . . .
    Of course, all of the endless, non-productive banter would have then been sacrificed to the cause of actually getting this done

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  3. #303
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
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    1,230
    Quote Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un View Post
    Yeah, that was my one concern - enough available material to grind it down. Thanks for documenting this. It sounds as if rolling your own, or just jamming it in are the two options.
    ... Thom
    The just jamming it in there was looked at, and it forces the toe of be Pivot binding down. My boo guy highly advised against this because it will wear the pedestal down and the toe piece won't return to its base position over time.

    I'll make a decision this week some time. If/when you see a bunch of crap for sale later this week, you'll know I made a decision.

  4. #304
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    405
    I put about 75-100 days on the '15 freetours and thought they were a good work boot, just a little soft in warm weather.
    After about 5 days on this years, it definitely feels like a better boot all around. The walk mode feels like it has more range of motion, the boot feels stiffer (although maybe that's because my old ones are worn out) , and the liner is much nicer. Haven't used the tech inserts on it yet but the quality seems great and I'm excited to get out on them more. Still won't replace my maestrales for touring though.

    If anybody wants extra new alpine blocks for the '16s, just pay shipping and you can have mine.
    Last edited by camlax; 12-07-2017 at 09:24 PM.

  5. #305
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Hermosa Beach
    Posts
    95
    Wait - so is there actually a difference between the '16-17 and '17-18' Freetours other than the option for an alpine sole block on the '17-18?
    Can anyone elaborate?

  6. #306
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    405
    Quote Originally Posted by DKNY2LA View Post
    Wait - so is there actually a difference between the '16-17 and '17-18' Freetours other than the option for an alpine sole block on the '17-18?
    Can anyone elaborate?
    apologies i meant 15-16

  7. #307
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    2,146
    This has been nagging at me - especially because I want to demo some skis. I started to play with fabricating alpine sole blocks.

    This first step involves fitting a piece of UHMWPE into the sole. For this, I chose some .060" stock (nominal 1/16" thick) I picked up in the scrap heap. It's very close to perfect for filling in the rebate in the boot sole.

    Part-2 will involve using thicker stock to build the main part of the sole block. For this, I'll need to dumpster dive at the plastic shop's scrap bin for either .250" or .375" material. This post is long enough to serve as part-1.

    Step-1 -making a crude template. Note that the half-moon shaped holes are approximately 3/8" diameter. I measured the spacing at 1.422".





    Step-2 - drill the two 3/8" diameter holes for both parts:





    Step-3 - trace the rough outline of the template over one of the work pieces (note - I trimmed and fit the first part and then used that as a template in place of the paper template for the second one):





    Step-4 - use a belt sander to trim to size. This is the tedious part - trim-check, trim-check, ad nauseum.





    Step-5 - trace the shape of the first part over that of the second one and go back to the belt sander to trim to size:






    Step-6- mark the two front screw holes. I took advantage of a bright light to locate them, and I double-checked by using a caliper. I was still a slight bit off and had to "oval-ize" the holes. I may re-fabricate these parts again (not because it's necessary ... more out of OCD tendencies).






    Step-7 - check the fit and fine tune as necessary. Note - without pressure from the main sole block, the plastic wants to pop up a bit, so it appears to not fit in this photo.

    Last edited by galibier_numero_un; 12-26-2017 at 05:58 PM.
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  8. #308
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Squaw valley
    Posts
    1,976
    The exposed screws might pick up snow when you hike.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using TGR Forums mobile app

  9. #309
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    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
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    Quote Originally Posted by rod9301 View Post
    The exposed screws might pick up snow when you hike.
    The last photo was just a test to check the screw hole location and the fit of this part within the sole's rebate.

    In part-2 (hopefully), the outer block will clamp on top of that (using all four holes), and the screws will be counterbored into the outer block. We'll see how that goes ...

    [Edit - 12/31/2017] Well, I fabricated the main sole block portion but got foiled by the planing operation. The UHMW is pretty difficult to remove material from on a belt sander. It's too damn cold to mess with getting the router table out in the driveway to experiment with planing it down. I'm also guessing that the high speed (25,000 rpm) would melt the plastic as well.

    Considering my motivation for this project was to have a 5355 compatible sole for ski demos, the best strategy (for me) would be to pick up some beater shells off of gear swap. This is getting too labor intensive even for me

    OTOH, I've been wanting to pick up this planer for awhile: http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...SABEgJ9bPD_BwE


    ... Thom
    Last edited by galibier_numero_un; 01-01-2018 at 10:53 AM.
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  10. #310
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Squamish, BC
    Posts
    613
    hey - I have the XT ft's that came with both the WTR and alpine sole blocks (that makes them the 17/18, right?) bought at the start of this season.

    I read that there is apparently a gripwalk sole already available to buy for the 17/18, as lange is going all gripwalk (and 'maybe' using same hole pattern). Anyone know where I could get it? local shop didn't know.

  11. #311
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    143
    Got fitted for some 17/18 Freetours and feel great after 4 days of lifts so far...but man do my feet get cold.

    Swap with Intuitions and solve the problem?

  12. #312
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    3,049
    Quote Originally Posted by teletele View Post
    Got fitted for some 17/18 Freetours and feel great after 4 days of lifts so far...but man do my feet get cold.

    Swap with Intuitions and solve the problem?
    Have you had Lange boots before?

    Just asking because they're generally pretty cold. Intuitions do help.

  13. #313
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
    Posts
    20,646
    Three days on mine, and must say I like them and they ski in the resort well. Haven't toured in them yet. No issues with cold feet even on single digit days, which are pretty rare here in CA (Mammoth/Tahoe.)

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  14. #314
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    143
    Quote Originally Posted by reckless toboggan View Post
    Have you had Lange boots before?

    Just asking because they're generally pretty cold. Intuitions do help.
    Had Langes way back in high school, so 25 years ago. Guess its time to look for some Intuitions...

  15. #315
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Squaw valley
    Posts
    1,976
    I have the same boots, and with the factory liners, I skied Shasta in 0 deg F with 40 mph winds, no problems.

    Maybe there was something else, hungry, tired, cold upper body. These conditions could contribute to cold feet

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using TGR Forums mobile app

  16. #316
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    3,049
    Here's a question I've had for a while...

    Has anyone thought of, or tried, just straight up grinding about 2mm off the bottom of the soles of the Freetours with the WTR soles (sole blocks grinded down on the side that touches the ski/dirt/snow) so that they'll fit in regular alpine binders?

  17. #317
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Squamish, BC
    Posts
    613
    Quote Originally Posted by reckless toboggan View Post
    Here's a question I've had for a while...

    Has anyone thought of, or tried, just straight up grinding about 2mm off the bottom of the soles of the Freetours with the WTR soles (sole blocks grinded down on the side that touches the ski/dirt/snow) so that they'll fit in regular alpine binders?
    scroll up

  18. #318
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    3,049
    Quote Originally Posted by Judo Chop! View Post
    scroll up
    Was just doing that. Didn't find it. Maybe I'm illiterate...

    I'm not talking fabricating a new block. I'm talking about just grinding down the existing stock WTF sole block.

  19. #319
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    327
    It seems like none of the shops that are semi-convenient to me have XT130 Freetours in stock, so I was hoping someone could help me out with a sizing question:

    I have been skiing a 26.5 RX130 inbounds for three years or so and love the boots. The fit is great (I just needed a punch on one of the inside ankles I believe) and I love the way they ski.

    I need to replace my first-gen Maestrale RSs soon. I never loved the way they fit or skied (heel retention is fine but it's very easy to squash my instep by overtightening the ankle strap, and unless I have the edges engaged my skis are prone to compassing). I don't often tour more than 4000-5000' per day, and those days feel fine...good enough that I'm interested in carrying more weight up in exchange for better skiing down.

    Is it a fairly safe bet that a 26.5 XT 130 Freetour will fit me?

  20. #320
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Der Town
    Posts
    5,491
    Quote Originally Posted by jorion View Post
    It seems like none of the shops that are semi-convenient to me have XT130 Freetours in stock, so I was hoping someone could help me out with a sizing question:

    I have been skiing a 26.5 RX130 inbounds for three years or so and love the boots. The fit is great (I just needed a punch on one of the inside ankles I believe) and I love the way they ski.

    I need to replace my first-gen Maestrale RSs soon. I never loved the way they fit or skied (heel retention is fine but it's very easy to squash my instep by overtightening the ankle strap, and unless I have the edges engaged my skis are prone to compassing). I don't often tour more than 4000-5000' per day, and those days feel fine...good enough that I'm interested in carrying more weight up in exchange for better skiing down.

    Is it a fairly safe bet that a 26.5 XT 130 Freetour will fit me?
    Yes, if length isn't an issue I'd say you're safe with the same size. My 27 xt130 ft felt slightly higher volume than my rx130 lv

  21. #321
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Squaw valley
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    Yes

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using TGR Forums mobile app

  22. #322
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    327
    Thanks guys. Rod, you seem to get out a lot. Are you using these as your only touring boot? Do you ever regret the weight or walk mode drawbacks?

  23. #323
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Squaw valley
    Posts
    1,976
    Yes, my only touring boot. No regrets at all.
    The only thing I wish for is a bit more forward range when I boot up on rocky terrain. But this is really minor.

    I also figured out how to put them on when it's really cold, in a tent, and the boots are frozen.

    Two half liter bottles of hot water in the shells for 10 minutes.
    Problem solved.


    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using TGR Forums mobile app

  24. #324
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Den/Baltimore
    Posts
    4,632
    Quote Originally Posted by jorion View Post
    Thanks guys. Rod, you seem to get out a lot. Are you using these as your only touring boot? Do you ever regret the weight or walk mode drawbacks?
    kevino skis these a ton as well -- the main walk mode drawback he's mentioned to me (and posted about on here) is getting stuck in walk mode when digging pits or bootpacking in deep snow. He now puts them into ski mode before postholing, which solves the issue (but then you're limited in ROM).
    "Alpine rock and steep, deep powder are what I seek, and I will always find solace there." - Bean Bowers

    www.instagram.com/auvgeek/

  25. #325
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    Jan 2009
    Location
    Squaw valley
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    Quote Originally Posted by auvgeek View Post
    kevino skis these a ton as well -- the main walk mode drawback he's mentioned to me (and posted about on here) is getting stuck in walk mode when digging pits or bootpacking in deep snow. He now puts them into ski mode before postholing, which solves the issue (but then you're limited in ROM).
    I was really worried about this.

    Lots of silicone spray. After about 25 days in them somehow the mechanism goes into walk or ski much easier.

    I used to have to have the boots in the skis, locked down, to get into ski or walk mode, to get enough leverage.
    Lately, I can do it just pressing hard on the snow.
    I even made this summer some light short gaiters to cover the mechanism when booting up a couloir in powder.
    Unfortunately, didn't have enough snow this winter to test them.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using TGR Forums mobile app

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